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  #1  
Old 10-18-2014, 12:51 PM
Knight's Master Tech Knight's Master Tech is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 745i
N62/E65/E66 Valve Stem Seals Replacement, Valve Cover and Timing Chain Case Gasket

After noticing white/bluish smoke coming from the tale pipe and further reading up on the diagnoses is that the Valve Stems Seals had to be replaced. My check engine light was on and read code p0492 (secondary air Fault bank 2). I already replaced the emission control valve a few months ago and the check engine light came back on. Purchased both the AGA Valve Stem Seal tool and AGA Secondary Air Cleaner Kit to complete these tasks. I will do my best to example in detail all necessary steps to complete. TO COMPLETE ALL WHAT IM ABOUT TO SHOW YOU WILL COST TWO ARMS, YOUR FRIST AND LAST BORN AND YOU'RE LEGS.
DEALER COST:
-VALVE STEM SEALS 8-12K
-SECONDARY AIR SYSTEM CLEANING 6K
-NOT TO MENTION EVERYTHING ELSE BELOW.

I will also replace the Valve Cover Gasket, Timing Cover Gasket, Engine/Cabin Air Filters and a host of O-Rings that is listed in details.

For this E65/E66/N62 DIY job
-Valve Stem Oil Seals: 11340029751 Qty: 2 (16 in a pack)
-Valve Cover Gaskets (Cyl. 1-4):
-Valve Cover Gaskets (Cyl. 5-8):
-Engine Timing Chain Case Gasket: 11147506424 - Qty: 1
-Engine Timing Chain Case Gasket: 11147506425 - Qty: 1
-Vanos Solenoid O-Ring: 11367513222 - Qty: 4
-Brake Vacuum Pump O-Ring:
-Eccentric Shaft Actuator Seal: 07119903596 - Qty: 2
-Eccentric Shaft Sensor Seal: 11127518420 - Qty: 2
-Valve Cover Grommet: 11127511582 - Qty: 4 (optional)
-Cam Sensor O-Ring: 12141748398 - Qty: 4
-Engine Air Filter: C301531 - Qty: 1
-Cabin Air Filter (Activated Charcoal): CUK31242 - Qty: 1
-Spark Plug Tube: 112757021

Difficulty level 1-10: 9 -- because of so much that have to be removed and all the sensitive sensors that could be broken while removing and installing. It took me three days due to getting use to the tools that I had to use.

TIP: REMOVE THE HOOD STRUATES TO ALOW remove the hood striates to allow more room to work

1. Remove the hood struts for more room. (Optional)(A hood rod would be very useful)
2. Remove the two Black Panels and the engine cover
3. Remove the air filter box (for more room), intake assembly and the spark plugs covers.
4. Remove cabin filter box off
5. Remove the weather strip and the four bolts alone with two more torque screws underneath (T30) that hold the firewall bracket in.
6. Remove the air ducks for the cabin filters (T20). Tip: remember how to remove the "X CLAMP" so u want have a problem reassembling it back together.
7. Remove the E-Box cover Allen Wrench (5mm) pull it up. With the wire harness I just wiggled it up slightly out the way and gave myself room.
BANK 1: CLY. 1-4
8. Remove the Cam Sensors and Eccentric Shaft Sensor (T25 torx) connectors and screws. (Remove the connectors by squeezing the side tabs and pulling upwards. Eccentric shaft sensor connector pulls straight up.)(Replacement O-rings and sensor seals is listed up top)
9. Remove ignition coils by lifting up the tab and remove the sensor. Ignition coils 2, 4 and 8 were the hardest to remove. #2 has to get pass the ABS system and 8 and big screw on the firewall in back. A pull/twist helps to remove.
10. Remove the wire harness that's clipped to the valve cover by prying in-between with a screwdriver. Move it over as much as possible.
11. Remove the servomotor (Actuator) connection and four screws (Allen 4mm)(replace O-ring). Unscrew it out and when reassembling screw it back in. righty tighty lefty loosey! IMPORTANT: It requires you to initialize the servomotors but when u install it back turn the car on without starting it for 20s to relearn.
12. Remove the servomotor spacer, which has four screws (T25 torx). Just pull up and replace the O-ring around it, which comes in the valve cover gasket kit.
13. Remove the crankcase hose. VERY IMPORTANT: Hose might be brittle and fall apart in your hand. And those hose cost about $150 give of take.
14. For more room remove the two screws (T25 torx) from the antifreeze reservoir and just slide it over. (Makes it little easier to remove the valve cover.
15. Removing valve cover thirteen 10mm bolts. The screw in the back might be a little difficult to reach but it could be done. VERY IMPORTANT: when removing and installing the valve cover is very careful not to break the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. When installing the valve covers be patient and very careful. It is a very difficult task. IMPORTANT: after removing all screws from valve cover, make sure the Grommet stay in place until
removal. You wouldn't want broken parts from those falling into your oil system. IMPORTANT: When reinstalling the valve cover gaskets make sure you put some gasket-sealing Black silicone on the corners of each half-moon.
16. After removing the valve cover gasket make sure to remove the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. It only goes on one way.
17. Remove all spark plugs and spark plug tubes and if you haven't replaced them before here is a good time to do so. When reinstalling make sure to lube (White lithium grease) top and bottom of the spark plug tubes for an easier installation of the valve cover. TIP: Guide the tubes in the right spot whole pushing slightly on the valve cover.
18. Remove the cam oil line for easier access to the valve stems.
TIMING CHAIN CASE (CYL. 1-4)

