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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 01-04-2013, 01:02 PM
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Studawg Studawg is offline
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Wait wait wait wait a minute, back up. You mean to tell me bluebee is a she???

Page 4

Last edited by Studawg; 01-04-2013 at 01:04 PM.
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  #77  
Old 02-09-2013, 02:21 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, there is some information for those who try the key and fail (due to not turning it enough) in this thread today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwman47 View Post
My son left his 1998 528 stand several days
with a dead battery. Tonight we could not even open the doors or trunk. Any ideas what we should do besides calling a locksmith.?
EDIT: Bringing over some of the knowledge from that thread to keep it all together for the next person to benefit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
I still don't get it...if you have a key...you can open the trunk or the door manually. The probability of both the trunk AND the door not opening manually is rare. If you can open either one...then there's no need to jack up the car. If you can open the door manually, then you can also open the hood once the door is open and apply cables to the jump start location in the hood which will give you enough power to electrically open the trunk and other doors.

If the driver's door can't be opened manually after inserting the key and turning (or lubricating the lock cylinder if it is seized from non use)...then the trunk can be manually opened and jumper cables applied to the battery...which will supply enough power to use the remote key to unlock the car doors.


(driver's door w/key turned 90 degrees counter-clockwise to the MANUAL UNLOCK position)




(electronic actuation @ 45 degrees...manual actuation @ 90 degrees)





If your door and trunk lock cylinder do NOT turn 90 degrees right/left...then for GAWD sake...take the time to lubricate them so that they work properly!! A can of lubricant with a "straw"...insert the straw into the lock cylinder and a couple of squirts should do the job.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
1+,

Follow QSilver instructions.

However, if that fails...This is a little known secret, on the driver's side chassis, if you crawl from underneath looking upward, there is a Positive Post that feeds the Starter Motor.

In desperate situation, one can apply some voltage to open doors by using appropriate alligator clips wire:
- One clip goes to this Positive Post.
- Another Clip goes to Transmission Housing or any ground
(Just make sure you don't short the wires).
- Then connect both wires to a donor car's battery (any car with 12V battery).
- Lift the LF wheel up and rest in on some wood ramps.
Or you can use jackstand.
- Crawl underneath, you will see the red post, where the wire feeding the starter motor comes from.

Now you can use your key remote to open the door.


Quote:
Originally Posted by occhis View Post
What they are trying to tell you is that no electricity is needed to unlock with the key manually. With the key in the door lock, turn the key counter clockwise. You will encounter some resistance but keep turning (about 90 degrees) and that manual action will push the lock button on the door up, thereby allowing you to open the door.
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 02-09-2013 at 04:29 AM.
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  #78  
Old 04-01-2013, 11:17 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, this was posted today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by *****zo View Post
cliff notes below.

I have a new to me 530i I put in storage back in November. Prior to storing the car, I did the usual winterizing including lubricating the door locks. I also disconnected the battery since the car would not be driving for another 6 months. I believe I locked the car remotely then disconnected the battery.

Fast forward 3 months later, and it was time to go check on the car. I put the key in the door lock and tried to turn counter clockwise but the key would not barge. I tried the key on the trunk lock and had the same result. It felt as though I would break the key within the lock cylinder if I applied more force . This was back in January so I concluded the lock was frozen. After all, the car was stored in an unheated garage and the temp at the time was below 10F. I figured I would return when it warmed up.

Yesterday it was ~40F so I figured I would go check on the car. Once again, I tried to open the door and trunk but yet again the locks would not barge. At that time I resulted to searching the forums and found there were several people who had ran into a similar situation. It appeared, I had to somehow supply 12 volts to the car in order to unlock the doors. One member on here suggested supplying 12 volts to the foglight lead then using the remote to open the doors. I used a small 12V battery with a fuse on it and was able to open the doors remotely within 5 minutes.

This allowed access into the car but did not solve the issue with the cylinder locks. I tried to lubricate the door and trunk lock while turning but was still unsuccessful. Finally, out of frustration, I pushed the key into the lock as far as it would go then turned. To my surprise the cylinder turned very smoothly to the 45 and 90 degree position. I tried the same approach at the trunk lock and was able to turn it easily. I came to the conclusion that my issue was as a result of a bent key blade. I'm not sure how the previous owner got it this bad.

Below are pictures comparing a brand new key to the old bent key.


Cliff notes: If you cannot unlock your door manually, ensure the key is inserted all the way into the cylinder lock. You may need to apply some force to get it all the way into the cylinder lock.
__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #79  
Old 06-20-2014, 05:50 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Another one today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Master Key won't open trunk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfitton View Post
Hey guys,
So I haven't been able to open the trunk of my 2001 530i for a few hours now. From what I've gathered looking around, it somehow got into valet mode (maybe I was trying to lock it?), so now I can't open the trunk electronically. I tried opening it manually with the key, but the key won't open the trunk. It's sometimes difficult for me to unlock and lock the doors anyway with the key--my remote doesn't work. I'm really starting to feel like I bought someone else's burden because every single piece of this car seems to be breaking.

Anyway, I went to see my mechanic, and he said the key looked chewed up and like it's in bad condition. He suggested I go to a business that specializes in automotive keys and locks when it opens tomorrow. My real question, I guess, is whether there is anything I've missed, and what options I have. Where can I get another authentic key? Do I have to replace all the locks in the car? Do you think that I'd be able to unlock the trunk if I greased up the key and lock?

I'm kind of lost, and this fix is taking priority, because a few of the electrical issues I need to fix require trunk access.
Thanks in advance.
__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 06-20-2014 at 11:17 PM.
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  #80  
Old 11-28-2014, 01:00 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, this classic question was asked today over here and answered in classic form:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Question about battery removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by BashE39 View Post
So i wanna take out my battery from the trunk of my e39 and let it charge for overnight.
Now how can you open the trunk to place back the battery if there aint no power in your car??
Quote:
Originally Posted by HolyToledo View Post
use the key.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BashE39 View Post
Damnnn haha I never noticed the key hole on the trunk..
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
You can charge the battery in situ, w/o the need to remove it from the trunk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
If you can get power to the car, just plug in the charger. I've done it countless times, in fact I the battery tender hooked right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by E39Hoon View Post
You can also charge from under the hood, but I prefer right at the battery.
Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
In any event, wait 16 min before disconnecting the battery: The trunk light will go out. Otherwise, you run the risk of scrambling one or more electronic modules.
Charge it in place.
See also:
- How to open the trunk when you have a dead battery (1) * what are the complete steps for the elusive "BMW battery reset" procedure (1) (2) (3) & 16-minute timeout warning (1)
__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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