Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E34 (1989 - 1995)

E34 (1989 - 1995)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-10-2014, 03:19 PM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
Thumbs down No start

Noobie here, new to the BMW community.. looking for some advice.

I have a 540i 90k miles, auto.

My car was a one owner, so upon reviewing all of the receipts the last couple of days I noticed that within the last 3 years it has had a new alternator, starter, and transmission put into it by BMW. Within the last year or two that I've had it I've replaced all the belts and water pump. In the last couple of weeks its been running fine, off and on not starting (in which I'd have to wait a few minutes and try again) but after a few attempts within 20 minutes it would always fire right up. It drove smooth, no issues at all with it running, and after I would get it started up the first time, I wouldn't have any issues starting it until the next day or so.. But now for the last week and a half it wasn't starting up at all, until 3 days ago, and I was able to drive it like normal, but after I got it home, the next day it wouldn't start again.


The problem that I am having is that my car cranks over, but does not start completely. All my lights come on, my stereo works, I don't have any weird lights on my dash, I only get the 1444 no error code per stomp test, even when I reset it. I can hear the fuel pump working -- and it doesn't sound like its broken. I believe I can here the alternator/starter when I first turn on the car it also seems to be working.

At first I couldn't really hear my fuel pump (or atleast I didn't think that I could) so i replaced my fuel pump relay (which was a bitch). Now I can hear it, but it still has the same issue. I replaced my battery, because the old one kept going dead. I replaced my fuel filters (which were so bad I couldn't blow through them.) I tested all the fuses in my car, and replaced the ones that weren't working. I also cleaned out my air filter last night.

I'm going to do my sparks today.. and I'm looking into cleaning the injectors. any advice/input would be nice! I could put a video up if it would help. Pretty much at this point my car will crank when I turn the key... and then just keep cranking. The engine rotates, but too slowly for anything to actually start.
Reply With Quote
Ads by Google
  #2  
Old 04-10-2014, 03:24 PM
E34ZombieHunter's Avatar
E34ZombieHunter E34ZombieHunter is offline
Nothin like an E34
Location: Lillington NC
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,607
Mein Auto: 95 540i B/B
I would do the fuel pump and possibly the CPS.
It could be almost gone out, just because it is running does not mean it has enough pressure.
__________________

Gotta love an E34!!:thumb up:
If you want to get junkyard parts remember one thing, if it was wrecked you know it was running/driving. You may not know how well, but it was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
So a synopsis of a normally operating fan clutch:

Engine stone cold - fan clutch engaged
Engine at normal operating temp - fan clutch disengaged (easily stopped with the newspaper)
Engine above normal operating temp - fan clutch engaged
STOMP TEST

OEM Approved brands
READ ME IM THE BIBLE
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-11-2014, 12:47 PM
TheEinstein's Avatar
TheEinstein TheEinstein is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Denver, CO
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 209
Mein Auto: E34 540i
+1 on the crank position sensor

My 540 shut down, just driving down the road due to it. Had intermittent no starts before that. Even if your issue turns out to be something else, that part is piece of mind with these cars.
__________________
1995 E34 540ia
155,000 Miles
VIN# ...GF32404
Hellrot Red

Fuelly

My Basic Repair History (Edited 4/7/2014)
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-11-2014, 07:55 PM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
Thanks so much guys! I'm going to do some spark and pressure tests tomorrow.. should be getting the ECU relay I ordered relatively soon as well (I figured since I already replaced the fuel pump relay I might as well do this one as well..) and then look into the cps. I'm sure there is a forum around here somewhere with more info on how to do it. I'll probably update in a few days for more advice. I'm really not mechanically inclined.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-11-2014, 11:43 PM
capricornbmw capricornbmw is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Many places
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 395
Mein Auto: E36
Quote:
Originally Posted by justNIKKI View Post

At first I couldn't really hear my fuel pump (or atleast I didn't think that I could) so i replaced my fuel pump relay (which was a bitch). Now I can hear it, but it still has the same issue. I replaced my battery, because the old one kept going dead. I replaced my fuel filters (which were so bad I couldn't blow through them.) I tested all the fuses in my car, and replaced the ones that weren't working. I also cleaned out my air filter last night.

