Wow! Angel eyes gone modern... full report no bs

The kit ? The current H8 8000k HID KID I am using is this name brand. http://www.o-nex.com/h8.html
But instead of using the previous thicker ballasts. He put in the very thin one instead.

He will try put the same kit for the Angel Eye. Same 8000k bulb.

Can you comment on heat output on the fogs?

Also, what balast did he use, do you remember? Just curious if the rating was the same in terms of power output etc. Maybe you can see if there is a name visible on the outside.

I can't recall what ballast he used, but it saids made in Japan.
As for the heat output, I dont know what to tell you. For sure it will be as hot as those GPthunder bulbs we use. But so far it didn't burn anything. I used the same 8000k HID Kit on my Mercedes E63 AMG on the FOG, it looks amazing and nothing got burned.
I don't think that will be a problem with heat though.

http://www.hidgeeks.com/H8-HID-CONVE...n-Kit-p33.html

Note the size of the smaller ballast. And, the size of the bulb is just gigantic--wonder if it will fit in the lens area.

Did you "STEP-UP" the wattage on your fogs from 35 watts to something else (55+)?

Bill, that is the exact bulb style I have on my Fog. I took some pictures, once I get home later today I will post it on the forum. And I have the thin ballasts on both of my fogs.
You also need the error canceller, resister...harness...etc The whole complete kit.

This is the the similar one on mine, but make sure you need two on each side. And it has to be 32watts , don't get the 16volts one cause bulb flickering.



Since the fog I have is using 8000k bulb. Blueish white. Super bright.
It makes my low beam like yellow now lol. I need to change the stock low bean bulb to 8000k D1s to match the fog.

Also the damn china made LED bulb arrived. I will need to test that on my Angel eye and see if it works hahahaha, probably very crappy.

Originally Posted by BMR2009

http://www.hidgeeks.com/H8-HID-CONVE...n-Kit-p33.html

Note the size of the smaller ballast. And, the size of the bulb is just gigantic--wonder if it will fit in the lens area.

Did you "STEP-UP" the wattage on your fogs from 35 watts to something else (55+)?

Why would you need two on each side? There's only one bulb.

Yeah, I feel your pain on the LED's. Just toss them aside for another car--they are VERY common bulbs. They generate very little heat so can go just about anywhere. They sure look cool though.

Come back and let us know how your's work out.

This is the tricky part. We tried it using one with lower voltage like 16v or something. But it didn't work, it lights up then started flickering like a cop car. Today we spent like 30 minutes there and scratching our head like what is going on, cause I had the same setup on my 2008 Mercedes E63 AMG, it was all fine. I guess our new BMW is little different.

So we tested it with single one, not working, double it with 9-16V not working either. (I might be wrong, It could be from 9-12v, I dont have the pic with me, so I was just guessing).

Anyways. That didn't work also.

The final steps we tried was using two higher voltage error canceller on each side (9-36v) , that solved the problem instantly. I am a happy man now hahahahaha.

Bill, I guarantee you will like it. It looks so freaking awesome.

Originally Posted by BMR2009

Why would you need two on each side? There's only one bulb.

Yeah, I feel your pain on the LED's. Just toss them aside for another car--they are VERY common bulbs. They generate very little heat so can go just about anywhere. They sure look cool though.

Come back and let us know how your's work out.

Sounds like a lot of trial and error. Finding the right voltage variance seems to be the key, apparently.

Please post the exact product and the specifics of the voltage and amperage if possible. It should be on the labels. This will allow us to determine the acceptable ranges so we can consider other products of like variances.

Can you do this for us?

Oh, and the photos too please.

I would love to know what's in those error cancellers. Possibly a circuit controlling the voltage; some resistors possibly. I want to know what the guts of those things are. Can your guy tell us?

Also, voltage is important as it is the amount of power that is going through the wire and lighting the lamp, but more importantly is the amperage--the current that is flowing through the wire that creates the heat and damage if the wires are too small. The more voltage necessary to illuminate a bulb, usually requires more amperage as more current is needed to reach the bulb to get the brightness. Wire integrity becomes a concern. Please let me know if your wires are hot.

It's unbelievable you have to put all that sht on there to get it to work.

Yes Bill, lots of ****s to make it to work but well worth it.

Here is the details.

1. This pic shows that the error canceller was using 9-16v (one single one). Which didn't work at all, HID flickering.


2. This is a Japanese Made thin ballasts, i got that on both side.


3. Lots of going on hehehehe


4. Closer look


5. Operation on both side Testing.


6. Pay attention to this one. We removed the old 9-16V one and put two of this new 9-36V error canceller.


7. Two 9-36V error canceller


8. Result !
( I don't think my small camera got a good pic on this but if you look at the car in person. Man, you will love the color. ) I am going to do the low beam 8000k to match the fog. It will be bad ass.


9. You can see that stupid GPthunder Angel Eye. hahahaha
Once I turn on the Fog, that Angel Eye looks yellowish to me. Horrible. I think the only way to match that color is using HIDs on the Angel Eye.

