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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Talk about the E83 BMW X3 in this forum!

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  #51  
Old 09-08-2012, 05:33 PM
-jay- -jay- is offline
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Location: San Diego, CA
 
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Mein Auto: 2006 X3 3.0i
Quote:
Originally Posted by IEX3 View Post
Hey X3-terrestrial, are the OE pads metalics or ceramic? I'm in a pinch and need to do the job on the cheap, and dealership wants about $400-$410 just for parts for the front. I can get part from local Autozone for less that $200, but (obviously) worried about quality. Anyway, I get so much dust that I have a hard time believing the existing pads are ceramic, but then again we bought the car used, so no telling what the previous owner did. Thanks!
I'm planning on just buying StopTech pads. They're $77.95 for fronts and $55.95 for rears. I'm also planning on getting the StopTech rotors which are $152.95 for fronts and rears for $145. You can order them from modbargains.com
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  #52  
Old 12-12-2012, 07:04 PM
chrre1 chrre1 is offline
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Mein Auto: Z-3, X-3
I replaced all 4 sets on my 2007 x3 when the brake indicator came on and tried your method of resetting the light but mine is still on. Am I going to have to replace the sensors to get the light out? Brakes work fine. If so, any good aftermarket replacements?
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  #53  
Old 12-12-2012, 08:07 PM
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AzNMpower32 AzNMpower32 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2006 325i sport
There are two sensors, you will need to replace the one(s) that was/were damaged and tripped the warning light.
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  #54  
Old 12-19-2012, 04:07 PM
brunke brunke is offline
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Mein Auto: 08 X3, 08 Harley FLSTC
Tires

Our 05 came with Pirelli Scorpions. Replaced them at 60K. Scorpions were about $1050. My buddy with a tire store sold me Pirelli P0s for about $650 and guaranteed that I would be happy. At 85 mph and getting hit with one of those instantaneous storms that sounds like your hitting a brick wall, the wheel was solid and the car performed flawlessly.
I'm sold.
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  #55  
Old 12-23-2012, 04:48 PM
X3fanatic X3fanatic is offline
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Location: Indiana
 
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Do you have a link for crown BMW?
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  #56  
Old 12-31-2012, 06:58 AM
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X3-terrestrial X3-terrestrial is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X3fanatic View Post
Do you have a link for crown BMW?
It's been a while since I don't order from them (mostly ordering from my local dealer with the BMW CCA club discount) but it seems like they don't do e-business for parts anymore. You can give them a call or check out Tischer BMW at http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...72&catalogid=0
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  #57  
Old 07-21-2013, 04:24 AM
MADBMWX3 MADBMWX3 is offline
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Old post, but I just followed your instructions and did my front brakes yesterday with no problem.
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  #58  
Old 07-21-2013, 04:33 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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Nice..

some pointers..

use a flat tip to remove the clip..
use a flat tip when the cailber is still mounted to pry back in the pistion (between old inside pad and old rotor)
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Last edited by Burning2nd; 07-21-2013 at 08:20 AM.
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  #59  
Old 07-21-2013, 07:19 AM
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X3-terrestrial X3-terrestrial is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADBMWX3 View Post
Old post, but I just followed your instructions and did my front brakes yesterday with no problem.
Glad this thread still helping, and beleive it or not, I'm at 132,000 miles and I haven't needed new brakes!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
Nice..

some pointers..
Thank you.
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1995 ///M3 Coupe, Lux, MT, Htd seats, Cosmos Black on Black.
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  #60  
Old 07-21-2013, 11:58 AM
MADBMWX3 MADBMWX3 is offline
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Yup, this DIY saved me at least $400 in labor....and I had lots of fun..
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  #61  
Old 07-21-2013, 06:30 PM
rmerkushen rmerkushen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X3-terrestrial View Post
Compress caliper piston, to accomodate new thicker pads


Compressed piston:
Great job writing this up!! One small tip, while compressing your calipers use your old pad to evenly distribute force while pushing the caliper piston in... It can seize!!
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  #62  
Old 07-21-2013, 06:40 PM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmerkushen View Post
Great job writing this up!! One small tip, while compressing your calipers use your old pad to evenly distribute force while pushing the caliper piston in... It can seize!!
+1

I think the British term is a cocked piston.
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  #63  
Old 07-22-2013, 08:03 AM
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X3 Skier X3 Skier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X3-terrestrial View Post
Glad this thread still helping, and beleive it or not, I'm at 132,000 miles and I haven't needed new brakes!


