P0015, P0014 Codes: Intake cam sensor? Vanos Solenoid or Vanos Seals? Please advise.

SES light came on, 2 codes: P0015 and P0014.

P0015: Camshaft Position, Act B - bank 1, timing over retard
P0014: Camshaft Position, Act B - bank 1, timing over advanc.

Done the research, sounds like it could be 3 things:

1. Camshaft Intake Position sensor
2. Vanos Solenoid
3. Vanos Seals

Plan of action:
1. Replace Camshaft intake Sensor
If does not help:
2. Take apart and clean the solenoid? Possible?
If does not help:
3. Do the vanos seals

I just ran a bottle of Chevron Techron in the fuel tank and changed oil. Got the codes immediately after. Coincidence?

What do you think? Anybody had the same experience? Thank you!

P.S The idle is higher (200rpm) than usual now and fluctuates and some loss of power is felt.

When VANOS seals go away, the unit generally defaults to the full-advance position, which *could* possibly cause the CPS to trigger, but I`m not 100% sure that this would happen....but, then again, everything IS inter-related....

Sounds like a sensor problem. Start with the cheapest then move up, but you knew this. Good luck. A bottle of Chevron would not cause a code like that.

I don't know why a proper oil change would cause that problem, but BMWs are weird like that.

Camshaft sensor, bank 1 = INTAKE, Camshaft sensor, bank 2 = EXHAUST.

The odd thing is I threw different codes when my intake sensor, on both the 330 and 323 failed, but I cannot remember what it was, but that is the rule I remember....def not the VANOS seals - that would set P1519 thru P 1529 codes...VANOS solenoid would throw the P1529....or 1525 code. don't rebuild the VANOS seals unless you have never done it and think you have enough miles to warrant the Beisan repair anyhow...seeing how I already noted your DIY on the CCV I would bet a guy like you has already did the VANOS seal thing - even if it wasn't throwing a code...am I right?

good luck and I think you are correct starting with the intake camshaft position sensor.

also- Good job on the CCV DIY- I hope that does not help me some day but I know it will (>)!

Thank you for the replies!

Originally Posted by Fast Bob

When VANOS seals go away, the unit generally defaults to the full-advance position, which *could* possibly cause the CPS to trigger, but I`m not 100% sure that this would happen....but, then again, everything IS inter-related....

High idle would be the vanos unit full-advance position , right? The car is idling right now at 800rpm in D,R,N,P...You might be right, Bob, I'm reading accounts of the same problem and the sensor did not solve the problem, but the new seals did...Go figure...

Originally Posted by AlboBMW

Sounds like a sensor problem. Start with the cheapest then move up, but you knew this. Good luck. A bottle of Chevron would not cause a code like that.

I don't know why a proper oil change would cause that problem, but BMWs are weird like that.

Yea, must be coincidence with Chevron and oil...

Originally Posted by QAfred

Camshaft sensor, bank 1 = INTAKE, Camshaft sensor, bank 2 = EXHAUST.

The odd thing is I threw different codes when my intake sensor, on both the 330 and 323 failed, but I cannot remember what it was, but that is the rule I remember....def not the VANOS seals - that would set P1519 thru P 1529 codes...VANOS solenoid would throw the P1529....or 1525 code. don't rebuild the VANOS seals unless you have never done it and think you have enough miles to warrant the Beisan repair anyhow...seeing how I already noted your DIY on the CCV I would bet a guy like you has already did the VANOS seal thing - even if it wasn't throwing a code...am I right?

good luck and I think you are correct starting with the intake camshaft position sensor.

also- Good job on the CCV DIY- I hope that does not help me some day but I know it will (>)!

Thank you for CVV compliments. But no, the guy like me has not changed the VANOS seals yet. I was gonna do it next time with the VCG and plugs, but now it might be much sooner. So looks like it's Intake sensor OR vanos seals. Yea the seals is usually a different code, but just read about the the car with the same two codes...and guess what...Vanos seals...

BTW, what does "Act B" in the code stand for? Actuator? So can it be a referrance to the Vanos Solenoid?

Update for those who is interested in troubleshooting and fixing these codes: P0015 and P0014.

I have not fixed it yet. Still waiting for parts to arrive. However I've done further research and realized that my initial perception of the situation was not quite correct.

First of all: If it's a sensor, it's gonna be a EXHAUST one and not the intake. "Bank 1" in the code does not mean "intake", it means Cyl 1-3, Actuator means VANOS, "A" means intake, "B" means exhaust. So, the problem is on the exhaust side. If it's a sensor it's the camshaft exhaust sensor. Both of my sensors are original BMW sensors, so it's likely not the case.

