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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old Yesterday, 07:06 AM
firehawk17 firehawk17 is offline
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radiator

What does it mean the radiator is hot on one side and cool on the other? The actual aluminum flat surface of the radiator has very different temperatures from upper hose side (hot) lower hose side (cool/cold).. I'm not getting heat or circulation btw
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  #2  
Old Yesterday, 07:46 AM
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bartelbe bartelbe is offline
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If one side of the radiator is hot and the other side cooler then its working properly, causes of no cabin heat can be a wide variety of reasons starting with low coolant level, air trapped in the heater core , re-circulation pump not working, heat valves stuck closed , I could go on and on but will need more info on your part to help narrow it down.
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  #3  
Old Yesterday, 08:05 AM
firehawk17 firehawk17 is offline
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I don't know how to check if the circulation pump is working properly. .or how to get air out the heater core if that's the case.. but prior to it not having heat at all my heat was intermittent. .. my temp gauge would go toward red back to the middle then back to cold..and that's where it stays now..stays in the cold..
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Old Yesterday, 10:20 AM
edjack edjack is online now
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Get thee to a BMW shop for checkout.
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  #5  
Old Yesterday, 05:16 PM
1hander 1hander is offline
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the temp gauge thing sounds scary
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  #6  
Old Yesterday, 05:32 PM
occhis occhis is offline
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You need to first properly bleed the cooling system (details abound in this forum). If the problem persists then look further.
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  #7  
Old Yesterday, 05:37 PM
firehawk17 firehawk17 is offline
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I've bled the system numerous times and I had the water replace the shop bled the system as well.. so I'm quite sure it isn't an air bubble
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  #8  
Old Yesterday, 05:53 PM
dirtybrd dirtybrd is offline
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Sounds like a bad water pump or thermostat
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  #9  
Old Yesterday, 06:05 PM
firehawk17 firehawk17 is offline
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Water pump and thermostat have been changed 3 weeks ago..
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  #10  
Old Yesterday, 06:47 PM
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bartelbe bartelbe is offline
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The re-circulation pump is mounted on the driver side inside engine compartment on the fender wall you'll see 1 coolant hose going in and two coming out leading into the firewall
Where you'll see a third hose better yet see pic I provide theres a small two wire connector that plugs into the re-circulation pump this pump should have a slight vibration to the touch but may not be able to feel its a bastard of a contraption but anyway check power at these two wires 1's ground and 1's power should se 12v+ "system voltage" if you have voltage then you can try jumping it directly with the engine off to see if you can hear it running. One of my 528i have almost the identical issues your experiencing and I have trace my issue to this stupid pump but haven't had the time to sit down and think it threw of why it causes the symptoms we experience if it doesn't work. And since its summer its not on the top of my list but its definitely in the top 3 of things to figure out. The issues I have and you can see if there are identical to yours are; No heat untill engine rpms reach 1300 and engine temp will climb into red and will lower back down to normal once I start getting heat threw the vents which is only above 1300 rpm and all this only happens when its cold outside with the heater commanded. and before anyone says air in my system I fill all my engines with a vacuum so there is no air period in the system, and both the water pump and thermostat and the radiator and hoses are all new not only that but if I jump the stupid re-circulation pump the car never has a issue and works properly. 1st pic is the firwall hoses, 2nd is of the re-circulation pump "directly under the fuel lines and 3rd pic is the two wires the connect into the pump itself.
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  #11  
Old Yesterday, 06:53 PM
firehawk17 firehawk17 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartelbe View Post
The re-circulation pump is mounted on the driver side inside engine compartment on the fender wall you'll see 1 coolant hose going in and two coming out leading into the firewall
Where you'll see a third hose better yet see pic I provide theres a small two wire connector that plugs into the re-circulation pump this pump should have a slight vibration to the touch but may not be able to feel its a bastard of a contraption but anyway check power at these two wires 1's ground and 1's power should se 12v+ "system voltage" if you have voltage then you can try jumping it directly with the engine off to see if you can hear it running. One of my 528i have almost the identical issues your experiencing and I have trace my issue to this stupid pump but haven't had the time to sit down and think it threw of why it causes the symptoms we experience if it doesn't work. And since its summer its not on the top of my list but its definitely in the top 3 of things to figure out. The issues I have and you can see if there are identical to yours are; No heat untill engine rpms reach 1300 and engine temp will climb into red and will lower back down to normal once I start getting heat threw the vents which is only above 1300 rpm and all this only happens when its cold outside with the heater commanded. and before anyone says air in my system I fill all my engines with a vacuum so there is no air period in the system, and both the water pump and thermostat and the radiator and hoses are all new not only that but if I jump the stupid re-circulation pump the car never has a issue and works properly. 1st pic is the firwall hoses, 2nd is of the re-circulation pump "directly under the fuel lines and 3rd pic is the two wires the connect into the pump itself.