I'm going to do my sparks today.. and I'm looking into cleaning the injectors. any advice/input would be nice! I could put a video up if it would help. Pretty much at this point my car will crank when I turn the key... and then just keep cranking. The engine rotates, but too slowly for anything to actually start.
Please do the following :

1. Clear the error codes.
2. Key2 the ignition, with the windows wound down.
3. Leave it that way for 15 minutes then return to the car.
4. Key0, then repeate the stomp test. See if you have any error codes.
5. Report your results here.
6. Explain how changing the fuel pump relay was a bitch.
7. How do you know that your engine is not turning over fast enough to start ? Can you video that and post it here via a youtube link?
8. The fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and the crankshaft position sensors are the things that die and cause no starts on E34s of this age. An additional problem is the ects...blue tipped engine coolant temperature sensor. When its busted, it overfuels the car and stiffles a cold start. Disconnecting this usually fixes the problem. The blue tipped sensor is located by your firewall, on the right side, on the horizontal coolant pipe running alongside the firewall, behind the cylinder head/intake manifold area. You can try to disconnect that and see if the engine starts. Do this is if you receive no error codes during the manouver above.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-13-2014, 09:47 AM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
1-4 Completed
5. 1444
6. Fuel pump relay was a bitch for me because all of the screws on my ebox were already stripped, along with most of the other screws on my car.
7. I'll post a video sometime today.
8. My light on my dash for coolant has been acting up lately, is that the sensor you're talking about (ect). I'm about to order the cks and replace the old one.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-13-2014, 10:06 PM
capricornbmw capricornbmw is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Many places
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 395
Mein Auto: E36
No that dash light is for the water levels in your cooling system. You need to have that checked btw if you're getting lights. The ects (engine coolant temp sensor, blue tipped usually) is different. Please refer to my description earlier to locate it. There are two sensors next to each other there make sure you pull the right one.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-14-2014, 02:00 PM
Monsignor's Avatar
Monsignor Monsignor is offline
BMW CCA Memeber #445389
Location: Pineapple Under the Sea
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,189
Mein Auto: M50 Big Body
You sound like you're describing a Crank Position Sensor to a tee. And it seems as though you've crossed off almost all the other usual suspects (FP being the biggest).

CPS is difficult to get to on M50s, I'm not sure about how hard it is on an M60 but I'm fairly certain it'll be worth it as I believe it is your fix.
__________________


1995 525iA 250k mi
2006 325i/6 57k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi

Instagram: @Titan_E34
Snapchat: Titan_E34
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-14-2014, 03:40 PM
E34ZombieHunter's Avatar
E34ZombieHunter E34ZombieHunter is offline
Nothin like an E34
Location: Lillington NC
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,607
Mein Auto: 95 540i B/B
On M60 it is very easy.
Take off the air intake and if you look at the harmonic balancer you will see it on the passenger side on a bracket above the balancer.
__________________

Gotta love an E34!!:thumb up:
If you want to get junkyard parts remember one thing, if it was wrecked you know it was running/driving. You may not know how well, but it was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
So a synopsis of a normally operating fan clutch:

Engine stone cold - fan clutch engaged
Engine at normal operating temp - fan clutch disengaged (easily stopped with the newspaper)
Engine above normal operating temp - fan clutch engaged
STOMP TEST

OEM Approved brands
READ ME IM THE BIBLE
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-16-2014, 01:02 PM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
Sorry for the late response guys. I haven't made any progress yet (little busy), I looked for the ect.. Couldn't find it... well I think I found it, but I'm not sure, I'll go take a picture of where I think it is in a second. The light on my dash that I was speaking of earlier (the coolant one) wasn't an actual light, but just one of the... I don't know what to call it.. but the words that come up in the center like hey you should fix your +coolant and +fog lights. Also my temperature sensor that gauges what my engine temperature actually is ( or is suppose to) has always been horribly wrong. Like itll constantly say I'm overheating by... well an extreme amount. So I know that that sensor has been malfunctioning for awhile.. Anyways I'm finally going to post that video. Its pretty awkward, and I don't think it'll help much.. but here it is (ps i'm not really breathing that loud I'm just blind so I had my face really close to the phone.)



