My CVV (Oil Separator) DIY Journey in Pictures

Hey guys, how can you tell if the CVV needs to be replaced? I do have oil consumption - about 1 qrt per 1000 - 1500 miles. There are no visible leaks.The car has 100K.

Also, is there any oil leakage during the replacement?

I had very minimal symptoms, rough idle could see the broken hose to the oil dipstick and a bit of oil on the side of the engine. I pulled several codes but only a couple returned after clearing and they were almost all vacuum related. I think depending how bad and where in the system the fail point(s) are you can get different symptoms.

No oil leakage during the CCV replacement and maybe a teaspoon when I changed the oil filter housing gasket.

As I understand it this is pretty much a by 100k item.

Originally Posted by ventsyv

Hey guys, how can you tell if the CVV needs to be replaced? I do have oil consumption - about 1 qrt per 1000 - 1500 miles. There are no visible leaks.The car has 100K.

Also, is there any oil leakage during the replacement?

Try opening the oil filler cap with the engine running. If there is noticeable suction, it needs to be replaced. There is minimal suction normally, but something more than minimal suction means probably a CCV problem. That's sort of a lot of oil consumption. That could be a sign, but could be something else.

Ok I'll give it a try. Thanks.

I just wanted to take a moment to thank anyone/everyone who contributed to Starless' original post here. I performed the CCV valve operation on my 04 330CIC about 3 weeks back, and could not have done it without 2 things.. 1) this forum, 2) these videos : http://blog.bavauto.com/bmw-e46/diy-...ilation-system . The 'theory' and photos were great, but being able to watch someone doing it was like having a friend in the garage with me. I've been meaning to pay this forward since I completed the job, so my apologies for being tardy. I actually also called up the bavauto guys and spoke to the nice fellow in the video who tolerated a few newbie questions from me as well. Starless also was nice enough to offer his help via email as well as a few other guys. So again, big huge thanks - I saved over $1k or more by doing it myself. Suggestions I have:

1) you don't need to remove the dipstick tube. It sucked to pull out and sucked to reinstall.
2) Take your time, label and baggie everything. You'll thank yourself later on.
3) get lots of lights, it's way too dark in the engine compartment.
4) Don't do it when your garage is 40 degrees, it makes for tough times on fat fingers in small places.
5) After you reconnect your battery, I did my job over 3 or 4 days when I had spare time, your BMW won't remember it's name any more. I used an OBDII reader to reset the computer, but it takes like 100 miles +/- for the computer to recheck the emissions.. and in turn to really know if you fixed the problem. BTW, I only found out I had this problem when the SES light wouldn't go off after 6 months.

You can do it. You will curse. You will wish you had some tool you don't have, but you can do it.

Originally Posted by TAKAFOOMI

You will wish you had some tool you don't have,...

...like a flexible hose clamp driver for the lower intake boot

Originally Posted by TAKAFOOMI

You can do it. You will curse. You will wish you had some tool you don't have, but you can do it.

Amen!

Alright getting ready to start this on Friday, my car as been having major issues if ran for awhile then sits at an idle for long i.e. driving on the interstate then having to stop in town, starts shaking, oil light flickers etc. Been told that it's the CCV, already ordered the part and hoping this fixes the problem. It is pulling codes stating the left bank is running lean, or fuel shut off on certain cylinders. Sound like the CCV is to blame?

Originally Posted by helo11

It is pulling codes stating the left bank is running lean, or fuel shut off on certain cylinders. Sound like the CCV is to blame?

Certainly can be, fuel shutoff means misfires. If your CVV is bad it will foul your plugs with oil. Make sure to remove them and check them. Best to replace them IMO.

Yea forgot to add that it had misfires, already replaced the plugs once this started happening and it runs 100 times better, just getting this issue oddly enough when the temp outside is above 90 so going to swap the ccv this weekend and hopefully that'll fix this and that damn SES light will go out

Oh and if I'm running the A/C it doesn't do it? Don't know if thats because of the higher idle speed, seems fine if you run at higher RPM's but driving around town is no fun in this car......

