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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 01-15-2016, 08:51 AM
Vinnie D's Avatar
Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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Location: Michigan
 
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Mein Auto: 1990 E34 535i Automatic
90' E34 535i Maintenance List

Updated Maintenance List.



I bought this car in June - 2015 (Last owner for the past 4 years (last 4 years the car was driven by a teenage girl)and during the 21 years prior to that Carfax shows the new tittle 7 times (7 new owners? I don't know) fixes and maintenance on the car were just done when something would break down (except from regular oil change)



- 173k miles when I bought it.



90' E34 535i automatic



A mechanic replaced both lower control arms, left inner and outer tie rods.





DIY performed on the updating/replacement of parts since July 2015 up to date:



- Oil change w/ mobile 1

- New R/L sway bar links (OEM);

- New Air Filter;

- New Power Steering Reservoir + filter + new PS fluid;

- New Fuel Filter (OEM);

- New Brake Light Switch

- New Differential Fluid;

- New upper and lower radiator hose (OEM);

- New from thermostat housing to water pump hose (OEM)

- New vent pipe and hose from expansion tank to radiator (OEM)

- New Thermostat, housing and housing cover (plus gaskets) (OEM)

- New cooling fan blade and fan clutch (OEM)

- New Valve Cover gasket + Valv. adjustment

- New Nissens radiator;

- Coolant flush and refilled w/ BMW coolant

- New Auto transmission fluid, filter and pan gasket;

- New Crankshaft Position Sensor 12/15 (Performed during the development of this thread)

- New Throttle Position Sensor 12/15 (Performed during the development of this thread) (Keeping old for spare)



----------------------------------------------

2016



- Cleaned Idle Control Valve (ICV) 1/16

- Cleaned Throttle Body 1/16

- New Temperature Sensor 1/16

- New Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor 1/16

- Replaced Motor Blower Fuse for a 20amp 1/16

- Set of Spare Fuses (7.5a, 15a, 20a, and 30amps fuse) 1/16

- Tube of Dielectric Grease 1/16

- Tube of Silicone Sealer 1/16

** Fuel Pump Relay (Can't unscrew the screws holding down relay box - Working on getting this open)

- New Body Moulding (R/F doors and Fenders) - Pending Installing - Waiting on plastic pins)

- New Coolant Level Sensor (Delivery ETA Jan 12)

- Taped all visible wires that had lost insulating layer with Electrical Sealing Tape.

- Applied Dielectric grease at various plug connections

- New muffler (1/16)

- Rear Sway Bar Links (4 parts total)

- Crystal Vision Ultra Philips low beam headlight bulbs
(2/16)

- Diesel Engine Flush

- Oil Change + Filter

- New Ignition Rotor

- New Ignition cap

- New Stainless Steel Brake Hoses

- New Rear Rotors

- Rear struts, strut mounts, bump stop, dust cover

- Front struts, strut mounts, bump stop, dust cover

- New lowering springs


*****Pending/Needed/Future Updates:*******

- Radiator Backflush

- New Water Pump

- New Fuel Pump

- Used Injection DME (for spare)

- New Oil Pan Gasket

- New Timing Case Gasket

- Differential Seal


- New Brake fluid



* Approx. 75% of brake pads left, rear and front.

My computer says "Brake Linings" but as I removed the wheel to do the brakes, I observed that the pads are still in good shape for a while, though in preparation for the job I had new (R/F) brake pads, pad wear sensors, a set of stainless steel brake hoses, and fluid.



* Brake hoses were also inspected for stiffness and possible leaks. They appear to be in good shape, but when I am changing the pads, I will replace them with the stainless steel hoses.

Last edited by Vinnie D; 04-27-2016 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 01-31-2016, 04:59 PM
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Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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Location: Michigan
 
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Mein Auto: 1990 E34 535i Automatic
90' E34 535i Maintenance List

New muffler -

Hey fellows, just some pictures of the DIY to replace the muffler pipe.

