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5 Series DIY
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  #26  
Old 07-20-2010, 06:17 AM
dinty44 dinty44 is offline
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Looks like I still have an oil leak. I'll be tearing it all apart again to see where it's coming from. I'm suspecting the RTV perhaps interfered with the gasket or maybe the housing wasn't able to get completely flush with the mounting surface. I did use a torque wrench thankfully. Will post later when I have more answers.
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  #27  
Old 07-20-2010, 07:12 PM
dinty44 dinty44 is offline
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Turns out the oil leak is coming from somewhere else (pan perhaps). The oil filter housing is dry and holding strong. Thanks all for your help!
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  #28  
Old 07-20-2010, 08:43 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Same thing happened to me after the Oil Housing Gasket job.
I left the plastic splash guard out for a week.
Oil leaked for a few days then stop. This is because residual oil from the job drips down slowly.
I spray with "Purple Power" Engine cleaner then gently rinse it with water.
I drove the car up my wood ramps everyday to check for oil leak.
After 1 week it is bone dry.

So don't condemn the oil pan gasket yet (that job is a PITA in the 6-cylinder!!!).
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  #29  
Old 07-21-2010, 08:29 AM
dinty44 dinty44 is offline
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Ironically, I also purple powered my underside last night trying to find the leak. I had a squirt bottle of that, a squirt bottle of water, an old tooth brush, and a scrub brush. The underside of my engine is almost clean enough to eat off. And yes, I also left off the splash guard and will check after I drive it for location of leaks. The oil filter housing looks bone dry from everywhere I can see (thankfully). Didn't feel like tearing into that one again days after I had just completed it.

If it is the oil pan gasket, not sure I'd even bother changing it. Having just spent a fair amount of time under the car over the past week, I don't think I'm up for that one anytime soon.
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  #30  
Old 07-21-2010, 08:34 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinty44 View Post
...If it is the oil pan gasket, not sure I'd even bother changing it. Having just spent a fair amount of time under the car over the past week, I don't think I'm up for that one anytime soon.
Relax,

I went through this and eventually the oil drip is gone.
My oil pan gasket is bone dry.
Leave the splash guard off, check oil stain everyday (car on wood ramps).

The oil pan gasket job is a 8-10h event, so forget about it now. Relax and enjoy the ride.
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  #31  
Old 07-21-2010, 09:14 AM
dinty44 dinty44 is offline
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Agreed. Thanks for all the help.

David
2003 530i - new CCV, Oil filter housing gasket, belts.
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  #32  
Old 10-26-2010, 10:54 AM
JaimeRojas JaimeRojas is offline
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this is great.. I feel very optimistic of this reply. I will follow procedure and respond according to the finding. Thanks again.
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  #33  
Old 10-26-2010, 01:04 PM
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adjmcloon adjmcloon is offline
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I did mine a couple of weekends ago ('99 528it) and so far so good. Go ahead and take the time to replace your power steering hoses as well, and your belts if needed.

It is entirely possible to do this repair without removing the fan or shroud on an i6 car.

I also discovered that one of my hoses to my CCV had come loose, I had replaced it a couple of months back. Next stop, suspension work!
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  #34  
Old 11-17-2010, 10:00 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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It is one year since I wrote this DIY in Nov 2009.

FYI: The "Freeze Plugs" repair using asphalt caulk holds up nicely a year later, bone dry. Absolutely no issues whatsoever.
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  #35  
Old 11-17-2010, 10:41 PM
macgy macgy is offline
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cn90, this DIY write up is great, I have recently completed changing the filter housing gasket of my M54 with no issue at all, took more than 3 days to complete the task & cleaning it but I am enjoying every bit of it as i have never done this before! FYI, i decided to install the rubber gasket without using any RTV gasket maker, torque to 24Nm (just to be sure)
Still have a few drop of oil this morning but as you advise it might be gone in a few weeks time as the area surrounding the filter housing looks clear, hopefully the oil pan gasket is fine.
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  #36  
Old 11-18-2010, 11:41 AM
ccfarmboy ccfarmboy is offline
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cn09, this is a great tutorial, thank you.

