My CVV (Oil Separator) DIY Journey in Pictures

Yeah.....it was aftermarket....

bastards.....

i am new to this forum but i have just replaced my ccv,my only worry is hose 2 found it very difficult to push on let alone rotate it to lock it in place,it is pushed completely on but my question is will any pressure start to force the pipe off.hose 2 is the one that runs thru the manifold,would appreciate an answer on this as may have to redo,thanks

Originally Posted by Ssparky

i am new to this forum but i have just replaced my ccv,my only worry is hose 2 found it very difficult to push on let alone rotate it to lock it in place,it is pushed completely on but my question is will any pressure start to force the pipe off.hose 2 is the one that runs thru the manifold,would appreciate an answer on this as may have to redo,thanks

I am not sure what you mean by the "Hose 2". Are you going by the numbers in the posted diagram? If so then you are talking about the vent pipe (that runs between the valve cover to Oil Separator). But that hose doesn't have to turn. It just clicks in to its place.
The only hose that needs to be rotated (about 90 degrees) is the connecting hose(line). This is the 3-way line. This line does NOT click onto its place. It must be rotated. And if not rotated, then you won't be able to complete the installation.

All other hoses click(snap whatever you call it). If done properly, you need to hear a distinct clicking noise when it locks in.

If you bought an aftermarket kit, you will have this problem where the hoses don't fit perfectly. I bought an aftermarket kit first and some of the hoses (3-way connecting hose to be specific) did not connect to its place on the Oil Separator.
I had to return them all and got OEM stuff.
For important DIYs like this one, pay a little more and get OEM stuff. It is not worth saving $50...

Originally Posted by smolck

you have un-metered air getting in the system. Somewhere you probably have a vacuum leak.

What exactly is the difference between unmetered air and a vacuum leak?

Is unmetered air any air that gets in AFTER the MAF?

Isn't that the same as a vacuum leak?

Even if it's not the same, wouldn't the SYMPTOMS be the same?

Just curious ...

Hi everyone. I am new here and like some of you i have a problem that i look forward to be resolved or at least pin pointed.

I had oil separator problem because of my short trips+cold weather+parked outside.
I did above for the last 6 months.
It resulted whole oil separator getting wet with water and clogged up all the way up to the valve cover.

I pulled the valve cover off and saw it did not go further then the cover its self, valves looked OK.
I pulled every hose that goes to oil separator and cleaned all the goo from hoses and the separator its self including the orange membrane inside the separator.

Put everything back/start the car but noise did not go away.
It sounds very bad, as if something got rusted inside and knocks or tumbles at the rate of engine speed.

Warming up does not change the sound.
Dead cold, does not change the sound.

Here is youtube video of the sound.



Can someone tell me what damage might have been done because of faulty oil separator.
Can damage be inside the head ? What would it be and how complicated would it be to fix it ?


Thanks in advance, hope to get some answers.
God BLess

Originally Posted by tonycst

Hi everyone. I am new here and like some of you i have a problem that i look forward to be resolved or at least pin pointed.

I had oil separator problem because of my short trips+cold weather+parked outside.
I did above for the last 6 months.
It resulted whole oil separator getting wet with water and clogged up all the way up to the valve cover.

I pulled the valve cover off and saw it did not go further then the cover its self, valves looked OK.
I pulled every hose that goes to oil separator and cleaned all the goo from hoses and the separator its self including the orange membrane inside the separator.

Put everything back/start the car but noise did not go away.
It sounds very bad, as if something got rusted inside and knocks or tumbles at the rate of engine speed.

Warming up does not change the sound.
Dead cold, does not change the sound.

Here is youtube video of the sound.



Can someone tell me what damage might have been done because of faulty oil separator.
Can damage be inside the head ? What would it be and how complicated would it be to fix it ?


Thanks in advance, hope to get some answers.
God BLess

That sound really didn't seem to have anything to do with CVV and related hoses to me.
And you got in there to remove all the hoses and the valve and put them all back instead of replacing them? (Especially the oil separator valve) You should have really replaced them.

Also you should have started a new thread for this instead of following another one. But since you are already here, my advice to you is that remove the belt (both serpetine and A/C) and run the car (when the engine is cold and do not run more then a minute) to see if the noise is coming from the belt/pulley system. Depending on the result, we continue...

