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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #151  
Old 05-02-2011, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EthirtyMine View Post
what would get first priority?
I think that's best asked here:
- What brand of waterpump to buy (1)
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  #152  
Old 05-06-2011, 01:59 PM
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Today, a user posted that the o-ring in his expansion tank cap failed:
- Ezpansion Tank Cap
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  #153  
Old 05-22-2011, 09:57 PM
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Today, an old thread that had great pictures of a bleeder-screw housing crack in the upper hose, and a great shot of the resulting white spray was resurrected over here:
- Broken bleed screw culprit

The tell-tale BMW spray:


The trailhead in the upper expanstion tank hose bleeder screw housing:



A closeup of the crack where the upper hose turned to mush:
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  #154  
Old 06-09-2011, 06:49 AM
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Yet another pictorial victim of the BMW cooling system today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Radiator leak! New Radiator or Repair?

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  #155  
Old 06-09-2011, 07:19 AM
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Daaaaang! Damn plastic parts. Still an awesome thread BB. Nice work in keeping it updated!
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  #156  
Old 07-05-2011, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mack View Post
Daaaaang! Damn plastic parts.
For the crosslinked record, here's yet another fan blade puncturing the hood:
- Dented hood from fan shattering, replace or repair it what's cheapest?

It would be nice if we could iron out the 'real' cause as questioned below:

Quote:
When I researched this (at the time of my cooling system leak), I was told by one of our suppliers that the fan almost never breaks 'on its own' - it's always as a 'result' of the clutch or the mounts.

So, the theory goes - you don't need to replace the fan (unless of course it shows evidence of wear). Likewise, if you 'just' replace the fan after it has disintegrated, you'll have the problem again ('cuz, the theory goes, the fan wasn't the problem).

I'm not sure if that theory is correct - but - I didn't replace my fan. I just replaced the clutch.

What do others think is the true cause of fan blade detachment?
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  #157  
Old 07-12-2011, 07:46 AM
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Here's a leak that purportedly came from an improper water pump installation:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Coolant Leak w/ pics

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  #158  
Old 07-15-2011, 01:06 AM
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For the record, when I mentioned in this thread recently:
- Dented hood from fan shattering, replace or repair it what's cheapest?

... that the fan blade can puncture the 'quarter panel' ...

... a detailed response was:

[quote=fortunateson;6191713]
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
for a fan to chew up a quarter panel it would have to pass the "B" pillar which I don't think could happen. It will chew up a font fender pretty good though.
So, I'm not sure 'what' this 'panel' is called, but be advised the fan blade 'can' puncture it:
- I checked it once a month, but yet...
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  #159  
Old 07-15-2011, 01:14 AM
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While I was doing the research above (for the thread that doubted anything other than the hood would be punctured by whirling fan blades), I found this classic photo ... which might be the first sign of a cooling system failure many of us might see in the morning on the way to work:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Why you need to check your fan clutch NOW!

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  #160  
Old 07-16-2011, 06:44 AM
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Considering the relatively common occurrence of radiator/hose/tank failure, is there anyone that has had their replacement radiator/hose/tank fail? What I'm getting to is whether there was something wrong from the time of manufacture in Germany with the original parts?

Original radiators/hoses were bad and then the plastic formulation changed after ~2003? Are there any reports on similar failures on E60 cars? Do E46s have the same problem?

Was the cooling system filled with German tap water or distilled? Do US shops use distilled or tap? If latter, is the mineral content different?
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  #161  
Old 07-16-2011, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
is there anyone that has had their replacement radiator/hose/tank fail?
Tons and tons and tons of people have gone through MULTIPLE radiators & expansion tanks (see links below for references).

Some, lately, even have bad replacement radiators and expansion tanks being DOA from the moment they put them in (see links below for reference).

Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
What I'm getting to is whether there was something wrong from the time of manufacture in Germany with the original parts?
Of course. They're plastic. And, whatever plastic they used, stinks. It's a bad design. From the beginning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
Original radiators/hoses were bad and then the plastic formulation changed after ~2003?
What 'you' can do to 'change the formulation' is go all aluminum or zero pressure (see links below).

Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
Are there any reports on similar failures on E60 cars? Do E46s have the same problem?
See the answer to that question here:
- Did BMW engineers learn from previous model mistakes in designing the E46 platform?

Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
Was the cooling system filled with German tap water or distilled?
In the references below are the clear specs for about two dozen mineral components of the water to be used for BMW cooling systems.

See also:
- What coolant to use (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
Do US shops use distilled or tap? If latter, is the mineral content different?
We researched this thoroughly (see references below) and there are about a dozen or two specs for mineral content that BMW specifies which the 'water' needs to meet.

We specifically compared San Jose & NYC water content against those specs. Guess what? They both cleared the BMW specs by a mile. So, there is absolutely no need to use distilled water (at least in those two locales).

What 'you' need to do is look up the specs for your local water supply and compare them with the requirements published by BMW.

Here are all the references you would need which answer all your questions already:

- What to look for when your KTMP (1) or coolant temperature gauge indicates overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) & what to look for in a perfectly normal E39 cooling system (1) & a picture of every failed part in the cooling system (1) & various techniques to properly bleed (1) (2) (3) & refill (1) & drain (1) (2) & flush (1) & what coolant to use (1) & what parts to replace (1) (2) & how to retrofit brass bleeder screws (1) (2) & what special tools to make or buy (1) & how to tell how old your cooling system is (1) (2) & how to test the cooling system auxiliary electrical fan (1) (2) (3) (4) & a DIY for replacing the auxilliary fan (1) (2) (3) & the infamous fuse 75 (1) & the aux fan relay (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1) & a Behr radiator and Behr/Heat expansion tank autopsy (1) (2) & request for another Behr surge tank autopsy (1) & why new made-in-China Behr/Hella expansion tanks are DOA (1) & E39 Fan shroud removal DIY (Besian) (M54) & some of the better cooling system DIYs (cn90 1997-1998 M54TU) (cn90 V8) (aioros '99-03 M54) (Ågent99 '01 530i) (pelican 3-series) (bluebee M54B25) & tricks to replace the fan clutch nut (1) & lower-hose thermoswitch o-ring (1) & to non-destructively remove the heater hoses (1) or radiator nipple (1) or expansion tank nipple (1) (2) or Oetiker clamp (1) or misplaced thermostat wiring loom (1) or broken bleeder screw (1) & modifying the cooling system pressure cap (1), or using propanol-based zero-pressure fluids like NPG+ (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) or all-aluminum cooling system parts by Zionsville (1) (2) (3) aluminum radiators & what happens if you drive one mile too far with an overheated BMW cooling system (1).
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  #162  
Old 08-10-2011, 10:00 AM
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For the record, here's a nic pic of a pinhole failure in the expansion tank:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Expansion tank pinhole - what else to replace?
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  #163  
Old 08-18-2011, 09:36 AM
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Today, yet another exploded fan was described:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Mechanical Fan Exploded! Is another one

In that thread, a number of possible causes were postulated:
  1. Bad viscous fan clutch
  2. Bad motor mounts or transmission holders
  3. Bad water pump shaft
  4. Bad water pump pulley
  5. Bad fan blades
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
This is an example of cracked WP Pulley
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  #164  
Old 08-22-2011, 12:56 PM
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Today, a V8-only cooling system failure was described which hasn't been yet described in this thread ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston_broke View Post
For the M62 crowd popping in here. I recently replaced my heater exchange pipe (made of rubber) on my 535.
I think it ran me about $300, part included. Apparently it's a b*#ch to get to. My indy showed me exactly where it is/was and in hindsight I'm glad he did it and not me. It's tucked hard against the firewall.

On the V8's it's a specially made piece which has a larger diameter opening at one end with a clip attached with the other being smaller plus a tight bend thrown in.



