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5 Series DIY
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  #26  
Old 12-16-2009, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
I just bought a new one the other day from Crown BMW of Greensboro--they told me that all of the new ccv valves have the cover on them at no extra charge.
This makes sense since the problem appear to be occurring everywhere, irrespective of environmental conditions. Another reason why the CCV is a cr@ppy design.
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  #27  
Old 12-20-2009, 10:11 AM
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I have about 27 additional pictures of this procedure (too many to post here unless someone knows how to do it) and have written up a description of these pics. These go with the DIY. If anyone needs this info, please PM me with your email address and I will send them to you. Could be helpful as you go through this effort.
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  #28  
Old 12-21-2009, 12:44 PM
Dworkin Dworkin is offline
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Great write up. My 2001 needs this done and I've been thinking of doing it myself.
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  #29  
Old 12-21-2009, 07:52 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
I have about 27 additional pictures of this procedure (too many to post here unless someone knows how to do it) and have written up a description of these pics. These go with the DIY. If anyone needs this info, please PM me with your email address and I will send them to you. Could be helpful as you go through this effort.
Actually, pretty easy to post more pictures.
Just call it Part I, Part II and Part II with each section contains 10 pictures or so.
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  #30  
Old 12-21-2009, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Actually, pretty easy to post more pictures.
Just call it Part I, Part II and Part II with each section contains 10 pictures or so.
Agreed! And watch smolck's videos.
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  #31  
Old 12-21-2009, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydrz View Post
Agreed! And watch smolck's videos.
Do you have those links to those videos?

Thanks!
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  #32  
Old 12-22-2009, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Do you have those links to those videos?

Thanks!
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I posted the first one on the first page of this thread...
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  #33  
Old 12-22-2009, 07:24 PM
Cmanride Cmanride is offline
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Thank you for the additional pics and info Fred, it is greatly appreciated.
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  #34  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Actually, pretty easy to post more pictures.
Just call it Part I, Part II and Part II with each section contains 10 pictures or so.
Copy that. I'll post them tonite or tomm'w. I've been labeling the photos so it's been going kinda slow.
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  #35  
Old 12-23-2009, 06:11 AM
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My turn is coming also....looking forward to your pictures. Thank you much.
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  #36  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:08 PM
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REFER TO THE ORIGINAL POST FOR THE STEPS:
NUMBERS REFER TO THE PHOTO:

1 – A top shot of where the various CCV hoses go.
2 – A view of the insulated CCV, note the foam rubber “jacket”
3 – A view of the new CCV with the hoses attached
4 – This is hose #2, Vent Pipe. The original is un-insulated.
5 – This shows hose #7, Return Pipe. The original is already insulated. Note how it attaches to hose # 3, Connecting Line.
6 – This is the air filter box, MAF & upper intake boot (steps 4 & 5) removed
7 – This is engine view of the air filter box, MAF & upper intake boot (steps 4 & 5) removed
8 – A different view of the same. Note the wiring box, dipstick tube & lower intake boot (step 6).
9 – This shows the 13mm bolt that holds the dipstick tube (step 7).
10 – This shows the dipstick tube removed with “mayo” inside the cut #4, Vent Hose.
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  #37  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:10 PM
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THE BALANCE OF THE PHOTOS:

11 – This is where the lower intake boot has been removed.
12 – The lower intake boot REMOVED.
13 – A view of the original un-insulated CCV still installed. The throttle body is blocking the view.
14 – This is the throttle body disconnected (step 9).
15 – This is a better view of the CCV connector knurls after modification (step 12).
16 – The alignment stripes (step 12).
17 – A photo of the CCV jacket modified (step 11)
18 – The CCV just before bolting back in place (step 12)
19 – This shows the electrical connectors tied together in Step 8.
20 – Routing of electrical wiring (step 15).
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  #38  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:12 PM
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Thanks for the pics!!
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  #39  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:15 PM
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Very detailed, thanks Fudman.
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  #40  
Old 12-23-2009, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydrz View Post
I posted the first one on the first page of this thread...
Doh!
I realized that afterward!
Sorry for the ignorance...