This is my very first post, although I have been reading the forums for years. I have a 98 528, 5-speed, with 163K miles. I bought it new and have taken decent care of it. I have had very little non-routine maintenance issues (one wheel bearing, thermostat, and a gasket on the windshield wiper reservoir). I just started noticing some oil on the floor, and I think it is a result of the Oil Filter Housing Gasket, so I very much appreciate your help on this topic.

Out of curiosity, what other problems have you had to deal with on your car. It is my understanding that the Vanos seal issue, is not a problem on the 98's, only 99-2003....Is that correct?
Thanks.
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  #37  
Old 11-18-2010, 12:30 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Not much of a problem, most of the DIYs I wrote for for preventive measures.

I just send you a PM re the list for 1998 528i.

Last edited by cn90; 11-18-2010 at 12:32 PM.
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  #38  
Old 11-18-2010, 12:37 PM
emPoWaH emPoWaH is offline
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How timely. My mother reported an awful smell from her 2000 528i, and our indy technician determined it was the oil filter gasket. She took it in yesterday, and for $450, got a new gasket, new filter, new alternator and A/C belts, new pully, and new breather hose. Apparently those are all located in the same area, so you might as well replace them.
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  #39  
Old 11-28-2010, 11:22 PM
Westlotorn Westlotorn is offline
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Another Thanks to you for the help with this Oil Leak. My 2002 530i suddenly started using a quart of oil every 1000 to 1500 miles but I never have a leak in my garage or on the driveway. Had me stymied. I read this thread and searched the area in my engine.
This is it. I have it apart right now and I am doing all the Cooling system maintenance at the same time. FYI, the 2002 530i engine oil filter housing has threaded screw in plugs and not the press in freeze plugs. One less worry. My oil housing gasket was cooked and rock hard at only 75,000 miles.
Glad to find this leak. I am replacing the oil filter O rings also. This car has always had a rattle on start up. When I opened the Housing to remove the oil filter after this car had been sitting in my garage for several days the Oil filter was dry, no stored oil. I saw the oil drainback valve in the housing but I don't know if that is the cause of the oil drain back or if it is the two small O Rings at the base of the Housing Top below the filter. The 2 small O rings were rock hard when I removed them so I am pretty sure they were not sealing. It seems to me these two O rings should be replaced with every Oil change. Again these are the two small approx. 3/8" O rings not the large 3" O ring on the screw in top. Thanks again for the tips, they saved a lot of time.
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  #40  
Old 11-29-2010, 05:40 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westlotorn View Post
...Glad to find this leak. I am replacing the oil filter O rings also. This car has always had a rattle on start up. When I opened the Housing to remove the oil filter after this car had been sitting in my garage for several days the Oil filter was dry, no stored oil. I saw the oil drainback valve in the housing but I don't know if that is the cause of the oil drain back or if it is the two small O Rings at the base of the Housing Top below the filter. The 2 small O rings were rock hard when I removed them so I am pretty sure they were not sealing. It seems to me these two O rings should be replaced with every Oil change. Again these are the two small approx. 3/8" O rings not the large 3" O ring on the screw in top. Thanks again for the tips, they saved a lot of time.
There are 2 ways oil can drain back down the sump:
- Via the 2 tiny O-rings during a typical oil change.
- Via the anti-drain device in the back of the OFH.

The 2 tiny O-rings on the Oil Filter Cap: Yes they prevent oil from draining down the sump. And that is their sole purpose during oil change.

The 1-way valve in the back of the OFH prevents oil from draining down the sump between engine starts.
One way to test your anti-drain valve (best to do this when oil is at Min level):
- If you can make a plugging device using the same tiny O-rings to plug the center hole, it'd be great.
- Remove the OFH Cap
- You will oil draining down via the center hole (where the 2 tiny O-rings block it)
- Plug the center hole and pour in 1/2 qt of oil. There should not be any drainage at all.
If there is drainage, then oil is draining down the sump.

---> At startup, do you have your engine oil pressure light flickering for 2-3 second?


