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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 10-26-2010, 08:39 PM
ChiMaster ChiMaster is offline
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Mein Auto: X5/330ci/328 XDrive
Just wanted to say thanks for the DIY

Tackled this on Sunday on my 06 X5 - This DIY was invaluable.

There were moments when I thought it would be impossible - but I referred back to the DIY and took my time.

The X5 already had the winterized version of the CCV which is wrapped in foam.
This made removing the CCV difficult as it was wedged in there tightly - I ended up breaking it to get it out.

Removing the power steering resevoir bracket bolts and moving it to the side made it much easier to reconnect the hoses

Thanks again Starless!!
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  #77  
Old 10-26-2010, 08:56 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiMaster View Post
Just wanted to say thanks for the DIY

Tackled this on Sunday on my 06 X5 - This DIY was invaluable.

There were moments when I thought it would be impossible - but I referred back to the DIY and took my time.

The X5 already had the winterized version of the CCV which is wrapped in foam.
This made removing the CCV difficult as it was wedged in there tightly - I ended up breaking it to get it out.

Removing the power steering resevoir bracket bolts and moving it to the side made it much easier to reconnect the hoses

Thanks again Starless!!
Wow, I'm glad to hear it was the same deal on X5. I'm often thinking that it would be nice to buy "the tank" for my wife. May be one day...
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  #78  
Old 10-26-2010, 09:58 PM
ChiMaster ChiMaster is offline
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I hated SUV's before the X5, but I have to admit it's an awesome vehicle.
Price is right now with 06's in the low 20's.

M54 is exactly the same, so if you know the 330, you know the X5.

Thanks Again!
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  #79  
Old 12-19-2010, 10:52 PM
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BoyScout BoyScout is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 330Ci ZHP
Just completed replacement of the CCV in my 323 yesterday. Took me about 6 hours total. The excellent writeup and resources on this board were invaluable for this DIY. Thank you to all who contributed.

Interesting information I discovered while performing the replacement is that the CCV that was installed in the early 323's was of a slightly different design than the current available parts. It was the same CCV unit, but only used 3 hoses...there was no return hose which in these writeups is the one that runs along side the fuel rail. In order to replace the old system with new hoses, I needed to replace the "Distribution piece" (you would think they could come up with a better name for the part than that) which in the writeup by Starless is the part with 6 ports that he indicated was not necessary to remove. In my case however it turns out I needed to replace it.

The old distribution piece only had one port on it to hook the ccv hose to, where in the pictures for the writeup you can see there are two connection ports. So for those who are performing this on an e46 323, be aware that you may need to purchase this part as well. It added an additional $100 to the parts total for me.
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  #80  
Old 01-29-2011, 07:10 AM
bird_skier bird_skier is offline
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Thank you very much. Just finished this up last night. I found the disassembly to be a more tedious task than assembly (other than the dip stick). I'd estimate the job took me about 6 hours. This place and the members that make it up are a tremendous resource.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Bimmer App
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  #81  
Old 02-13-2011, 04:40 PM
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sfidelisrp sfidelisrp is offline
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Quick question. Would replacing this and all the related tubes address the p0171/4 codes I'm STILL getting? I've replaced both intake tubes VERY recently and even just yesterday disassembled everything including ICV and DISA. Inspected it all and cleaned. RTV sealed the DISA and meticulously reattached everything. I'm needing to get a NC state inspection this week before Thursday and I'm afraid these codes will fail me.

Edit: I only get 0174. Only one bank is the culprit.
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  #82  
Old 02-13-2011, 07:44 PM
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smolck smolck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfidelisrp View Post
Quick question. Would replacing this and all the related tubes address the p0171/4 codes I'm STILL getting? I've replaced both intake tubes VERY recently and even just yesterday disassembled everything including ICV and DISA. Inspected it all and cleaned. RTV sealed the DISA and meticulously reattached everything. I'm needing to get a NC state inspection this week before Thursday and I'm afraid these codes will fail me.
Possibly, but not likely. Lean codes mean you have un-metered air getting in the system. Somewhere you probably have a vacuum leak. Those codes are the worst. Find someone with a peake scanner and get the BMW specific codes.
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
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  #83  
Old 02-13-2011, 07:49 PM
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sfidelisrp sfidelisrp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smolck View Post
Possibly, but not likely. Lean codes mean you have un-metered air getting in the system. Somewhere you probably have a vacuum leak. Those codes are the worst. Find someone with a peake scanner and get the BMW specific codes.
I've been reading a thread over at bimmerforums about how it can possibly be the intake manifold gasket. Any thoughts?
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  #84  
Old 02-15-2011, 11:00 AM
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Mark in TX Mark in TX is offline
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CCV diagnostic test

