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Do-It-Yourself H.Q.
Share your DIY projects or ask questions about how to fix something on your own. Help fellow Bimmerfest members improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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  #1  
Old 09-12-2003, 11:46 AM
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FrenchBoy FrenchBoy is offline
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Brake Pads replacement DIY?

Is there a nice website out there that clearly (preferably with pictures)explains out to replace the brake pads on our BMWs.

I am thinking about replacing my OEM pads with EBC Greenstuff.

Thanks,

FrenchBoy
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  #2  
Old 09-12-2003, 11:48 AM
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There's a couple of REALLY detailed ones for the M3...not sure if it would translate exactly, but it should help.

Imagestation DIY --107 pictures!

mike_m3's DIY page
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  #3  
Old 09-12-2003, 11:48 AM
TD
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This is actually a pretty good DIY for pad replacement- http://www.e46fanatics.com/howto/how...hp?howto_id=29
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  #4  
Old 09-12-2003, 11:59 AM
Akakubi Akakubi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBoy
Is there a nice website out there that clearly (preferably with pictures)explains out to replace the brake pads on our BMWs.

I am thinking about replacing my OEM pads with EBC Greenstuff.

Thanks,

FrenchBoy

NOOOOOOO! Stay away from the GreenStuff.

They will squeal and eat your rotors soon. All of the folks I know who had the Greens, took them off with disgust.

It is so easy to replace the pads, that it''s not even worth doing a DIY write-up. Here's a mini one:

I'll tell you step by step:

1. Remove the wheel.

2. Take an Allen (Hex) 7 or 8mm and remove the guiding pins on the inner side of the caliper. They are protected by a rubber cap, can't miss them. On this picture they are the two black round ones.




3. Remove the metal pad-retaining clip on the front of the caliper. You'll see it right in front of you. You can use a flathead screw driver to wiggle it out. Normally, it'll pop out easily.



4. Lift the upper part of the caliper. On the Driver's side Front and Passenger Side Rear, pull out the brake sensor before lifting. Remember the way it was inserted, so you can put it back the same way. If damaged, you can pick one up at your dealer for $13.00.

5. Remove the old pads and replace with the new ones. Use a C-Clamp to push the brake piston in if necessary. Very straight forward.

6. Repeat the process back and you're done.

7. I would recommend a brake fluid flush, but it's optional.

That said, get Axxis Ultimate pads for the street/light track/AutoX. Hawk HPS are the second choice, but the will make a noise occasionally and dust a lot. But stay away from the Greens....
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Last edited by Akakubi; 09-12-2003 at 12:23 PM.
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  #5  
Old 09-12-2003, 12:20 PM
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Thanks guys. This is great information That's why I love this board.

I will stay away from the Greenstuff and check out the Axxis Ultimate pads.

FrenchBoy
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  #6  
Old 09-12-2003, 12:44 PM
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Where can you purchase the Axxis Ultimate pads? It seems that the places that I usually buy things at (HMS, BavarianAuto, etc.) do not carry them.

Thanks,

FrenchBoy
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  #7  
Old 09-12-2003, 12:58 PM
Akakubi Akakubi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBoy
Where can you purchase the Axxis Ultimate pads? It seems that the places that I usually buy things at (HMS, BavarianAuto, etc.) do not carry them.

Thanks,

FrenchBoy
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  #8  
Old 09-12-2003, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBoy
Is there a nice website out there that clearly (preferably with pictures)explains out to replace the brake pads on our BMWs.

I am thinking about replacing my OEM pads with EBC Greenstuff.

Thanks,

FrenchBoy
Nicolas, Akakubi is right. A lot of people at driving schools recommend the Hawks. I've been very happy with the Performance Friction pads that I put in, although they do squeak a bit under light braking at low speeds. The install is easy if you've done it once. Ideally, you should get some help first time around. I'd be glad to help you - give me a call if you're interested. Maybe we can get together Friday before the CCA/PCA event.
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  #9  
Old 09-13-2003, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brave1heart
I'd be glad to help you - give me a call if you're interested. Maybe we can get together Friday before the CCA/PCA event.
I might take you up on that. I will probably run the CCA/PCA event on my current pads. However, I am thinking about getting new pads for the October 4th, AutoX. Maybe we can get together the weekend before for another "tech session"

I also got new tires, Yokohama AVS ES100. Can't wait to try them on the course.