Once again, thanks for your efforts.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-16-2014, 01:26 PM
capricornbmw capricornbmw is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Many places
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 395
Mein Auto: E36
1. That's the normal cranking sound for the engine. I don't think its cranking slowly as you feared earlier. Lets rule that out. And if it stops turning over, it woudl merely be time to recharge the battery.
2. Your ects is white tipped. Follow the directions I gave you earlier to locate it. Keep looking and you'll find it. More info over here (towards the bottom 1/3 of the page) :
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...760201&page=14

3. Pull the ects's connector, and attempt to start the car. If that does not work within 2 seconds (and does not sound like its about to work), stop, hold the throttle open, then attempt to start again.
4. This should not be a cps issues since the OP does not have any error codes. That said, OP, if you plan on keeping the car, plan on changing the fuel pump and cps anyway, sometime soon. Might even help the current situation.
5. The CPS is not difficult to change out on an M50 engine. The clutch fan does not need to be removed. After removing the head, the wire can be cut midway if it snakes awkwardly through the vanos unit area. The new cps can be resnaked appropriately.
6. Thanks for posting the video. It wasn't ****ty, and you sound really sweet.

p.s. Your video was tilted 90 degrees. Please note to change your phone position if any future videos are necessary (unlikely).

Last edited by capricornbmw; 04-16-2014 at 01:33 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-16-2014, 01:41 PM
TheEinstein's Avatar
TheEinstein TheEinstein is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Denver, CO
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 209
Mein Auto: E34 540i
If you have fuel pressure, and spark, I say change the Crankshaft Position Sensor for simple starters. It's a known point of failure, and that point of failure is known to give this exact result. Check out Zombies post just above for location. In his pic, it's the lil doohickie behind the belt just over the harmonic balancer (thing that looks like a gear).
__________________
1995 E34 540ia
155,000 Miles
VIN# ...GF32404
Hellrot Red

Fuelly

My Basic Repair History (Edited 4/7/2014)
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-16-2014, 04:00 PM
Monsignor's Avatar
Monsignor Monsignor is offline
BMW CCA Memeber #445389
Location: Pineapple Under the Sea
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,189
Mein Auto: M50 Big Body
That is 100% without a doubt unequivocally your crankshaft position sensor.
__________________


1995 525iA 250k mi
2006 325i/6 57k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi

Instagram: @Titan_E34
Snapchat: Titan_E34
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-16-2014, 04:05 PM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
Thanks everyone for somewhat breaking things down into some terms that I can understand.. (especially Einstein, even though I knew what a harmonic balancer was, it was nice to be confirmed that I actually knew.)

Capricorn - I'm definitely going to try these steps. I'm starting with the ect.. trying to find it, ha. I'm uploading a picture with this.. because I think I found it, but I'm really not sure. http://imgur.com/dSKvMtX

If thats it awesome, how do I disconnect it (my bentley manual just says "replacing ect.... disconnect it from the harness." fml) , if I'm very very badly off its okay to embarrass me, I kind of figured I would be.


Zombie - Thank you so much for the pictures, I love pictures. Anything you guys tell me I go try and find a picture of it so I can actually understand what you're saying.

Last edited by justNIKKI; 04-16-2014 at 04:09 PM. Reason: pic :(
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-16-2014, 04:08 PM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
Thanks Monsignor for the replies! - I'm looking into it right now, I previously heard something about a lightbulb/wire test to see if the sensor is working correctly. Does anyone know if this works for this sensor.. or if there is a better way to test it before replacing?
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 04-16-2014, 04:12 PM
Monsignor's Avatar
Monsignor Monsignor is offline
BMW CCA Memeber #445389
Location: Pineapple Under the Sea
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,189
Mein Auto: M50 Big Body
I think what youre describing is an Ohmmeter. It tests the voltage
__________________


1995 525iA 250k mi
2006 325i/6 57k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi

Instagram: @Titan_E34
Snapchat: Titan_E34
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 04-16-2014, 05:42 PM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
Definitely. I looked up how to test them.. results to follow.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 04-16-2014, 05:45 PM
capricornbmw capricornbmw is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Many places
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 395
Mein Auto: E36
1. Check out the first video in this post :

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=66

It shows you where the ects is located. It should be white tipped on your car. Don't disconnect the other one (there are two sensors over there), and if you can't see down clearly enough to tell which is which, or if both happen to be the same colour, then disconnect both, but please make sure that you can reconnect them back to the correct sensors after that, so find some simple way to distinguish that. You cannot mix up the connectors, they are for two different sensors that serve two different functions.