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsenier View Post
What failure caused you to do this job?
Here's at least a partial answer to this question, taken from a document outlining various common E46 problems. Includes an easy diagnostic DIY:

The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses fail and cause a vacuum leak.
The valve gets stuck open and the hoses crack. These last 70-120k miles and
usually fail 80-90k miles. Here are a couple diagnoses.
At warm idle, place small plastic freezer storage bag on its side over the
oil fill hole. If the bag sits on top or gets slightly sucked in, ~1", the
valve is good. If the bag gets significantly sucked in the hole the valve is
stuck open and bad.
With the engine off and cold, carefully remove the hose at the valve cover
front corner. Blow hard into the hole. You should hear oil bubbling in the
oil pan. If you don't hear the bubbling the top or bottom hose is likely
cracked. The bottom hose often breaks just below the valve connection. There
can also be cracks in the other two hoses.
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  #85  
Old 02-15-2011, 11:08 AM
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Mark in TX Mark in TX is offline
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DIY Video for CCV replacement

Bavarian Autosport recently posted a 3-part DIY video for this project. The text intro to the project includes symptoms you may be experiencing if your CCV needs replacement:

We typically get into the system when we see the symptoms appear, such as; oil burning, rough idle, engine fault codes that suggest air/fuel mixture problems or oxygen sensor problems and other symptoms that would suggest vacuum leaks in the systemís ventilation hoses or a ruptured check valve diaphragm. We have also seen what could be considered a catastrophic level failure which causes the cylinders to ingest oil right out of the crankcase and into the intake manifold and finally the cylinders Ö causing hydraulic lock. We are typically seeing these systems fail at mileages between 50,000 and 100,000.

http://blog.bavauto.com/bmw-e46/diy-...ilation-system
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  #86  
Old 02-15-2011, 03:22 PM
Nervous Nervous is offline
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Internals of my CVV


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  #87  
Old 02-27-2011, 09:25 PM
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Scottji Scottji is online now
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Thanks for this post -- very helpful. Thought I'd pass on my CCV experience this weekend. e46 325i -- symptoms were rough idle, slight whistle, like high-pitch crickets, and ultimately a check-engine light showing 0171 and 0174 (running lean). Also had a little suction coming from oil filler cap (but not too bad), and after driving on it for a few days, audible sucking sound from intake side. Diagnosed as intake leak or CCV. With about 100k on the car, I figured I'd be safe and do both at once -- if not one then the other was bound to go sooner rather than later. I won't discuss everything I did, but here were some unique experiences I had...

First, I made a big mistake going with an aftermarket brand oil separator -- USE OEM. The casting seams were very rough and the nipple diameters were too tight on the interior, requiring some forcing, especially for the upper flex hose to intake manifold -- I ended up breaking the fitting on that one trying to fit it because it was so tight (and yes, I rotated the fitting to the proper area of the nipple on the separator designed for the hose to slip down). Ultimately, I just jammed that hose down there as hard as I could, gave it a few firm tugs to make sure it wasn't going to rattle off, and left it alone (no way it would twist on its own -- not even with a pair of channel locks). I might be back in a week complaining about that hose leaking. Random tip -- I found it was easier to cut/snap the old hoses than try to pull them off the separator.

I removed and cleaned the idle control valve. Mistake #2 was failing to ensure that the ICV was plugged all the way back into the rubber fitting on the engine side. After starting it, I was smelling all sorts of gas -- you need to use some force to make sure the ICV fits snug all the way back in. After removing some parts and making sure that thing was snug, the gas smell went away.

When I was pulling things apart, I noted that my DISA valve was clearly broken -- the center pin in the butterfly valve was completely snapped. I hadn't bought a replacement for that, but I hear it can go, just like the CCV, around 100k miles. The stealership wanted $265 for the part,I was lucky enough to find a parts dealer open Saturday that had one for $205.

