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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 12-10-2009, 05:05 PM
kode302 kode302 is offline
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Question HELP!!Cold air blowing out of heater vents!!

I just placed the thermostat in my 93 318i sedan and i turn the heater on and have the setting to red and the temp all the way to warm with the blower on high. The car only blows cool air. I got it to blow somewhat luke warm air after revving the engine for like five minutes to like 2500 rpms. Then if i drive after that it wont warm anymore, it just kinda cools back down on the air. Help please!! Thanx in advance.
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  #2  
Old 12-10-2009, 07:32 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Sounds like there is still air in the system. Sometimes it takes multiple attempts. Try elevating the front of the car about 8-10 inches. Sometimes that makes it a little easier.
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1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
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  #3  
Old 12-10-2009, 07:47 PM
kode302 kode302 is offline
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Thanx, i will. I kinda thought, but i just wanted to ask around. I appreciate it!!
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  #4  
Old 12-10-2009, 10:51 PM
E36Andy E36Andy is offline
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i still dont understand the bleeding process... when i pour coolant into the expansion tank i need to fill it all the way to the top for bubbles to start coming out of the bleed screw. but then once the bubbles are gone i still have coolant filled to the brim. WTF!
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  #5  
Old 12-10-2009, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by E36Andy View Post
i still dont understand the bleeding process... when i pour coolant into the expansion tank i need to fill it all the way to the top for bubbles to start coming out of the bleed screw. but then once the bubbles are gone i still have coolant filled to the brim. WTF!
wait what? what are you doin?
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  #6  
Old 12-11-2009, 09:14 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Refilling cooling system in an E36:

(1) Elevate front end of car (ramps or jack stands)

(2) Connect all hoses, secure anything that was removed (like the thermostat housing)

(3) Remove bleeder plug on radiator...it's right alongside the expansion tank filler neck.

(4) SLOWLY (I can't emphasize that enough) pour 50/50 coolant mix or straight antifreeze into the expansion tank. Pour it fast and you will definitely trap air in the system.

(5) If using the 50/50 mix (do the mixing yourself...they're charging you ~$6/gallon for WATER) continue filling SLOWLY until the expansion tank is FULL and coolant is coming out of the bleeder hole. If using straight antifreeze, pour about 3/4 of the gallon in, then switch to water. MUCH simpler to mix 50/50 and use that. The idea is to let the incoming coolant force as much air out of the system as possible. It is pushing the air past that tiny bleed hole in the thermostat, so it's going to take quite a while.

(6) When the expansion tank is full and no more bubbles are coming out of the bleed hole in the radiator, put the cap on the expansion tank, start the engine, set the heater controls to full hot, set the fan to #2 and let the engine run at an elevated throttle setting (~2500 rpm) until the bubbles stop in the bleed hole. This could take up to 30 minutes or even more if the ambient temperature is low. Check for leaks while it warms up. Keep an eye on the temp gauge. It may take a long time to reach the "needle straight up". If it goes PAST that, watch it carefully so that it doesn't swing past the 3/4 mark. It may swing toward high, then drop back...mine did. Once you get no more bubbles, replace the bleeder screw and turn off the engine. Allow it to cool (at least two hours) then carefully remove the cap and check the coolant level. Add coolant as needed, then take it for a drive. Keep a watchful eye on the temp gauge. If it stays low, or suddenly swings toward hot, you still have air in the system. . It took me three tries to get all the air out of Bebe's cooling system after replacing the water pump and radiator. It's an unbelievable pain in the rear to do....make you wonder how they did it when they built the car! I can't imagine them standing around nursing coolant into the tank for half an hour!

If someone knows a better way to do this POST IT. I'd love to see it.
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BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?


Last edited by hornhospital; 12-11-2009 at 09:25 AM.
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  #7  
Old 12-11-2009, 09:27 AM
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TnT817 TnT817 is offline
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They use a pump at shops to do it.
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  #8  
Old 12-11-2009, 09:41 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Where do they attach the pump?
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?


