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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 09-27-2009, 04:12 PM
lucyred62 lucyred62 is offline
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help deciding on e30 convertible

HI, I went to look at a 1987 e30 vert. It is red, with black top. Drove it, and it rides great. The only problems were as follows(that I could tell)
1. Top is in good shape, but rear window is very foggy and yellow. Very difficulty to see out of. Question- Can just the window be replaced, or does the entire the rag top need to be replaced?
2. The drivers side window does not work. All other windows work. Owner said the car has been sitting for a month, and claims the window was working. He feels it is the switch. Qestion-How can you tell what the problem is, and if it is the button, where can I purchase one, and is there instructions on how to do?
3. Ding on drivers side door. I think an auto body shop should be able to fix. Paint looks great.
4. The break lining light was on intermittently? Not sure what this is? Again, owner said he thinks it is the sensors in the brakes? Said the part is not expensive for the sensor, but labor is more involved? Question? Anyone know what that would cost to fix?
5. Front seats worn, but not torn.
6. Ran carfax, and there was a question of odometer roll back. Is this something to be worried about. Owner is the second owner, and since he has had it the odometer reading on carfax seems right. It was the previous owner. The odometer readings were good until the last one went from 89,000 one year to 38,000. Question: Is this something to be worried about?

wanted 3500, and got him down to 3200? Do you feel I am paying too much, or do you think it is a fair price?
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 09-27-2009, 05:07 PM
_Ethrty-Andy_'s Avatar
_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucyred62 View Post
HI, I went to look at a 1987 e30 vert. It is red, with black top. Drove it, and it rides great. The only problems were as follows(that I could tell)
1. Top is in good shape, but rear window is very foggy and yellow. Very difficulty to see out of. Question- Can just the window be replaced, or does the entire the rag top need to be replaced?
2. The drivers side window does not work. All other windows work. Owner said the car has been sitting for a month, and claims the window was working. He feels it is the switch. Qestion-How can you tell what the problem is, and if it is the button, where can I purchase one, and is there instructions on how to do?
3. Ding on drivers side door. I think an auto body shop should be able to fix. Paint looks great.
4. The break lining light was on intermittently? Not sure what this is? Again, owner said he thinks it is the sensors in the brakes? Said the part is not expensive for the sensor, but labor is more involved? Question? Anyone know what that would cost to fix?
5. Front seats worn, but not torn.
6. Ran carfax, and there was a question of odometer roll back. Is this something to be worried about. Owner is the second owner, and since he has had it the odometer reading on carfax seems right. It was the previous owner. The odometer readings were good until the last one went from 89,000 one year to 38,000. Question: Is this something to be worried about?

wanted 3500, and got him down to 3200? Do you feel I am paying too much, or do you think it is a fair price?
Thanks
1/ cant help you
2/ you can get one from the yard cheap as, free if you have pockets i dont condone that though easy as to take out, just slip a knife or flat blade screw driver under the switch and pry it out.
3/ looks like you gave this sorted
4/ depends if you can do the labour yourself. i did, and jsut shorted the sensor wires together so it never comes on. those sorts of sensors are for people that dont do maintenence on thier cars
5/ can be found pretty cheap, once again from a yard, or otherwise there are a few people on here who can help you
6/ whats the milage now? i would add 30,000 odd onto that as a worst case senario.. are you happy with these kilmeters? M20s are usually good for about 250,000 miles so chances are you should still be okay.
7/ depends on milage and condition. pictures are you best friend if you want us to help on a price estimate
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  #3  
Old 09-27-2009, 05:58 PM
lucyred62 lucyred62 is offline
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Location: Westchester county, ny
 
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Thanks for the reply. I can't get pictures unfortunately as it is being sold at a gas station. One of our great bimmerfest memebers turned me on to it. It is not listed anywhere, and it was raining when I went today, and I didn't think to take pictures.
My concerns mostly seem to be that I will probably need to get a new top to fix the window problem, the mileage issue on the carfax :http://www.carfax.com/viewEmailRepor...#DetailSection, and the brake sensor.
The problem is that to find a mint one that is near perfect, you will pay 5,000 at least.

I am assuming the odometer issue will be a problem if I go to sell it right. I am new to all of this, so any thoughts would be helpful.
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  #4  
Old 09-27-2009, 06:11 PM
_Ethrty-Andy_'s Avatar
_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucyred62 View Post
Thanks for the reply. I can't get pictures unfortunately as it is being sold at a gas station. One of our great bimmerfest memebers turned me on to it. It is not listed anywhere, and it was raining when I went today, and I didn't think to take pictures.
My concerns mostly seem to be that I will probably need to get a new top to fix the window problem, the mileage issue on the carfax :http://www.carfax.com/viewEmailRepor...#DetailSection, and the brake sensor.
The problem is that to find a mint one that is near perfect, you will pay 5,000 at least.

I am assuming the odometer issue will be a problem if I go to sell it right. I am new to all of this, so any thoughts would be helpful.
i dont have a vert so i have no idea about the top issue.

the milage may be of concern to potential buyers now as well as in the future. you could use this as leverage against the price as well.

the brake sensor isnt that big a deal. it can mean one of two things, your brake pads need changing or the sensor is shot. i would think that if the sensor goes on and off intermittently its the sensor that is shot, unless it comes on when you apply the brakes and off when they arent applied, which probably means that they are JUST starting to get to the point where they need to be cahnged
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Last updated 2nd January 2014

Last edited by _Ethrty-Andy_; 09-27-2009 at 06:12 PM. Reason: added paragraphs
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  #5  
Old 09-27-2009, 08:08 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethrty View Post
the brake sensor isnt that big a deal. it can mean one of two things, your brake pads need changing or the sensor is shot. i would think that if the sensor goes on and off intermittently its the sensor that is shot, unless it comes on when you apply the brakes and off when they arent applied, which probably means that they are JUST starting to get to the point where they need to be cahnged
i did have the intermitting brake lining light. the sensor wires were frayed but the pads were also thin. but pads are around the $40 range for basic bi metal compounds and i spent $76 for both front brembo blank rotors
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  #6  
Old 09-27-2009, 08:43 PM
_Ethrty-Andy_'s Avatar
_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downhiller View Post
i did have the intermitting brake lining light. the sensor wires were frayed but the pads were also thin. but pads are around the $40 range for basic bi metal compounds and i spent $76 for both front brembo blank rotors
are you using stock pads on brembo rotors? pretty sure thats a bad idea? iirc steve and anstead were having a btich fight about that a few months ago
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