BTW, my symtoms at the time were coolant leaking at a fast rate which was replaced only for it to happen again. The car managed to limp to the indy for diagnosis/repair without anything major happening, thank god.
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  #165  
Old 08-22-2011, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Today, a V8-only cooling system failure was described which hasn't been yet described in this thread ...
I would prefer to term that a coolant "hose" failure, as that is more descriptive of what happened. Regardless, my advice is to replace ALL coolant and heater hoses in the engine compartment during a coolant system service. Use realoem.com to find them all. Most people seem to only replace the hoses attaching to the radiator...there are only two or three. Get them all...about 10 or 12. According to the tech who writes for Roundel, the BMW Club magazine, he prefers to use the oem hoses (or from the oem supplier) as they last the longest, typically 150k miles.
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  #166  
Old 09-13-2011, 12:56 PM
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yesterday at 156,000 miles after tightening both #15 clamps a minor water leak has stopped
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  #167  
Old 09-13-2011, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund
What I'm getting to is whether there was something wrong from the time of manufacture in Germany with the original parts?
Of course. They're plastic. And, whatever plastic they used, stinks. It's a bad design. From the beginning.
To follow up; but BMW did not make the plastic coolant parts, Behr did. They were given geometric and environmental (temperature and pressure) conditions and manufactured parts according to specs. If Behr parts for BMWs fail, do Behr parts for Audi, M-B, Opel etc. (German brands) also fail the same way?

That the problem is plastic in itself I don't buy since other cars drive around with plastic radiator end caps that seemingly last forever.
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  #168  
Old 09-13-2011, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by granlund View Post
If Behr parts for BMWs fail, do Behr parts for Audi, M-B, Opel etc. (German brands) also fail the same way?
Good question!
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  #169  
Old 09-14-2011, 10:57 PM
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For the record, yet another person (this time on an E46 M54 engine) posted an idler roller that simply fell off the centerbolt, unbeknownst to the owner:
- E46 (1999 - 2006) > Alternator replacement with deflection pulley surprise.

So this is yet another reason to perform the full cooling system overhaul at the same time as the full belt-drive overhaul:
- Complete cooling system overhaul recommended parts list (1)
- Recommended parts list for a complete belt drive system overhaul (1)



In post #165 of this M54 alternator thread, is another example of the idler roller just gone on an E46:
- E46 (1999 - 2006) > Another Possibility of a P00128



- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Mechanical Fan Exploded! Is another one

Last edited by bluebee; 09-14-2011 at 11:12 PM.
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  #170  
Old 10-04-2011, 04:09 AM
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Here's yet another BMW E39 cooling system failure mode, this one from:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > I think I found the source of my mystery coolant leak?


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  #171  
Old 10-17-2011, 02:56 PM
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For the record, today this E39 V8 radiator hose exploded:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Radiator hose exploded

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbaze540 View Post
it turns out the main hose from the engine to the radiator has exploded. so awesome.
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  #172  
Old 10-17-2011, 03:19 PM
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Mine was leaking on the driver's side of the radiator - on the side about 3 - 6 inches down. May have been in more than one place.
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  #173  
Old 11-12-2011, 02:55 PM
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This information, just in today, can pinpoint a defective Behr Hella expansion tank BEFORE you install it (and return it to the supplier!):
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Genuine BMW Expansion Tank
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  #174  
Old 12-01-2011, 04:18 PM
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For the record, this E38 thread today:
- HELP!!!!Exploding Fan

Prompted me to look at these reference threads on the fan exploding:
- What could cause a BMW fan blade to explode or disintegrate (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

Which have some interesting pictures of the this particular cooling system failure mode ...

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  #175  
Old 12-31-2011, 09:42 AM
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For the crosslinked record, a 99 540i owner just posted pictures of a strangely new coolant-temperature-sensor failure over here today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Coolant Temperature Sensor

Quote:
Originally Posted by cweo5 View Post
I have a 99 540iT and had the coolant system replaced at about 80k and now have about 150k on the car. ...I did notice the coolant guage pegging. ... I noticed a sensor connector laying freely under the area where the CPS goes in. Upon further investigation I see that half of the coolant temperature sensor is still in the connector and the rest is in the thermostat unit. I noticed that there appears the option of buying the whole thermostat unit or one can get just the temp sensor. Is this common for the sensor to break and appear to turn to mush? and should I just replace the sensor and not the whole thermostat system?
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