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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 11-13-2014, 06:47 PM
325iDarknight 325iDarknight is offline
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no power to fuel pump

so ive got a 1993 325is vanos that has a no start problem theres no power to the fuel pump.
i have replaced relays, the fuel pump , fuse and battery( battery was bad)
i also tried to wire tap the terminal andnothing
i have been able to start it on starting fluid for a couple of seconds then it would die.
any idea anyone id love some help thank you in advance

Last edited by 325iDarknight; 11-13-2014 at 07:27 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-17-2014, 03:18 PM
325iDarknight 325iDarknight is offline
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Bump anyone ?
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  #3  
Old 11-17-2014, 05:41 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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well, looks like that you have thrown a lot of parts at it already, but how did you check the power to the fuel pump??


use a test light and do so while cranking.






df
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  #4  
Old 11-17-2014, 05:59 PM
325iDarknight 325iDarknight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
well, looks like that you have thrown a lot of parts at it already, but how did you check the power to the fuel pump??


use a test light and do so while cranking.






df
Yeah i have lol
I'm bypassing the relay by jumping the terminals
I was thinking of wiring to something that comes on when I turn the key but not sure what. Weather has been in the 20s so I haven't been able to find out.
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  #5  
Old 11-18-2014, 04:46 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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i don't recommend reinventing the wheel here,....check the basics.




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  #6  
Old 11-18-2014, 08:15 PM
325iDarknight 325iDarknight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
i don't recommend reinventing the wheel here,....check the basics.




df
alright anything else
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  #7  
Old 11-19-2014, 08:16 AM
nuke21 nuke21 is offline
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Don't use a test light. Use a DMM. Put the positive lead on the positive battery and then the negative lead on the positive of the fuel pump wire. Make sure it is getting really close to 0 volts. This will tell you voltage drop. If that checks out, do the same for the ground and ground. Both should be really close to 0 volts. Then switch the DMM to Ohms and see how much resistance the pump positive and negative to make sure the pump electronics aren't messed up internally.

A test light will only tell you that power is there. Whether it is 1v or 12v.
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  #8  
Old 11-19-2014, 04:47 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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i disagree,....use a test light to check for power to the pump. it should power up on initial key on/engine off. then go out, and then come back on again when cranking.

trying to use a dvom in this case will simply be more confusing to the testing. no need to do a voltage drop test at this time to the circuit based on the description. plus, it has been my experience that the real cheap dvom units will not be very accurate and the last thing anyone needs to see when diagnosing something like this are voltage readings jumping all around.

keep it simple.




df
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2014, 08:17 AM
nuke21 nuke21 is offline
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I don't think it would be confusing but I guess everyone understands stuff differently. And I have a Fluke 88, which is why I rely on a DMM vs a test light.
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2014, 04:28 PM
325iDarknight 325iDarknight is offline
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So I was able to go and check fuse 18 today wasn't as cold but yeah.
So I checked fuse 18 and no power to it at all. I had the key in the on position . any ideas
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  #11  
Old 11-20-2014, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuke21 View Post
I don't think it would be confusing but I guess everyone understands stuff differently. And I have a Fluke 88, which is why I rely on a DMM vs a test light.
fluke88 is a nice piece of equipment, and it does *way* more than an average diy'er ever would need. it is also very pricey for most diy'ers, so i doubt many others use them.

me?? traded mine in on a power graphing meter with 2 channels. it's ancient now, but still samples faster than a dvom, including the fluke88.

again, not knocking it, it does things my pgm can't so I did wind up getting another dvom of lesser standing. i use it mostly for resistances and quick checks on things "out in the field", so to speak.

it's also much easier to see a lightbulb shine or blink than it is to try to read an lcd sceen when cranking (or attempting to) the engine over.



op, as for no power to fuse 18, check *all* of the fuses and your main relay....




df
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  #12  
Old 11-20-2014, 08:21 PM
325iDarknight 325iDarknight is offline
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I already did cheek all the other fuses only ones that were bad were air conditioner and both side headlights
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  #13  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:53 PM
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ok, then if your fuses are all fine, and you have replaced the relay, then you are missing something.

how are you checking for power to the fuel pump?? the dme will not keep the relay for the fuel pump on with there is no rpm, so if you keyed up the power and then check, you will have missed the 2 second prime timer.

hook your test light to the power feed for the fuel pump, *then* key up to the run position. the light should come on, then go off. it should come back on when the engine is cranked.

if it does all of this then replace the fuel pump.

if the test light illuminates when keyed up but not when cranked you have more than likely got a faulty crank sensor.

if nothing illuminates then verify the relay is functioning. you should be able to jumper the pins to put power to the fuel pump.





df
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  #14  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:56 PM
325iDarknight 325iDarknight is offline
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Okay I'll try that tomorrow.
I already tried to jump them and still nothing.
Does the DME need to be grounded in its compartmen??
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  #15  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:00 PM
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wut?? do you mean in the bracket??



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  #16  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:04 PM
325iDarknight 325iDarknight is offline
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Yeah with the 2 clips on the side.
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  #17  
Old Yesterday, 10:22 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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The ECU/DME grounds through the wiring harness. It shouldn't have to be clipped/bolted in place to work.
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  #18  
Old Yesterday, 11:34 AM
325iDarknight 325iDarknight is offline
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Kk
Now I'm still stumped on why there is no power to fuse or relay
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  #19  
Old Yesterday, 10:34 PM
325iDarknight 325iDarknight is offline
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Was told there is system relay is beside the cluster. two of the pins to fuel pump relay will pick up its signal from there. Can anyone tell if that's true before I start tearing apart my dash
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