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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-04-2012, 02:30 PM
glarior glarior is offline
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Flexable trim glue?

2000 328ci.... the trim that goes between the door and interior from the dash, up and over the front door and down behind the seats. It has come off. It has been glued twice but the heat in Texas just makes it come down again. Suggestions on what I can use to keep it up?
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2012, 05:14 PM
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Commonly known as "Falling Mouse Fur", that sh!t has been plagueing coupe owners for 10 years, and AFAIK, no one has found the magic cure. Just about everything you can think of has been tried....
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2012, 09:41 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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peel off as much glue as is practical and use some sort of 3M trim glue to reinstall.
repeat as needed as it will fall again.
Phoenix kills me!
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2012, 05:21 AM
SPDSKTR SPDSKTR is offline
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Has anyone tried epoxy putty? Roll thin strips of it out and place every so often. I think it just might work.

I need to replace mine as well... it's stained, beginning to come undone, and just looks gross.
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  #5  
Old 09-05-2012, 09:09 AM
glarior glarior is offline
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Wow! Well, guess I will go with 3m and see how that does.

For such an expensive car in 2000's these e46s had some major issues with them.
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2012, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glarior View Post
For such an expensive car in 2000's these e46s had some major issues with them.
This holds true for the *entire* BMW product line, not just for E46s....
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  #7  
Old 09-05-2012, 10:40 AM
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cwsqbm cwsqbm is offline
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The way I view it, BMW put all their effort into the engines and suspension. It makes the car incredible to drive, but certain things are sub-par in quality.
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  #8  
Old 09-05-2012, 11:32 AM
yetieater yetieater is offline
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I used Loctite's spray adhesive after hearing some negative things about longevity of 3M Super 77.
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  #9  
Old 09-05-2012, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yetieater View Post
I used Loctite's spray adhesive after hearing some negative things about longevity of 3M Super 77.
Unless you have a coupe, we`re not talking about the same thing....the "Mouse Fur Problem" does not occur in sedans....
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  #10  
Old 09-05-2012, 08:28 PM
yetieater yetieater is offline
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Oh. I read the OP's description and thought that we were talking about the fabric on the pillars. Thanks for catching that
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  #11  
Old 09-05-2012, 08:32 PM
bion bion is offline
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If you are talking about the door seal. you should be able to pull it down, then squeeze the two sides together in you hand to close up the gap. then push it back on. really does not glue on just friction fit
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  #12  
Old 09-05-2012, 09:04 PM
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bmw330ci04 bmw330ci04 is offline
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anyone ever tried gorilla glue? it could work, just dont plan on getting it off anytime soon
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  #13  
Old 09-06-2012, 10:16 AM
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Fast Bob Fast Bob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw330ci04 View Post
anyone ever tried gorilla glue? it could work, just dont plan on getting it off anytime soon
This is the wrong application for Gorilla Glue....that stuff expands as it cures (much like that insulating foam-in-a-can), and is not really suitable for something where cosmetics is important.
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  #14  
Old 09-06-2012, 10:51 AM
rdorman rdorman is offline
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+1 on 3M trim adhesive
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  #15  
Old 09-06-2012, 12:27 PM
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+1 on 3M trim adhesive
Works temporarily, but like everything else, it falls off again after a while. As I`ve explained many times in the past, the base rubber which the Mouse Fur is glued to has a Teflon-like quality to it (I believe it was the release agent used in the molds for those rubber parts), and it just resists long-term adhesion. I`ve tried sanding the rubber`s surface with 80-grit emery paper before gluing the trim back on, but that only lasted a few months too.
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  #16  
Old 09-10-2012, 02:43 PM
glarior glarior is offline
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Wow that sucks!

I will give it a try. Rather have it last for a while vs hang down like it is now.
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  #17  
Old 09-10-2012, 05:08 PM
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Bob Shiftright Bob Shiftright is offline
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Volvo's butyl putty tape? They've been holding Volvos together with this stuff since the end of the last ice age.

PN is 1161782

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...hlight=1161782
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  #18  
Old 09-10-2012, 05:43 PM
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Fast Bob Fast Bob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Majikthese42 View Post
Volvo's butyl putty tape? They've been holding Volvos together with this stuff since the end of the last ice age.

PN is 1161782

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...hlight=1161782
That would definitely be worth a shot....there`s gotta be *something* out there that`s compatible with that slippery base rubber....
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  #19  
Old 09-11-2012, 12:10 PM
Fishful Thinking Fishful Thinking is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
Works temporarily, but like everything else, it falls off again after a while. As I`ve explained many times in the past, the base rubber which the Mouse Fur is glued to has a Teflon-like quality to it (I believe it was the release agent used in the molds for those rubber parts), and it just resists long-term adhesion. I`ve tried sanding the rubber`s surface with 80-grit emery paper before gluing the trim back on, but that only lasted a few months too.
Bob, did you wipe/scrub the surface with any solvents to remove the mold release? I would think acetone would be a good start.

I'm going to try sanding, cleaning with solvent, then two thin coats of contact cement (polyadhesive). Stay tuned.
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  #20  
Old 09-11-2012, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishful Thinking View Post
Bob, did you wipe/scrub the surface with any solvents to remove the mold release? I would think acetone would be a good start.

I'm going to try sanding, cleaning with solvent, then two thin coats of contact cement (polyadhesive). Stay tuned.
Yah Mon.....done all of the above....If you closely examine the rubber itself, you can see that the Teflon-like quality is part of the rubber`s DNA, it`s not just a surface coating....

Have a fresh roll of blue painter`s tape on hand to use as a "clamp" on the trim. Good luck !
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  #21  
Old 09-11-2012, 10:24 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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And what about the price of a new trim piece that BMW will charge you? Yeoow!

Sanded, solvent, double-coated--------all gonna fail. It's a wear item in effect.

I get mine to last two years or more, and I'm not selling my car, bottom line.
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  #22  
Old 09-12-2012, 10:14 AM
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And what about the price of a new trim piece that BMW will charge you? Yeoow!.
Yeah, no sh!tskies....the price they charge is SO ridiculous, they should be ashamed....
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  #23  
Old 09-12-2012, 11:25 AM
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woody underwood woody underwood is offline
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I used Gorilla glue and it worked...3 years now and still tight. Just be sure and anchor everything for 24 hours with duct tape.
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  #24  
Old 09-12-2012, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by woody underwood View Post
I used Gorilla glue and it worked...3 years now and still tight. Just be sure and anchor everything for 24 hours with duct tape.
Gorilla glue expands after contact, and requires very careful application to prevent a real mess afterwards....
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  #25  
Old 09-12-2012, 01:06 PM
Fishful Thinking Fishful Thinking is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
Yeah, no sh!tskies....the price they charge is SO ridiculous, they should be ashamed....
A'ight, here's a fair question: What do these trim pieces actually cost? My first set lasted from 9/03 to just a couple of months ago, so if I can get another 9 years out of a set, a few bucks might be worth spending just to save the sanity.
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