I did not replace oil separator or any tubes leading to it, i just cleaned yellow gunk from them and the separator (took it apart to clean membrane).

What will happen if i remove belts and run car for few seconds, AC will not work and water will no pump ?
Need some details on that, dont want to follow advice without knowing what will result taking belts off (didnt think it was possible to run the car without belts at all)

Interesting though thou

Thanks for reply and sorry for not starting new thread, didnt want to clog up the forum with my problems.

Originally Posted by tonycst

I did not replace oil separator or any tubes leading to it, i just cleaned yellow gunk from them and the separator (took it apart to clean membrane).

What will happen if i remove belts and run car for few seconds, AC will not work and water will no pump ?
Need some details on that, dont want to follow advice without knowing what will result taking belts off (didnt think it was possible to run the car without belts at all)

Interesting though thou

Thanks for reply and sorry for not starting new thread, didnt want to clog up the forum with my problems.

You are not clogging up the forum. The forum is there to help people.

I asked you to remove the belts and run the car to see if the noise would go away. If it does, then you know it is coming from the belt/pulley system which you need to investigate more.
If the noise doesn't go away, then it means it is coming from somewhere else.
It is just a step to diagnose the issue. You may elect to take other actions. This is what I would do.
Running the car w/o belt for a minute (even more) won't hurt anything as long as the car is cold and you don't keep reving it up. Yes, you water pump, alternator, power steering and a/c compressor will not work. No problem as long as it is a quick run.

Thanks. I will do try as soon as i get home from work.
Sorry, had to make sure engine wont blow up without belts (as long as i stick to short time frame)

Ok i removed both belts and ran car for like 10-20 seconds (noise would start 1 second after engine starts) and the noise was gone.
I reinstalled AC belt and started again, no noise.
What does that tell you ?
What should be my next stem to help diagnosis ?
Thanks

Originally Posted by tonycst

Ok i removed both belts and ran car for like 10-20 seconds (noise would start 1 second after engine starts) and the noise was gone.
I reinstalled AC belt and started again, no noise.
What does that tell you ?
What should be my next stem to help diagnosis ?
Thanks

You should really start a new thread for all this. It is still not too late. You can start a new thread and carry all of your responses into a single post and then come erase all these entries here. If you do so, I will carry my replies to your new thread as well.

Anyways, noise starts and gone within a second sounds strange, There shouldn't have any noise. Did you do this more than once to make sure?

If you didn't put the car back together, I would record the sound and post (as you did previously) here so others could see and make comment. Your problem here is that you are positing on a thread that was started a long time ago and nobody realizes that you came here to look for help for your issue.

Anyways, did you try rolling the pulleys in the belt system to see if any of them make any noise while spinning? You won't be able to spin all of them obviously. You can spin the tensioner, idler pulley and alternator freely.

Consider moving this thread. You can ask the moderator for help. He may move all the related posts you made in the past two days into a new thread

Dude, God and you are all the help i need.
Thanks to your efforts i was able (i think) to pin point the 2 possible issues.
Noise starts after a second of a cold start and continues forever (you misunderstood me there)

Anyway, what i found was
Clutch fan making noise (that is similar to what i hear while car is running) when i move it. It seems loose for some reasons.
There is no clutch fan, i have electric fan, but the setup is still there and its loose.

I also found that power steering pump (the thing which belt rotates) moves in and out of the power steering pump very little but does not move sideways at all. (maybe it should be like that ?)
No power steering leaks.
No oil leaks.

I am 95% sure its the clutch fan assembly thing, but what is involved into repairing it, replacement of a whole assembly or there is a gasket that was damaged by moisture ?
Not sure what i will see there once i open it.

Thanks allot, cant wait for your perhaps last response solving the problem

I don't know how it might be coming from the fan clutch You do not have it. I checked the video once again. You do not have the fan clutch. You have the water pump pulley bolt sicking out and NO fan-clutch is attached.

Describe which part do you think is the source of the noise? You may take a picture and point it out...

The part to which fan clutch is attached normally. Its right in front of the electric fan
http://www.bmpdesign.com/images/tech...t_pulley10.jpg
the top left with a B on it.
That one is loose.
The bottom right is moving back and forth very little, but not sideways. Everything else is tight.

