Enhanced Premium Sound/Logic7 Plug 'n Play Trunk Subwoofer Harness

Pm sent...

Hi Technic,
I have a 2006 330i with Logic 7. Can you please pm me a quote for a sub harness? I will be paying with paypal. Thx

Originally Posted by Technic

Pm sent...

Hi Technic,
I have a 2002 745Li with logic 7 and need you to send me an invoice for a sub harness. Paypal is my user name at yahoo

Received my harness yesterday! Thumbs up for fast shipping! Hopefully be installed by the weekend.

Interested in a harness, I am in NJ. It is for a 330i with Logic 7 (e90).

Thanks
Roman

Sorry for double post, but please send me email to rmerkushen@comcast.net

Originally Posted by rmerkushen

Interested in a harness, I am in NJ. It is for a 330i with Logic 7 (e90).

Thanks
Roman

Hi Roman... I will have more harnesses by next week. I will contact you by then.

Originally Posted by Technic

Improved harness is now available:



- add a trunk sub and/or power the underseat woofers with a separate amp, no need to cut OEM wires or harness itself
- quick underseat woofers connectors with 12AWG wires labeled for easy connection to your aftermarket amp outputs

Price the same, $85 shipped... :thumbsup:

Technic, I'm confused. There appears to be an earlier version and an improved version of your harness. Please confirm my understanding of the connectors on the improved harness:
pink wire goes to the external amplifier for remote turn-on.
Blue RCA plugs are left and right subwoofer signal inputs from the stock amp to the external amp.
New white modular connectors are to be connected to the speaker outputs from the external amp???? This allows the stock subs (or replacement SWS-8 subs) to be driven using the stock speaker wires??? Do I understand this correctly?

Also PM me for ordering when ready!

Originally Posted by Jack Rabbit

Technic, I'm confused. There appears to be an earlier version and an improved version of your harness. Please confirm my understanding of the connectors on the improved harness:
pink wire goes to the external amplifier for remote turn-on.
Blue RCA plugs are left and right subwoofer signal inputs from the stock amp to the external amp.
New white modular connectors are to be connected to the speaker outputs from the external amp???? This allows the stock subs (or replacement SWS-8 subs) to be driven using the stock speaker wires??? Do I understand this correctly?

Also PM me for ordering when ready!

Short story short: the improved harness shown in the photo above is the last and only version of the harness that is available right now.

The modular connectors shown are to interface with the underseat woofers OEM wires. Either the Logic7 OEM amp powers them directly (when the harness connectors are plugged into each other) or an aftermarket amp will power the underseat woofers (when the harness connectors are unplugged and the included pigtail is used with the aftermarket amp outputs. The pigtail connector is then plugged into the harness).

The line output converter (LOC) in the harness provide the line level inputs to the aftermarket amp regardless if the install is for a trunk sub, OEM woofer amplification, replacement underseat woofers or a combination of both options (sub and underseat woofer upgrades).

Perfect explanation. Thanks! I'm looking forward to receiving the harness. Everything is coming today as you recommended...
SWS-8Xi to replace the OEM subs and Rockford-Fosgate P300-2 stereo amp.

Any suggestions on where/how to mount the amp? I have the E90 standard trunk, no pass-through, no fold-down seats.
Thanks.

Have a question for those who've installed this on their 7series (04 logic) here's a pic, am I plugging it into the wrong connector? They don't seem to match up to plug in...

Originally Posted by Jack Rabbit

Perfect explanation. Thanks! I'm looking forward to receiving the harness. Everything is coming today as you recommended...
SWS-8Xi to replace the OEM subs and Rockford-Fosgate P300-2 stereo amp.

Any suggestions on where/how to mount the amp? I have the E90 standard trunk, no pass-through, no fold-down seats.
Thanks.

Bump ....

bump. and pm sent

Any good reason why mounting the amp upside down directly underneath the trunk deck with strng sheet metal screws or toggle bolts would be in advisable?