Re: how often do you change the Tiny O-rings was discussed here.
Personally, I think these tiny O-rings should be changed every 30-40K miles.
At 90K, my oil filter housing Cap (the black plastic cap) cracked, so I got another cap from the dealer for $26 and of course the Tiny O-rings came with it.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=411800

Last edited by cn90; 11-29-2010 at 05:42 AM.
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  #41  
Old 11-29-2010, 11:23 PM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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What are the torque values for the 6 bolts on the oil filter housing? I just did mine and I'm getting leaking. Since I did an oil change, the oil is very clean looking so I'm thinking I didn't torque the housing in very well and it is indeed leaking.
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  #42  
Old 11-30-2010, 02:20 AM
Westlotorn Westlotorn is offline
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The Bolts are small so I think we are talking about inch pounds on this. I can look it up later and post. More important would be your method of torquing this housing. Bring all the bolts down evenly till all are touching the housing but no torque applied.
Look carefully to make sure your housing is evenly seated. Gap should be the same top and bottom and side to side. Bring it up very slowly turning bolts one at a time but limit to no more than one turn per bolt before moving on. Chris cross in a pattern to slowly bring this up tight.
If you tighten one bolt before moving on to the next you risk breaking the housing due to binding or your gasket can squease out and your chance of getting zero leaks is very low. I would follow the following pattern but I have not yet checked my manual.

1 3
6 5
4 2
Using a pattern like this should bring it down evenly and avoid Stress on the Oil Filter Housing. Again I stress, bring it up evenly or you will cause problems. If your eye see's one corner is out more than others stop and re address. You can always loosen the other bolts and start over.
Dirty threads can make you think a bolt is tightening when in reality you are just fighting the dirty threads. Always clean and Oil the threads to get uniform torque and the best result. If bolts are known to enter the water jacket substitute a thread sealer for the oil.
When it is down and evenly seated use your torque wrench to finish up. Even at the torque wrench application you are better off is you tighten in the pattern and do it in 3 steps. IF proper torque is 35 you can start with one lap at 15, one at 25 and the final torque to 35. This avoids stressing the aluminum housing and avoids the potential for breaking it or getting gasket leaks. This type gasket installs best clean with no silicone added. Use a very light coat of oil to help it slide and seat while you torque it. IF it sticks it will stretch and distort. These are very easy to install gaskets and pretty much a no brainer leak free seal until they get old and harden. The top left bolt has a dowel hole locating pin, I suspect you will need to work this bolt carefully as it will try and bind as you torque this housing. Again keep it even or you will fracture the housing. In years past I have made this mistake and had to pay for it. I hope you avoid it and get a trouble free, leak free installation.
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  #43  
Old 11-30-2010, 02:24 AM
Westlotorn Westlotorn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
There are 2 ways oil can drain back down the sump:
- Via the 2 tiny O-rings during a typical oil change.
- Via the anti-drain device in the back of the OFH.

The 2 tiny O-rings on the Oil Filter Cap: Yes they prevent oil from draining down the sump. And that is their sole purpose during oil change.

The 1-way valve in the back of the OFH prevents oil from draining down the sump between engine starts.
One way to test your anti-drain valve (best to do this when oil is at Min level):
- If you can make a plugging device using the same tiny O-rings to plug the center hole, it'd be great.
- Remove the OFH Cap
- You will oil draining down via the center hole (where the 2 tiny O-rings block it)
- Plug the center hole and pour in 1/2 qt of oil. There should not be any drainage at all.
If there is drainage, then oil is draining down the sump.

---> At startup, do you have your engine oil pressure light flickering for 2-3 second?


Re: how often do you change the Tiny O-rings was discussed here.
Personally, I think these tiny O-rings should be changed every 30-40K miles.
At 90K, my oil filter housing Cap (the black plastic cap) cracked, so I got another cap from the dealer for $26 and of course the Tiny O-rings came with it.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=411800
Thank you very much for this advice. My 2 filter O rings are now new. I cleaned the Drainback valve as best I could but it is sealed and I was not able to take it apart.

When I opened my filter the filter body was empty of oil after parking for a week so I know I have a leak in this unit.
I have never noticed the Oil Light flash on start up but I will look in the future.
I will test the drain before completing the assembly.
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  #44  
Old 11-30-2010, 02:36 AM
Westlotorn Westlotorn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
There are 2 ways oil can drain back down the sump:
- Via the 2 tiny O-rings during a typical oil change.
- Via the anti-drain device in the back of the OFH.