FrenchBoy
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  #10  
Old 09-13-2003, 08:10 AM
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brave1heart brave1heart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBoy
I might take you up on that. I will probably run the CCA/PCA event on my current pads. However, I am thinking about getting new pads for the October 4th, AutoX. Maybe we can get together the weekend before for another "tech session"

I also got new tires, Yokohama AVS ES100. Can't wait to try them on the course.

FrenchBoy
I'll be getting ES100s too in a couple of weeks when I eat up through the remaining tread. I've been expecting the Sumi HTR Z IIs to fall apart for the past 4-5K miles but they refuse to die I am projecting I'll get ~ 27K miles out of them. I am going with wider tires, though - 235/40/17 all around.

I am going to Mont Tremblant for driving school the weekend before the Oct 4 autoX but we could get together on Friday Oct.3 - I'll be home all day. Are you doing both fronts and rears or just the fronts? It takes ~ 1/2 hr per corner.
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'01 325i: Orient Blue/black, SP, M stress bar, UUC sways, TMS camber plates, TMS rear sub reinf kit, CAI, Shark, Borla, Dunlop Direzza 245/40/17 on 17x8 O.Z. Superleggeras

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  #11  
Old 09-14-2003, 08:10 PM
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That sounds like a plan. Let's talk about it next Saturday. at the first annual CCA/PCA autoX. I am eagerly looking forward to it.

FrenchBoy
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  #12  
Old 09-15-2003, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akakubi
Akakubi,

Thanks for all the advice. I actually just ordered a set of Axxis Ultimate pads for the front and rear from your website.

However, I was a little confused with the purchase process. I was not prompted to enter any payment information. How am I expected to pay?

Also when should I expect the pads to come in.

Thanks again,

FrenchBoy
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  #13  
Old 09-15-2003, 09:22 AM
Akakubi Akakubi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBoy
Akakubi,

Thanks for all the advice. I actually just ordered a set of Axxis Ultimate pads for the front and rear from your website.

However, I was a little confused with the purchase process. I was not prompted to enter any payment information. How am I expected to pay?

Also when should I expect the pads to come in.

Thanks again,

FrenchBoy
Check your PM
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  #14  
Old 09-29-2003, 11:05 AM
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I finally installed the Axxis Ultimate pads this past Saturday. Thanks to the great DIYs (they are incredible really! Thanks so much for those who put these together ) and advice from people from this forum, I manage to install the pads on all four wheels without any problems. I feel pretty proud of myself

The only thing that somewhat slowed me down in my endeavour - and I don't think it was not mentioned in the DIYs - is that the clearance behind the 7mm allen bolt on the rear wheels is not very big, due to the shock being right behind it.

Anyway, I have been driving with the new pads for a couple of days now and my first impression is very positive. They have an incredible bite and seem to slow down the car in a hurry. they do not make any weird sound so far, and dust seems minimal. It maybe a little early to judge these last two things though. I cannot wait until the Autocross this Saturday to really try them out on the course.

Thanks again to all who helped out.

FrenchBoy
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  #15  
Old 09-29-2003, 11:53 AM
noflash noflash is offline
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Anyone have the DIY for the rotors?

Aren't we supposed to change the rotors with our pads?
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  #16  
Old 09-29-2003, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noflash
Anyone have the DIY for the rotors?

Aren't we supposed to change the rotors with our pads?
This Imagestation DIY actually contains the instructions for changing rotors. My rotors are fine after 38,000 miles and I did see the need to change them yet.

I will presumably change them next time I change my pads.

FrenchBoy
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  #17  
Old 09-29-2003, 12:03 PM
noflash noflash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBoy
This Imagestation DIY actually contains the instructions for changing rotors. My rotors are fine after 38,000 miles and I did see the need to change them yet.

I will presumably change them next time I change my pads.

FrenchBoy
I have about 36K miles. How can you tell if your rotors need changing or not?