1. Remove rear bumper (remove bumper trims first to have access to the nuts holding the bumper in place)

2. Remove the 4 nuts (have your set of metric sockets, I can't recall the exact size now)
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3. Remove bumper holding as much to the extreme sides as possible so it can come out evenly and somewhat easily.
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4. Now you have access to the muffler. Start unscrewing the screws on the metal clips holding the muffler on the sides
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5. Next, unscrew the screws/nuts from the clamp holding the muffler on the center exhaust piece. Mine was very corroded, so I had to chisel it out and break it
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6. Once all the clamps are removed, work on removing the muffler, pulling it towards you, away from the car.

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7. Grab new muffler. The day before installation, I primed it and coated with high heat paint from autozone ($9 a can). I wanted to do this just to delay the corrosion process, since we have a lot of salt on the roads during the winter, here in Michigan. Though, wherever you live, I would do it just for extra protection to the metal.

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8. Installing is the reverse of removing. Though, apply exhaust paste on the outside of the pipe ends from the resonator, and on the insides of the pipe ends from the muffler, so it provides good sealing. (Sorry, didn't take a photo of the exhaust paste on the muffler pipes)

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9. Make sure to have clamps already on the muffler pipes. Connect the muffler pipes to the resonator's pipe, then push it forward as much as you can. It helps to have an extra set of hands to help you in this process (I did) or else, you can use a floor jack to be the support for the muffler. Tight the clamps good.

After connecting the parts, I sprayed more high heat primer on the area to get the clamps and the pipes the muffler was connecting to, though, I might have to redo this, since I had to drive not too long after installation, and the paint might have not had enough time to cure properly.

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10. Reinstall the exhaust brackets that go onto the muffler body's side (the first brackets you removed in the beginning), make sure they are tight and the muffler feels firm in place. The bracket on the left side of the muffler was bad and rusted, but the one on the right side was still good and it was strong enough to hold the muffler by itself firmly, until I can buy a new bracket for the left side, which I will do soon, it is less than $15.

11. Reinstall the bumper, and you are all set!

12. Enjoy the nice and quiet sound of your bimmer, and you won't ever feel ashamed to pull up to places because your car sounds like it has no muffler and everybody knows you're coming down the street before you even turn on it !
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Last edited by Vinnie D; 01-31-2016 at 07:36 PM.
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2016, 02:47 PM
Dionte Dionte is offline
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Old 02-12-2016, 12:32 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Good to see the e34 535i's are getting more love again. Keep up the good work.
One of the best upgrades you can do to it is going to a 5spd manual swap.
You will not regret it. And if you don't know how to drive a 5 spd manual...learn, again you won't regret it.
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:17 AM
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Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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Thank you fellows!
Maybe in the future - and yes, I know how to drive manual. Where I grew up, 95% of the cars are manual
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Old 03-26-2016, 05:08 PM
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Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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90' E34 535i Maintenance List

Hi fellows,

Could anybody suggest a quality top coat and clear coat that I could use to refurbish a pair of fenders, and that would be last a
decent time(a couple of years maybe?). If needed (most likely will), I do have a friend who has a spray gun and air compressor I can get help from.

I have used Scratchwizard (spray can) to redo my bumpers, but maybe due to the surface being plastic, I had some of it being chipped out after washing it at the self car wash with a pressure hose when it was at freezing temp.

I shared the event with Andy and he thinks the chipping could have been due to the surface the paint was on being plastic and not metal..

Actually, I also did the metal trim that goes under the grills and it still looks
good.

Anyways, suggestions and new ideas would be appreciated!

(Images are from last year, about a month after I bought the car)

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I also used the same type of paint when I resorted the bottom of my doors that had the common rust built up in the weather sill.

After sanding and brush wired the door bottom, I used rust converter (the black coating) then primer,
matching Top coat and clear coat.

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Last edited by Vinnie D; 03-26-2016 at 05:10 PM.
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  #7  
Old 03-26-2016, 05:10 PM
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Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:48 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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Old 03-27-2016, 12:05 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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Hey Vinnie, was that video any help??

Really, is has some good tips, like using the adhesion promoter on plastic to make the paint stick. If you have paint flaking, I'm afraid it's all going to have to be stripped off to prevent the flaking from recurring. BTDT
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:03 PM
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Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard View Post
Hey Vinnie, was that video any help??

