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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-14-2015, 04:44 PM
LCP LCP is offline
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new radiator

Ok I have a new fan clutch, fan and aluminum radiator. I know how to install but want to flush all coolant out of the block. How should I go about doing that? I definitely don't want old coolant in the new raid. Oh by the way my fan exploded and took out the old radiator.
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  #2  
Old 04-14-2015, 05:44 PM
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Engel12626 Engel12626 is offline
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Here's what I did

1. Open the block drain
2. Get showered in coolant (seriously, wear goggles)
3. Plug it back up, and fill with water. I threw in a bottle of coolant flushing stuff too, DEI Radiator Relief I think it was called
4. Run it for a few minutes then drain it all out
5. Fill with water and run it for a little while again
6. When I drained it this time the water that came out looked clean so I figured that was enough
7. Fill with coolant and bleed throughly

Remember to use a new washer on the block drain plug
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Last edited by Engel12626; 04-14-2015 at 08:41 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2015, 09:09 PM
LCP LCP is offline
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Should i do that before i install or after?
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2015, 09:19 PM
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dc_wright dc_wright is offline
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If you've got the old radiator already and stuff already out, you can flush the block before you install the new radiator. Pull the coolant plug on the block as Andy indicated. Pull the lower radiator hose up so that the open end is higher than the thermostat housing and pour distilled water into it. Water should flow through there and out the block drain. Pour until what's coming out is clean/clear, then put the plug back in the block. Install the new radiator, fill the system and bleed appropriately.
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Last edited by dc_wright; 04-14-2015 at 09:26 PM.
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  #5  
Old 04-15-2015, 02:48 PM
LCP LCP is offline
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Ok cool hoping to have it on the road tomorrow.
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  #6  
Old 04-18-2015, 06:56 PM
LCP LCP is offline
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Ok got it all installed. Temp stays below 12oclcok position and I have a slightly different engine rev noise.
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2015, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LCP View Post
Ok got it all installed. Temp stays below 12oclcok position and I have a slightly different engine rev noise.
Your temp gauge should be at 12 O'clock. If that's the position it topped out at either you installed a lower temp thermostat or your thermostat is stuck open....
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Old 04-18-2015, 07:21 PM
LCP LCP is offline
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It wasn't changed and before i swapped to an aluminum radiator the gauge would be at the 12oclock position. I did use water wetter, coolant and distilled water mix. Can a therm go bad like that?
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Old 04-18-2015, 07:31 PM
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dc_wright dc_wright is offline
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Yes. They can fail open, closed, or in between.
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Old 04-19-2015, 08:16 PM
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Well its going to have to wait for replacing for now.
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  #11  
Old 04-19-2015, 08:22 PM
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What is crazy is the amount of air the new fan puts out. Way more then the original did.
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:10 PM
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Engel12626 Engel12626 is offline
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Originally Posted by LCP View Post
What is crazy is the amount of air the new fan puts out. Way more then the original did.
Your old clutch was probably worn out
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Old 04-20-2015, 02:17 PM
LCP LCP is offline
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Yeah it was but now temps are staying below the 12oclock position. But slightly above the second line.
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2015, 02:44 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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That means your thermostat has failed on the open position and needs to be replaced. Over cooling the engine is also bad for it.
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  #15  
Old 04-20-2015, 05:27 PM
LCP LCP is offline
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Yeah have one on order.
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