The 2 tiny O-rings on the Oil Filter Cap: Yes they prevent oil from draining down the sump. And that is their sole purpose during oil change.

The 1-way valve in the back of the OFH prevents oil from draining down the sump between engine starts.
One way to test your anti-drain valve (best to do this when oil is at Min level):
- If you can make a plugging device using the same tiny O-rings to plug the center hole, it'd be great.
- Remove the OFH Cap
- You will oil draining down via the center hole (where the 2 tiny O-rings block it)
- Plug the center hole and pour in 1/2 qt of oil. There should not be any drainage at all.
If there is drainage, then oil is draining down the sump.

---> At startup, do you have your engine oil pressure light flickering for 2-3 second?


Re: how often do you change the Tiny O-rings was discussed here.
Personally, I think these tiny O-rings should be changed every 30-40K miles.
At 90K, my oil filter housing Cap (the black plastic cap) cracked, so I got another cap from the dealer for $26 and of course the Tiny O-rings came with it.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=411800
Thank you very much for this advice. My 2 filter O rings are now new. I cleaned the Drainback valve as best I could but it is sealed and I was not able to take it apart.

When I opened my filter the filter body was empty of oil after parking for a week so I know I have a leak in this unit.
I have never noticed the Oil Light flash on start up but I will look in the future.
I will test the drain before completing the assembly.
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  #45  
Old 11-30-2010, 09:32 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ågent99 View Post
What are the torque values for the 6 bolts on the oil filter housing? I just did mine and I'm getting leaking. Since I did an oil change, the oil is very clean looking so I'm thinking I didn't torque the housing in very well and it is indeed leaking.
The torque values are listed in the first thread.
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  #46  
Old 12-12-2010, 03:48 PM
BMWBreakMyWindo BMWBreakMyWindo is offline
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Question Oil filter housing in parts cleaner?

What do you guys thing about putting the oil filter housing into a parts cleaner before reassembling it onto the engine? I'm talking about a regular automotive parts cleaner in a shop that you clean transmission cases in.
There isn't any parts that can be damaged from the heat is there?
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  #47  
Old 12-13-2010, 02:04 PM
Westlotorn Westlotorn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWBreakMyWindo View Post
What do you guys thing about putting the oil filter housing into a parts cleaner before reassembling it onto the engine? I'm talking about a regular automotive parts cleaner in a shop that you clean transmission cases in.
There isn't any parts that can be damaged from the heat is there?
The oil drainback valve would suffer and I could not see a way to take this apart and change it.

Mine cleaned right up with about 15 minutes of effort.
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  #48  
Old 12-15-2010, 09:19 AM
Mikeb123 Mikeb123 is offline
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Oil leak on 2002 - 530i

Thank you for this valuable information I've been trying to find this oil leak for months and you pinpointed exactly. The gasket between the oil housing and engine block was shot very difficult to see until you remove the parts suggested. It would appear BMW changed the assembly slightly as I didnt have to repair the two casting plugs, they were already upgraded with two thread fittings. Ive also had to change the valve cover gasket and lower vanos valve which were also leaking in last year.
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  #49  
Old 12-15-2010, 12:41 PM
coronet24 coronet24 is offline
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Smile Hi

Dear all,

I found a noticeable information on this forum, so I decided to register myself, too.
I'm living in Switzerland, Europe and I drive a 1997 BMW 528i E39. Since I bought it I expected an oil leakage. I was twice to the BMW Garage, but they never fix it. Now with a friend of mine we're fixing it exactly like shown here. I hope that I can enjoy my car without any oil leakage in the future. My BMW has 320'000 km and the engine run very well after I fix the VANOS problem (I changed the O-Ring, the Camshaft & Crankshaft Sensor).

Thank you all for the helpful informations!

Coronet24

Last edited by coronet24; 12-15-2010 at 12:48 PM.
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  #50  
Old 01-02-2011, 08:01 PM
astonmartini03 astonmartini03 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2005 330Ci ZHP
I started getting a vibration from the engine that I didn't get before I replaced the gasket. I know it's from the engine because revving it in neutral makes the vibration stronger and with high frequency.

I double checked to make sure I tightened all the bolts. The idler and tensioner pulley are brand new. The idler pulley is lined up properly.

Any ideas? I'm stumped.
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