19. Remove the brake vacuum pump (replace O-ring). You have to remove the hose line from on top and front (they are some clamps). For the top tab just bend it down and slip a flat head screwdriver under the tab to break it loose. Also there are two 10mm Nuts that hold a vacuum line in place. There is a small line in front that held on by a tab. TIP: Be careful not to break this line it could be very brittle.
20. Remove the three external torxs (E8) that's holding the metal bracket that holding the brake vacuum pump.
21. Remove the pump and it's important that you remember the position of the rotor. Installing the pump it's a floppy vain that sticks out. You want to make sure it straight when it goes in to fit back into the grove on the other side. A pic tool might be nice to have.
22. Remove the solenoid that's held in by a clip with a 10mm bolt and connection wire (Press down on metal spring and pull). Replace the O-ring on the solenoid.
23. Remove the clip holding the wires in front of the timing cover case just pry that a loss with a screwdriver.
24. Remove the timing cover case which eight 10mm bolts. You might have to remove the Y hose over and unplug the connector to the water pump.
25. Pry the timing cover case (TCC) gently with a screwdriver. Clean the TCC and replace the gasket with the new one.
BANK 2 (CYL. 5-8) ONLY DIFFERNTS
26. Remove the gas line by pushing in and pushing the black lever then pull a loss. Be carefully cause it could quite a bit of gas still in the line. Try not to let it get in your eyes.
27. There is a couple of tabs that hold some wires in place just open it and move the wires over some.
28. There is a purge valve in front that should remove for more room. Just squeeze the tabs and pull down. Remove the bracket that holds the purge valve you can remove it or not. (It's optional)
29. When remove the valve cover case (REFER BACK TO STEP 15) it's basically the same thing just on the other side. NOTE: when installing the valve cover remove the dipstick and start slightly form the center and work it in.
TIMING COVER CASE (CYL. 5-8) REFER BACK TO BANK 2 (CYL. 5-8) steps 8-21 FOR
30. You will need to wedge the large wire harness (which goes to the alternator) from the clips that hold it in place and bend it out of the way a LITTLE. The clip is held in by two screws that hold the harness
31. Remove the solenoid that's held in by a clip with a 10mm bolt and connection wire (Press down on metal spring and pull). Replace the O-rings on the solenoids.
32. Remove the timing cover case (TCC) gently. Clean the TCC and replace with the new gasket.


While everything is a loose its time to replace the Valve Stem Seals using the N62 Valve Stem Seal Tool. I'm not going to go into details about how to use the tool because AGA does a step-by-step video of the entire procedure.

I would say after a few time using the tool thing got a lot smoother and faster.

As for the code p0492 (secondary air injection) when everything is apart makes it easier to slide your hand behind the engine (so you don't need a pair of little girl hands) to remove the air tube for the cleaning that specified in AGA video. It just makes the job go a little easier. I'm not going to go into details about how to use the tool because AGA does a step-by-step video of the entire procedure


CAR NOT SMOKING ANYMORE AND RUNS LIKE NEW. TOOK A 14-20K JOB AT THE DEALER and turned it into a much affordable job. It takes a lot of time!