2. This is not the cps for sure at all. It could be a bad dme. It could be flooding caused by a bad ects. It could be bore wash caused by cylinder flooding prompted by a bad ects. On the E34, 90% of the no start situations are caused by the fuel pump, fp relay, cps, main relay, bad ects. 85% are caused by the fuel pump, fp relay and cps. Only individual troubleshooting will ID the correct problem.

3. OP, you read the list. All the items on that list should be replaced now or soon, whether your engine is running or not, if you intend to keep the car for the long term. That's one of the benefits of driving an old, well loved car - foreseeability. Relays cost $15, ects - $20, fp - $110, cps - $40-$90, all oem. Never buy non-oem for these critical parts, especially when oem itself is that cheap.

Last edited by capricornbmw; 04-16-2014 at 05:56 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 04-16-2014, 05:51 PM
E34ZombieHunter's Avatar
E34ZombieHunter E34ZombieHunter is offline
Nothin like an E34
Location: Lillington NC
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,607
Mein Auto: 95 540i B/B
The ECTS has a metal retainer around it. On the side closest to the fender is a dip in the plastic push in on the metal part and it will pull up.
You circled the right one, it is on the coolant thingy back there, white tipped.
Shown here

If you need more help to unplug it, try to unplug any one of the connectors near you air intake on the engine. They also have the metal retainer on them.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1098.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	89.5 KB
ID:	434147  
__________________

Gotta love an E34!!:thumb up:
If you want to get junkyard parts remember one thing, if it was wrecked you know it was running/driving. You may not know how well, but it was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
So a synopsis of a normally operating fan clutch:

Engine stone cold - fan clutch engaged
Engine at normal operating temp - fan clutch disengaged (easily stopped with the newspaper)
Engine above normal operating temp - fan clutch engaged
STOMP TEST

OEM Approved brands
READ ME IM THE BIBLE

Last edited by E34ZombieHunter; 04-16-2014 at 05:52 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 04-16-2014, 06:20 PM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
So I saw that you would be able to test the plug to see if it was bad or not. Mine tested for 508ohms, which I read it was normal... Is there any more testing that you guys would do to make sure its not bad?
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 04-16-2014, 06:25 PM
E34ZombieHunter's Avatar
E34ZombieHunter E34ZombieHunter is offline
Nothin like an E34
Location: Lillington NC
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,607
Mein Auto: 95 540i B/B
Unplug it and try to start. If you are talking about the ECTS
I also believe this is 100% the CPS.
__________________

Gotta love an E34!!:thumb up:
If you want to get junkyard parts remember one thing, if it was wrecked you know it was running/driving. You may not know how well, but it was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
So a synopsis of a normally operating fan clutch:

Engine stone cold - fan clutch engaged
Engine at normal operating temp - fan clutch disengaged (easily stopped with the newspaper)
Engine above normal operating temp - fan clutch engaged
STOMP TEST

OEM Approved brands
READ ME IM THE BIBLE
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 04-16-2014, 06:47 PM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
I wanted to see what happened when I unplugged it and tried to start it... but then my battery was dead. The brand new battery that I've had unplugged... My car ate my other battery 2 weeks ago right after this first happened. Ugh.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 04-16-2014, 07:00 PM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
PS in the previous post about the 508ohms that was for my CPS not my ECTS..
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 04-16-2014, 07:19 PM
capricornbmw capricornbmw is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Many places
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 395
Mein Auto: E36
Quote:
Originally Posted by justNIKKI View Post
PS in the previous post about the 508ohms that was for my CPS not my ECTS..
Cps ohms out perfectly. Its should be 540 ohms +- 10% to account for hot/cold variance. That means that it can read as low as 486 ohms and as high as 594 ohms and it would be ok.

Last edited by capricornbmw; 04-16-2014 at 07:20 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 04-17-2014, 04:19 AM
justNIKKI justNIKKI is offline
Registered User
Location: Spokane WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 540i 94
today I'm going to install a new battery (#3) and then try to start the car without the cps plugged in just to see. then I'll plug it back in and unplug the ects . I think I'll have better luck unplgguing it this time since I get the metal bracket thing now. I'll try to start it... if that doesn't work I was thinking about cleaning off my cps I read that if oil gets on the cps it won't work. and immediately before all this happened I sis an oil change... suggestions? I'll post results.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E34 (1989 - 1995)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:30 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms