Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-11-2010, 07:45 PM
GermanRides GermanRides is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland, OR.
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: Glacier Blue 528i
Question Changing the oil line to the Vanos.

I need to change the oil line to the vanos on 2000 528i.

I see the lower bolt holding the oil line in place. How does one get
a tool of some sort in there? Does the entire top portion of the engine need to be
removed to get at that bolt?

HAs anyone done this procedure?
Reply With Quote
Ads by Google
  #2  
Old 03-11-2010, 07:50 PM
guvy16 guvy16 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Houston
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 139
Mein Auto: 2000 540
I have the same problem. I ordered a new vanos line from rmeuropean , but im waiting to get time to change it out.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-11-2010, 08:22 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,832
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Once the Air Filter Housing is OFF, it is easy.
I re-used the 2 aluminum washers.

Best is to do this DIY, once the housing is out, it is a piece of cake. You likely has leak from the Oil Housing Gasket too:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=414315
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-11-2010, 08:34 PM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
Past Sponsor
Location: NW Indiana USA
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,563
Send a message via AIM to Mark@EAC
Mein Auto: e39 5
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...01&hg=11&fg=30

Is the line itself leaking or is it leaking at the bolts? The other end of the vanos line goes to the oil filter housing. As you have seen things are tight in that area. It's a 19MM, I can tell you that much. I've never tried to change just the line but I have done several oil filter housing gaskets. Do not over torque these hollow 19mm bolts, they will break off in there and ruin your day.

you guys might consider taking the belly pan off the bottom and having a look around below the oil filter housing. Chances are if there is a significant oil leak it is the oil filter housing gasket, very common on all the I6 BMWs.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-11-2010, 08:36 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,832
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
1+

The Torque for these 19-mm Banjo Bolts: 32 Nm.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:08 PM
GermanRides GermanRides is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland, OR.
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: Glacier Blue 528i
Thank you for the link. Plenty of bolts to get the entire oil filter housing out, but ok.

I believe the oil line is leaking and I should replace the gasket on the housing since I am removing it to change the line.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-12-2010, 07:34 AM
wice.lt wice.lt is offline
Registered User
Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 71
Mein Auto: 525iT, Porsche
I concur with cn90. Once the air filter is off then you can get to it. I also re-used the aluminum crush washers and no more oil leaks...
__________________
2002 525iT
Toledo Blue
Sport
Xenon
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-12-2010, 07:41 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,832
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanRides View Post
Thank you for the link. Plenty of bolts to get the entire oil filter housing out, but ok.

I believe the oil line is leaking and I should replace the gasket on the housing since I am removing it to change the line.
Yes,

I suggest that you do the whole thing in one shot:
- Oil Housing Gasket
- Seal the 2 Freeze Plugs in the back of the housing.
- Change the oil Line to Vanos.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=414315

Budget about 3h for this job. Not hard, just pay attention to things in the DIY.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-13-2010, 09:43 AM
GermanRides GermanRides is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland, OR.
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: Glacier Blue 528i
I don't really want to pull the whole Oil Filter Housing. I replaced the thermostat and after putting everything back together, I noticed the Vanos Line was leaking. I just want to replace the Vanos Oil Line. I don't see a way to get a wrench on the bottom Oil Line bolt. I am not sure if this can be done without taking everything out? It is such a tight squeeze.

Fan/Alt/Air Filter/Vanos....etc....

Can that lower bolt be handled without all of the other dismantling?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMGP0861 (Medium).JPG
Views:	410
Size:	91.8 KB
ID:	221501  
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-13-2010, 12:10 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,832
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Poor you!

You can approach it from below. Remove the Splash Shield (Phillips screwdriver).
Give it a try from below.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-13-2010, 04:37 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,832
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
If you do't want to remove the Oil Housing, another approach is:

1. Disconnect (D/C) #1 electrical connector.
2. Move #2 out of the way.
3. D/C #3 (connector to oil pressure sensor).

This should give access to the bottom banjo bolt of the Oil Line to Vanos. Hope this helps:

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMGP0861 (Medium).JPG
Views:	4636
Size:	95.0 KB
ID:	221553  
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-14-2010, 10:29 AM
GermanRides GermanRides is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland, OR.
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: Glacier Blue 528i
cn90 thank you for your help. I was going to try method #2 and see if I can get a wrench on that Banjo. I don't think it can happen this way as the angles are tight and just plain wrong.

I just cant take all that stuff out to get at this Oil line so I must make it happen.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-14-2010, 04:05 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,832
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Why don't you replace the Oil Housing Gasket as well, then it is a piece of cake.

As I mentioned, if you follow steps #1-3 above (Simply disconnect the connectors), you should be fine. Do you have LARGE hands?
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-14-2010, 07:22 PM
GermanRides GermanRides is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland, OR.
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: Glacier Blue 528i
I do have large hands but was ale to get it done. In 2 weeks I have done the Valve Cover Gasket, Thermostat and now the Vanos Oil Line.

Thank you so much for your help.

JC
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-20-2010, 10:43 AM
nyclad's Avatar
nyclad nyclad is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Orange County, CA
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 477
Mein Auto: 2002 530i Sport
Got it done.

I just finished this job today without removing the oil filter housing. It took about 30 minutes total. Most of that time was trying to figure out how to remove the banjo bolt to the oil filter housing.