Originally Posted by Jack Rabbit

Any good reason why mounting the amp upside down directly underneath the trunk deck with strng sheet metal screws or toggle bolts would be in advisable?

All depends on how such amp heat sinks are configured. If they are configured to dissipate heat sideways then it will not matter if it is installed upside down.

Originally Posted by Jack Rabbit

Bump ....

The amp could be installed under the trunk floor cover if it is low profile and heat resistant (most Class D are).

Technic- Please send me a PM so I can order one 2004 745li Logic 7 System. Thank you.

Originally Posted by ElmCityCustoms

Technic- Please send me a PM so I can order one 2004 745li Logic 7 System. Thank you.

Make sure that your OEM amp connector does not look like this one or my harness will not work: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...&postcount=161

This is a short review of my experience with Technic's custom plug and play harness and Lc2i line out convertor setup. I bought one in December and finally got a chance to install it yesterday on my '09 E92 M3 with Enhanced Premium Sound. Everything works fantastic, highly recommended. If you are having any doubts, have no fear, this is the way to go.

The kit allows for many different types of installations (maybe even more than I am listing here), I chose to simply add an amp and sub in the trunk and leave the two 8" subs in tact under the seats. Access to the subwoofer wiring under the seats is provided in the wiring via an optional harness, so you can upgrade those subs and add an external amplifier to them with ease, without running any wires from the back to front. In addition, you can also add another external sub and amp in the trunk. For my setup, it was very helpful to temporarily disconnect the two subs under the seats by simply unplugging the 4-pin harness so that I can tune my new amplifier without having the other 2 subs on.

The one thing that took the most time was the remote turn on. The Lc2i has something called GTO, or Great Turn On, which automatically turns on the unit (and then the amplifier via the remote turn on out connector), it turns on by sensing the speaker signal. I figured I'd give it a try even though Technic said it would not work right and I would need to run a remote turn on line (the oem amp turn on wire also has a low signal so you can't use that either). The GTO works, but temporarily cuts out when there are long periods of no bass coming from the music. Then, when the bass starts in the song, there is a few second delay and the unit turns on again. So basically this does not work as Technic said. My solution is to add a relay to the amplifier turn on wire at the harness. I will just tap the fused 12 volt 1 amp line and ground wire that I ran to the Lc2i and in theory this should work just fine. I ran out of light yesterday so I will hopefully get to this last detail today.

In conclusion, I very highly recommend Technic's Plug and Play solution to anyone looking to add amps/subs to their BMW M3 with EPS.

Originally Posted by smokeyob

This is a short review of my experience with Technic's custom plug and play harness and Lc2i line out convertor setup. I bought one in December and finally got a chance to install it yesterday on my '09 E92 M3 with Enhanced Premium Sound. Everything works fantastic, highly recommended. If you are having any doubts, have no fear, this is the way to go.

The kit allows for many different types of installations (maybe even more than I am listing here), I chose to simply add an amp and sub in the trunk and leave the two 8" subs in tact under the seats. Access to the subwoofer wiring under the seats is provided in the wiring via an optional harness, so you can upgrade those subs and add an external amplifier to them with ease, without running any wires from the back to front. In addition, you can also add another external sub and amp in the trunk. For my setup, it was very helpful to temporarily disconnect the two subs under the seats by simply unplugging the 4-pin harness so that I can tune my new amplifier without having the other 2 subs on.

The one thing that took the most time was the remote turn on. The Lc2i has something called GTO, or Great Turn On, which automatically turns on the unit (and then the amplifier via the remote turn on out connector), it turns on by sensing the speaker signal. I figured I'd give it a try even though Technic said it would not work right and I would need to run a remote turn on line (the oem amp turn on wire also has a low signal so you can't use that either). The GTO works, but temporarily cuts out when there are long periods of no bass coming from the music. Then, when the bass starts in the song, there is a few second delay and the unit turns on again. So basically this does not work as Technic said. My solution is to add a relay to the amplifier turn on wire at the harness. I will just tap the fused 12 volt 1 amp line and ground wire that I ran to the Lc2i and in theory this should work just fine. I ran out of light yesterday so I will hopefully get to this last detail today.