Is one of the symptoms of a failing CCV contributing to engine oil smelling like gas?
And, also consuming oil?

Is the failed blow-by from CCV causing this?
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  #41  
Old 12-24-2009, 05:19 AM
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Jason:
I believe what happens when the CCV fails (e.g. gets clogged and the valve no longer functions or the hoses no longer transport liquids or vapors), you get increased oil consumption or loss of oil because of a combination of two causes:
1. The blowby gases are not returned into the manifold. The blowby gases increase crankcase pressure causing oil leaks throught the seals.
2. Residual oil is also not returned to the sump.

Not sure if this will affect the smell of the oil or not but it might. The portion of the blowby that is bad for the crankcase is the fuel (upwards of 70%) in the fuel/oil mix. The fuel in the combustion chamber combines with the oil in the rings to create the fuel/oil mix that blows by the rings during combustion. Who knows?

Everyother car maker gets by with a single vent hose from the crankcase. I cannot figure out why BMW uses 4 separate hoses to accomplish this relatively simple function?
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  #42  
Old 12-25-2009, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
Jason:
I believe what happens when the CCV fails (e.g. gets clogged and the valve no longer functions or the hoses no longer transport liquids or vapors), you get increased oil consumption or loss of oil because of a combination of two causes:
1. The blowby gases are not returned into the manifold. The blowby gases increase crankcase pressure causing oil leaks throught the seals.
2. Residual oil is also not returned to the sump.

Not sure if this will affect the smell of the oil or not but it might. The portion of the blowby that is bad for the crankcase is the fuel (upwards of 70%) in the fuel/oil mix. The fuel in the combustion chamber combines with the oil in the rings to create the fuel/oil mix that blows by the rings during combustion. Who knows?

Everyother car maker gets by with a single vent hose from the crankcase. I cannot figure out why BMW uses 4 separate hoses to accomplish this relatively simple function?
Thanks Fudman, again!
I figured the bad the CCV is the problem and causes for the increased oil consumption and the oil smelling like gas.
I was just a little freaked when I smelled the oil, and it smelled like gas, which in my mind, might mean a blown head gasket.

I will probably have a compression test/ leak down test done anyways.
However, I will also be replacing the oil ASAP, and replacing the CCV during my Christmas break.
It's rare I get time to work on the car.
Usually my wife and kids require ALL of my time.

Thanks!
Jason
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Last edited by Jason5driver; 12-26-2009 at 01:45 AM.
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  #43  
Old 12-25-2009, 10:28 PM
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Crist another thing I have to get done here!? Does it ever end with these cars? Great write-up, pics and info guys. My cars been consuming a bit of oil lately it seems also so guess I'll need to put this on the "to do" list.
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  #44  
Old 12-30-2009, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydrz View Post
I posted the first one on the first page of this thread...

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...+separator+diy
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  #45  
Old 12-31-2009, 04:08 PM
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Well, I replaced my CCV finally...
Let just emphasize..... "finally"...
The job was NOT fun.
The ONE electrical plug infront of the Vanos was especially hard to take off.
The old CCV hoses were a pain to take off as well.
I tried to disconnect the old hose without breaking them, but finally gave in after a LONG time, and broke the things!
I did not have to modify the cold weather CCV.
One key thing to do, that will help take off the old hoses, is to take off the air distribution piece on top of the intake manifold!
That will allow you access to the (2) top hose connections, and let you clean the massive filth under there.

And, I found a easy way to connect the small 'S' hose that connects to the air distribution piece from the CCV.
First, you install the cold weather CCV WITH long hose the goes to the front of the valve cover CONNECTED to the CCV.
Then snake the 'S' hose in.
Turn the S hose back so that it is parallel the ground, which then allows you to twist connect to the CCV.
Turn the S hose up towards the air distribution piece connection.
That will lock in the hose.


Also, when replacing the O-ring on the dip stick, slide the O-ring on the dip stick first, don't push the ring into the oil pan.

