How to replace your coolant pipe, valve covers, timing gaskets and more

Lift Points on your car

Taking extra pics while I'm under here.
Reference only

There are 6 locations for you to jack up the car 2 primary


The first is the plastic Block directly under the car between the front
2nd is the rear axle dead center

The other 4 are for jacking up a side for a tire change and located just below each of the 4 doors.

Taking extra pics while I'm under here.
Reference only

Engine Opening to Alternator Housing Seal
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
Transmission Pan Drain Location
Exhaust Tubing and Oxygen Sensor locations
Oil Pump pics

Originally Posted by wilson009

I'm just working out of my garage on weekends and evenings. My kids and wife are suffering but I gotta knock this out. My references are the electronic TIS which is an electronic manual, real oem for breakout of parts, google, and I read all the problems on this board and the solutions and get help from the guys on here.

I had a friend who was a mechanic that taught me about the timing chain.

I'm not going any farther than this so an engine pull wasn't needed I have no idea how to do that anyway.

By studying and documenting everything it helps me learn everything so I can get it all back together. One nice thing about BMW is all of the visual resources.

You mentioned pulling the engine if you did this again, so my questions again (kind of) is why not pull the engine? I am by no means a mechanic, but it seems like you just unplug the wires, loosen the motor mounts, take off a few parts like the fan etc, disconnect from the tranny and pull it, right? Obviously the hood would need to come off too i assume. An engine lift would be required.

I have NEVER pulled an engine, but it doesnt seem that hard really, but please feel free to correct me if i'm wrong. I'm thinking in a couple years lots of us will have the same issues and for those of us that like to tinker, it might be easier to just pull everything to gain better access for this involved of a job.

Now, if all the parts you took off would have to be taken off anyway before the engine pull, then the access issue would be moot.

I am completely unaware of how to disconect an engine from a transmission, but i'm guessing the tranny housing just bolts the the engine in a specific way and lines itself up?

Also, you mentioned in one post that if you disconnect one of the engine mounts, you can jack the engine up 5 or 6 inches for access to a certain part, wouldnt this lift the transmission as well? Would you have to loosen transmission mounting brackets or is it floating? If it's floating I assume that due to the guibo in the drive shaft, that may be the flex point?

Thoughts?

Originally Posted by Blue Bimmer

You mentioned pulling the engine if you did this again, so my questions again (kind of) is why not pull the engine? I am by no means a mechanic, but it seems like you just unplug the wires, loosen the motor mounts, take off a few parts like the fan etc, disconnect from the tranny and pull it, right? Obviously the hood would need to come off too i assume. An engine lift would be required.

I have NEVER pulled an engine, but it doesnt seem that hard really, but please feel free to correct me if i'm wrong. I'm thinking in a couple years lots of us will have the same issues and for those of us that like to tinker, it might be easier to just pull everything to gain better access for this involved of a job.

Now, if all the parts you took off would have to be taken off anyway before the engine pull, then the access issue would be moot.

I am completely unaware of how to disconect an engine from a transmission, but i'm guessing the tranny housing just bolts the the engine in a specific way and lines itself up?

Also, you mentioned in one post that if you disconnect one of the engine mounts, you can jack the engine up 5 or 6 inches for access to a certain part, wouldnt this lift the transmission as well? Would you have to loosen transmission mounting brackets or is it floating? If it's floating I assume that due to the guibo in the drive shaft, that may be the flex point?

Thoughts?

It depends really. At most factories these days the engine is installed from below. I'm fairly certain they still provide some type of accommodation to remove the engine from above though. You'd remove the trans at the bell housing most likely. I don't believe most production cars have enough room to remove the trans with the engine.

Personally if I had to do this I would just remove the engine because even though most/all the same parts are going to need to come off to do the job at least you have easy access to them when the engine is sitting on a stand. Truth be told if I was going that far that I'd either get rid of the car or do a complete engine rebuild while it's out but, that's just me.

Whether you pull the engine is a comfort level really. If your comfortable with it and have the tools do it. There are 2 connectons on the engine, front driver side, rear passenger side. Attached a chain to those to loops of a disconnected engine and it will pull right up.
There will be a few more connections to remove such as the exhaust pipes etc and who know what else..

Do just do the all German Auto pipe, its just a fraction of the work i did.


To do it even cheaper do it the way Tommie B did by lifting up the side. This worked well for me until I ran into the Timing Chain issues, but by then I was already in deep. This is all a new learning process for all of us and can no doubt be improved by the next guy. I didn't have to do anything with the Tranny bolts.

I'm not a mechanic. I work in IT lol. I'm doing what I have to do and learning and correcting as i go. I have had limited experience with cars in the past (oil, belts, pans) but this has greatly increased my knowledge. So if I had the same knowledge I had right now, at the beginning of this project I probably would have pulled the engine.

Originally Posted by Blue Bimmer

You mentioned pulling the engine if you did this again, so my questions again (kind of) is why not pull the engine? I am by no means a mechanic, but it seems like you just unplug the wires, loosen the motor mounts, take off a few parts like the fan etc, disconnect from the tranny and pull it, right? Obviously the hood would need to come off too i assume. An engine lift would be required.

I have NEVER pulled an engine, but it doesnt seem that hard really, but please feel free to correct me if i'm wrong. I'm thinking in a couple years lots of us will have the same issues and for those of us that like to tinker, it might be easier to just pull everything to gain better access for this involved of a job.

Now, if all the parts you took off would have to be taken off anyway before the engine pull, then the access issue would be moot.

I am completely unaware of how to disconect an engine from a transmission, but i'm guessing the tranny housing just bolts the the engine in a specific way and lines itself up?

Also, you mentioned in one post that if you disconnect one of the engine mounts, you can jack the engine up 5 or 6 inches for access to a certain part, wouldnt this lift the transmission as well? Would you have to loosen transmission mounting brackets or is it floating? If it's floating I assume that due to the guibo in the drive shaft, that may be the flex point?

Thoughts?

Originally Posted by wilson009

Whether you pull the engine is a comfort level really. If your comfortable with it and have the tools do it. There are 2 connectons on the engine, front driver side, rear passenger side. Attached a chain to those to loops of a disconnected engine and it will pull right up.
There will be a few more connections to remove such as the exhaust pipes etc and who know what else..

Do just do the all German Auto pipe, its just a fraction of the work i did.


To do it even cheaper do it the way Tommie B did by lifting up the side. This worked well for me until I ran into the Timing Chain issues, but by then I was already in deep. This is all a new learning process for all of us and can no doubt be improved by the next guy. I didn't have to do anything with the Tranny bolts.

I'm not a mechanic. I work in IT lol. I'm doing what I have to do and learning and correcting as i go. I have had limited experience with cars in the past (oil, belts, pans) but this has greatly increased my knowledge. So if I had the same knowledge I had right now, at the beginning of this project I probably would have pulled the engine.

Good way to state it.

Hopefully my post didnt sound rude- I applaud your efforts and appreciate you sharing your experience. I am thinking though if I were to do the coolant pipe myself, i'd probably have the same mentality as you and figure that since i'm already wrist deep, might as well go elbow deep and do some preventative maintenance- plus it would be a project.

Anyway- thanks for all the info.

Originally Posted by wilson009

Whether you pull the engine is a comfort level really. If your comfortable with it and have the tools do it. There are 2 connectons on the engine, front driver side, rear passenger side. Attached a chain to those to loops of a disconnected engine and it will pull right up.
There will be a few more connections to remove such as the exhaust pipes etc and who know what else..

Do just do the all German Auto pipe, its just a fraction of the work i did.


To do it even cheaper do it the way Tommie B did by lifting up the side. This worked well for me until I ran into the Timing Chain issues, but by then I was already in deep. This is all a new learning process for all of us and can no doubt be improved by the next guy. I didn't have to do anything with the Tranny bolts.

I'm not a mechanic. I work in IT lol. I'm doing what I have to do and learning and correcting as i go. I have had limited experience with cars in the past (oil, belts, pans) but this has greatly increased my knowledge. So if I had the same knowledge I had right now, at the beginning of this project I probably would have pulled the engine.

No not at all. Its all good!

Originally Posted by Blue Bimmer

Hopefully my post didnt sound rude- I applaud your efforts and appreciate you sharing your experience. I am thinking though if I were to do the coolant pipe myself, i'd probably have the same mentality as you and figure that since i'm already wrist deep, might as well go elbow deep and do some preventative maintenance- plus it would be a project.

Anyway- thanks for all the info.

TIMING PROCEDURES

Get the timing tools. They are sooo worth it. 11 9 460 ebay

1. Put Engine at Top Dead Center TDC on Cylinder #1.
a. Cylinder 1 is the front Piston on Passenger Side
b. Start the timing procedures on The Drivers Side..
c. Secure vibration damper with special tool 11 9 190 in firing TDC position of 1st cylinder.
2. Slacken screws of exhaust and inlet adjustment unit. Turn to the left to loosen.
a. When slackening screws, grip camshafts at hexagon head behind inlet units with wrench. See pic.
3. Place special tool 11 9 461 on inlet camshaft and align inlet. The cams move free of the chain when loosened.
4. Adjust camshaft so that special tool 11 9 461 rests without a gap on cylinder head.
5. Fit special tool 11 9 463 , secure screw (1) in thread for oil line and tighten down by hand.
6. Tightening down screw to inlet while gripping camshaft at hexagon head.
7. Place special tool 11 9 462 on exhaust camshaft and align exhaust camshaft so that special tool 11 9 462 rests without a gap on cylinder head.
8. Fit special tool 11 9 463 , secure screw (1) in thread for oil line and tighten down by hand.
9. Tightening down screw to exhaust while gripping camshaft at hexagon head.

Check Timing on Passenger Side
Repeat Procedure if needed

Once everything is aligned Crank engine at central bolt twice in direction of rotation until
engine returns to firing TDC position of 1st cylinder. Check your timing again. If it is off adjust again. Slack in the chain may throw off timing. Repeat procedure to adjust cams again if needed.