I've already ordered VANOS seals and I'll be installing them first. Some posts on the forums almost convinced me that the seals themselves can be responsible for the codes.

If it does not help, I'll replace the solenoid on the exhaust side. There is a confusion here as well. People usually mean the solenoid on the intake side, by the oil filter housing. The realoem shows only the intake solenoid and does not show at all the exhaust one. But you can see it right below the exhaust camshaft position sensor.

So far, it's all theory. We'll see what will do the trick. I'll make a DIY with the description of all my work with the results for all those with these 2 codes that make the car runs like poop.

A huge thanks to RAJAIE who is always ready to help and answer as many VANOS questions as you might have. He gave me all the insights into this situation.

Originally Posted by Starless

Update for those who is interested in troubleshooting and fixing these codes: P0015 and P0014.

I have not fixed it yet. Still waiting for parts to arrive. However I've done further research and realized that my initial perception of the situation was not quite correct.

First of all: If it's a sensor, it's gonna be a EXHAUST one and not the intake. "Bank 1" in the code does not mean "intake", it means Cyl 1-3, Actuator means VANOS, "A" means intake, "B" means exhaust. So, the problem is on the exhaust side. If it's a sensor it's the camshaft exhaust sensor. Both of my sensors are original BMW sensors, so it's likely not the case.

I've already ordered VANOS seals and I'll be installing them first. Some posts on the forums almost convinced me that the seals themselves can be responsible for the codes.

If it does not help, I'll replace the solenoid on the exhaust side. There is a confusion here as well. People usually mean the solenoid on the intake side, by the oil filter housing. The realoem shows only the intake solenoid and does not show at all the exhaust one. But you can see it right below the exhaust camshaft position sensor.

So far, it's all theory. We'll see what will do the trick. I'll make a DIY with the description of all my work with the results for all those with these 2 codes that make the car runs like poop.

A huge thanks to RAJAIE who is always ready to help and answer as many VANOS questions as you might have. He gave me all the insights into this situation.

Good info...keep us posted. I thought I had this straight since Code P1522 equals Vanos stuck (Bank 1) Intake, and P1523 equals Vanos stuck (Bank2) exhaust. Since your code only mentioned Bank 1 I thought that meant Intake side was acting up-sensor or solenoid?. I found the above info on page 117-25 of my Bentley's. I'm still hangin my hat on the Intake side being the problem.

Final Update: I'm glad to announce that the problem is fixed! After installing the Beisan VANOS seals kit the "Service Engine Soon" (codes P0015 and P0014) light is gone all by itself without a reset after 20 minutes of "spirited" post repair driving. Everything is back to normal, power is back, idle is normalized.

The cost of repair was around $100: $65 for Vanos seals kit, $40 for miscellaneous parts and tools.

VANOS install notes. With the instructions on the Beisan Systems website the installation was a walk in the park. I was working on it intermittently during 2 days though. I took everything apart and removed the old seals while the new kit was still being delivered. The dealership did not have the parts in stock and it took another day to receive them. No installation problems to report. Just follow the instructions on the website, everything is there. A couple of minor things though. I did not use the exact narrow-bladed knife to remove the seals and it resulted in some nicks on the piston edges which is nothing to worry about, but better to avoid. I did the tightening of most of the bolts and nuts by feel instead of using the torque wrench. 10NM is a very light torque and I could not trust my cheap torque wrench () that does a good job in the middle of the scale but not in the beginning. So, hand tight and a little bit more Or even better - buy yourself a good micro torque wrench I did not have a hex bit for 2 Vanos front cover bolts, so the hex key with a pipe extension was used. I was amazed how bad the old seals were. I could move the piston in the cylinder at literally any angle. After installing the new seals I was like: “Oh, so this is how it is supposed to be”. Huge difference. Performance wise, I still need to log 200 miles (brake-in period) to tell for sure. But some changes could be felt already, things like more torque at takeoff, more power and it's smoother distribution.

Troubleshooting of the codes P0015 and P0014 followed by the VANOS kit repair would not be possible without online BMW forums were I gathered bits and pieces of information that led me to believe that the problem is neither the exhaust sensor, nor the exhaust solenoid valve. That’s why I’m posting all this stuff here. Hopefully somebody else with these codes will find it useful.

Special thanks to Rajaie, who answered all my VANOS related questions. His help facilitated the accurate and successful troubleshooting of the problem without wasting hundreds of dollars on sensors and solenoids.