MESSAGE ME WITH ANY QUESTION AND OR IF YOU NEED MY ASSISTANTS.


VIDEO ATTACHED:
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Last edited by Knight's Master Tech; 10-18-2014 at 01:13 PM. Reason: ADD A LINK
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  #2  
Old 03-14-2015, 07:51 AM
Philipb Philipb is offline
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Location: Johannesburg
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 750i E65
great post, about to do this too. Did you use the AGA tool or did you mange with the universal one. Looks like in the video you used the universal camshaft tool but your post said refer to AGA. Will a semi experienced mechanic be able to do this with only the universal tool?
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  #3  
Old 04-02-2015, 06:48 PM
Ericsonp Ericsonp is offline
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Location: Jacksonville, FL
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 31
Mein Auto: 05 BMW 745Li
Great write up and video, i did everything here except the valve stem replacement....
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  #4  
Old 04-02-2015, 07:00 PM
Knight's Master Tech Knight's Master Tech is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 745i
Thanks! You talking about the valve stem seals right?
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  #5  
Old 05-07-2015, 04:43 PM
Ericsonp Ericsonp is offline
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Location: Jacksonville, FL
 
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Mein Auto: 05 BMW 745Li
Correct, now i am looking for someone around Jacksonville, Orlando, Tampa area too complete this job for me, i'll pay 2k cash!!!
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  #6  
Old 09-03-2015, 02:14 PM
jhryder jhryder is offline
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Location: Raleigh, NC
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 35
Mein Auto: 2002 745i
Steps 19 - 22

Hey,

Just wanted to be sure if i actually had to do steps 19 - 22. Not even sure where they are to be honest.


19. Remove the brake vacuum pump (replace O-ring). You have to remove the hose line from on top and front (they are some clamps). For the top tab just bend it down and slip a flat head screwdriver under the tab to break it loose. Also there are two 10mm Nuts that hold a vacuum line in place. There is a small line in front that held on by a tab. TIP: Be careful not to break this line it could be very brittle.
20. Remove the three external torxs (E8) that's holding the metal bracket that holding the brake vacuum pump.
21. Remove the pump and it's important that you remember the position of the rotor. Installing the pump it's a floppy vain that sticks out. You want to make sure it straight when it goes in to fit back into the grove on the other side. A pic tool might be nice to have.
22. Remove the solenoid that's held in by a clip with a 10mm bolt and connection wire (Press down on metal spring and pull). Replace the O-ring on the solenoid.
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  #7  
Old 09-03-2015, 03:48 PM
Knight's Master Tech Knight's Master Tech is offline
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Location: Chicago
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
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Mein Auto: 02 745i
Only if you're replacing your timing chain gasket
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  #8  
Old 12-18-2015, 11:55 AM
mjksoft mjksoft is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: SA
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 131
Mein Auto: BMW750LiA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight's Master Tech View Post
After noticing white/bluish smoke coming from the tale pipe and further reading up on the diagnoses is that the Valve Stems Seals had to be replaced. My check engine light was on and read code p0492 (secondary air Fault bank 2). I already replaced the emission control valve a few months ago and the check engine light came back on. Purchased both the AGA Valve Stem Seal tool and AGA Secondary Air Cleaner Kit to complete these tasks. I will do my best to example in detail all necessary steps to complete. TO COMPLETE ALL WHAT IM ABOUT TO SHOW YOU WILL COST TWO ARMS, YOUR FRIST AND LAST BORN AND YOU'RE LEGS.
DEALER COST:
-VALVE STEM SEALS 8-12K
-SECONDARY AIR SYSTEM CLEANING 6K
-NOT TO MENTION EVERYTHING ELSE BELOW.

I will also replace the Valve Cover Gasket, Timing Cover Gasket, Engine/Cabin Air Filters and a host of O-Rings that is listed in details.

For this E65/E66/N62 DIY job
-Valve Stem Oil Seals: 11340029751 Qty: 2 (16 in a pack)
-Valve Cover Gaskets (Cyl. 1-4):
-Valve Cover Gaskets (Cyl. 5-8):
-Engine Timing Chain Case Gasket: 11147506424 - Qty: 1
-Engine Timing Chain Case Gasket: 11147506425 - Qty: 1
-Vanos Solenoid O-Ring: 11367513222 - Qty: 4
-Brake Vacuum Pump O-Ring:
-Eccentric Shaft Actuator Seal: 07119903596 - Qty: 2
-Eccentric Shaft Sensor Seal: 11127518420 - Qty: 2
-Valve Cover Grommet: 11127511582 - Qty: 4 (optional)
-Cam Sensor O-Ring: 12141748398 - Qty: 4
-Engine Air Filter: C301531 - Qty: 1
-Cabin Air Filter (Activated Charcoal): CUK31242 - Qty: 1
-Spark Plug Tube: 112757021

Difficulty level 1-10: 9 -- because of so much that have to be removed and all the sensitive sensors that could be broken while removing and installing. It took me three days due to getting use to the tools that I had to use.

TIP: REMOVE THE HOOD STRUATES TO ALOW remove the hood striates to allow more room to work

1. Remove the hood struts for more room. (Optional)(A hood rod would be very useful)
2. Remove the two Black Panels and the engine cover
3. Remove the air filter box (for more room), intake assembly and the spark plugs covers.
4. Remove cabin filter box off
5. Remove the weather strip and the four bolts alone with two more torque screws underneath (T30) that hold the firewall bracket in.
6. Remove the air ducks for the cabin filters (T20). Tip: remember how to remove the "X CLAMP" so u want have a problem reassembling it back together.
7. Remove the E-Box cover Allen Wrench (5mm) pull it up. With the wire harness I just wiggled it up slightly out the way and gave myself room.
BANK 1: CLY. 1-4
8. Remove the Cam Sensors and Eccentric Shaft Sensor (T25 torx) connectors and screws. (Remove the connectors by squeezing the side tabs and pulling upwards. Eccentric shaft sensor connector pulls straight up.)(Replacement O-rings and sensor seals is listed up top)
9. Remove ignition coils by lifting up the tab and remove the sensor. Ignition coils 2, 4 and 8 were the hardest to remove. #2 has to get pass the ABS system and 8 and big screw on the firewall in back. A pull/twist helps to remove.
10. Remove the wire harness that's clipped to the valve cover by prying in-between with a screwdriver. Move it over as much as possible.
11. Remove the servomotor (Actuator) connection and four screws (Allen 4mm)(replace O-ring). Unscrew it out and when reassembling screw it back in. righty tighty lefty loosey! IMPORTANT: It requires you to initialize the servomotors but when u install it back turn the car on without starting it for 20s to relearn.
12. Remove the servomotor spacer, which has four screws (T25 torx). Just pull up and replace the O-ring around it, which comes in the valve cover gasket kit.
13. Remove the crankcase hose. VERY IMPORTANT: Hose might be brittle and fall apart in your hand. And those hose cost about $150 give of take.
14. For more room remove the two screws (T25 torx) from the antifreeze reservoir and just slide it over. (Makes it little easier to remove the valve cover.
15. Removing valve cover thirteen 10mm bolts. The screw in the back might be a little difficult to reach but it could be done. VERY IMPORTANT: when removing and installing the valve cover is very careful not to break the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. When installing the valve covers be patient and very careful. It is a very difficult task. IMPORTANT: after removing all screws from valve cover, make sure the Grommet stay in place until
removal. You wouldn't want broken parts from those falling into your oil system. IMPORTANT: When reinstalling the valve cover gaskets make sure you put some gasket-sealing Black silicone on the corners of each half-moon.
16. After removing the valve cover gasket make sure to remove the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. It only goes on one way.
17. Remove all spark plugs and spark plug tubes and if you haven't replaced them before here is a good time to do so. When reinstalling make sure to lube (White lithium grease) top and bottom of the spark plug tubes for an easier installation of the valve cover. TIP: Guide the tubes in the right spot whole pushing slightly on the valve cover.
18. Remove the cam oil line for easier access to the valve stems.
TIMING CHAIN CASE (CYL. 1-4)