In conclusion, I very highly recommend Technic's Plug and Play solution to anyone looking to add amps/subs to their BMW M3 with EPS.

Thanks for the review...

a) The EPS OEM amp woofer outputs are not capable to trigger reliably any current signal sensing circuit of any device: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...8&postcount=64

b) For the OEM remote turn on, take a look behind the rear passesenger seatback or passenger side C-pillar trim cover; look for a thin black wire: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=49

Either that or remove the iDrive CIC unit from the dash and tap pin 13 in the Quadralock connector in the back of the unit. That's the same thin black wire running from the CIC to the passenger side to the antenna amplifier in the roof (behind the third brake light).

Originally Posted by Technic

Thanks for the review...

a) The EPS OEM amp woofer outputs are not capable to trigger reliably any current signal sensing circuit of any device: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...8&postcount=64

b) For the OEM remote turn on, take a look behind the rear passesenger seatback or passenger side C-pillar trim cover; look for a thin black wire: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=49

Either that or remove the iDrive CIC unit from the dash and tap pin 13 in the Quadralock connector in the back of the unit. That's the same thin black wire running from the CIC to the passenger side to the antenna amplifier in the roof (behind the third brake light).

So you're saying that there is no remote-turn on wire at all on the harness that connects to the factory amp in the trunk. Even a low signal one that I could use for the relay? If not, then just curious, how does the amp turn on when you turn the radio on?

Originally Posted by smokeyob

So you're saying that there is no remote-turn on wire at all on the harness that connects to the factory amp in the trunk. Even a low signal one that I could use for the relay? If not, then just curious, how does the amp turn on when you turn the radio on?

The EPS OEM amp turns on by digital message via the MOST (fiber optics) ring.

Got my plug in the mail today. Works great in my 335i with Logic7. Thanks bro.

Originally Posted by Technic

The EPS OEM amp turns on by digital message via the MOST (fiber optics) ring.

OK, so my relay idea is no good. Thanks for confirming.

Originally Posted by Technic

Thanks for the review...

a) The EPS OEM amp woofer outputs are not capable to trigger reliably any current signal sensing circuit of any device: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...8&postcount=64

b) For the OEM remote turn on, take a look behind the rear passesenger seatback or passenger side C-pillar trim cover; look for a thin black wire: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=49

Either that or remove the iDrive CIC unit from the dash and tap pin 13 in the Quadralock connector in the back of the unit. That's the same thin black wire running from the CIC to the passenger side to the antenna amplifier in the roof (behind the third brake light).

Re: b) Thanks for the link for the REM wire behind the passenger side rear seat, worked perfectly, I wanted to stay away from running a wire from the dash so this was perfect. I tested the voltage on the thin black wire, it is +12V at all times (radio on or off, car on or off), and it looses voltage about 2 minutes after you lock the car.

For anyone installing their own system, here are a few tips to get to this wire: To get to the side seat trim leather off, you have to loosen one hex bolt that holds the plastic seat belt cover in place (this is after you have removed the passenger side trunk carpeting). Then you have to pull VERY HARD on the top of the side seat part while lifting the plastic seat belt cover. It eventually pops out, pull hard. Once removed you will see a big bundle of wires (not what you need), but in the back corner there will be about 10 wires bundled together, the thin black wire is in there (not the thick one). It was quite a pain to get tools in there, not much room to work, but I was able to manage tapping the wire with an 18-22 gauge 3m wire tap. Finally, I just ran the wire along the big bundle of wires which leads to the battery, and then ran it from there along with all my other install wires.

Amp and Sub Installed in my '09 E92 M3 with EPS (Amp mounted on back of sub box). Thinking of getting one of those custom OEM look sub boxes that mount over the battery, but this is good for now.

i wanna buy one now