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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-01-2010, 10:38 AM
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AlboBMW AlboBMW is offline
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DIY: Oil Filter Housing Gasket, Idler Pulley, Oil pipe

I have had an oil leak around the oil housing, and I've also noticed that oil feeder pipe to VANOS has been leaking, as it was drenched in oil.

The problem which I didn't solve in this DIY was the noise coming from the belts. Initially I thought it would be the idler pulley, but the noise did not go away.
Here's a video of the noise:


This DIY maybe helps somebody who has the same problem.

This is not a DIY you do as your first DIY, as it has many components which you should already be familiar.


Tools:
  • Sockets: 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 16mm
  • Wrenches, 1 1/4 inch, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 36mm
  • Other various parts, maybe a pry bar, lubricant.

Parts:
  • Idler pulley 11281738605
  • Washers 007603-014106 (need 4 or two, read below)
  • Gasket for oil filer housing 11421719855
  • Oil filter and oil if you are going to change your oil too.
  • Oil pipe to VANOS 11361705532

Work performed on a 2001 325i, with automatic transmission.


__________________________________________________ __________________________


Disconnect the negative terminal of your battery.

Also raise the front of your car because it will be help you later on. Put the car on jack stands.

1. Remove the air intake passage which connects to your air box.
2. Remove the air box.




....
3. Remove the fan shroud. For some of you this may be an easy step, but I decided to document it for somebody like me who needs even the most minuscule details.



4. Those with automatic tranny will have to remove the fan nut, but to have more room I decided to remove the left side only of the upper coolant hose.


5. Use a 1 1/4 wrench to remove the fan.



Remove the power steering reservoir holding and put it to the side. I think I misspelled the word 'reservoir' in the picture.



------------
6. Remove the dust caps.


--------------

7. De-tension the belt. Then remove the belt from the idler pulley. If you are re-using the belt, mark the direction of the movement, and install it the in the same direction.




If you are only replacing the idler pulley only, stop here, and install by reversing the steps.

------------------------





Alternator is now out.



---------------------
Now loosen the oil filter cap with a 36mm socket, this will allow the oil to drain completely in the pan. I didn't take a pic of this step.

Now we need to remove the power steering pump (PSP). The PSP has three nuts, 13mm, two on opposite sides on top, and one on the bottom. The one on the bottom you can get to if you hahve raised your car. You can get to it from the top or bottom.




Just put the PSP on the side, out of you way. The oil filter housing is now exposed.

--------------------
Remove the oil pipe feeder to VANOS. This hose connects the oil filter housing (OFH) and the VANOS. If you are not replacing the oil pipe, then just remove the bottom side. You will need two new washers though.



Now remove the nuts which hold the OFH in.






Installation.
By now you should be very familiar with the process, and the installation is the reverse of this DIY.

If anybody knows why my car makes that noise in the video, please tell me.


PS: If you remove the upper coolant hose, be sure to bleed the system before starting the car. To bleed it: loosen bleeder screw on expansion tank, turn heater on to 91, then pour coolant or distilled water slowly until you see it coming out of the bleeder screw. Tighten it and you're done.

Last edited by AlboBMW; 01-01-2010 at 01:00 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-01-2010, 10:55 AM
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smolck smolck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlboBMW View Post
coming soon.......
AWESOME! I need to replace mine too.
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  #3  
Old 01-01-2010, 11:15 AM
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AlboBMW AlboBMW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smolck View Post
AWESOME! I need to replace mine too.
i was half way writing it, and instead of clicking "preview" I clicked 'submit.'
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  #4  
Old 01-01-2010, 12:13 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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WOW! Great write-up! I keep this one in mind as my future diy project! Nice pictures and instructions!

Edit: just do us a favour - link it to the wiki.

Edit 2: question, some people say the alternator is a bitch to install back, problematic to align it or something like that...did you experience that?

Last edited by Starless; 01-01-2010 at 12:27 PM.
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  #5  
Old 01-01-2010, 12:59 PM
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golforcars325i golforcars325i is offline
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Great work........ bookmarked for future reference!
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Old 01-01-2010, 01:03 PM
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AlboBMW AlboBMW is offline
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Quote:
Edit 2: question, some people say the alternator is a bitch to install back, problematic to align it or something like that...did you experience that?
No. I had a harder time installing the fan than the alternator. Align the bottom nut first, then insert the top on to hold it in. Wiggle and tighten the bottom one, until it catches the threads. use the socket and your hands to do this.
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  #7  
Old 01-01-2010, 01:13 PM
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mikevaquez mikevaquez is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starless View Post
WOW! Great write-up! I keep this one in mind as my future diy project! Nice pictures and instructions!

Edit: just do us a favour - link it to the wiki.

Edit 2: question, some people say the alternator is a bitch to install back, problematic to align it or something like that...did you experience that?

+1 It has a lot of useful information.
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  #8  
Old 01-01-2010, 01:53 PM
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smolck smolck is offline
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Way to go. Wow, that is rather a lot more work than I thought. I think I will wait for a warm day and clean my engine top to bottom as well. Great DIY!
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  #9  
Old 01-01-2010, 08:39 PM
QAfred QAfred is offline
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One of the other pulley's or waterpump?

It sounds like it might be one of your other pulley's or the water pump? Advance auto parts sells the bottom pulley too- the one for your AC unit- even though it is probably not that pulley whining. I think it is the top tenisioner pulley or pump.