Thanks!
Jason
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Last edited by Jason5driver; 01-01-2010 at 08:58 AM.
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  #46  
Old 12-31-2009, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Well, I replaced my CCV finally...
Let just emphasize..... "finally"...
The job was NOT fun.
The ONE electrical plug infront of the Vanos was especially hard to take off.
The old CCV hoses were a pain to take off as well.
I tried to disconnect the old hose with breaking them, but finally gave in after a LONG time, and broke the things!
I did not have modify the cold weather CCV.
One key thing to do, that will help take off the old hoses, is to take off the air distribution piece on top of the intake manifold!
That will allow you access to the (2) top hose connections, and let you clean the massive filth under there.

And, I found a easy way to connect the small 'S' hose that connects to the air distribution piece from the CCV.
First, you install the cold weather CCV WITH long hose the goes to the front of the valve cover CONNECTED to the CCV.
Then snake the 'S' hose in.
Turn the S hose back so that it is parallel the ground, which then allows you to twist connect to the CCV.
Turn the S hose up towards the air distribution piece connection.
That will lock in the hose.


Also, when replacing the O-ring on the dip stick, slide the O-ring on the dip stick first, don't push the ring into the oil pan.

Thanks!
Jason
Yep, that was not a fun job, not at all. I broke all my old hoses as well.
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  #47  
Old 01-01-2010, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydrz View Post
Yep, that was not a fun job, not at all. I broke all my old hoses as well.
I cleaned everything, so it took a LONG time...
However, I noticed my old CCV was still in good shape, and so were most of the hoses.
Plus, I have NO mayo build up any where.
I only found a little bit of yellow crud in the valve cover/CCV hose connection.
No build up in the dip stick either!
All was very clean.
However, I did notice some gritty sand/oil within the intake manifold after I removed the DISA valve...

Thanks!
Jason
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  #48  
Old 01-05-2010, 12:16 PM
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Wish me luck! I'm about to dig into mine. The pressure was enough to blow the valve cover gasket, I'm really hoping it didn't crack the valve cover as well. I hear there is a 50/50 chance of it being cracked.
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  #49  
Old 01-05-2010, 05:10 PM
Financeman Financeman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robw530i View Post
Wish me luck! I'm about to dig into mine. The pressure was enough to blow the valve cover gasket, I'm really hoping it didn't crack the valve cover as well. I hear there is a 50/50 chance of it being cracked.
What were your symptoms immediately before it blew? From time to time I am getting a burnt oil smell, but can not locate the cause. I suspect the CCV but really don't want to dig into the project right now because my garage is not heated. On the other hand, I don't want to risk getting stuck somewhere or damaging the engine.
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  #50  
Old 01-05-2010, 07:42 PM
Robw530i Robw530i is offline
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Well, it started when my temp gauge was being erratic. It's currently in the low teens during the day here(Indiana) and I would let my car warm up for about 5 or 10 min, and as soon as I would take off the heat would get cool and the temp gauge would be pegged. Turning the car off would reset the temp gauge at what I think is correct.....So, I take it into the dealer and they said it needed a software upgrade, so I had them do that and in the process the mechanic found that the thermostat was stuck open and the fan clutch was rattling. They wanted almost $700 to fix it all. So, this morning I make my usual run to Starbucks and while I'm in line I start to smell something burning, so I get my coffee and head home and I get out and pop the hood and smoke is pouring out of my grill. There was oil all over the exhaust. Basically what happens is when the car doesn't get up to temp long enough to burn off the water in the CCV it freezes and therefore causes the pressure build up in the crankcase and then ultimately blows the valve cover gasket....and possibly cracks the valve cover itself.
Lucky for me the parts guy at the BMW dealer here is a good friend and always cuts me a good deal.
So far I have about 4hrs in the removal and replacing of the CCV. It really wasn't that hard, just a little scary getting that deep into an engine I know little about.
Tomorrow I am tackling the thermo and the valve cover gasket, praying to the BMW gods that the valve cover isn't cracked!!!

I am fortunate enough to have an insulated garage and a sweet little propane heater that pumps the temp to around 60 or I would be in a world of hurt.

I read on here something about the copper or aluminum gaskets on the lines that lead to the Vanos leaking. Have you checked around that yet Financeman?
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