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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #2276  
Old 10-23-2010, 09:26 AM
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Location: Madison WI
 
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no Franklyn don't do it.... my babysitter drives a white one, i'll always have to think of you as a mexican teen mom....
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  #2277  
Old 10-23-2010, 11:10 PM
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soo i did indeed buy a new stereo, kenwood something or other that came with two 6 1/2in speakers, didn't install yet, but wondering where my pax door wiring went.... And also, any tips on window tracks? I've kept the panels off because no matter how i adjust the windows (both front) they come out of the track closest to the door hinge.... One does it when rolling down, the other when going up.... Really wishing i had crank windows right now...
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  #2278  
Old 10-24-2010, 08:29 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 318is / 1993 325is
Crank windows wouldn't help. Out of adjustment is out of adjustment. Doesn't matter what powers them up and down.
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
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  #2279  
Old 10-24-2010, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Crank windows wouldn't help. Out of adjustment is out of adjustment. Doesn't matter what powers them up and down.
true, i just feel like they might not have been all effed up in the first place
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  #2280  
Old 10-25-2010, 06:46 AM
EROC_328 EROC_328 is offline
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Saturday on my bimmer, I replaced the transmission fluid with no problems. I tried to replace the diff fluid as well but couldn't get the fill plug out. Going to get some penetrating fluid and see if that helps. Then, I replaced my T-stat housing with an aluminum one.

Yesterday on my bimmer, I checked for leaks from my work on Saturday and saw that I was leaking some coolant where the lower hose connects to the radiator. I repositioned the hose clamp and the leak appeared to stop.

Today on my bimmer, I checked under my car after I parked at school and I appear to still be leaking coolant from the lower radiator hose connection. Have to see how big the puddle is when I leave this afternoon.
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  #2281  
Old 10-25-2010, 06:48 AM
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brooney328is brooney328is is offline
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Mein Auto: 1996 328is sport package
the notion of getting an M body kit hasnt even crossed my mind....until....

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/pts/2023744132.html
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  #2282  
Old 10-25-2010, 07:24 AM
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The Canadian Prick.
Location: Fort McMurray AB
 
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Mein Auto: '96 328is Cosmos
That M kit is a helluva deal.
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  #2283  
Old 10-25-2010, 07:26 AM
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brooney328is brooney328is is offline
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Location: Boston
 
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Mein Auto: 1996 328is sport package
it really is.....it REALLY is. and im not one for making my car look like something it's not....but come on.....$200.

emailed me back...."selling for a friend" which gives me the idea that he just wants to get it off his hands for good....i smell negotiations
gonna give the guy a call later today.
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  #2284  
Old 10-25-2010, 09:26 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Originally Posted by EROC_328 View Post
I tried to replace the diff fluid as well but couldn't get the fill plug out. Going to get some penetrating fluid and see if that helps.
You can try penetrating fluid, but I would also recommend having a long breaker bar (about 34") available. They can be stubborn, but they typically aren't as stubborn as the transmission plugs (since those are tapered). Anyway, I had to use a breaker bar on both my trans and my diff. Also, make absolutely sure you have NEW aluminum crush washers for the differential plugs. You won't get a good seal if you reuse the old ones.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EROC_328 View Post
Today on my bimmer, I checked under my car after I parked at school and I appear to still be leaking coolant from the lower radiator hose connection. Have to see how big the puddle is when I leave this afternoon.
Depending on how old your radiator is, you very likely have a crack in the collar where the hose clamps onto the radiator. It's only a matter of time before it breaks off completely and you dump all your coolant.
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Last edited by ZeGerman; 10-25-2010 at 09:28 AM.
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  #2285  
Old 10-25-2010, 09:46 AM
EROC_328 EROC_328 is offline
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Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
You can try penetrating fluid, but I would also recommend having a long breaker bar (about 34") available. They can be stubborn, but they typically aren't as stubborn as the transmission plugs (since those are tapered). Anyway, I had to use a breaker bar on both my trans and my diff. Also, make absolutely sure you have NEW aluminum crush washers for the differential plugs. You won't get a good seal if you reuse the old ones.

Depending on how old your radiator is, you very likely have a crack in the collar where the hose clamps onto the radiator. It's only a matter of time before it breaks off completely and you dump all your coolant.
Yea, I probably need to get a long bar on it. I didn't have any trouble with the transmission plugs but the fluid looked like it must have been changed recently, maybe by the dealership before I bought the car. The fluid was still all nice and red. The diff plugs on the other hand look like they have never been touched since the car was made. I have new crush washers for the diff, but thanks for the heads up.

The collar could be cracked I guess. I hadn't even wanted to take that hose off, but I dropped on of the bolts for the T-stat housing down it and had to retrieve it.
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  #2286  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:22 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Just so I understand, it wasn't leaking before you took the hose off?
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  #2287  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:29 AM
EROC_328 EROC_328 is offline
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Just so I understand, it wasn't leaking before you took the hose off?
That is correct.
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  #2288  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:32 AM
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Hmmm... It's hard to imagine you being unable to get a good seal again in the absence of a crack. Should seal right up. You're obviously going to have to take a second look at it. If your radiator and hoses are old, you might as well just replace them. They're pretty cheap.
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  #2289  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:42 AM
EROC_328 EROC_328 is offline
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My thought is that I probably didn't get the hose clamp back on the hose in a flat position. The clamp maybe angled a little bit and therefore not giving me a good seal. I had this problem with it when I replaced my t-stat and water pump a couple years ago. At the time I didn't know that I should also replace the hoses and radiator, so I didn't. Hopefully, its just the hose clamp and I can hold off on the radiator a couple more months until I graduate and get a real job and have some spending money. Then all aluminum radiator and new (silicone?) hoses.

Thanks for the help, Ze. I will let you know what I figure out with it.
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  #2290  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:45 AM
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night_raven9 night_raven9 is offline
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last night on my bimmer i decided to just stick with oem side moldings.... sanding them all down (they've got multiple layers of bad paint jobs) and then deciding what to do with them from there.... also ordered the hood cowls (finally) from pelican parts, along with new clips to reattach the side moldings.... i'll post pics of the moldings as i go
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  #2291  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:50 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EROC_328 View Post
My thought is that I probably didn't get the hose clamp back on the hose in a flat position. The clamp maybe angled a little bit and therefore not giving me a good seal. I had this problem with it when I replaced my t-stat and water pump a couple years ago. At the time I didn't know that I should also replace the hoses and radiator, so I didn't. Hopefully, its just the hose clamp and I can hold off on the radiator a couple more months until I graduate and get a real job and have some spending money. Then all aluminum radiator and new (silicone?) hoses.

Thanks for the help, Ze. I will let you know what I figure out with it.
No problemo. +1 on all aluminum radiator, but I'm not convinced the silicone hoses are worth the extra money.
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  #2292  
Old 10-25-2010, 05:09 PM
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Found out why it's vibrating to hell, rear U-joint was about to explode

And rotated the tires.
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  #2293  
Old 10-25-2010, 05:16 PM
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I hate replacing U-joints. so very, very much.
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Drop the clutch, proceed and ain't care.
  • '06 325xi 6MT
  • '96 328i 5MT "drift turd"
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  #2294  
Old 10-25-2010, 05:17 PM
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I've actually never done it, but tomorrow I will. Luckily my driveshaft came out in about 5 minutes.
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  #2295  
Old 10-25-2010, 05:36 PM
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to me the toughest part is separating the u-joint from the yoke once the C clips are removed
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Drop the clutch, proceed and ain't care.
  • '06 325xi 6MT
  • '96 328i 5MT "drift turd"
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  #2296  
Old 10-25-2010, 05:48 PM
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Yea, I imagine that will be the worst part.

No, scratch that, the worst part is paying for a new yoke and U-Joint.
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  #2297  
Old 10-25-2010, 05:50 PM
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on my truck I somehow got an exhaust leak, which won't be fixed because it sounds like an aftermarket one.

I try and race everyone now(on certified strips with proper safety gear and trained medical personell), and fail
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  #2298  
Old 10-25-2010, 05:56 PM
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Haha.

I have exhaust leaks too, I want to try and fix them tomorrow.
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  #2299  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:24 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Today I had my car aligned again (after this weekend's front end overhaul) and when for a pleasure drive afterward. Tight as a drum and so much more fun behind the wheel now!
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For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #2300  
Old 10-27-2010, 01:06 PM
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today on my bimmer i went to joannes fabrics to price out some headliner/pillar choices.

and the winner is?

BEIGE VINYL!@ beige vinyl everywhere!!!
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