Really, is has some good tips, like using the adhesion promoter on plastic to make the paint stick. If you have paint flaking, I'm afraid it's all going to have to be stripped off to prevent the flaking from recurring. BTDT

Yes sir! Though the only different thing I did from what they advise, was that I think I used sandpaper instead of that pad they use to scuff the plastic..

I'll see when the weather here gets more consistent and I might have to redo the whole bumper.. And with the fenders it will be a "will see what happens as time goes by" type of deal..
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:20 PM
south26 south26 is offline
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Nice to meet you and hope the fenders turn out great.


Andy
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:11 PM
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Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by south26 View Post
Nice to meet you and hope the fenders turn out great.


Andy

Likewise, Andy!
I'll keep you updated on the refurbishing and replacement of the fenders when they are ready to be installed!

I appreciate the time and all tips! Nice visit!
And back home now!
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:02 PM
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Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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Mr. Gray,
Actually, if I repeat the same process I've done to my doors, from the black trim(half door heigh) down, the fenders should be fine. So far, the doors looks good still, except for one side, instead of the regular clear coat, I decided to apply polyurethane to see if it was any better (chemistry experiment), and it happens that it is not. It is flaking and coming off. The side I used clear coat is doing fine.
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:32 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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Rust on the doors is almost impossible to defeat long-term. It develops behind that pinch at the bottom of the door skin and it's nearly impossible to eliminate because moisture enters the joint from inside the door shell. I've toyed with the idea of using a product called Fluid Film to block the moisture, spraying it through the bottom drain holes, but three of my doors are already pretty compromised.
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:47 PM
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Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard View Post
Rust on the doors is almost impossible to defeat long-term. It develops behind that pinch at the bottom of the door skin and it's nearly impossible to eliminate because moisture enters the joint from inside the door shell. I've toyed with the idea of using a product called Fluid Film to block the moisture, spraying it through the bottom drain holes, but three of my doors are already pretty compromised.
I agree with you there about the rust. My goal is to slow down the process, but I expect to have to deal with it again in the future, I just hope that is not in a near future.

I am not sure about the name, but during my research on the rust repair on the doors, I did come across a product that is very similar to what you're describing. I didn't do anything relating to the inside of the door shell (which now you game me an idea, I think I will spray lithium grease (spray form) in that hole and I am sure it will repel some of the water and it will keep the metal protected to a certain extent, just a thought), but what I did to the outside (where the bottom of the door meets the weather trim) was, I applied lithium grease (lithium just because that is what a friend suggested me to get as being good for many things, but I guess you can use any grease), prior to install the weather trim (it also made it easier to slide the trim over to the door bottom), then I applied more grease on the top of the trim, where the door faces the car's interior. All these I mentioned were ideas related to the fact the grease repels water, but the results I will only be able to confirm with time and observation.


To my point in regards to how the paint is doing on the door, I sanded (just enough to create a biting surface to the primer) half the doors down, and applied primer, top coat and clear coat. I decided to do that just to add extra protection, taking in consideration there's aggressive action of salty roads here (I would expect something similar where you are) so anything I could do to beef up the metal, in my mind, it would help slowing down the corrosion process.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:35 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard View Post
Rust on the doors is almost impossible to defeat long-term. It develops behind that pinch at the bottom of the door skin and it's nearly impossible to eliminate because moisture enters the joint from inside the door shell. I've toyed with the idea of using a product called Fluid Film to block the moisture, spraying it through the bottom drain holes, but three of my doors are already pretty compromised.
Thinking about this, you're on to something.
What I've found is the moisture comes from both ends (inside and outside) collecting in the pinch.
Inside from weak window seals, outside from the lower trim exposing the metal to moisture and salt.

