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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-04-2009, 06:49 PM
IkeRay IkeRay is offline
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Driver's Window Switch Doesn't Work, Locks Neither

It's not regulator related, there are no mechanical noise coming from the door, also, the other windows don't work via the master switch but the passenger rolls down fine (rear don't but thats master switch related). funny because I opened the window and paid the toll and closed the window fine, 5-10 miles later opened again to pay the toll and it stayed down . thankfully the rain had subsided at this point and we were able to make it home dry.

so the question is, does the driver's master switch contain the brains for the windows and locks and thus just need to replace that part, or is it another part that needs to be replaced? also, what are the different versions of the driver's window switch? I know there is a M5 one with an additional button for the mirror fold and an e39 version with out the mirror fold switch, but are there different models between the years or will any "e39" model fit my 1997?

finally, is there a place I can apply power to get the window to roll up while its out of commission? I would rather a window stuck up than stuck down.
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  #2  
Old 10-04-2009, 07:33 PM
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dannyc9997 dannyc9997 is offline
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Try putting the key in the door lock and holding it in the lock position, that should cause all windows to close. Im not sure though if it sends the command through the switch that you suspect is faulty.
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  #3  
Old 10-04-2009, 07:55 PM
IkeRay IkeRay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyc9997 View Post
Try putting the key in the door lock and holding it in the lock position, that should cause all windows to close. Im not sure though if it sends the command through the switch that you suspect is faulty.
tried it, it didn't do anything locking/unlocking the doors nor rolling down/up the windows. I would try the key, but last thing I need is more windows being stuck down as the rear windows don't work via their switches, assuming its a "child lock" switch on the master door switch.
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  #4  
Old 10-04-2009, 08:03 PM
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dannyc9997 dannyc9997 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IkeRay View Post
tried it, it didn't do anything locking/unlocking the doors nor rolling down/up the windows. I would try the key, but last thing I need is more windows being stuck down as the rear windows don't work via their switches, assuming its a "child lock" switch on the master door switch.
You cant roll up the windows with the key remote, if thats what you tried, only with the key in the door. There is no risk of having more windows go down if you hold the key in the lock position. There is a window lock switch on the drivers controls, its the long bar button. If you cant see the red stripe on the bottom of the button then the rear windows are locked.
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  #5  
Old 10-04-2009, 08:24 PM
IkeRay IkeRay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyc9997 View Post
You cant roll up the windows with the key remote, if thats what you tried, only with the key in the door. There is no risk of having more windows go down if you hold the key in the lock position. There is a window lock switch on the drivers controls, its the long bar button. If you cant see the red stripe on the bottom of the button then the rear windows are locked.
no, what I mean is the key in the door didn't control the windows nor lock/unlock the door. the keypad still locks/unlocks the car, but I'm afraid to test the key "comfort entry" mode (roll down windows by holding keypad unlock for X seconds) because I don't want more windows rolled down. the rear windows don't work at their switches because the master switch is removed (plus messed up) so the window lock isn't activating NOR deactivating so it seems default is window lock on.
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  #6  
Old 10-04-2009, 09:52 PM
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MatWiz MatWiz is offline
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You have a bad switch. Too bad, it is $$$ ....

Make sure to verify it, if you have a friend with the same car, try to swap switch with him to see if the problem moved to his car, and your's is ok.

mw
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  #7  
Old 10-05-2009, 06:14 AM
IkeRay IkeRay is offline
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Originally Posted by MatWiz View Post
You have a bad switch. Too bad, it is $$$ ....

Make sure to verify it, if you have a friend with the same car, try to swap switch with him to see if the problem moved to his car, and your's is ok.

mw
yeah, its looking like $75-100 for a used, $225-300 for a new, hence why I was trying to make sure it was ONLY the switch and not something else. I'll be happy with it being just the switch but I don't want to fork out the $75+ and learn my switch was just fine. unfortunately, there is nobody I know with a 5-series, let alone an e39.

I might just have to try the junkyard to see if maybe one came in, they are rare. in the mean time, does anyone know of a way to put power directly to the motor to roll up the window? car is out of commission until I get this window rolled up.
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  #8  
Old 10-05-2009, 07:04 AM
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MatWiz MatWiz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IkeRay View Post
yeah, its looking like $75-100 for a used, $225-300 for a new, hence why I was trying to make sure it was ONLY the switch and not something else. I'll be happy with it being just the switch but I don't want to fork out the $75+ and learn my switch was just fine. unfortunately, there is nobody I know with a 5-series, let alone an e39.

I might just have to try the junkyard to see if maybe one came in, they are rare. in the mean time, does anyone know of a way to put power directly to the motor to roll up the window? car is out of commission until I get this window rolled up.
I can't give you a direct answer to that. But just a direction. The motor is a bi-directional motor. If I remember correctly (probably not... ) there are 3 pins that go into the motor. One is ground, on is up, the other is down. If you connect a voltmeter to the motor plug and press the switch "down", you can find out which 2 are the down, so the other one is the UP. Put 12v to that one and the motor will go up.

Another way: pull/pry the switch out of the door (you don't need to remove the door panel), open the switch, and see if you can figure out which wire goes to 'UP'. You can do that by comparing the driver window to the passenger window switch. You can temporarily short circuit between the left and right window (or switch them), and close your driver window.

Confusing?

mw
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Last edited by MatWiz; 10-05-2009 at 07:17 AM.
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