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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-21-2016, 03:57 AM
Jgbrannan Jgbrannan is offline
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Location: New Canaan, CT
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 1995 325i Convertible
New Old 1995 325I Vert - 5 years stored outside - Not starting

Hi Forum experts. I have been well informed by the searching on the forum.. thanks for all the posts.
So - Here is where we are. We acquired a 1995 that has not been started since 2011. 5 years. Poster listed "ran when parked" and this was his daughters car when she left the country, never to return and drive it.
325I Convertible..Automatic. Had to flat bed it to my house. It is Loaded with all options. Battery was listed as Dead Dead Dead. It was.
I replaced the battery, and also got it to turn over with starting fluid after checking all fluid levels.

It had 1/2 tank of old gas. I drained that out using the info from the forums and from Pelican. I drained it all out by attaching a fuel hose after detaching the fuel pump, then jumpered the 30/87 relay, and it worked like a charm. I put back on new hose and clamps.

Old fuel out - new 93 Octane in, with a limited amount of fuel component cleaner. (not seafoam yet.) After several cans of starting liquid and one of choke cleaner, I was able to get the car to run for 10 - 15 minutes, but only when using the fluids through the air intake chamber. When it runs - it sounds fine.

BUT - I can not get it to run, on it's own capacity, with some exception. After starting fluid, sometimes, it will idle low, bumpy, at about 300-400 RPMs, then die. It will do this for maybe 5 seconds or 10 seconds - after all fluid is burned out of the air intake. Sometimes, it will even start, but low idle like 200-400 rpms, then die after 5-10 seconds.

My opinion, after several hours today - is it seems like the fuel filter needs to be swapped out next. It appears older, but so does most of the components.
Mileage is 94,000 - original documented miles.

The water pump, radiator, belts, Convertible top, - all were replaced at 92,000 - 93,000 miles, 5 years ago

SO - It seems like there is no fuel getting to the spark plugs, in my opinion.
Could it be clogged injectors?
Do I need to check the fuel line at the Fuel Bar, next?

Due to running sweetly on starting fluid and choke fluid, it does not seem like a spark plug issue.
All electrical is working in the car. Seat warmers - power mirrors, all lights, inside and out, and the engine bay looks very clean, compared to the outside of the car, which was stored outside all this time. Covered with a light to heavy moss like algea, but it comes off, when worked with goJo or gasoline.

Let me know your opinions - I welcome those.

Here are the pics, as I bought it.
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  #2  
Old 04-21-2016, 04:01 AM
Jgbrannan Jgbrannan is offline
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Location: New Canaan, CT
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 1995 325i Convertible
Update

After draining out all the old gas - refilling to 1/4 tank, still no start.
I replaced the fuel pump - the fuel filter, and then same issues - no start.
It runs on starter fluid, but not otherwise.
I replaced the plugs with new NGK.
then, I sent the injectors out to a shop after removing them, and they are clogged and being rebuilt. I also ordered a cam and crank sensor, but will only put them in if the injectors do not solve the issues.
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  #3  
Old 04-21-2016, 04:03 AM
Jgbrannan Jgbrannan is offline
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Location: New Canaan, CT
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 1995 325i Convertible
Can anyone tell if all the steps and info below reveal if my DME is working?
--Getting Spark - car runs on starting fluid and accelerates too
-- lights all work - so does all electrical in car - blinkers - radio - semi auto top - fuel pump jumper and fuel pump relay
--replaced fuel pump - and fuel filter
--stomp test reveals code 1444 - meaning all clear i think
--all lights on dash work when cranking, and go off after 5 sec or so - like usual - and when started with fluid.

noted that i sent the injectors to be refurbished and returned - just want to rule out the DME if possible - in advance.

Thank you all you expects -
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  #4  
Old 04-21-2016, 04:05 AM
Jgbrannan Jgbrannan is offline
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Location: New Canaan, CT
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
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Mein Auto: 1995 325i Convertible
Well ordered both crank shaft and camshaft sensors yesterday as insurance. From Pelican.Then late yesterday, i heard from the fuel injector refurbisher that the injectors are totally clogged, but registering electrical signals as they should, so they are not dead. He is going an overnight electronic soak to see if they will free up to usable status. THIS was most likely the issue with the no start. No fuel...no run.
Its trial and error... but i feel good about finding out this issue.

Last Night, I removed the wipers, tray under the wipers, and loosened the electrical harness that goes across the rear of the electrical box and fuel rail. Now i can also replace the fuel pressure regulator while I'm at it. At 94,000 miles, it probably is a good time to do it now that i am so far in.

Anything else i should check for changing while i am at it.? ......i appreciate the callouts

Last edited by Jgbrannan; 04-21-2016 at 06:04 AM.
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  #5  
Old 04-21-2016, 10:40 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Mein Auto: E24x2,E36x2,E30x1, F150
Wow. That's a nice car. I hope you got it cheap (didn't read all the previous). It's a little late to give you the "don't throw money at it" lecture. For future reference any time you have spark, the crank position sensor is working. If you have spark, the fuel pump is also getting power if all the wiring is intact. If you have fuel pressure and spark but it won't run except on starter fluid, either the fuel injectors are not getting firing pulses or they're clogged. There's nothing wrong with changing parts "just because", except it gets expensive real quick.
What else to check while you're at it: vacuum lines. There's a double handful of them, and most are hidden under the intake manifold. Fuel lines (feed and return) get brittle and are dangerous if they start leaking. All the coolant hoses need to be inspected. Overheating kills more BMWs than all other causes combined. Sitting for 5 years doesn't give the system "time off". It's actually worse. The coolant needs to be moved through the system to lube the pump, keep corrosion from forming/pooling.
Please continue posting updates. You seem like someone eager to get that cabrio back to excellent.
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buying a ratty example (of a BMW) is a parasitic relationship.(and you ain't the mosquito) 7pilot
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Last edited by hornhospital; 04-21-2016 at 10:47 AM.
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  #6  
Old 04-21-2016, 10:47 AM
hornhospital's Avatar
hornhospital hornhospital is offline
D'oh, You Kids!
Location: In the Grumpy Chair
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 18,942
Mein Auto: E24x2,E36x2,E30x1, F150
Thought of something else you can change on spec: rocker cover gasket. Sitting that long you're probably going to have a dried gasket and it will start leaking oil into the plug wells and down onto the exhaust manifolds.
See if you can figure out when/if/for sure the cooling system was replaced. I mean all of it. Radiator, pump, thermostat, hoses, the works.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13
buying a ratty example (of a BMW) is a parasitic relationship.(and you ain't the mosquito) 7pilot
Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 & New Member Intro Forum Mod/Bimmerfest Misplaced-Posting Tow Truck
BMW-CCA #441426 My E30 makes me do stupid FUN things.

1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira"; 1985 635CSi "Katja"; 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"; 1987 325is "Odette"

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  #7  
Old 04-21-2016, 08:48 PM
Jgbrannan Jgbrannan is offline
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Location: New Canaan, CT
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 1995 325i Convertible
Thanks so much for the suggestions! The waterpump and radiator, tstat, and the main belt was done 2,000 miles ago in 2011. Right before it went to sit.
The rocker cover gasket... same as valve cover gasket?.... i assume. Good callout. When i changed the plugs last week, after running on starting fluid, i saw oil on one of the tips when i removed one. The spark plug wells were totally dry and perfect and coils looked clean. I blew the wells out with an airspray right before taking out the coils.
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  #8  
Old 04-22-2016, 09:04 PM
Jgbrannan Jgbrannan is offline
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Location: New Canaan, CT
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 1995 325i Convertible
Update 4.22

The injectors came back to life and arrived today! So did the crank and cam sensors. I am ripe for a solid focus to start this weekend. We will see.
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  #9  
Old 04-24-2016, 03:22 AM
Jgbrannan Jgbrannan is offline
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Location: New Canaan, CT
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 1995 325i Convertible
OK, I tried my best to get the FPR out of the Fuel Rail, but could not get it to budge, other than just spin around. It is original. I even slightly bent one of the openings that hold in the C clamp, trying to pry the FPR out, but was able to get the part I bent back in shape, and then reinstalled the C clamp.
I installed the injectors, and then the rail into the intake. Getting the injector clips on was easy, but getting the Wire Harness clips snapped beck on, was NOT so easy.
Then - After several tries, and some engine coughing....

SHE RUNS!! And NO starting Fluid was used. So Exciting.

As soon as I got it to Idle at 600 without coughing to a stop, I immediately bled the cooling system. I "feel" like after 10 minutes of squeezing hoses, refilling coolant, etc - I still get just s few air bubbles every so often, but I can tell you the engine started running smoother as soon as the water warmed up and bubbles were removed. Oh - and the Heater - blower was on, and it blows HOT inside the car.

After running in the driveway for 10-15 minutes, i put the top down, and slipped in the rear seat bottom.

We took her out for a ride in the neighborhood, to see about the brakes, as the PO listed the car as needing brakes, due to Rusty Rotors. Those clean themselves, as you drive, and they did. I have a ABS light that is off - then on, and goes off also, after driving then letting it sit, and restarting. But the Brakes are working and stopping the car. The E Brake or P brake, works perfectly. We have no check engine light after running for 30 minutes and driving around neighborhood streets a few times, but never over 25 MPH.

After putting it back in the driveway, and letting it continue to idle....
What we are getting is a slight chirping sound coming from the engine. at the Vanos or the water pump.

As the car sat for 5+ years, is it possible I need to spray some oil/lubricant/WD40 on the pullys?
The Water Pump, Radiator, Belt - all replaced within the past year (mileage wise) but then it sat for 5+ years.

BUT - after everything - it is RUNNING and DRIVING.

Last edited by Jgbrannan; 04-24-2016 at 03:30 AM.
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  #10  
Old 04-24-2016, 07:32 AM
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bliger7gz bliger7gz is offline
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Mein Auto: 1994 BMW 325is
That is awesome. Good job on bringing it back to life.
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