My idea based on this is the following:
The pinch from the outside can be handled with a wire wheel and some creative sanding to get the surface clear.
That's the easy part.
Inside the doors you'd have to lay down something similar to POR15 to convert and bond to the rust already formed in the pinch if applicable (given that the rust isn't too bad)
From there you could seal/ fill the pinch afterwards leveling it out with the bottom of the door.
Once you do that you could drill a hole at the bottom of the door, install and seal a non rising grommet while treating the inside of the door.
This should provide a drain for any roll off water and/moisture that accumulates within the door.

I did something similar to zaraki when the roof drains ate a hole in the fender, and unibody.
I cleared the rust and drilled a hole under the dead pedal extending the drain hose out through the hole.
I then used fiberglass to seal it all. Though its a parts car now, no more leaks and the area is waterproof showing zero corrosion.
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Last edited by MySatinDoll; 03-27-2016 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:15 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MySatinDoll View Post
Thinking about this, you're on to something.
What I've found is the moisture comes from both ends (inside and outside) collecting in the pinch.
Inside from weak window seals, outside from the lower trim exposing the metal to moisture and salt.

My idea based on this is the following:
The pinch from the outside can be handled with a wire wheel and some creative sanding to get the surface clear.
That's the easy part.
Inside the doors you'd have to lay down something similar to POR15 to convert and bond to the rust already formed in the pinch if applicable (given that the rust isn't too bad)
From there you could seal/ fill the pinch afterwards leveling it out with the bottom of the door.
Once you do that you could drill a hole at the bottom of the door, install and seal a non rising grommet while treating the inside of the door.
This should provide a drain for any roll off water and/moisture that accumulates within the door.
Yep, that's why the area is so vulnerable to rust -- it's attacked from inside and out.

I think the best way to get sealer inside the door is to remove the door card for access. There tends to be a lot of dirt caught in that pinch that should be flushed out before applying any sealant -- otherwise a moisture trap gets sealed in to foster corrosion.

It might be possible to blast some of the dirt out with compressed air, but it would be hard to do through the door drains, working blindly, I think. I've found stuff like broken glass inside doors that tends to get wedged into that pinch.

As for the fenders, I like to pull the plastic fender linings out of the front wheel wells every year or two so I can clear out the junk that has accumulated inside the fender drains. Twigs, pine needles, leaves and other junk has a way of falling down there from the cowl and sunroof drains, where it collects moisture that can rot out the lower fenders and rockers.
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:59 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard View Post
Yep, that's why the area is so vulnerable to rust -- it's attacked from inside and out.

I think the best way to get sealer inside the door is to remove the door card for access. There tends to be a lot of dirt caught in that pinch that should be flushed out before applying any sealant -- otherwise a moisture trap gets sealed in to foster corrosion.

It might be possible to blast some of the dirt out with compressed air, but it would be hard to do through the door drains, working blindly, I think. I've found stuff like broken glass inside doors that tends to get wedged into that pinch.

As for the fenders, I like to pull the plastic fender linings out of the front wheel wells every year or two so I can clear out the junk that has accumulated inside the fender drains. Twigs, pine needles, leaves and other junk has a way of falling down there from the cowl and sunroof drains, where it collects moisture that can rot out the lower fenders and rockers.
Exactly. Yes, going into the door from behind the door card is what I meant about sealing things and filling the pinch.
Obviously this would be after converting the rust from the inside with IMO Por15.

It should work. Well at least in theory.

The only issue that would derive would be a build up of moisture / water inside the door.
Hence a drain placed strategically within the inside expelling the water / moisture out before it can cause any further damage.

I too found glass and foreign objects in the crease on my black car. So all that junk would have to be removed and the crease fully dried out.
Being I'm having my car painted and have fresh doors being installed. I have the opportunity to see if it would work in practice.

I'm thinking the lower trim may also need the same attention. That goes for all the pre and post production e34s. For both trims corrode.

Again you're on to something here. Maybe it's time for a DIY.

OH Crap... Sorry OP. Graybeard and I didn't mean to hijack your thread.
Sometimes you have to jot ideas down before they're lost forever.

Carry on
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Last edited by MySatinDoll; 03-28-2016 at 05:41 AM.
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Old 03-28-2016, 04:26 AM
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Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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MSD - Im learning too, so, please share the knowledge and ideas, you both have good ones
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Old 03-28-2016, 05:50 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Originally Posted by Vinnie D View Post
MSD - Im learning too, so, please share the knowledge and ideas, you both have good ones
Appreciate that. What Graybeard and I are talking about essentially is a reverse Ziebart on the doors. For the younger crowd, Ziebartting a car was a popular way of rust proofing your car. It's still done today, but the service isn't cheap.
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Old 03-28-2016, 06:27 AM
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Vinnie D Vinnie D is offline
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Originally Posted by MySatinDoll View Post
Appreciate that. What Graybeard and I are talking about essentially is a reverse Ziebart on the doors. For the younger crowd, Ziebartting a car was a popular way of rust proofing your car. It's still done today, but the service isn't cheap.

That is actually an excellent idea, as long as you manage to spray/apply the coating in there. How much disassembly would be necessary to get decent access to the inner face of the door where application would be done, though? That is the part that makes me scratch my head.

They donít have that Zeibart in spray version, do they?
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Old 03-28-2016, 09:07 AM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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One option I didn't go into last night because I was getting sleepy: the Fluid Film product I referred to earlier. You could spray that inside the door bottoms through the drains at the bottom of the door, using a spray straw. It would seal off the seam area AND coat what ever detritus is lying in the bottom of the door. It's a viscous lanolin product that never dries out, and it creeps into cracks and crevices. It does require renewal from time to time as the elements take their toll, maybe once a year. So it would be far less permanent that POR-15 -- but a lot easier to apply.
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Old 03-28-2016, 09:23 AM
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TheEinstein TheEinstein is online now
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Something I came across a while back when I was trying to address the bottom door trim pieces and the rust developing on that lip. It's a pretty seemingly educated discussion, and they mention that fluid film stuff as well.

http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...-drain.613463/
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:29 AM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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I just bought a 3-pack of Fluid Film aerosol cans on Amazon. My heirs will probably find at least one when they're cleaning out my garage.
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:38 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard View Post
One option I didn't go into last night because I was getting sleepy: the Fluid Film product I referred to earlier. You could spray that inside the door bottoms through the drains at the bottom of the door, using a spray straw. It would seal off the seam area AND coat what ever detritus is lying in the bottom of the door. It's a viscous lanolin product that never dries out, and it creeps into cracks and crevices. It does require renewal from time to time as the elements take their toll, maybe once a year. So it would be far less permanent that POR-15 -- but a lot easier to apply.
I think it's a excellent idea and well worth trying. I too have heard of Fluid Film and it's results.
I'm partial to POR 15 only because of my experience with it compared to the more conventional rust converting products out there.
It's one of the very few products that does exactly what it says it does. It stops the rust, cancer, the big red demon, permanently.

Zaraki was about 80% rust when I got it. 60% was removeable panels the other 20% required heavy body work.
Being it was the BF.C forum whore and once a ice racer it was nasty.
I used POR 15 on all the spots where the cancer was light to requiring fresh metal.
Over the past few years none of these locations have shown reformation of rust from time of service to now being a parts car.
But this is only my experience and not to hinder anyone from using other products.
For if it works and it's easier and cheaper to apply, lasts just as long if not for the life of the car.
I'm all for it and interested in the results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEinstein View Post
Something I came across a while back when I was trying to address the bottom door trim pieces and the rust developing on that lip. It's a pretty seemingly educated discussion, and they mention that fluid film stuff as well.

http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...-drain.613463/
I just read that. Very informative thread. But I think by the time this conversation is done be it from end results or we take this to a whole new thread.
It will help the e34 community. That said if someone wants to start said thread. Include this dialog so people can catch up and not clog the OP's build thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinnie D View Post
That is actually an excellent idea, as long as you manage to spray/apply the coating in there. How much disassembly would be necessary to get decent access to the inner face of the door where application would be done, though? That is the part that makes me scratch my head.

They don't have that Zeibart in spray version, do they?
No they provide a service. They may have produced some products for commercial use.
However I've never seen any.
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Last edited by MySatinDoll; 03-28-2016 at 12:41 PM.
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