Ok got it all out and I'm in process of putting all back together, however I needed to get some parts that fallen through to the skid plate when I removed the skid plate this is what I found, what the heck is this and where did come from?

That's your idler pulley. Look at your pulleys closely. One is broken.

I'll add a link for reference in a sec with a pic, just need to find the thread. This happen to someone within the last couple weeks.

Edit: Here ya go

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=568291

Yup thats it!! Ok any suggestions on where to get one? Looks like it must have just happened the belt has no grooves or anything...

Online or if you are in a hurry, run to the dealership in another car if one is available.

Edit: Link I posted wont work. This is the OEM part #11281738605

Try this site if you're ordering it online: http://www.autohausaz.com/index.html

i need to revove the intake manifold can anyone here send me the etk removal and installation of the manifold please . thanx in advance

You mean tis? It's online now. Here: http://tis.spaghetticoder.org
Go to engine--manifold--removal
Good luck, let us know!

Wow. I just ran into this older CCV DIY and just loved the annotated pictures!

I added a link to the classic CCV threads:

- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1) & a video of oil separator quacking chubacca noise (1) & vacuum leaks due to holes in one or more of the five CCV hoses (1) (2) (3) or frozen or torn diaphragms (1) & a clogged CCV (1) causing pressure in the crankcase and smoke in the exhaust necessitating CCV system overhaul (M54,M54,M54,M54, & M54 observations) (M52,M52) (M52TU) (M62,M62) ('99 528i) ('98 528i); usually replaced with the insulated CCV upgrade (1).

have x5 2004....i cannot for the life of me get the upper hose #2 in you photo to attach...it does through this weird opening in the manifold...could really use some help here.

I had that issue, try attaching it first up top then to the CCV, might have to rotate the CCV a little. Worked for me....

Hi guys new here trying to get somemore heIp i think my cvv is going bad but unsure 1 member here thinks so did yours make this noise to.

I had to do this DIY for the second time, and I found it to be a little easier the second time around.

I think it would be much easier if one did the oil separator DIY and the oil housing gasket at the same time. This would give both repairs plenty of room.

I don't know if this has been mentioned but putting the power steering reservoir to the side gives you more room to assemble to oil separator hoses.



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I referred to this thread a few times even though I had done this repair before. Thanks to all who contributed, especially OP.

Recently we came up with tests and modifications for the dipstick guide tube portion of a CCV test & repair:
- How to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube to prevent CCV vent clogs (1)

This is totally diy possible with this video http://blog.bavauto.com/8003/diy-vid...lation-system/

With one freaking exception...

I recently purchased the CCV kit from BAM Autoparts and the the new OS outlet part was smaller than the OS I removed.

Let me explain..

After trying to attach the new hose to the outlet portion of the OS (top part of OS facing front of car) the hose would not slide in, ergo, impossible to twist and lock.

I had the old hose and old OS removed and those 2 parts fit perfectly and easily slid in and can rotate to lock into place.

The new hose and the old OS also did the same.

That's when I realized that the new OS was the culprit.

Everything else on the OS fit just right, just that top part of the OS. I struggled so much that I broke the freaking hose, trying to make it fit.


SUPER PISSSSSED.

Originally Posted by teamfalcon

This is totally diy possible with this video http://blog.bavauto.com/8003/diy-vid...lation-system/

With one freaking exception...

I recently purchased the CCV kit from BAM Autoparts and the the new OS outlet part was smaller than the OS I removed.

Let me explain..

After trying to attach the new hose to the outlet portion of the OS (top part of OS facing front of car) the hose would not slide in, ergo, impossible to twist and lock.

I had the old hose and old OS removed and those 2 parts fit perfectly and easily slid in and can rotate to lock into place.

The new hose and the old OS also did the same.

That's when I realized that the new OS was the culprit.

Everything else on the OS fit just right, just that top part of the OS. I struggled so much that I broke the freaking hose, trying to make it fit.


SUPER PISSSSSED.

Was that an aftermarket kit? It's important to use OE on deals like this to make sure things fit.