A write-up is not a write-up without pictures. So, here you go:

Originally Posted by Starless

Final Update: I'm glad to announce that the problem is fixed! After installing the Beisan VANOS seals kit the "Service Engine Soon" (codes P0015 and P0014) light is gone all by itself without a reset after 20 minutes of "spirited" post repair driving. Everything is back to normal, power is back, idle is normalize....

Thanks much for the update.

Did you ever find out what that mystery black plastic clip thingy was?

Originally Posted by Melquin

Thanks much for the update.

Did you ever find out what that mystery black plastic clip thingy was?

No, that one is still a mystery. But not a vital part, that's for sure, the car runs fine now without it. May be it's not even a part of the car. Sometimes weird things happen

very nice job alex

Just a quick update. It's been a week, the codes have not returned and with new VANOS seals the car runs better than ever before! If you have not done your VANOS yet, I'd highly recommend.

Hi, I have a 2001 330 m54 e46 that is throwing the same P0014 error code. I have replaced the Double Vanos seals from Beisan and exhaust camshaft position sensor with a genuine bmw sensor. Still throwing the same code and just to make sure it wasent the exhaust solenoid, i unplugged it to see if it threw a error code and it did so i assume its fine. The car still shakes at idle and hesitates at take off and acceleration. Im thinking its the timing on either the vanos or the motor. Any insight would help me before i spend $300+ dollars to buy the timing tools.

Originally Posted by express_fit

Hi, I have a 2001 330 m54 e46 that is throwing the same P0014 error code. I have replaced the Double Vanos seals from Beisan and exhaust camshaft position sensor with a genuine bmw sensor. Still throwing the same code and just to make sure it wasent the exhaust solenoid, i unplugged it to see if it threw a error code and it did so i assume its fine. The car still shakes at idle and hesitates at take off and acceleration. Im thinking its the timing on either the vanos or the motor. Any insight would help me before i spend $300+ dollars to buy the timing tools.

Hmmm...Honestly I do not know much about fixing the actual timing of the vanos unit. I thought that dual camshaft e46 did not have that problem...

Have you tried to erase the code? If not definitely do it and see if it comes back. But your post sounds like you know what you are doing. So I guess you have already tried it.

Before you spend more money I'd suggest a couple of things:

1. Erase the code and see if it comes back.
2. Wait till the new VANOS brake-in period (200 miles) is over and re-evaluate the situation.
3. There is still a chance it's an exhaust solenoid.
4. Definitely email or PM Rajaie, the owner of Beisan. He can give you a good insight and he is always willing to help.

Shaking at idle and hesitation at take off and acceleration can be caused by a variety of other issues like a vacuum leak, DISA valve, MAF sensor, ICV valve to name a few...Check if you have any other codes??

Changing the seals definitely helped my case and the codes have not returned! Good luck! Keep us updated!

P.S I wish I could be of more help...

Thanks for the reply. Yes ive tried clearing the codes. And its been at least 200 miles or more. I read some where that the chances of the timing jumping off is very slim, but theres no other thing i can come up with other than a dirty exhaust solenoid or for some reason the timing is off a little. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by express_fit

Thanks for the reply. Yes ive tried clearing the codes. And its been at least 200 miles or more. I read some where that the chances of the timing jumping off is very slim, but theres no other thing i can come up with other than a dirty exhaust solenoid or for some reason the timing is off a little. Thanks again.

No problem. When you fix the problem with this code, please update this thread for future readers. Best of luck!

Did you ever find out what that mystery black plastic clip thingy was?[/QUOTE]

I hate it when that happens! And, oh yeah, great post all the way around!

Originally Posted by express_fit

Hi, I have a 2001 330 m54 e46 that is throwing the same P0014 error code. I have replaced the Double Vanos seals from Beisan and exhaust camshaft position sensor with a genuine bmw sensor. Still throwing the same code and just to make sure it wasent the exhaust solenoid, i unplugged it to see if it threw a error code and it did so i assume its fine. The car still shakes at idle and hesitates at take off and acceleration. Im thinking its the timing on either the vanos or the motor. Any insight would help me before i spend $300+ dollars to buy the timing tools.

The dual vanos doesn't require timing at all. You can't "set the timing" when related to the VANOS. It is self adjusting. Chances are good you forgot to reconnect something or have a bad cam sensor or VANOS solenoid. The timing tools will do you no good.