Originally Posted by tonycst

The part to which fan clutch is attached normally. Its right in front of the electric fan
http://www.bmpdesign.com/images/tech...t_pulley10.jpg
the top left with a B on it.
That one is loose.
The bottom right is moving back and forth very little, but not sideways. Everything else is tight.

That is NOT part of the fan clutch. It is the water pump pulley. It is just a plastic pulley directly attached to the water pump so the belt can run the water pump.
Is that pulley loose? Or is it making noise? If the pulley isn't loose, it may be the case that the water pump itself is making the noise. You must verify that somehow. If your water pump is on its way out, it must be replaced immediately.

The one in the bottom right is the power steering pump pulley. That one is metal. It should NOT move. Make sure the bolts are tight. If that is not the issue then something might be wrong with it. You gotta find out...

Replace WP for starters
Consider getting a metal pulley if you don't already have one.

Yes. I checked the water pump and found it to be loose in the inside.
The middle part of the water pump is moving while pulley and the other end are stationary.
I assume it should not be loose at all.
Correct me if am wrong.

Here is a video where i show what water pump does after i removed it.

If it is water pump, what brand would you recommend ?
I have Graf/URO/GMB/Geba all these seem to have metal components. Others seem to have plastic components but cost around $60 where as others are from $54 down to $35
APA aluminum pulley $43

Originally Posted by tonycst

Yes. I checked the water pump and found it to be loose in the inside.
The middle part of the water pump is moving while pulley and the other end are stationary.
I assume it should not be loose at all.
Correct me if am wrong.

Here is a video where i show what water pump does after i removed it.

If it is water pump, what brand would you recommend ?
I have Graf/URO/GMB/Geba all these seem to have metal components. Others seem to have plastic components but cost around $60 where as others are from $54 down to $35
APA aluminum pulley $43

Replace the WP. I went with a Graf, which was advertised to have a metal impeller. No problems with it after around 50k miles. You can find them for anywhere from $50-$70. If you want to go big-time, go with the Stewart, although it's 2-3x the price of the Graf and probably unnecessary for normal cooling needs. A metal pulley is probably worth the extra $10 over OE for some cheap insurance. While it's pretty rare that the OEM will crack, if it does crack it can take your belts, fan blades, and god knows what else with it.

Avoid Uro parts if you can at all help it. I've given Uro brand parts a shot on two occasions, and deeply regretted it on both occasions. I will not buy Uro parts any more.

Those considering full CCV rehab (or any part thereof) may wanna have a look at this semi-hidden gem:

http://www.germanautosolutions.com/b...ct_m54_ccv.php

Originally Posted by tonycst

If it is water pump, what brand would you recommend ?
I have Graf/URO/GMB/Geba all these seem to have metal components. Others seem to have plastic components but cost around $60 where as others are from $54 down to $35
APA aluminum pulley $43

I used original WP first (with composite impeller), and it started leaking within a week. Then I returned it and got Graff (with metal impeller). It's been 3.5 years, No problem so far...

Originally Posted by Mark in TX

Those considering full CCV rehab (or any part thereof) may wanna have a look at this semi-hidden gem:

http://www.germanautosolutions.com/b...ct_m54_ccv.php

Brilliant find! Thanks for posting something interesting.

Graf is what i ordered. Thanks

I am adding some info that will help fix or prevent another oil leak during the CCV DIY.

I found another oil leak at the hollow bolt/banjo bolt at the very rear of the oil filter housing base assy. This is only visible during the CCV job and is not the same leak as the famous oil housing gasket.

I got lucky and had some of these in my parts bin.

Item 10 (2 ea) on the oil filter housing diagram needs replacing while you are in there.

You will need 2ea 32 41 1 093 596 gasket rings (crush washers).
These are same ones used at the other end of this oil hose that goes to the Vanos.

Go ahead and order several of these, they are used in other places.

Also, If your lower intake hose (tube elbow) has more than 60k on it get a new one.
Also get a throttle body gasket.
Remove and clean the DISA and the idle control valve too.

How do you clean a DISA?

Not really appropriate.

Originally Posted by GoForthFast

How do you clean a DISA?

Just remove it and clean around the pivot points for the flapper.
Gunk builds up at some point and limits the movement of the flap.