Fan Clutch

Has anyone ever replace their fan clutch? Also how hard is it to replace?

I think it is fairly easy you just should get the tool to get the fan off...

www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986

yes, just 3 screws that hold the fan clutch on to the plastic fan, taking out of the car is hard make sure you have the water pump pulley holder tool

I think that by now just about every member with over 100 posts here has had to replace the fan clutch! Some have needed special tools, but I was able to get mine off with a VERY slender, wide-opening adjustable wrench and used a screwdriver as a holding tool for the water pulley (sorta).

Save yourself the potential of a ton of aggrevation and get this either homemade or BMW tool which is designed to allow you to hold the fan from spinning in order to loosen the fan nut (reverse thread). It is tight quarters in there and this simple tool is worth it's weight in gold.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...623&highlight=

we don't need no stinking tools... slim adjustable wrench and a long screwdriver to wedge into the gap between the pully bolts to keep it from spinning. replace you fan too, its bound to not be nearly as flexible as it should be. Cheap insurance too.

Originally Posted by lennyd

we don't need no stinking tools... slim adjustable wrench and a long screwdriver to wedge into the gap between the pully bolts to keep it from spinning. replace you fan too, its bound to not be nearly as flexible as it should be. Cheap insurance too.

1+++

Sometimes ... the reverse theaded nut of the fan clutch is really stuck on there.

Your need leverage as I did ... aluminum jack handles on BMW specific wrenches ...

Certainly works either way: screwdriver or tool. Just a preference, that's all.

Jason, that is hilarious. How the h** did you get those big jack handles to reach the tools with the fan in there. Amazing.... You must have taken the fan off the clutch while in the car.

jase007 your fan shroud looks like mine after trying to get the fan clutch bolt off, hardest job ever

Originally Posted by Bell528i

Has anyone ever replace their fan clutch? Also how hard is it to replace?

If you are not far from Jackson, then I will show you how to do it.

Originally Posted by shalyndavis23

jase007 your fan shroud looks like mine after trying to get the fan clutch bolt off, hardest job ever

Probably should consider removing the fan shroud first....

I replaced mine because it made my fan seize and blow, lol.

Just buy from ebay the fan clutch tool kit, should be $40 shipped max, that takes a few min to take off and then screw on the new one. Done.

LOL

My fan shroud was heat dried / cracked already by previous owner ... I replaced with new from getbmwparts.com for ~$50. They are a safety item as well ...

At 7 years old ... 150,xxx miles .... you could grab the edge of the shroud nearest the engine and "crack" off pieces. (pic was back in '07-ish)

I got my wrenches a few years back from baum or zdmak online sales. They make the job easy and I lend them out often to fellow local BMW owners.

I love my BMWs but ... to much plastic in the engine bay.

Found this thread searching for a link for a newbie and figured I'd cross reference to this toolmaking thread for one-stop shopping.

How to make your own BMW special cooling system & drive belt counterhold tools

Update:

I see my photo is making it's rounds in the Internetz ... lol

I've had the clutch/fan off a few times since this repair ... gentle nudge is all it takes to loosen it.

Highly recommend Lubro-moly LM-508. Use it in critical applications on street and track cars. Otherwise use the silver stuff ('65 f - 1600f).

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p.../usa_2012.html



... as a good coper based antiseize.

Anti-seize Info:

Copper antiseize (C5-a) copper and graphite in high quality grease. Protects metal from corrosion, galling and seizing at temps to 1800°F. Zinc antiseize: Protects aluminum and ferrous surfaces from seizure and corrosion up to 700°F. Silver antiseize: Heavy-duty, temperature-resistant, petroleum-based lubricant compound fortified with graphite and metallic flake. Inert, will not evaporate or harden in extreme cold or heat up to 1600°F. Nickel antiseize: Copper-free. Recommended for stainless steel and other metal fittings. For preventing corrosion, seizing and galling in harsh chemical environments and temperatures to 2400°F. Zinc works well, and it mentions its use for aluminum, but the copper free nickel is a good choice too. Used on lug nuts, brake caliper bolts, spark plugs various front of engine bolts (except for water pump, which will use low-strength anti-seize). Not all antisieze is compatible with O2 sensors. If it has Nickel, it can trash the O2. Call Bosch 800 # for advice. Optimoly HT - Copper Antisieze, Optimoly TA - Silver Antisieze, Molykote U - Dry Graphite Molybdenum.

Originally Posted by cn90

1+++

I never figured out where to wedge that screwdriver. And God knows I tried.

I need a close-up photo of this thing to understand. I don't see where it goes, even on my 50" plasma monitor.

Embarrassing. I know.

mw