Thanks Smolck for taking notice. I bought the car used and was in the hands of a guy that was way in over his head trying to deal with the same problem. So i have no idea if he messed with the timing at all. Heres the description from the manufacture of a Vanos timing kit says. ( This kit contains the tools necessary to assemble and properly time the double VANOS camshaft adjustment unit found in 1998 and ater 6 cylindef engines. ) If theres no such thing as timing of the vanos, why the timing kit?

Originally Posted by express_fit

If theres no such thing as timing of the vanos, why the timing kit?

I'm sure you can set the cam timing, but the VANOS doesn't have an adjustment anywhere. It is adjusted automatically by the car based on RPM (via oil pressure and the VANOS solenoid). My opinion is that you don't want to go messing with the cam timing unless you know what you are doing. It isn't like indexing a cam on a pushrod V8.

I asked a BMW mechanic on www.Justanswer.com this question, Is there two types of timings? (vanos timing and the motor timing?). He replied this...( The engine timing and vanos timing is the same...but different...
I think the best way to explain is to go over how it is timed. We would first set to TDC and then place the cam locks on the back of the cams. The cam locks set the cams to TDC position in conjunction with using the pin in the flywheel. This is the engine timing side. Next there are more special tools and a sequence of installing the gears for the vanos. The vanos uses a helical gear that moves the camshafts to retard and advance the cams controlled directly by oil pressure. But withe the engine off they are at a specific set point. We would set up the gears and use a jig in the front of the engine that sets the depth of the helical gears and then torque everything down. The vanos units are a direct input to the camshaft. Once the Vanos timine is set...with the cam locks on and at TDC...then we remove the locks and pin and turn the engine over two full cycles(which is 4 turns of the crank shaft) and then reinstall the pin at TDC and then see if the cam locks fit back over the cams at the back of the head and sit flush against the head. This is the timing test...if they sit flush the timing is good. If they do not sit flush then the timing is off and the Vanos Gears must be dissassembled again and the timing of the Vanos redone. So they are different but are directly related to each other. I hope this helps give you an idea of what this fix will entail for you. )

Originally Posted by express_fit

I asked a BMW mechanic on www.Justanswer.com this question, Is there two types of timings? (vanos timing and the motor timing?). He replied this...( The engine timing and vanos timing is the same...but different...
I think the best way to explain is to go over how it is timed. We would first set to TDC and then place the cam locks on the back of the cams. The cam locks set the cams to TDC position in conjunction with using the pin in the flywheel. This is the engine timing side. Next there are more special tools and a sequence of installing the gears for the vanos. The vanos uses a helical gear that moves the camshafts to retard and advance the cams controlled directly by oil pressure. But withe the engine off they are at a specific set point. We would set up the gears and use a jig in the front of the engine that sets the depth of the helical gears and then torque everything down. The vanos units are a direct input to the camshaft. Once the Vanos timine is set...with the cam locks on and at TDC...then we remove the locks and pin and turn the engine over two full cycles(which is 4 turns of the crank shaft) and then reinstall the pin at TDC and then see if the cam locks fit back over the cams at the back of the head and sit flush against the head. This is the timing test...if they sit flush the timing is good. If they do not sit flush then the timing is off and the Vanos Gears must be dissassembled again and the timing of the Vanos redone. So they are different but are directly related to each other. I hope this helps give you an idea of what this fix will entail for you. )

Let me say it this way, I have done 10 VANOS rebuilds in the last year. ALL of them went perfectly and I did not do ANY of that nonsense. I think he is explaining single VANOS not double. go to www.beisan.com and look at the double vanos installation DIY vs. the single VANOS

Originally Posted by smolck

Let me say it this way, I have done 10 VANOS rebuilds in the last year. ALL of them went perfectly and I did not do ANY of that nonsense. I think he is explaining single VANOS not double. go to www.beisan.com and look at the double vanos installation DIY vs. the single VANOS

I agree....as far as I`m aware, the "locking down" procedure only applies to single VANOS, and is not necessary on double.

P0014 is the VANOS code, not the engine itself timing code (if there are such codes at all).

I have an idea for you. I'd rule out the exhaust solenoid by switching exhaust and intake solenoids places and see if something changes. Even better would be to put in a vanos unit from a different 330 and see if it helps (I know it's not easy to arrange though).

Yes, I do agree that there is no need to use a camshaft alignment tool to rebuild a Double Vanos.
But what i was stating was that perhaps my Vanos cam gears (not camshafts) needs to be properly align using a Vanos alignment jig,sprocket assembly jig, etc as shown in this link.


http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/baum-...-fullsize.html