So, is it put back together? I'm dying to know if it starts up and runs fine the first time.

Jer

+1 - very curious to hear the results!

Originally Posted by wilson009

No not at all. Its all good!

Keep it rolling Wilson, quite extensive project and details are exemplary, learning a lot.

+1. Mighty glad to have timing instructions posted somewhere and have access to someone who has done it! ...and glad to have material for people to fight the dealers with when they say it's a nightmare to do the timing on these! Great job man, and thanks for posting all these pictures/procedures.

I know it would be a lot to ask, but would help others, could you tally the parts and costs in an itemized list as well as your estimated time spent doing the work? I know you said you were an IT guy and did this project not having any real experience, so I applaud you for that. So, if I were drive out to Ohio, what's your labor charge? :-)

Jer

Originally Posted by Keif

+1. Mighty glad to have timing instructions posted somewhere and have access to someone who has done it! ...and glad to have material for people to fight the dealers with when they say it's a nightmare to do the timing on these! Great job man, and thanks for posting all these pictures/procedures.

+1

+1!! One of the best post's I've seen since I have been a member of this forum!

Don't worry i'll post the results and figure out the costs when I'm done.

I don't have it together yet. I only have a few hours each night or less depending on kid demands and my wifey. My heater broke and its 23 degrees right now so i'm didn't get much done this week.

And yes i"m too am worried when i first start it up. I'm sure I'll get some errors from various sensors. But I know I got all my seals right and torque settings done and timing right. Will probably do the Valve Covers this weekend, will need my patience for that one according to Keif lol.

I expect that after I get it running i will need to tightenup or replace one of my DSC lines which is siezed with rust and a few minor things that i may miss. So hopefully i'll be fully operational within a week (barring unforseen circumstances).

(and beer and maybe earplugs so the kids don't hear the cussing) ...it's not tough, just a pain.

Well I should have had it done this weekend but I made my first big mistake.

Putting on the Valve Cover on the driverside I read the wrong Torque setting for the bolts to the Timing Cover. I think I must have put in the torque for the cylinderhead to the block.

Anyway I always have a hard time trusting torque wrenches especially at the lower settings. I was spinning it in and wondering why it hadn't clicked. The it just snapped off.
Stupid mistake after so much tedious work.

The aluminum is so soft I destroyed the timing cover trying to back out the bolt.

Thankfully realoem makes it so easy to order parts. I'll have a replacement by Wednesday.

Meanwhile I put on the Passenger side valve Cover as well as pretty much the rest of the parts. I'll write that up later. So close.

Originally Posted by wilson009

Well I should have had it done this weekend but I made my first big mistake.

Putting on the Valve Cover on the driverside I read the wrong Torque setting for the bolts to the Timing Cover. I think I must have put in the torque for the cylinderhead to the block.

Anyway I always have a hard time trusting torque wrenches especially at the lower settings. I was spinning it in and wondering why it hadn't clicked. The it just snapped off.
Stupid mistake after so much tedious work.

The aluminum is so soft I destroyed the timing cover trying to back out the bolt.

Thankfully realoem makes it so easy to order parts. I'll have a replacement by Wednesday.

Meanwhile I put on the Passenger side valve Cover as well as pretty much the rest of the parts. I'll write that up later. So close.

Is it in a location where you will be able to heli-coil the damaged threads?

It would have been if I could have successfully removed the bolt. But its just a big gaping hole now too big to heli-coil back to 10mm. The timing case cover was $80 so not too big of a mistake.

how is it going?

Everything is together. No leaks.

However I"m dealing with a misfire on cylinder 1. I'll make a separate post on that as I need help. Then I'll finish up this post.

Re-installing the Valve Covers


Replace the 4 Valve Cover bolts. They are weak and can snap after previous use.

Put the spark plug tubes in. They should fit snug in the hole by the plugs. If they are loose at all they should be replaced as they will leak oil into your plug.

Use an OEM Gasket replacement to get the right fit. Apply a thin bead of "The Right Stuff" gasket maker or whatever you use to the top of the gasket and place in the valve cover then seat the gasket. Apply another layer to the bottom of the gasket. (BMW just does the corners. I did the whole thing)


Quickly work it on. The hard part is getting it over that cam shaft sensor. I highly reccommend doing a dry run a 1 or two times to get the procedure down. Once on align the cover holes with the smark plug tubes. Make sure everything is clear then use a rubber mallet to tamp it down till the tubes are snug against the cover.



Snug the bolts by hand then torqued the bolts.



Repeat the other side.


Put the rest of the car back together. If you got this far the putting back together is easy.

Unless you replaced a module there is no reprogramming by the dealership needed. The engine will re-adapt.

And Your all Done!

Your all done unless your a dumba$$ me that is....

Then you will unwittingly drop a plastic piece into the head which will cause exhaust valve #2 to jam.

So Part II of my project will be pulling the passenger side cylinder valve. Here we go again!