After I had everything together, I fired it up and every light in the car went crazy (SES, EML, etc.), the idle was all over (between 800-2000), and the throttle wasn't responding to the pedal. It was throwing, in addition to 0171 and 0174, codes 1634, 1632 and 1635 -- throttle-related. I figured I had got a bum aftermarket oil separator, based on the problems I had before with it. Rather than re-do the whole thing, we tried a few last-ditch things. I read somewhere that sometimes you have to reconfigure the throttlebody after its unplugged. It was a long shot, but I figured it couldn't hurt to try. I turned the key to "on" (but did NOT start the car) and let it sit for over a minute. I held my breath and said a prayer as I fired it up, and sure enough, purrs like a kitten. All I had to do was reconfigure the throttlebody. (I cleared the codes and took it for a drive with no problems, no codes, sounds great.) i mention this because I have not read that anyone else had this problem after doing their CCV, so thought it might be helpful.

As an epilogue, all my old parts looked very good. I could not find a leak in my intake parts, and they were all still very flexible (I replaced them anyway). More concerning is the fact that my oil separator still looked good. I didn't open it up, but there was not any oil on it, so it didn't look like it had been spewing oil. Makes me think my problem may have been from the broken DISA, although not sure why that would make it idle rough and throw lean codes. Hopefully I fixed it permanently, and didn't just throw a band-aid on a bigger problem. I'm about 95% sure the problem is totally fixed, but I'm a little concerned by the fact that I'm still feeling oil cap vacuum, combined with the uncertain fit for my separator to manifold flex hose.

Hardest part for me was the hose clamps on the lower intake boot. Nearly impossible to get to. Only thing that would work for me was the closed side of a little 6 mm wrench -- smallest one in my set, and even then took over an hour to get those things tight. I think a real short "stubby" ratchet might work, but I didn't have one small enough.

Last edited by Scottji; 02-28-2011 at 06:49 AM.
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  #88  
Old 02-28-2011, 07:08 AM
Starless Starless is offline
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^ Thanks for sharing, Scott
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  #89  
Old 02-28-2011, 09:03 AM
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Scottji Scottji is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starless View Post
^ Thanks for sharing, Scott
I should be thanking you for sharing your excellent write-up, complete with annotated pics. It was a lifesaver.

I've been a lurker for a while, but after using these forums for all sorts of maintenance/repair/info issues, I thought I would add my CCV story, since it seemed to entail something I haven't read about before -- recalibrating throttle body. I'd hate to hear about some poor sap with the same symptoms as I had, tearing apart the whole newly-installed intake/ccv looking for the problem (which I almost did), only to learn it could be fixed with turning the key to "on" for a minute before starting the engine.
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  #90  
Old 03-01-2011, 06:45 PM
UtahYork UtahYork is offline
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Thanks for the great write-up and pictures. You know they say a picture is worth... and they are right. I had two projects this past weekend - 1) replace oil separator and 2) replace oil filter housing gasket. Gasket to fix oil leak, OS just as a maintenance item (car has 108K miles). The OS was easier to get to since the oil filter housing was being removed. The hoses were brittle and broke off easily - it was a good time to replace them. The oil filter housing gasket was also hard and brittle. Got most of the project put together and then saw the oil dip stick tube sitting on my bench - sheeeeeeeeit! Oh well, back tracked a little, replaced the tube and got everything back together. Let see - started Friday night 6pm-9pm, Saturday morning from 10am-3pm, late lunch, then 5pm-9pm. Long and tiring project, but it felt good to get it completed. Car started right up with no issues. Not sure what the most difficult part was, but that damn dip stick tube gave me a good fight. My tip to others: label your electrical connectors. I'm glad I read another post that mentioned this - it was very helpful when putting things back together. Thanks to the OP and everyone else that commented. This is a great community! jy
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  #91  
Old 03-04-2011, 08:39 PM
rolling187 rolling187 is offline
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upper intake boot

Mine was very brittle and upon pulling the tube broke. Can this be ordered and from where? What would you call it? See picture #2 where it says to disconnect this.
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  #92  
Old 03-04-2011, 10:07 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolling187 View Post
Mine was very brittle and upon pulling the tube broke. Can this be ordered and from where? What would you call it? See picture #2 where it says to disconnect this.
Part # 13327503677. F-shaped connector or "support" in the bmw parts catalog. Buy from any dealership parts dept. or online here: www.getbmwparts.com. It costs $1-$2
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  #93  
Old 03-05-2011, 07:14 AM
rolling187 rolling187 is offline
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How about the hose that connects to the boot. It's the smaller vacuum hose that actually was dry rotted. Is there a trick in separated those? Thanks for all your help.
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  #94  
Old 03-05-2011, 07:52 AM
Starless Starless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolling187 View Post
How about the hose that connects to the boot. It's the smaller vacuum hose that actually was dry rotted. Is there a trick in separated those? Thanks for all your help.
I used a sharp knife (like drywall knife) or similar to carefully separate it by cutting and scraping it off.