19. Remove the brake vacuum pump (replace O-ring). You have to remove the hose line from on top and front (they are some clamps). For the top tab just bend it down and slip a flat head screwdriver under the tab to break it loose. Also there are two 10mm Nuts that hold a vacuum line in place. There is a small line in front that held on by a tab. TIP: Be careful not to break this line it could be very brittle.
20. Remove the three external torxs (E8) that's holding the metal bracket that holding the brake vacuum pump.
21. Remove the pump and it's important that you remember the position of the rotor. Installing the pump it's a floppy vain that sticks out. You want to make sure it straight when it goes in to fit back into the grove on the other side. A pic tool might be nice to have.
22. Remove the solenoid that's held in by a clip with a 10mm bolt and connection wire (Press down on metal spring and pull). Replace the O-ring on the solenoid.
23. Remove the clip holding the wires in front of the timing cover case just pry that a loss with a screwdriver.
24. Remove the timing cover case which eight 10mm bolts. You might have to remove the Y hose over and unplug the connector to the water pump.
25. Pry the timing cover case (TCC) gently with a screwdriver. Clean the TCC and replace the gasket with the new one.
BANK 2 (CYL. 5-8) ONLY DIFFERNTS
26. Remove the gas line by pushing in and pushing the black lever then pull a loss. Be carefully cause it could quite a bit of gas still in the line. Try not to let it get in your eyes.
27. There is a couple of tabs that hold some wires in place just open it and move the wires over some.
28. There is a purge valve in front that should remove for more room. Just squeeze the tabs and pull down. Remove the bracket that holds the purge valve you can remove it or not. (It's optional)
29. When remove the valve cover case (REFER BACK TO STEP 15) it's basically the same thing just on the other side. NOTE: when installing the valve cover remove the dipstick and start slightly form the center and work it in.
TIMING COVER CASE (CYL. 5-8) REFER BACK TO BANK 2 (CYL. 5-8) steps 8-21 FOR
30. You will need to wedge the large wire harness (which goes to the alternator) from the clips that hold it in place and bend it out of the way a LITTLE. The clip is held in by two screws that hold the harness
31. Remove the solenoid that's held in by a clip with a 10mm bolt and connection wire (Press down on metal spring and pull). Replace the O-rings on the solenoids.
32. Remove the timing cover case (TCC) gently. Clean the TCC and replace with the new gasket.


While everything is a loose its time to replace the Valve Stem Seals using the N62 Valve Stem Seal Tool. I'm not going to go into details about how to use the tool because AGA does a step-by-step video of the entire procedure.

I would say after a few time using the tool thing got a lot smoother and faster.

As for the code p0492 (secondary air injection) when everything is apart makes it easier to slide your hand behind the engine (so you don't need a pair of little girl hands) to remove the air tube for the cleaning that specified in AGA video. It just makes the job go a little easier. I'm not going to go into details about how to use the tool because AGA does a step-by-step video of the entire procedure


CAR NOT SMOKING ANYMORE AND RUNS LIKE NEW. TOOK A 14-20K JOB AT THE DEALER and turned it into a much affordable job. It takes a lot of time!

MESSAGE ME WITH ANY QUESTION AND OR IF YOU NEED MY ASSISTANTS.


VIDEO ATTACHED:
I removed all screws / bolts on the cover but cover doesn't come out, do i have to hard push the cove to come out ??
I removed 5 in top , 5 bottom and 1 middle left and right.
am i missing anything else??
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  #9  
Old 12-18-2015, 12:25 PM
Knight's Master Tech Knight's Master Tech is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 745i
You may have to slightly pry on the valve cover
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  #10  
Old 12-25-2015, 09:47 AM
mjksoft mjksoft is offline
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Location: SA
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 131
Mein Auto: BMW750LiA
Knight's Master tech... With some wiggles and force I can move the cover from its location. Now when tried to take it out it stacked near to firewall with ABS lines .
I believe the spark plugs tube still attached to the cover, How to drop them from cover to fall to engine head?

Last edited by mjksoft; 12-25-2015 at 11:07 AM.
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  #11  
Old 12-26-2015, 10:16 AM
Knight's Master Tech Knight's Master Tech is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 745i
U have pics
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2016, 06:46 AM
stefcurry stefcurry is offline
I never miss
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 5
Mein Auto: 750i e65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericsonp View Post
Correct, now i am looking for someone around Jacksonville, Orlando, Tampa area too complete this job for me, i'll pay 2k cash!!!
Did you ever find anyone to do it?
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  #13  
Old 11-25-2016, 01:15 PM
riff riff is offline
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Location: Portsmouth, NH
 
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Posts: 125
Mein Auto: 745i, 330Xi
I am just starting this job using the AGA tool. I have done the exhaust valves on cylinder 1 and am now moving on to the intake valves. I am having a difficult time removing the spring over cylinder 1 that causes an interference (#7 in this diagram http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_3283 ). Everything I have seen states "remove the torx bolt and pull the spring off". That is not working for me. I have tried pulling it with needle nose pliers and levering it with a screw driver - it barely budges.

So....

Got any tips for removing the spring?

Thanks.
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2017, 07:50 AM
TamaToa916 TamaToa916 is offline
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Location: Antioch California
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 44
Mein Auto: 2002 745I
Thank you very much for this write up and the extra tips. I just started today, and finished cylinder 1. I will resume tomorrow, but the wifey says I can only work half day. Hopefully, I can proceed more efficiently. However, I have taken this very slowly, because I am scared as hell of dropping a valve. I am a novice with a leak down tester, and never used it before. I tested it with 100 PSI going in, and it turned the engine. So, I backed down the pressure regulator on the compressor to 60 PSI. Because I am changing out my water pump, upper timing case gasket, and alternator bracket gasket, there is plenty of open space in front of the engine. As a back up, I am keeping the torque wrench attached to the crank case bolt braced up against the frame as insurance to keep the engine from turning with compression.

The AGA video is not detailed enough for a novice like me. I had to google the correct PSI on the compressor for this job. Also, this darn leak down tester comes with an extension, which I assumed I had to use (NOT!!!). I treaded it onto the feed to the engine for my test of the leak down to see how it works. After the engine turned, I disconnected the feed and began to turn by hand the feed attached to the engine at the spark plug opening. When the tube came out, the extension fitting was still stuck inside the spark plug opening :-( I kept threading back in the feed to try and catch the extension to thread back out, but it just kept turning the extension in tighter!!! Life of a novice wanna be mechanic is no bueno! After cursing loud enough for the neighbor to walk over and check on me, I calmed down, stuck a six inch extension into it and managed to catch it and thread it out. So, long story short, don't used that damn extension, not needed.

For the exhaust valves, the mounts for the AGA tool are at the last two bolts and the first two bolts. Because of this, I was trying to fit the back intake mounting at the last opening near the mount for the cam shaft position senor, but it doesn't fit. After watching the video several times, there are a short few frames where it clearly shows the back intake mount is placed one the 3rd pair of bolts. There might be other novices out there like me that might need that.

The positioning of the foot when compressing the springs is very important. If not positioned correctly, it will be difficult to release tension and seat the valve keeper correctly. I kept getting stuck on intake valve 2. Either I messed up with the valve keeper, or the valve keeper would not seat correctly when releasing the spring tension. Patience came in very handily today.

On a side note, I ordered 8 new spark plug tubes from Parts Geek. Febi has them at $13 each, which is way better than the $40 OE version. When I removed the spark plugs, two of the tubes were leaking oil, so I figured I would remove all 8 since a novice like me needs to be able to easily thread the AGA plastic spark plug filler and TDC flag.

If you have to remove that spring at cylinder 1 and 5, then you will be better off using the L footing at Cylinder 1 ,and R footing at Cylinder 5. AGA directions call for the S, but the piece that the spring goes under blocks it. Also, the AGA video does not show you to position the tool outside of the bracket with the bar extending for cylinder 1 intake 1 and cylinder 1 exhaust 1. It would be good if he did that for novices like me. I have only completed cylinder 1 today. I guess I will be using the same technique for the back intake valves.

Thank you very much for this thread and video. There is no way I would be brave enough to proceed without this thread. if I have other novice level advice as I proceed through day 2 tomorrow, I will definitely add to this thread for others that might be performing this job.

Last edited by TamaToa916; 02-24-2017 at 10:47 AM.
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  #15  
Old 02-23-2017, 06:05 AM
AvoidStealerhip AvoidStealerhip is online now
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 24
Mein Auto: E65
Thank you Knight's Master Tech. Very generous of you to take the time to help others.

Thanks TamaToa916, it will definitely help the rest of us that still have to do this.

Last edited by AvoidStealerhip; 02-23-2017 at 06:07 AM.
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  #16  
Old 02-23-2017, 06:06 AM
AvoidStealerhip AvoidStealerhip is online now
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Location: Canada
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 24
Mein Auto: E65
Thank you.

I assume there was no need for the carbon removal hook and the catalytic converter remained untouched.

