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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-01-2010, 05:03 PM
jeremy339 jeremy339 is offline
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Valve Cover gasket torque

Hello,

Does anyone know what the torque is on a valve cover gasket for a 2001 BMW E39?
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  #2  
Old 02-01-2010, 05:41 PM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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6 ft lbs or 8 Nm (reference Beisansystems.com)
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2010, 05:43 PM
mrpumpk1n mrpumpk1n is offline
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if after you torque it down and take it for a spin, its seeping a bit, is it okay to torque it down a bit more? to lets say 10N or 12N?
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  #4  
Old 02-01-2010, 05:54 PM
chevelle01969 chevelle01969 is offline
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When you tighten the bolts down you will feel them stop. Just dont force them past that point.
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  #5  
Old 02-01-2010, 05:54 PM
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xpcgamer xpcgamer is offline
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I think you run a chance of snapping the studs or bolts. Are they 8 or 10mm if so they can't take too much torque.
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  #6  
Old 02-02-2010, 02:02 AM
jeremy339 jeremy339 is offline
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Thank you all very much. I'm will go with 6 ft lbs according to besian systems.
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  #7  
Old 03-29-2010, 09:12 AM
E39Convert E39Convert is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpcgamer View Post
I think you run a chance of snapping the studs or bolts. Are they 8 or 10mm if so they can't take too much torque.
Yep you're exactly right! I snapped one of my studs at 10 ft-lbs. Any ideas on how to get it out?
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  #8  
Old 03-29-2010, 10:49 AM
kmcguinn kmcguinn is offline
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From personal experience - Do NOT over-torque. The bolt will snap. Did it to one last weekend. Fortunately the bolt snapped above the nut. I just turned it out with a 10mm socket and replaced it with a new bolt/stud. Got it from a local BMW dealer for $3.70.

IMHO - if it's still leaking you should take it off and make sure the gasket is seating correctly. Also, did you religously clean the gasket surface and did you put rtv at the correct spots?

Regards...
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Old 03-29-2010, 11:19 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Originally Posted by E39Convert View Post
Yep you're exactly right! I snapped one of my studs at 10 ft-lbs. Any ideas on how to get it out?
1. Use a piece of plastic and masking tape and cover the engine area that you will work on.
You don't want metal particles in the engine!

2. Start with the smallest drill bit and drill a pilot hole. Make sure you drill in the center of the stud.
Vacuum metal particles as you go along.
Drill to next size up etc.
Take care NOT to damage the hole's threads.

By the time you get close to threads area, the broken stud will come out like coiled metal:

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  #10  
Old 03-16-2012, 03:24 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmcguinn View Post
From personal experience - Do NOT over-torque. The bolt will snap. Did it to one last weekend. Fortunately the bolt snapped above the nut. I just turned it out with a 10mm socket and replaced it with a new bolt/stud. Got it from a local BMW dealer for $3.70.

IMHO - if it's still leaking you should take it off and make sure the gasket is seating correctly. Also, did you religously clean the gasket surface and did you put rtv at the correct spots?

Regards...
I'm doing my vcg tomorrow. What are the "correct spots?" I didn't realize it needed anything more than the gasket.
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  #11  
Old 03-16-2012, 04:17 PM
George16 George16 is offline
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It needs RTV sealant on the VANOS half moon area. Beisansystems vanos procedure has a picture for this along with the Bentley manual. Use a torque wrench. It helps prevent snapped bolts/studs. So fan there are no leaks on mine.
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2012, 07:48 PM
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gary@germanautosolutions gary@germanautosolutions is offline
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Quote:
It needs RTV sealant on the VANOS half moon area
Good advise, if you haven't already purchased some I highly recommend Permatex Ultra Grey. I've tried every variant of RTV automotive sealant over the years and I think the Ultra Grey is the best readily available product on the market for that application. Permatex should start giving me a commission.

Clean the area that you are going to apply sealant to with solvent first, aerosol brake cleaner works great.


Gary
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  #13  
Old 03-16-2012, 07:52 PM
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Just to hammer home the torque issue..... The bolts will only preload the gasket a certain amount due to their design. If there is a leak it cannot be resolved by tightening the bolts any tighter. They will clamp the gasket the same amount from 6ft lbs to broken.

Gary
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  #14  
Old 03-17-2012, 03:51 AM
Quick99Si Quick99Si is offline
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Hondabond is great for this type of application, but I used Reinzosil since I had some in the garage.

The torque of the the VC fasteners isn't as important as the torque sequence IMO. Make sure to follow the order and you should be good. I typically do finger tight, then two additional passes with a ratchet for piece of mind. If this is your first time, I'd put that 3/8" ratchet away and use a 1/4" to make sure you don't snap any studs. I've had no leaks on an M62, M54, two LS1's, and a slew of DOHC VTEC engines.
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  #15  
Old 03-17-2012, 04:06 AM
George16 George16 is offline
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Start torquing the middle bolts first then work it towards both ends on a crisscross pattern. I amd a stickler for proper torque and torquing procedures. Nothing pisses me off when one of my guys doesn't used a torque wrench when working on our turbine engines. I used Permatex high-temp, sensor safe RTV since i have a few tubes I got from the ship. We also used these stuff on our turbine engines and works really well.
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