Thank you.
Did the rears at around 85K and the fronts are still good at 97K.

Cheers
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  #64  
Old 07-22-2013, 05:00 PM
rmerkushen rmerkushen is offline
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Having gone through brake job, I strongly recommend using bmw parts only... Went through 2 sets of rotors from eBay, both vibrated, finally bit the bullet and paid for oem rotors.. No vibration anymore.
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  #65  
Old 07-22-2013, 05:01 PM
MADBMWX3 MADBMWX3 is offline
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Yup, I went with OEM rotors and pads...no issues here.
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  #66  
Old 08-07-2013, 02:52 PM
jlex jlex is offline
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Didn't read the second page; maybe it was covered...
Get a can of brakekleen & spray those rotors down to remove the oil before mounting them. Oil & fresh pads don't mix.
I always use a very fine sandpaper on the pads before installation... breaks the glaze formed during manufacture & helps keep them from squealing.
Did all 4 rotors and pads on the wife's car this past weekend AND bled the system replacing the fluid with a fresh litre of brake fluid.
The fluid attracts water, & they recommend a flush every 2-3 years. The stuff I got out of her car after 7 years wasn't pretty. Wouldn't have been much longer before the calipers would try to seize due to internal rust.
If you don't know how to bleed brakes when you do a brake job, learn. I'll bet BMW rotors are pricey...
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  #67  
Old 08-07-2013, 04:31 PM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
Under the lift arms
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Mein Auto: E39 540, E36 328is, E83x3
never bought OEM rotors...
never had issues..
have done more brake jobs then you have fingers and toes

Dont fool your self in to thinking that there is some special quality that comes with oem,Your paying for the name... and the coffee machine and the loaner car

if this was a conversation about main bearings or rod bearings... then id be singing a different tune

you spay the rotors right b4 you put the wheel on (last step)
never sand your pads..
very true brake fluid attract water

yes yes, learn to bleed properly...

Im outa here
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  #68  
Old 06-30-2014, 10:06 AM
abscate abscate is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW VOLVO VW
I just did front brakes on my 2006 X3 E83, couple of points

1 First - hold car up with jackstands of course. Block, jack, stand. Put the jack back under the car as a safety.

2 The caliper pin were 7mm hex socket bolts, and you have to pop off the plastic cover before you can get the tool in.

3 I slacked the bleeder (9mm hex) and pushed about 500 mL of new brake fluid through each caliper to flush and bleed.

4 Remove the caliper pins fully, clean, and grease with high temp grease so they slide nicely.

5 Apply high temp grease to the contact points of the disc brake pads with the caliper so they slide nicely - especially important in areas with real winter weather

6 Th rear brake sensor on my 2006 connect to a box hidden above a small plate directly in front of the right rear wheel. Remove two 8mm hex screws, swing the box under the car, and you will see the small black box housing the connectors to the sensor and the ABS sensor.

7 If you are committed to bleeding (as you should be) you can crack the bleeder and push the piston back with finger strength. If it takes more than this, it is seizing and you will be repeating the job soon.

8 On my 2006 X3, you reset the brake light by turning the key to position 2, engine not running, and waiting about 60 seconds

9 Last brake job was at 50,000 miles 2009 - current mileage 117,000

I took 3 hours to do front, back, sensors, and fix a rear power window problem working at a leisurely pace, showing my daughter how all this stuff works. Two hours for brakes in driveway for an average mechanic is probably a good estimate.

Last edited by abscate; 06-30-2014 at 10:11 AM.
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  #69  
Old 06-30-2014, 06:18 PM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abscate View Post
4 Remove the caliper pins fully, clean, and grease with high temp grease so they slide nicely.
Lots of discussion on forums for other models regarding BMW advising against greasing the pins.

e.g. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=398500

I think the grease attracting dirt is the reason (not incompatibility with rubber parts, or risk of getting grease elsewhere) but if you use the right stuff aand don't put too much on I can't see it being a problem.

Something to reflect on before the next brake job though.

As is often the case, BMW engineers appear to have a different take on things compared to the other car makers.
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  #70  
Old 07-13-2014, 05:14 PM
abscate abscate is offline
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Not lubricating brakes in dusty dry climates might make sense, but in the land of rain, slush, ice, hail and salt in the North East I'll stick with 49 years of experiencing liberally greasing caliper slides and pins.
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