Last edited by AvoidStealerhip; 02-23-2017 at 06:07 AM.
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  #17  
Old 02-23-2017, 07:54 AM
TamaToa916 TamaToa916 is offline
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Location: Antioch California
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 44
Mein Auto: 2002 745I
Having good lighting is critical for this project. Buy extra lights, and purchase a small pocket flash light, or even better the flash light that you wear on your head. Get at least two magnets also. The magnets will save you again and again with these valve keepers. When you pull those valve keepers, take your time. Do not lose the keepers. The keepers might drop somewhere inside, but the magnets can be used to find them. I was able to complete the project without losing one. Steady your hand, take a deep breath and pull those keepers out.

For a novice like me, I rarely was able to get the valve keepers back on with the first try. It took several times, many times with the intake valves at the back. So, stay patient. Be prepared to use your magnet to pull the keepers that didn't seat correctly, and retry again and again till it seats correctly. Sometimes, it would be in position, but needed a slight push from the side with a screw driver to seat onto the valve. I'm sure for a real mechanic, they would have the touch down. But for some like me, you will have to be patient. Have your favorite beverage safely waiting by, and take a break when you start getting frustrated! lol Btw, this AGA valve keeper tool is outstanding!!! I cannot for the life of me imagine someone trying to do this without such a tool. It would be CRAZY!!!

For the cam roller, I have big hands. For most of the valves, I didn't remove the rollers. I just pushed it to the side. The reason is that it was such a pain for me to get it to snap back onto the lifter! For the exhaust cylinder 8, you have no choice but to pull it out at the back because there is no room to move it. However, for most of the other ones, you can just turn it to the side. Use the magnet to grab it, and place back onto the valve. Be careful though not to grab the keeper back out of the valve when that magnet is near it. Make sure that the roller is reinstalled with the valve in the "V" of the roller. It has to be seated correctly when reinstalling.

None of the intermediate levers fell or were damaged when I finished the project. You must be very careful when compressing the spring. If the footing is not positioned correctly, it will slide off the spring and.....that spring will....SPRING up!! and crack or pop stuff out of place. Keep your eye on the footing and how the spring is going down. If it doesn't look right compressing or it is starting to slide off, back it up, and start over. You don't want to waste time and money having to fix other issues in there.

My bimmer is an 02. The firewall black/grey lining material was coming off, glue worn. When I brushed against it, the air was filled with dust or crap which floated down onto the engine. I got some spare work towels and cover it, while tucking it into the hoses nearby. On the driverside, it was worse, and there are some sharp edges and screws that stick out. Do yourself a favor, make sure to use shop towels or something else to cover those, and keep your wrists and hands from being cut.

If you have issues with your back, this project is not for you!!! lmao, it is truly a back breaker. Fortunately, I am working on my alternator bracket gasket. So, the driver side motor mount is off. My car is sitting on stands. This made it easier to grab tools or screws that fell during the project. This allowed me to lift the driver's side to gain more room for the project.

The 745i is running with zero smoke, no errors. Thanks again for this thread.

Good luck to anyone that does this project. Be patient, and stay the course.

Last edited by TamaToa916; 03-04-2017 at 07:06 PM.
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  #18  
Old 02-23-2017, 08:07 AM
TamaToa916 TamaToa916 is offline
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Location: Antioch California
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 44
Mein Auto: 2002 745I
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvoidStealerhip View Post
I assume there was no need for the carbon removal hook and the catalytic converter remained untouched.
No, I didn't use that kit. I am unsure of the fault code, but if you don't get the one for the air pump, than really not necessary. I wasn't getting the code for it, so not really needed. This is what I was told by one mechanic.
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  #19  
Old 02-23-2017, 08:44 AM
TamaToa916 TamaToa916 is offline
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Location: Antioch California
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 44
Mein Auto: 2002 745I
I rented the AGA Stem Seal Tool Kit and Leak Down tester from SpecialtyAutoToolsRentals.com. Stevie is the guy that helped me, and he will return your call, so leave a message. There are others that do this on eBay, but I felt most comfortable with this online company.
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Tags
2002 bmw 745i, n62/e65/e66 valve stem seals, o-rings, p0492 & p0491, secondary air bank 1 and bank2, smoke from tale pipe, timing case gasket, valve cover gasket


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