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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-07-2014, 03:31 PM
rixter88 rixter88 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 540i
Clank/rattle when accelerating

2000 540i with about 110k on the odometer. Driving to work today I started hearing this hum/groan while cruising in 6th gear. It seems to be coming from underneath the car, dead center. I could only hear it when accelerating and it seemed to go away when I took my foot off the gas. It wasn't that bad leaving the office but by the time I got home, driving at lower speeds I realized it was very noticeable, especially when I put the windows down. Moving through the gears, it seemed very speed dependent, almost like a baseball card in bicycle spokes. With the windows down it was so loud that it started to worry me and I babied it home.

When I parked, I peeked under the car to see if there was anything hitting the ground, and checked the wheels for obstructions. Nothing stood out. I searched the forums and saw some threads about the heat shield and some loose brackets. I'll probably get it up on ramps tomorrow and take a look underneath, and then based on what I'm able to see/do from there might take it to my indy.

I took a video while driving my car from a stop to record the sound. It's just a quick run through first and second gear before coming to a stop again.



Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 10-07-2014, 03:57 PM
rixter88 rixter88 is offline
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I should also note that when I clutch in or shift to neutral the sound goes away, and revving at a standstill does not cause it.
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  #3  
Old 10-07-2014, 05:08 PM
pred pred is offline
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Drive shaft center bearing whooped?
Go under can and see if you can move drive shaft sideways where it goes thru the center support.
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  #4  
Old 10-07-2014, 05:43 PM
aggieshan aggieshan is offline
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Mein Auto: 540i M sport
Also check your engine mount. During acceleration, engine shifts a bit if mounts are bad.
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  #5  
Old 10-07-2014, 10:24 PM
edjack edjack is online now
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Yep, sure sounds like the driveshaft is banging against something.
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  #6  
Old 10-07-2014, 10:43 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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Get the car up on a lift and check out the drive shaft joints, especially the center support bearing.
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  #7  
Old 10-08-2014, 04:28 AM
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AnotherGeezer AnotherGeezer is offline
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Giubo?
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  #8  
Old 10-09-2014, 01:43 PM
rixter88 rixter88 is offline
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I bit the bullet and dropped it off at the shop yesterday. I got a call from them just a minute ago saying it needs a new driveshaft... quoted me at $950-$1000 for used or $1300-$1400 new. I didn't get to talk to the tech so I couldn't really pick his brain about the diagnosis. Does this sound right? I wasn't expecting it to be the actual driveshaft. As for the estimate I was expecting it to be high but I don't have much of a frame of reference. They are a reputable shop in my area so I'm thinking I'll call back to try to get a bit more information about the parts that will actually be replaced since I assume replacing the driveshaft would include the giubo/u-joint/center carrier bearing.
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  #9  
Old 10-09-2014, 01:56 PM
MKJS MKJS is online now
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I'm no tech, that's for sure, but its a bit hard to think it needs a complete new shaft. Would think the center bearing and/or u-joints is more likely. I'd be looking at a drive shaft shop or indi, or buying one used and put it in yourself.

Perhaps you could ask to come buy and see it up on the lift for yourself. Get them to point out where the fault is. That will probably give you the info you need to make an informed decision. Keeping in mind I'm betting they would like to sell/give you the shaft.

doc
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Last edited by MKJS; 10-09-2014 at 01:58 PM.
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  #10  
Old 10-09-2014, 07:02 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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It may well need a new (or rebuilt) driveshaft, and the price isn't out of line, but I'd make a point of visiting the shop and having the tech show me why it's necessary before I gave the shop the okay to go ahead.

There may be damaged splines, or a U-joint might be shot, and you'd probably want to replace the Giubo as well, as long the driveshaft is already out, but get a detailed explanation for whatever they do.
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  #11  
Old 10-17-2014, 09:12 AM
rixter88 rixter88 is offline
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Just as a follow up, I went ahead with the repair on Friday and got the car back the following Tuesday. They showed me the driveshaft when I went to pick it up, bad CV joint at the rear, looked like it was coming apart.
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  #12  
Old 10-17-2014, 11:10 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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Always good to hear when a shop does well, and their estimated repair cost sounded in line. When I bought my car, I went through the receipts from the previous owner and found one for a drive shaft replacement at a cost of $1,100.
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  #13  
Old 10-17-2014, 11:55 AM
MKJS MKJS is online now
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bpbdmac, please educate me. What is it about bmw drive shafts that would necessitate a complete drive shaft replacement because of a bad U joint.

Thanks in advance,
doc
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Last edited by MKJS; 10-17-2014 at 12:03 PM.
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  #14  
Old 10-17-2014, 12:19 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKJS View Post
bpbdmac, please educate me. What is it about bmw drive shafts that would necessitate a complete drive shaft replacement because of a bad U joint.
This link will give you a decent discussion of the pro's and con's of total replacement vs. repair of the driveshaft:

Replace My Drive Shaft Or Replace Worn Parts?

In a nutshell, when the CV joint starts to fail, it damages the center bearing as well, which requires removal of the entire shaft. To do that, you have to take out the exhaust, which as one of the posts said, "is a PITA." Then you also have to consider whether you want to replace the Giubo (flex disc). Most of the repair cost is the labor involved in removing and replacing the CV joint and then drive shaft as well.

I don't know what a new CV joint costs, but I doubt it's cheap.
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  #15  
Old 10-17-2014, 06:48 PM
damisco damisco is offline
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Damn too much
Lemfoerder OEM driveshaft flex joint ( Guibo) costs $87, driveshaft support costs $67 and the bushing cost $12 all together $166 and find a good Indy to do the job do not buy used one no exception and make sure you change all 3 together I did on my ex e46 the Indy charged me $260 for the labor I bought the parts it was around .$380 parts and labor for my ex e46 but haven't done on my 540i yet


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  #16  
Old 10-17-2014, 06:59 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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Don't forget the CV joint , which costs $170 or so for the part, plus whatever additional labor is needed to install it.
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