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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)
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#1
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Just left to go to the store and my keys remote has quit working so I have to unlock the door the old fashshion way. Could the battery maybe just have crapped out? I know the ignition charges the key. I usually don't drive the car for extended periods, but mainly brief drives. Maybe I need to get a new key? It's about $130 at the dealership and I need a spare anyways. The alarm still works fine. Just not the remote on the key.
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![]() *Der E38* manufactured: 7/01 color: anthrecite metallic wheels: style 89 E66, 19X9F 19X10R ext. lighting: 8000k D2S & LED plate light *want to get sport rear diff* |
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#2
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Do you have the diamond shape key? It has the automatic recharging battery.
![]() Try the reinitialization procedure on e38.org. If you have two master keys, do them both at the same time. If they don't both work, try doing them in the other order. #1 then #2, and if that doesn't work, do #2 then #1. More important if you have three master keys. The older style (like my early production 2000) has a 2032 or 2025 battery in it. ![]() (Pics from e-bay) |
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#3
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yes mine is the diamond shaped key with automatic charging battery. the unlock function has become weaker and weaker. now not working at all. i will test it tomorrow at work to see if it is sending any type of signal. if not, i would suspect the battery has gone flat.
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![]() *Der E38* manufactured: 7/01 color: anthrecite metallic wheels: style 89 E66, 19X9F 19X10R ext. lighting: 8000k D2S & LED plate light *want to get sport rear diff* |
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#4
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tested the RF signal, nothing. the battery is flat and isnt charging. so am i going to just need to buy a new key? i'm trying putting the key in the ignition the oposite way i ususally do, flipping it over. maybe it will charge but i doubt it. i've noticed since i bought the car the remote's signal has become weaker and weaker over time.
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![]() *Der E38* manufactured: 7/01 color: anthrecite metallic wheels: style 89 E66, 19X9F 19X10R ext. lighting: 8000k D2S & LED plate light *want to get sport rear diff* |
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#5
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Put that key in ignition and go for a very long drive?
Try this? http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=315311 |
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#6
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im pretty good doing something like that. i wonder if i can find a battery like this from radio shack? if so that would be perfect, but likely i'd have to order online like the how to showed. i'm going to order a new key though, i really need a spare key anyways since the car was sold to me with only one key. wonder how long this will take? i think i need the title or some other paper work. i'll be ordering it through the dealership that sold it to me so i dont think i'll have too much trouble. guess i'll see tomorrow.
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![]() *Der E38* manufactured: 7/01 color: anthrecite metallic wheels: style 89 E66, 19X9F 19X10R ext. lighting: 8000k D2S & LED plate light *want to get sport rear diff* |
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#7
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Only one key? I would definately have at least one spare, even if not a full remote master key. The battery issue is a good excuse for you to go get one, I guess.
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#8
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$180 at the dealership. ive already spent enough on the car this month. but its really a pain in the butt. im contemplating waiting, but i dunno.
__________________
![]() *Der E38* manufactured: 7/01 color: anthrecite metallic wheels: style 89 E66, 19X9F 19X10R ext. lighting: 8000k D2S & LED plate light *want to get sport rear diff* |
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#9
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That is about right. You can buy a spare (valet) key or wallet key as your back-up for less if you don't want to spend the money for a master. But, lock your one and only key in the car and you will pay more to break in, or you will be buying a second key anyway - still locked out while waiting for the key to arrive!
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#10
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i went this evening and ordered the key. requires photo copies of the registration and photo ID. all said and done i spent $179 on a new master key. i will later order a valet key as well. i dont usually have trouble with loosing my keys, im good at keeping them safe. but having a back up key isnt a bad idea either. not sure what a velet key will cost, hopefully less than $130.
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![]() *Der E38* manufactured: 7/01 color: anthrecite metallic wheels: style 89 E66, 19X9F 19X10R ext. lighting: 8000k D2S & LED plate light *want to get sport rear diff* |
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#11
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Valet key for my 98 was around $45, and non remotte diamond metal key $65. Went with the metal one, plastic keys just don't do much for me, even if they are an "emergency" spare.
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#12
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i picked up the key yesterday. they couldnt seem to get it to program. i took the car in this morning. i even showed up about 45 minutes late. i was there about an hour or so before they got to my car, which was ok. but they didnt even charge me for programing it, which was very nice. i dont know what they would charge to customize the settings. i'm guessing about $120, maybe less. anyone know? its so nice to have the remote working again.
__________________
![]() *Der E38* manufactured: 7/01 color: anthrecite metallic wheels: style 89 E66, 19X9F 19X10R ext. lighting: 8000k D2S & LED plate light *want to get sport rear diff* |
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#13
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recode key
Quote:
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#14
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If in the market for a spare key...I would highly recommend either the illuminated key, or the plastic wallet/spare key. The valet key could prove to be useless if you lock the keys in the trunk...the valet key can't open the trunk nor the glovebox...so you could still be potentially locked out of your car....especially if you keep the trunk in the SECURED horizontal position ( -- ) ...when the trunk lock cylinder is left in the secured "horizontal" position...the interior lock buttons (on ctr console & trunk release button down by the parking brake) don't work. You can only open the trunk with the master key manually, or by using the remote trunk release button on the master key...which in this scenario is locked in the trunk...and the valet key does NOT open the trunk.
So again, if looking for a back up spare key to have on hand...and you're gonna be storing it in a drawer etc...then spring for the any of the other keys...but SKIP the VALET KEY since it has limited use.
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509} 2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date (SOLD) 99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White) 91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit) Last edited by QSilver7; 02-27-2010 at 10:10 AM. |
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#15
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Fix!
Hello, let me tell you my little story maybe it will be of any help to anyone out there with a similar problem.
Problem: I can open and close my car with the key using trunk lock cylinder (my front door lock cylinder is different for some reason, bought it used like that). I can start my car with that same key (i have only one). But it won't do anything when i press any of the buttons on the key. History: I've read all about the key, the alarm system on many threads on this forum and others which i was able to find. Most suggesting the reinitialization procedure, checking fuses, relay, and fuel door actuator. After numerous hours on the Internet and in the car checking fuses, looking at connections under the pillars, trying different reinitialization procedures i ended up with a few issues, the fuel door actuator was faulty, bought a used one for $7-$8 online. Replaced it now it works. Still same problem, key won't open/close. Everything else seems to be working as it should. Solution in my case was: Defective key! I did not buy a new key, i ended up opening my old key and i checked with the multimeter for continuity on the buttons and non of them seemed to respond, so i ended up taking and old computer case and using its reset button x 2 (2 buttons). I soldered the buttons to the remote and now it works! I haven't figured a better solution yet, i have to find where i can buy 3 new buttons which would be small enough to fit inside the casing. But so far it works which is what i needed to figure out. |
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