Yes i have found the pump as well but I didn't know any way of testing it but when I touched it I didn't feel any vibration at all.. so ur not getting circulation either?
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Old Yesterday, 07:36 PM
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bartelbe bartelbe is offline
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Correct, at low idle at idle above 1300 I start to get circulation threw the heater core and heat, but there is some many more questions that I have then answers at this point such
at what ambient outside air does this pump activate or is it activated with hvac control unit powered up , since I am a all or nothing guy when it comes to interior temp i dont set my temp on auto and it either 90 or 60 in the display I regulate my comfort by either fan speed or a window or both. I am inclined to think that the pump is activated all the time and then interior air temp is regulated threw the use of the coolant valves which are normally open "default" but if the display is at 60 and ac on then those valves would have to be closed to prevent any heat to contaminate the cold ac air. I think I read somewhere that this pump aids in low idle coolant circulation but of course thats all it stated. And another question is why exactly does the engine overheat when this pump not working. I have seen many of these similar issue threads all with the exact symptoms as us and the exact model 97 & 98 528i. To test the pump at first just shaved a little insulation off the power and ground wires at the pump and hook up a couple of alligator clips and jumped them to there correct polarity and re tested to confirm my theroy. I then went to the junk yard and found the connector and cut it off leaving enough wires to run the power wire to a key'ed power source and then just use chassis ground I have yet to complete my project since its summer I dont care about heat right now but winter is coming quick
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  #13  
Old Yesterday, 07:51 PM
firehawk17 firehawk17 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartelbe View Post
Correct, at low idle at idle above 1300 I start to get circulation threw the heater core and heat, but there is some many more questions that I have then answers at this point such
at what ambient outside air does this pump activate or is it activated with hvac control unit powered up , since I am a all or nothing guy when it comes to interior temp i dont set my temp on auto and it either 90 or 60 in the display I regulate my comfort by either fan speed or a window or both. I am inclined to think that the pump is activated all the time and then interior air temp is regulated threw the use of the coolant valves which are normally open "default" but if the display is at 60 and ac on then those valves would have to be closed to prevent any heat to contaminate the cold ac air. I think I read somewhere that this pump aids in low idle coolant circulation but of course thats all it stated. And another question is why exactly does the engine overheat when this pump not working. I have seen many of these similar issue threads all with the exact symptoms as us and the exact model 97 & 98 528i. To test the pump at first just shaved a little insulation off the power and ground wires at the pump and hook up a couple of alligator clips and jumped them to there correct polarity and re tested to confirm my theroy. I then went to the junk yard and found the connector and cut it off leaving enough wires to run the power wire to a key'ed power source and then just use chassis ground I have yet to complete my project since its summer I dont care about heat right now but winter is coming quick
I'm not getting any heat at idle. ..haven't tried it driving since issue occured... but both radiator hoses are hot and pressure builds... my auxiliary fan isn't working either..but radiator is cool on lower hose side...crazy. I may try exactly what ur doing... he'll can't hurt
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  #14  
Old Yesterday, 08:58 PM
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bartelbe bartelbe is offline
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On both of my 528i's " 97 & 98" the aux fan doesn't kick until the ac is on and the engine temp reachs 225 f . And have only seen it kick on with the ac on as well. I am not the one to rig sh! t together but last winter was absolutely brutal and since my wife drives the car with the issue I had to "patch it" to save the engine from cooking since my beloved wife doesn't exactly understand that particular gauge pegged isn't a good thing " reason why I dont like her to drive my other two" . So as soon as I figure out this fuel gauge issue on my other 528i " 1/2 = full " I'll be focussing on the heat issue.
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