Background:
I replaced the oil filter gasket about a month ago, and realized I was still losing oil at about 1 quart every 2 weeks. With a small mirror, I noticed there was fresh oil coming out of the lower crimp fitting on the VANOS oil line. There was not much of any oil above this point.

After removing what cn90 said, I realized the alternator's upper connector (voltage regulator?) was in the way. I disconnected the battery for safety and removed the alternator's upper connector. That helps a LOT! I also removed the upper intake boot, as that annoying resonator(?) box gets in the way.

I managed to fit a 16 point 19mm wrench in there to break the friction. Once overcome, the banjo bolt is easy to unscrew. Don't drop the crush washers!


With the VANOS oil line already removed.
Picture 013


The old VANOS oil line. Notice the oil appears where the banjo fitting meets the crimp. Thats the lower portion of the oil line that connects to the oil filter housing. I should have suspected this as the banjo fitting turns 360. The banjo fitting on the new VANOS oil line doesn't move at all.
Picture 016


New line about to be put in place. Don't tighten the banjo bolts until you get both sides loosely threaded into their fittings. New oil line is clean and shiny....
Picture 017
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 03-22-2010, 09:03 AM
GermanRides GermanRides is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland, OR.
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: Glacier Blue 528i
I did drop one crush washer (Top one) and the lower one was already gone.

I am trying to figure out what size they are so I can replace them. One top and one bottom?

How important are these? What do they do?

What size are they?

Any help would be appreciated.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-22-2010, 09:43 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,832
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
The Banjo Bolt is M14 (which means the diameter is 14 mm).

Options:
1. Remove your plastic shiedl under the engine, likely down there.

2. Go to dealer and ask for these, they should have them.

3. Or autoparts store and buy aluminum washer with I.D. a tiny bit more than 14 mm.
Best is to bring one washer to compare.

These washers are important, they prevent LEAK!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 03-22-2010, 09:45 AM
GermanRides GermanRides is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland, OR.
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: Glacier Blue 528i
Thanks cn90,, how important are they to be in place? The lower one was already missing and I dropped the upper one. I did remove the shield and can not find it.

Is there supposed to be a top and bottom washer?
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 03-22-2010, 09:50 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,832
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanRides View Post
Thanks cn90,, how important are they to be in place? The lower one was already missing and I dropped the upper one. I did remove the shield and can not find it.

Is there supposed to be a top and bottom washer?
At EACH connection, there are 2 washers. So total = 4.

And YES they are important, they are under very high pressure.
Go to dealer, they are cheap washers.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 03-22-2010, 09:54 AM
GermanRides GermanRides is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland, OR.
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: Glacier Blue 528i
wow 4? ok then the PO lost 3 of them. So 1 on each side of the line? Yeek, ok here I go again to get that lower Banjo bolt out. Grrrrrrrrr

"Poor You" lol,,, yea poor meeeeeeee!!
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 03-22-2010, 10:54 AM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
Past Sponsor
Location: NW Indiana USA
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,563
Send a message via AIM to Mark@EAC
Mein Auto: e39 5
why are we guessing here guys?

get on realoem and look up the correct part you need.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...42&hg=11&fg=30

find the part number. in this case it is: 07119963200

copy/paste that number into my website or take that number to a dealership if you need the parts today.

http://www.eactuning.com/parts/produ...ls/07119963200
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 03-22-2010, 12:50 PM
GermanRides GermanRides is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland, OR.
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: Glacier Blue 528i
Hey thanks guys I have ordered 4 from www.BMAautoparts.com

Thanks for your input. Now where did I put my SMALL hands?
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 03-22-2010, 12:52 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,832
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Why didn't you go to your local BMW so you don't have to pay shipping charges?

Pull your oil housing and go the gasket too.
Once the oil housing is out, it is a piece of cake.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 03-22-2010, 12:54 PM
GermanRides GermanRides is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland, OR.
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: Glacier Blue 528i
My friend owns BMA Auto,, I don't pay shipping.

To do the housing gasket I need to Remove the fan,,, drop the Altnerator and then pull the housing correct?

Not wanting to remove all of that I want to do just the washers on the oil line just like before.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 03-22-2010, 02:27 PM
nyclad's Avatar
nyclad nyclad is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Orange County, CA
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 477
Mein Auto: 2002 530i Sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanRides View Post
I did drop one crush washer (Top one) and the lower one was already gone.

I am trying to figure out what size they are so I can replace them. One top and one bottom?

How important are these? What do they do?

What size are they?

Any help would be appreciated.

Yes, as cn90 said, there are 4 crush washers, 2 on the upper, 2 lower. One on each side of the banjo fitting.

Actually, did you check the side where the banjo fitting mates with the VANOS or oil filter housing? When I first removed the VANOS oil line, the crush washer on the VANOS head was stuck to it, and I had to use a small screwdriver to pry it off. I knew it was there though. Same thing may have happened to the side that mates with the oil filter housing.

They are very important. The crush washers "crush" into the banjo fitting and the other surface you're trying to mate it with (whether it's the banjo bolt or the oil filter housing/VANOS housing.) The crushed washer is made of a softer material such as aluminum or copper, and it "crushes" into the shape of the surfaces and forms a tight seal.

I was able to put on the crush washers and banjo bolt, and install the oil line without removing the entire oil filter housing.

Hope this helps...
Steve

Last edited by nyclad; 03-22-2010 at 02:31 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms