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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Talk about the E83 BMW X3 in this forum!

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  #26  
Old 02-21-2011, 06:26 PM
pezjunki pezjunki is offline
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Here are some pics:
It is SUPER hard to get that tab in the window hole!

Last edited by pezjunki; 02-21-2011 at 06:27 PM.
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  #27  
Old 02-21-2011, 06:30 PM
pezjunki pezjunki is offline
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Most important, pop the nut on the wire into the socket. The first time i did it, it popped out the first time i tried to roll down the window, so I had to do it all over again!!! This is also the part that originally broke.
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  #28  
Old 03-15-2011, 06:17 AM
ryanoscerous ryanoscerous is offline
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Hello all, drive dog failed here. Found the part on realoem.com, but how do you actually order it? I cannot find a likn or a phone number anywhere on the site?
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  #29  
Old 03-15-2011, 06:22 AM
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X3-terrestrial X3-terrestrial is offline
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AFAIK, You can't order directly from them. Take the part number and order from Tischer BMW or your local dealer.
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  #30  
Old 03-15-2011, 06:37 AM
ryanoscerous ryanoscerous is offline
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Thanks man, i ordered from Bavarian autosport as the dealer doesnt sell just the driver, of course. Thanks for the reply
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  #31  
Old 03-15-2011, 10:37 AM
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X3-terrestrial X3-terrestrial is offline
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That's odd, I got mine from my local dealer. But good you sorted it out.
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  #32  
Old 03-16-2011, 01:06 PM
bluskye bluskye is offline
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The dealer does indeed sell all the parts I described, including the Butyl tape. You give them the part numbers, they order it for you. If they dont, find the manager or find another honest dealership.
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  #33  
Old 03-16-2011, 05:55 PM
chrisk03 chrisk03 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minniemoe View Post
We had both windows on X3 2004 - drop in tracks. BMW charged us 400.00 per window.
We are not mechanics. HAs anyone had any communication about BMW 's resonsibility on this? First time ever, a in operative window --both sides.

Our Car was out of warrenty, it sucks.
Feel your pain, just had this done on our out of warranty 2004 X3. I should have just done myself, as I know I could do, but just too busy. Got hit for about the same price as you and they fixed the headlight washers that were leaking as well. After seeing the parts on Page 2, no wonder they break, chip-a$$ plastic.
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  #34  
Old 05-08-2011, 07:19 AM
chagrin chagrin is offline
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Our X3's passenger rear window drive dog broke last week. I ordered the part form Tischer and installed it over the weekend. Thanks to all the info on the forum, the job was fairly easy and we saved $400 by not taking it to the dealer. Thanks to everyone that supplied DIY info and photos.
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  #35  
Old 09-10-2011, 10:12 PM
ewick12 ewick12 is offline
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My window regulator in the rear driver window is about to break. It takes a while to close the window and occasionally it will go down when I tell it to go up. Can I just replace the dog or is the whole regulator trashed?
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  #36  
Old 09-11-2011, 09:36 AM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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Dog replacement is a solution only for when the window has dropped completely and won't go up at all.
Usually after a loud cracking noise, I believe.

Failure of the regulator motor or any other parts is quite rare.

Failure of the driver's master switch for windows and mirrors OTOH is not unheard of.

Sounds like you may have a switch problem, but ...

it is always worth making sure the window channels are as clean as you can get them to cure a slow rising window.

You may have a resistance there that makes the window go into safety mode and reverse.

The rubber parts need to be pliable (use a rubber dressing), and the fabric parts might benefit from something like powdered graphite to reduce resistance on the glass.

Worked for me, when one window tended to slow down near the top.

Regular use of the windows also seems to forestall any problems.
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  #37  
Old 09-26-2011, 02:38 PM
a3anda5 a3anda5 is offline
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New to the boards. Just want to say thanks for all the help. Removed door panel and driver dog from my 04 X3. Just ordered from Tischer. My local dealer wanted $69.00 for the part. I live 40 miles away so figure in fuel to get there. Thanks to you folks $54.00 delivered to my fromt door.

Thanks Again!!
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  #38  
Old 02-24-2012, 08:30 AM
Dragondriver Dragondriver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pezjunki View Post
Here are some pics:
It is SUPER hard to get that tab in the window hole!