Take a piece of that broken hose and go to any (closest) auto parts store and ask them for a foot of that diameter vacuum hose. Nothing special about it. Very simple.
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  #95  
Old 03-05-2011, 09:49 AM
rolling187 rolling187 is offline
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I appreciate all your help. Did you mention this was a pain in the arse? I will get it just slow moving tight spaces. What do you recommend for removing the clamps on the lower air intake boot. Might end up cutting them and align them better when putting them back in. Thanks bro.
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  #96  
Old 03-05-2011, 07:09 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolling187 View Post
I appreciate all your help. Did you mention this was a pain in the arse? I will get it just slow moving tight spaces. What do you recommend for removing the clamps on the lower air intake boot. Might end up cutting them and align them better when putting them back in. Thanks bro.
I recommend patience I tried 2 things: a long screwdriver and socket wrench with a long extension. As far as I remember, I had better luck with a socket wrench. Oh, and I had no problem removing this boot (which was easy), it was the re-installation that took some time...
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  #97  
Old 03-06-2011, 10:15 AM
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Scottji Scottji is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolling187 View Post
I appreciate all your help. Did you mention this was a pain in the arse? I will get it just slow moving tight spaces. What do you recommend for removing the clamps on the lower air intake boot. Might end up cutting them and align them better when putting them back in. Thanks bro.
I have a tiny 6mm closed-end wrench that seemed to be the best thing for me to use - I tried screwdrivers and ratchets. I think if you had one of those really small ratchets, it would work, but I didn't have a small one, so my ratchet wouldn't fit. The small 6mm wrench took some time, but stick with it and it will work. Also, I know BavAuto sells a flexible hose clamp driver, which is a designated 6mm end, which will fit most of the hose clamps on your car. You might be able to find something similar at Sears or Harbor Freight.
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  #98  
Old 03-06-2011, 01:23 PM
rolling187 rolling187 is offline
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Thanks. I managed to work past the clamps and working on putting things back together now. The lower vacuum hose clamp screw was turned upside down which made it really difficult to get a tool on. I hope it's easier than putting the upper OC hose on that almost got the best of me.

Starless one question relating to the vacuum hose coming off the "f" fitting coming of the intake hose? I have the vacuum tubing but don't remember where the other end goes? Can you remember where that other end goes?

Thanks for everyone's pain before me and will post my pains when finished.
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  #99  
Old 03-06-2011, 02:15 PM
rolling187 rolling187 is offline
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OOOPS I double posted. Didn't refresh to see my new post. Thanks....

Last edited by rolling187; 03-06-2011 at 02:16 PM.
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  #100  
Old 04-02-2011, 10:56 AM
Patman-TX Patman-TX is offline
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THANK YOU! This was a great DIY write up!!

I'm new here and to BMW's. I recently picked up a nice 2000 328i 5spd that had just ticked over to 100k and it was displaying the rough idle symptoms so I was pretty sure it needed this done. After having a buyers inspection done at a local independant BMW specialist they confirmed this as well as the oil filter housing gasket needing replaced. I have not gotten a Bentley manual yet as I'm hoping to do some horse trading with somebody / someplace for Audi TT or Mitsubishi 3000GT manuals but this writeup made it a breeze. My only hesitation was finding correct torque values which I did.

I would strongly sugest if you are going to do this project just go ahead and take care for the $6 gasket on the oil filter housing as it doesn't add much to the effort, solves a potential problem area that also pops up at 100k and it makes this project easier too!

I did a couple of things differently that may or may not help others.
-When I installed the CCV I installed the hose #1 to the intake first and left it hang free.
-I then preinstalled hose #2 fully to the CCV and fed it up through the intake opening as I installed the CCV. This was very easy to do and ensured I had the hidden end correctly seated.
-Once I got it through I clicked #2 in to place on the intake and that helped hold the CCV in place as I installed the bolts.
-Once it was mounted I connected the free end of hose #1.

Since I had a very slight seep at the oil filter housing combined with the line that returns to the dip stick being totally broken I had a bit of an oily mess and so I spent a couple hours cleaning the block, filter housing, alternator, PS bracket and surrounding areas. I also closely inspected each of the intake hoses for cracks and cleaned each of the removed parts well before re-install. Overall I have about 7 hours in the project and am very thankful for the excellent writeup Starless has created.
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