Originally Posted by BMR2009

I would love to know what's in those error cancellers. Possibly a circuit controlling the voltage; some resistors possibly. I want to know what the guts of those things are. Can your guy tell us?

Also, voltage is important as it is the amount of power that is going through the wire and lighting the lamp, but more importantly is the amperage--the current that is flowing through the wire that creates the heat and damage if the wires are too small. The more voltage necessary to illuminate a bulb, usually requires more amperage as more current is needed to reach the bulb to get the brightness. Wire integrity becomes a concern. Please let me know if your wires are hot.

It's unbelievable you have to put all that sht on there to get it to work.

Thanks for posting.

I want to add a few comments:

1. The Error Cancellers are actually resistors, from what I can determine on-line. They reduce the pulsing in voltage (it can, however, be seen through a camera or video). I would also surmise that these contain capacitors that hold and release the charge in a controlled state and then the resistors to smooth the voltage. I'm not an engineer but this is my guess without having one to take apart.

2. The 8,000 Kelvin is a more blue than white bulb. The 6,000 Kelvin is a more white than blue. Without seeing them side by side it is hard to determine how they would look compared to the low beams.

3. I do NOT beleive this system will work for the halo, however. The halo system, and the low beam, is a sealed mechanism (the whole unit is contained, then sealed with plastic screw doors and a rubber seal). The ballast and/or canceller will NOT fit within the unit. Therefore, you would be forced to mount the ballast and canceller outside of the unit and run the cable inside, violating the integrity of the unit's purpose; to isolate it from the outside. If you remove the door to the low beam, there are exposed contacts and wires that will certainly short out if they come into contact with moisture. I will look at this area again, but am convinced this is a problem for "after market" modifications including an exterior ballast mount.

4. You CAN change the "temperature" or color of your lights by changing the bulbs. You are not married to a particular color/temperature. Measuring temperature is a derivative of spectrocity, assigning color to heat. We do this when investigating other planets and stars; the light that is reflected can be measured, split and assigned a temperature. This is how we determine the temperatures and composition of other planets. So, when looking at lamps for your car, know you're dealing with color assignment, not heat generation.

However, the ballast is an "ignitor" and a power supply (stepped-up) for the bulb. So it DOES generate more heat than stock bulbs, I do not know to what extent without taking measurements with a infrared thermometer. I will do this if I install the ballasts, which is likely.

My real objective, though, is to improve the "angel eyes" performance on the 7. There is no doubt this will work for the angel eyes, I question the means in which to maintain the integrity of the sealed area that contains both the low/high and angel eye bulb area.

I will post my pics later today detailing the area.

Great write-up and pics. If you have a better pic of the label on the ignitor with the amps and voltage conversions, I'd love to see it.

NO ONE CAN ARGUE WITH THOSE RESULTS.

COLOR SCHEME (in general). Strangely, they vary from seller to seller so beware and choose carefully. I blame this on lack of real scientific measurement in the assignment of color--probably an eyeballing routine in South Korea or China. Just spend time really evaluating your choice, per manufacturer.

BEWARE: there are LEGAL limits to colors you may use in your municipality, I can assure you. Going too blue or red/pink will get you a citation by your local police department. Highway Patrol are generally less tolerant of colored lights so temper your choice accordingly.

Yea the 8000k
Is little blueish than 6000k, but I just love that 8000k color myself.
The stock low beam I believe is less than 6000k

Can you tell me how to access the low beam area?
Seems like I can't do it through the top.
Might need to access from the side or under the car?




QUOTE=BMR2009;5458511]Thanks for posting.

I want to add a few comments:

1. The Error Cancellers are actually resistors, from what I can determine on-line. They reduce the pulsing in voltage (it can, however, be seen through a camera or video). I would also surmise that these contain capacitors that hold and release the charge in a controlled state and then the resistors to smooth the voltage. I'm not an engineer but this is my guess without having one to take apart.

2. The 8,000 Kelvin is a more blue than white bulb. The 6,000 Kelvin is a more white than blue. Without seeing them side by side it is hard to determine how they would look compared to the low beams.

3. I do NOT beleive this system will work for the halo, however. The halo system, and the low beam, is a sealed mechanism (the whole unit is contained, then sealed with plastic screw doors and a rubber seal). The ballast and/or canceller will NOT fit within the unit. Therefore, you would be forced to mount the ballast and canceller outside of the unit and run the cable inside, violating the integrity of the unit's purpose; to isolate it from the outside. If you remove the door to the low beam, there are exposed contacts and wires that will certainly short out if they come into contact with moisture. I will look at this area again, but am convinced this is a problem for "after market" modifications including an exterior ballast mount.

4. You CAN change the "temperature" or color of your lights by changing the bulbs. You are not married to a particular color/temperature. Measuring temperature is a derivative of spectrocity, assigning color to heat. We do this when investigating other planets and stars; the light that is reflected can be measured, split and assigned a temperature. This is how we determine the temperatures and composition of other planets. So, when looking at lamps for your car, know you're dealing with color assignment, not heat generation.