Any techniques that would snap into the hole easily. I had forced a push down still cannot postion into the hole what shown on the pic. This is getting so frustrated.
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  #39  
Old 02-24-2012, 04:02 PM
Dragondriver Dragondriver is offline
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Bmw X3 Window Regulator Rear Left

I took the advise using Lubricator,WD40 which is easily can be found in my house. It does work and easily snap the clip into the holes. But here you have to be very careful since it is very slippery I suggest to wear glove with latex grips on it 'cos I didn't so I got cuts by sharp metal while wobbling into position. It seems to me problems rising one after another. Now that I had installed everything back into original places. When I ignite the engine key it won't start. I knew it wasn't battery down because audio system can be played...it just when ignite the engine the ABS flash and click click sound. Is this mean I have to reset the "ABS" I also realize the Clock also when to 00:00:00 I can't even turn the navigator on. Anybody know what I need to do? reset ABS? or something? Please help. Thank you!
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  #40  
Old 02-25-2012, 09:27 AM
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timfitz63 timfitz63 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragondriver View Post
... When I ignite the engine key it won't start. I knew it wasn't battery down because audio system can be played...it just when ignite the engine the ABS flash and click click sound. Is this mean I have to reset the "ABS" I also realize the Clock also when to 00:00:00 I can't even turn the navigator on. Anybody know what I need to do? reset ABS? or something? Please help. Thank you!
Don't be so sure it's not the battery; a battery may have enough juice to power low-draw accessory items like the audio system, but won't have enough to crank the engine.

The symptoms you're describing (particularly a clicking noise when you engage the starter) are the tell-tale signs of a weak battery. So, the first thing to do is check your battery: connections (for security), voltage, etc. It's possible that, while performing the repair work on your window regulator, that you had the door open enough times, and for long-enough periods, to draw down the battery. If so, put a battery charger on it for a day or so, then try to start it again. Jump-starting the car is also an option. Be prepared that the battery just might be shot and need replacement; if it's old (e.g., the original battery), it's time will come eventually...

Regarding the flaky indications (ABS, clock display, etc.): these X3's, like a lot of modern vehicles, are fussy about battery voltage; if it's just below the proper threshold, the electronics will do all sorts of weird things. Assuming your battery is just depleted, a properly charged battery should correct those problems.

Good luck!
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  #41  
Old 02-25-2012, 12:07 PM
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Dominic49 Dominic49 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragondriver View Post
Any techniques that would snap into the hole easily. I had forced a push down still cannot postion into the hole what shown on the pic. This is getting so frustrated.
i just used a rubber mallet with a firm whack from the top of the glass and it gets it every time
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  #42  
Old 02-28-2012, 11:55 AM
Dragondriver Dragondriver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timfitz63 View Post
Don't be so sure it's not the battery; a battery may have enough juice to power low-draw accessory items like the audio system, but won't have enough to crank the engine.

The symptoms you're describing (particularly a clicking noise when you engage the starter) are the tell-tale signs of a weak battery. So, the first thing to do is check your battery: connections (for security), voltage, etc. It's possible that, while performing the repair work on your window regulator, that you had the door open enough times, and for long-enough periods, to draw down the battery. If so, put a battery charger on it for a day or so, then try to start it again. Jump-starting the car is also an option. Be prepared that the battery just might be shot and need replacement; if it's old (e.g., the original battery), it's time will come eventually...

Regarding the flaky indications (ABS, clock display, etc.): these X3's, like a lot of modern vehicles, are fussy about battery voltage; if it's just below the proper threshold, the electronics will do all sorts of weird things. Assuming your battery is just depleted, a properly charged battery should correct those problems.

Good luck!

How many Amp needed to recharge the battery?
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  #43  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:09 PM
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timfitz63 timfitz63 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragondriver View Post
How many Amp needed to recharge the battery?
Typically, a long-term ("trickle") charger will only be putting a few amps or less to the battery; say 1-2. Some shorter-term chargers that give a faster 'recovery' charge can offer quite a bit more: 6-12 amps. I even have an older charger that offers a 'start' setting, that [theoretically] functions like a jump start off another vehicle...
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  #44  
Old 02-29-2012, 12:30 PM
Dragondriver Dragondriver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timfitz63 View Post
Typically, a long-term ("trickle") charger will only be putting a few amps or less to the battery; say 1-2. Some shorter-term chargers that give a faster 'recovery' charge can offer quite a bit more: 6-12 amps. I even have an older charger that offers a 'start' setting, that [theoretically] functions like a jump start off another vehicle...


tell me if this Jumpstarter work DYNAMATE 300 AMP 12 VOLT POWER CHARGER JUMP STARTER CAR BATTERY BOOSTER DP300 ?
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  #45  
Old 02-29-2012, 12:55 PM
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timfitz63 timfitz63 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragondriver View Post
tell me if this Jumpstarter work DYNAMATE 300 AMP 12 VOLT POWER CHARGER JUMP STARTER CAR BATTERY BOOSTER DP300 ?
Theoretically, it should work if your battery is depleted, but not worn out; however, I'm not familiar with that particular model or manufacturer of emergency jump starter. I have a similar one, from a different manufacturer, that's worked fine for me in the past; I've used it on other vehicles, but not my X3, which I've not had to jump start.
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  #46  
Old 03-08-2012, 01:42 PM
Dragondriver Dragondriver is offline
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Jumpstartign BMW X3 05' Model