My Dealer Service Rep said BMW need the rotors changed every time the pads are changed. Is he full of it?
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  #18  
Old 11-29-2003, 08:47 AM
markusmark markusmark is offline
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Brakes

Another good source for brake pads and related goodies is www.stoptech.com.
A rotor should be replaced when its thickness reaches a minimum value as measured with a micrometer. According to the Bentley manual, the front rotors should be replaced when the mircometer reading is 0.8 inches (20.4mm) or less. The rears should be replaced when the reading is 0.68 inches (17.4mm) or less. Also, for OEM rotors, the minimum thickness value is stamped on the rotor hub.

HTH
Mark
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  #19  
Old 02-09-2004, 10:20 PM
mozaic mozaic is offline
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Location: Ann Arbor, MI
 
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Rotor replacement

Anyone have a DIY on replacing the rotors?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Akakubi
NOOOOOOO! Stay away from the GreenStuff.

They will squeal and eat your rotors soon. All of the folks I know who had the Greens, took them off with disgust.

It is so easy to replace the pads, that it''s not even worth doing a DIY write-up. Here's a mini one:

I'll tell you step by step:

1. Remove the wheel.

2. Take an Allen (Hex) 7 or 8mm and remove the guiding pins on the inner side of the caliper. They are protected by a rubber cap, can't miss them. On this picture they are the two black round ones.




3. Remove the metal pad-retaining clip on the front of the caliper. You'll see it right in front of you. You can use a flathead screw driver to wiggle it out. Normally, it'll pop out easily.



4. Lift the upper part of the caliper. On the Driver's side Front and Passenger Side Rear, pull out the brake sensor before lifting. Remember the way it was inserted, so you can put it back the same way. If damaged, you can pick one up at your dealer for $13.00.

5. Remove the old pads and replace with the new ones. Use a C-Clamp to push the brake piston in if necessary. Very straight forward.

6. Repeat the process back and you're done.

7. I would recommend a brake fluid flush, but it's optional.

That said, get Axxis Ultimate pads for the street/light track/AutoX. Hawk HPS are the second choice, but the will make a noise occasionally and dust a lot. But stay away from the Greens....
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  #20  
Old 03-07-2004, 03:24 PM
jbripps jbripps is offline
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Here is a great link I used. Have fun, it's not so bad, just be patient.



http://www.my330i.com/mod9.php



regards,
Jon
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  #21  
Old 05-21-2004, 04:39 PM
Boschforeignltd Boschforeignltd is offline
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Step by step

I can send you a step by step instruction sheet if you want. It is really very simple.
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  #22  
Old 06-16-2004, 05:53 PM
briscuit briscuit is offline
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Great info and links! THe sensor that is on the front drivers side... Do i need to replace that? Also, how do i get the light off on the dashboard?

Thanks,
Briscuit
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  #23  
Old 06-16-2004, 07:55 PM
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FrenchBoy FrenchBoy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briscuit
Great info and links! THe sensor that is on the front drivers side... Do i need to replace that? Also, how do i get the light off on the dashboard?

Thanks,
Briscuit
You need to replace the sensor only if it is worn out (i.e. the light on the dash has come on). In your case, I am assuming that it has, so yes you need to replace it. Just check which one tirggered the light, the front or the rear sensor, and replace just that one.

I believe that you need to leave the key in position II in the ignition for like 30 secondes to reset the brake light sensor and turn it off.

Good luck,
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  #24  
Old 11-29-2004, 12:11 PM
noflash noflash is offline
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Are our rotors turnable?

The BP change looks easy enough. My rotors look pretty good, but there is a slight ridge where my old pad has been. Does it need to be turned?
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  #25  
Old 11-30-2004, 07:44 AM
ChrisF ChrisF is offline
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Thanks for the write ups

I just wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.

I'm probably, one of the least handy guys on the planet, but I successfully changed my front and rear pads, rotors, and wear sensors this past weekend, had fun doing it, AND saved a bunch of money in the process. The detailed procedures and pictures provided here are incredible. Believe me, if I can do it anyone can.

The only hickup I had was getting the rotors off. I ended up breaking my rubber mallet banging on one of them. Still, after paying $360 for parts vs. the $1,000 the dealer wanted to do the job, I can afford to buy myself a new mallet

Thanks again!
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