Last edited by hornhospital; 12-11-2009 at 09:43 AM. Reason: can't spell!
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  #9  
Old 12-11-2009, 09:44 AM
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Mr Gusta Mr Gusta is offline
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to the radiator where the cap goes
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  #10  
Old 12-11-2009, 11:30 AM
kode302 kode302 is offline
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Thanx for all the helpful tips everybody..ill try it tommorow.
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  #11  
Old 12-11-2009, 01:45 PM
Crashj Crashj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
****(5) If using the 50/50 mix (do the mixing yourself...they're charging you ~$6/gallon for WATER) ****
Good tips on filling. You are right about the cost of 50/50 mix. What I have always done is keep an empty antifreeze container. Fill it half full with distilled water. (I used tap water in the past; now I know better) Fill it the rest of the way with new antifreeze. Use a funnel. Grab the now half empty container of new antifreeze and fill it to the top with distilled water. Mark both containers with "50/50" and the date.
Now you have enough to do the job, plus a premixed container to carry along. If you're in Yurp or C*N*D*, do it in litres.
"Half full or half empty?"
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  #12  
Old 12-13-2009, 02:43 PM
E36Andy E36Andy is offline
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I still dont get it... If you fill the expansion tank to the brim with coolant then close the cap and let it run wont there be toooo much coolant in the system? And how does it just disappear? You said we have to add coolant after we let it idle for 30 min or whatever.
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  #13  
Old 12-13-2009, 03:38 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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It doesn't disappear, it get's draw into the system as it cools. After the "fill-cap-bubble-insert bleeder plug-cool" cycle, the coolant will have dropped in the expansion tank. If you're lucky, it ends up right on the "full" mark when cold. Expect to have to do it more than once....BT-DT
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #14  
Old 12-13-2009, 03:54 PM
E36Andy E36Andy is offline
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Well I bled my system 3 times in the last couple weeks cause im having the same problem and barely any bubbles come out. I did a full flush last week and litrally like 5 bubbles came out..... wtf....
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  #15  
Old 12-13-2009, 03:55 PM
E36Andy E36Andy is offline
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So i had to use a hospital pump that i happen to have to suck the remaining coolant out. (it was filled to the brim)
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  #16  
Old 12-13-2009, 04:10 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Temp gauge running in the middle 100% of the time after warmed up? Do you have heat from the vents when you want it? If no on either of those, you still have air in the system.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #17  
Old 12-22-2009, 08:57 PM
kode302 kode302 is offline
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well i did it right and it blew warm for a bit. Then a few days later i noticed a small leak. It was dripping onto the rear main seal section from above. I checked the connections for the heater core and nothing. Any idea if there is a hose that maybe leaking that runs under the intake manifold?
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2010, 07:26 PM
RunTriz RunTriz is offline
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Location: Bangor Maine
 
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Mein Auto: 1997 318IS
plz help similar problem. Heat only at lower speeds with a high engine temp. Then highway speeds I have little to no heat and super low like bottomed out engine temps. Freezing here lately as well. I presume its the Tstat is busted & stuck open like halfway? Also I thought it could be the heater blower motor because sometimes (most of the time now) There is just no heat or cold air at all blowing out of the vents. The climate control unit either works perfectly at all settings, or there is just no air coming out regardless of settings, including high so i guess it cant be FSU? It was making that high pitched whirring sound for a while with the heat on ... plz help!
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  #19  
Old 01-03-2010, 07:59 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RunTriz View Post
plz help similar problem. Heat only at lower speeds with a high engine temp. Then highway speeds I have little to no heat and super low like bottomed out engine temps. Freezing here lately as well. I presume its the Tstat is busted & stuck open like halfway? Also I thought it could be the heater blower motor because sometimes (most of the time now) There is just no heat or cold air at all blowing out of the vents. The climate control unit either works perfectly at all settings, or there is just no air coming out regardless of settings, including high so i guess it cant be FSU? It was making that high pitched whirring sound for a while with the heat on ... plz help!
Sounds like T-stat and blower motor. T-stat stuck open causing the loss of actual heat and the blower motor not spinning thereby losing air through the vents. The blower motor may spin when the car is just started, but after being on for a short while, locks up.

T-stat replacement is not bad at all (other than the bleeding headache). I haven't replaced a blower motor, but hear it's not the most fun.

Good luck.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #20  
Old 01-03-2010, 09:20 PM
CARLINA INC. CARLINA INC. is offline
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Mein Auto: 93 318is
I had the same problem.

I changed the radiator in my wife's car and then the heater would not blow cold air. I read the manual and it said that it was a hot water switch or a leak in the cooling system. It ended up being a leak and it was coming from the radiator cap. I replaced the radiator cap and the problem was fixed instantly. Hope this helps.
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