Recently I realize my battery need a boost with battery booster pack. So I went online and bought Schumacher 750amp battery Jumpstarter. After package arrive I checked the booster to see if is fully charge. Indicator shown fully charge. I took the booster to the trunk where the X3 battery located. I connect the red clamp to positive battery. Black clamp to negative 'cos I don't see where I can ground the black clamp because the x3 model not like other ordinary where specified to ground on engine. In this scenario x3 battery surround with foam. When turnning on the ignition key it won't ignite the engine. Then decided to unclamp from battery next thing I know the car power completly gone. Before the process it use to have light when door open. Now no power. Can somebody tell mw what is going on? what I had done wrong? This is getting frustrated 'cos I relies this car to go to work. Thanking you in advance.
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  #47  
Old 05-28-2012, 03:52 PM
subirs subirs is offline
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Arrow Thanks to all!

Thanks to all those who posted.... I am a newbie in auto reapir, but kenza's detailed instructions/photos and your shared experiences made the task real easy. Some observations:
  1. Supercourse mentioned that the drive-dog replacement is only for windows that have completely fallen down and will not go up. In my case the window would go up each time but stop around 3 inches short and I'd just pull it right to the top. I purchased a regulator locally, just in case.
  2. The drive-dog was much easier to remove (and to install the new one!) from the rail when I moved the dog to the part of the rail where the dog could do a 90+ degree rotation without any obstruction in the back. The "push" dog out (step 6 in kenza's instuctions) did not work for me.
  3. The tab was difficult for me to remove on the broken dog. I used a plastic ball-point pen to push it out. It was much easier to push out after I used a small metal pick to pull the black triangular foam cushion (on the dog) from under the glass.
  4. I had help, but could not get the tab on the new dog into the window. After multiple attempts I got it within 1mm and then decided to run the window all the way up. This worked the dog into the window - it made a loud pop when it sat in. I think this was risky, but it seemed to be the only option for me. Everything else I could think of would have damaged/bent the rail or the door frame.

I purchased the dog locally - it cost me $54 incl. tax. I had to purchase Torx bits - picked up a Titan 61 piece set from AutoZone for $15. I am going to invest in a plastic pry tool kit - the BSW tool kit is a little pricey as I have everything in the kit except the plastic tool. Will look to get a whole plastic SIR set for the same price if I cannot get the individual tool. This is a must-have as it took me forever to remove the trim and door panels using a plastic scraper.
Thanks again!!
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  #48  
Old 05-29-2012, 01:56 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subirs View Post
Thanks to all those who posted.... I am a newbie in auto reapir, but kenza's detailed instructions/photos and your shared experiences made the task real easy. Some observations:
  1. Supercourse mentioned that the drive-dog replacement is only for windows that have completely fallen down and will not go up. In my case the window would go up each time but stop around 3 inches short and I'd just pull it right to the top. I purchased a regulator locally, just in case.
  2. The drive-dog was much easier to remove (and to install the new one!) from the rail when I moved the dog to the part of the rail where the dog could do a 90+ degree rotation without any obstruction in the back. The "push" dog out (step 6 in kenza's instuctions) did not work for me.
  3. The tab was difficult for me to remove on the broken dog. I used a plastic ball-point pen to push it out. It was much easier to push out after I used a small metal pick to pull the black triangular foam cushion (on the dog) from under the glass.
  4. I had help, but could not get the tab on the new dog into the window. After multiple attempts I got it within 1mm and then decided to run the window all the way up. This worked the dog into the window - it made a loud pop when it sat in. I think this was risky, but it seemed to be the only option for me. Everything else I could think of would have damaged/bent the rail or the door frame.

I purchased the dog locally - it cost me $54 incl. tax. I had to purchase Torx bits - picked up a Titan 61 piece set from AutoZone for $15. I am going to invest in a plastic pry tool kit - the BSW tool kit is a little pricey as I have everything in the kit except the plastic tool. Will look to get a whole plastic SIR set for the same price if I cannot get the individual tool. This is a must-have as it took me forever to remove the trim and door panels using a plastic scraper.
Thanks again!!
Harbor Freight sells a trim kit has everything you need for like $10.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-67021.html
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  #49  
Old 07-04-2012, 11:51 AM
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sayemthree sayemthree is offline
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I just did my left door rear driver dog (did the right side a year ago). took me 20 minutes now that I know what I am doing.

I got the drive dog for $15 on Ebay. WOW!!!!! the dealer wanted $56. the part is aftermarket but it fits and functions fine. you have to remove the rubber bempers from the broken pice and install on the new one.
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  #50  
Old 07-07-2012, 12:30 PM
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sayemthree sayemthree is offline
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I eneded up with an extra rear left driver dog. I will sell it for $15 plus shipping. PM me.
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