However, the ballast is an "ignitor" and a power supply (stepped-up) for the bulb. So it DOES generate more heat than stock bulbs, I do not know to what extent without taking measurements with a infrared thermometer. I will do this if I install the ballasts, which is likely.

My real objective, though, is to improve the "angel eyes" performance on the 7. There is no doubt this will work for the angel eyes, I question the means in which to maintain the integrity of the sealed area that contains both the low/high and angel eye bulb area.

I will post my pics later today detailing the area.

Great write-up and pics. If you have a better pic of the label on the ignitor with the amps and voltage conversions, I'd love to see it.

NO ONE CAN ARGUE WITH THOSE RESULTS.[/QUOTE]

Wow this is a great write up Mbworldz!
I just got a pair of GP Thunders like you guys for the girl's 750 and I think it looks great for 22 bucks.

4700 Picofarads, 35 volts, cross wired. Seems to work for another vehicle to prevent flickering.

More than likely putting two on per light can be accomplished with one, if the capacitors are matched to the demands of the unit.

I'm pretty confident 4500-5000pf can get the job done.

Which GP Thunder did you get ? The regular h8 bulb?

I think you will like the LED better cause it is more bright white.

Left (passenger side) is GP Thunder, Right (driver side) is LED.


I am going to order another pair of LED bulb, lets hope it will fit the socket perfectly and give both Angel Eyes a better look.

Originally Posted by derrick_lui

Wow this is a great write up Mbworldz!
I just got a pair of GP Thunders like you guys for the girl's 750 and I think it looks great for 22 bucks.

Bill, since I am no expert on this. You will need to try it and see if it works.

It will be awesome if you can only use one. Cause the one I have in the car is little big as you can see it from the picture. Thanks god it has more room behind the fog light, so I can hide them lol.

Did you see my other post? Can you tell me how to get access to the low beam. From the top or I need to take off the front wheel and remove the plastic under the hood ?

Originally Posted by BMR2009

4700 Picofarads, 35 volts, cross wired. Seems to work for another vehicle to prevent flickering.

More than likely putting two on per light can be accomplished with one, if the capacitors are matched to the demands of the unit.

I'm pretty confident 4500-5000pf can get the job done.

The first circular, screw cap is the low beam/high. So, you can change the color/temperature to match your 8000 Kelvin. I would like to see that.

I'm willing to wager that the capacitors you put in are rated in the 2000 Picofarad range, but the right voltage. Voltage will pass through, but the current could be modified. That's why two make it work.

Bill I am using your pic as example. When you said the first Circular, did you mean this one in red arrow I am pointing.
I already got the 8000K D1S bulb. Once I locate the low beam area, I will change it and show you guys.



If I had to do HID, yes it won't fit the ballast. I will have to mount the ballast somewhere along the side or do some modifications.

Are you planning to do your HID fog also? My friend said BMW don't like people modify their stuffs, so each year they are trying to do something.
Just like the video in motion. For the previous bmw, you can get the module to bypass that, but not in the 2011 model. Hope someone have it soon.

Originally Posted by BMR2009

The first circular, screw cap is the low beam/high. So, you can change the color/temperature to match your 8000 Kelvin. I would like to see that.

Yeah, that is so BMW. Bastrds.

Hang on while I run and check on it...

I am unable to provide information on the low/high beam bulb. It is blocked in all manuals in terms of accessing the area. I would not be surprised to see access gained from the wheels well. The igniter/ballast is mounted against the headlight assembly and can be easily seen when looking at the two circular doors.

I do not have a jack stand to lift the car or I'd attempt to access the hi/lo area as it appears to be directly behind the light (wheel well area). If you do access it, be extremely careful as capacitors DO REMAIN CHARGED and can discharge on you while removing the bulb, possibly. Do no play around. Be sure you are insulated from the ground without touching any metal on the car. This can be very dangerous.

Oooooh. Look what I found on our own site:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ght=flickering

I have an email out to the guy about going with 10,000 PF (uf) and 25 volts. I'll come back. I probably wouldn't have taped the capacitor vertically, but horizontally. Otherwise, he nailed it. Sure it's on another model, but we're on the same path.

Which one is the The igniter/ballast ? The first circular door close to the head light ?
What is that bulb for?

I would like to change that yellow color to White as well. You know how to get access to it ?

Originally Posted by BMR2009

I am unable to provide information on the low/high beam bulb. It is blocked in all manuals in terms of accessing the area. I would not be surprised to see access gained from the wheels well. The igniter/ballast is mounted against the headlight assembly and can be easily seen when looking at the two circular doors.

I do not have a jack stand to lift the car or I'd attempt to access the hi/lo area as it appears to be directly behind the light (wheel well area). If you do access it, be extremely careful as capacitors DO REMAIN CHARGED and can discharge on you while removing the bulb, possibly. Do no play around. Be sure you are insulated from the ground without touching any metal on the car. This can be very dangerous.

changing our incandescent yellow angel eyes to white should be of equal brightness,,,otherwise in my case where its sunny 365days a year.....dimmer whiter angel eyes would get washed out in the sun.