IF you change the bottom one too-just pull the old one and when you take it to Advance ask for a pulley for a 2000 323I- it is the same pulley on all models, but not listed for 2004 325CI or 2001 330CI, as I found out, but since I changed it once on my 323i I knew they had it - even though they said I needed to order the entire tensioner to get that pulley for my 325 or 330?.

Last edited by KrisL; 01-01-2010 at 09:02 PM.
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  #10  
Old 01-01-2010, 09:52 PM
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daydreamer69 daydreamer69 is offline
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+1 for wiki!
great close up pics & details
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  #11  
Old 01-01-2010, 10:48 PM
airboy86 airboy86 is offline
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is it just me or did that sound like "marbles rattling in a tin can"? therefore vanos needs replacing?
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  #12  
Old 01-02-2010, 01:36 AM
Reekinghavoc702 Reekinghavoc702 is offline
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how long of a job was this?? im gonna have to do mine this sunday because mine just went out.
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  #13  
Old 01-29-2010, 01:45 PM
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MicahO MicahO is offline
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Great DIY - I wasn't online at the first of the year when it was posted. That oil filter housing gasket went on my 525iT many years ago. It's a pita to get in there and swap.

The sound in the video - sounds like the noise my DISA made when it had a busted shaft - the flapper just rattled back and forth and sounded like marbles in the intake. have you unplugged the wiring harness from the DISA valve to see if the noise stops?
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  #14  
Old 01-29-2010, 10:14 PM
genuity genuity is offline
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Did you use any sealant for where the oil filter housing seals with the block? Is the gasket enough? I just want to never see a leak from here ever again. Cleaning up the mess it made has been a real biach. There's still a ton under my intake manifold
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  #15  
Old 01-30-2010, 05:58 AM
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G. P. Burdell G. P. Burdell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genuity View Post
Did you use any sealant for where the oil filter housing seals with the block? Is the gasket enough? I just want to never see a leak from here ever again.
The gasket should be enough to prevent oil seepage for quite a while. I wouldn't want to risk getting the sealant into the oil passages.
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  #16  
Old 01-30-2010, 08:47 AM
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AlboBMW AlboBMW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G. P. Burdell View Post
The gasket should be enough to prevent oil seepage for quite a while. I wouldn't want to risk getting the sealant into the oil passages.
+1


Also the noise in the video is caused by a bad tensioner pulley. Since I have the mechanical one, and BMW stopped selling it, I am waiting to replace it with the hydraulic one due to costing $100.

Cleaning the ribbed part of the engine was tedious.
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Old 02-13-2010, 02:59 PM
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I have the same noise now and was looking for an answer to fix this. Just started this winter.
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  #18  
Old 02-13-2010, 03:15 PM
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AlboBMW AlboBMW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikevaquez View Post
I have the same noise now and was looking for an answer to fix this. Just started this winter.
Take your belt off and spin the pulleys to see which one is making the noise. The idler pulley and tensioner pulleys should not spin freely.
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Old 04-02-2010, 03:12 PM
mujjuman mujjuman is offline
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very nice. thanks for the DIY
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  #20  
Old 04-05-2010, 02:12 PM
moapys moapys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlboBMW View Post
Take your belt off and spin the pulleys to see which one is making the noise. The idler pulley and tensioner pulleys should not spin freely.
AlboBMW - in your post about checking for whine on the pulleys/tensioners: I plan to give them a spin-and-listen this weekend ; I was a bit unclear on your guidance... When rotated, they SHOULD spin easily - e.g. bike wheel bearing - or should NOT spin easily (ala tight, heavily greased large vehicle bearing)? THX for clarifying.
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  #21  
Old 04-05-2010, 02:21 PM
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AlboBMW AlboBMW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moapys View Post
AlboBMW - in your post about checking for whine on the pulleys/tensioners: I plan to give them a spin-and-listen this weekend ; I was a bit unclear on your guidance... When rotated, they SHOULD spin easily - e.g. bike wheel bearing - or should NOT spin easily (ala tight, heavily greased large vehicle bearing)? THX for clarifying.
They should be somewhat tight, but not unmovable. Here's a concise description:
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Old 04-09-2010, 07:34 AM
moapys moapys is offline
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Got it; 'nothing unusual...just typical "proper bearing" feel/sound. I guess I'll be facing the hydraulic vs mechanical tensioner issue - yippee.
Thanks again for going above-and-beyond with feedback, and embedding the video .
We all appreciate the thorough inputs, chief!
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  #23  
Old 08-07-2010, 04:31 PM
Variocam Variocam is offline
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Thanks for the fantastic write-up. I'm in the middle of the job now (got the oil filter housing off a few minutes ago). It's actually a pretty easy job. One question - does anybody know the torque values for the important bolts, particularly the six that hold the oil filter housing to the engine block? These were fairly tight on my car. Thanks.
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Old 08-07-2010, 06:08 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Variocam View Post
Thanks for the fantastic write-up. I'm in the middle of the job now (got the oil filter housing off a few minutes ago). It's actually a pretty easy job. One question - does anybody know the torque values for the important bolts, particularly the six that hold the oil filter housing to the engine block? These were fairly tight on my car. Thanks.
M8 bolts, 22 Nm torque
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  #25  
Old 08-07-2010, 06:52 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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FWIW, I replaced my E39 alternator earlier this week (DIY writeup here) but the one torque figure I couldn't find in the Bentleys was for the alternator bracket bolts.

Did you get a torque figure for yours?
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