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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-22-2010, 08:59 PM
aioros aioros is offline
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Talking Cooling System Overhaul: my diy experience

Here's my side of the story on the feared COOLING SYSTEM OVERHAUL. If you "fear" on doing the overhaul like I did, fear no more it is really not that hard to do. paying for the parts should be the scariest part of it.

Parts that I bought:
Belts, HEPU WP, wp pulley (metal), thermostat and both hoses that connect to it, sec. aux fan sensor, fan blade, fan clutch, bleeding screws and both mechanical tensioners. Also bought 2 gal. of BMW antifreeze and 2 gal. of destilled water. I had changed the expansion tank, all 3 hoses that connect to it and the cap previously.

Tools used:
1/4" ratchet, 3/8" ratchet, phillips and flat head screw drivers.
socket sizes: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, torx T-50
wrenches: 13mm, 32mm.
A piece of 1"dia. pipe for leverage and "lok-cease 20/20" anti-seize lubricant to put on the threads and o-rings. may be something else that escapes from my mind right now.

First thing I did was to raise the car and secure it. then removed the splash guard and drained the coolant from the radiator at the drain plug. then disconnected the hoses from the electric wp and the expansion tank, that drained even more coolant. removed the fan with the dead blow hammer and 32mm wrench. removed the clips from the fan shroud and disconnected the little hose that goes from the expansion tank to the radiator. pulled out the shroud and fan. than removed both of the hoses connected to the thermostat.
besides the sensors that you need to disconnect from now on it is just bolts that you gotta remove to change out the parts. Installing it just the reverse way of the removal, i think.

notes:
I used 60/40 anti freeze/water ratio because of the heat in So. Cal. i plan to drain and fill again this weekend 'cause i only used 1 gal. of antifreeze.
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  #2  
Old 03-22-2010, 09:49 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Since a cooling system overhaul is in my future (and all our futures), here are two good cross references ...

- cn90
- pelican
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  #3  
Old 03-22-2010, 10:24 PM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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Nice - I'm dealing with the fan clutch seizing right now and couldn't get it off with just a blow hammer so I have to wait until I get the right tool from ZDMAK, hopefully tomorrow. How did you flush/bleed/fill the coolant into the system?
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  #4  
Old 03-23-2010, 08:36 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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The above Cooling Overhaul DIY is for 1999-2003.
Great Job aioros!

For those of you who need 1997-1998 528i Cooling Overhaul, here it is:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986
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  #5  
Old 03-23-2010, 08:39 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aa240sx View Post
Nice - I'm dealing with the fan clutch seizing right now and couldn't get it off with just a blow hammer so I have to wait until I get the right tool from ZDMAK, hopefully tomorrow. How did you flush/bleed/fill the coolant into the system?
1. Spray WD-40 on the backside of the Fan Clutch Nut.
This is where it mates with the WP threads.

2. FYI, when I last did my cooling overhaul in 2006, I apply a bit of anti-seize on the Fan Clutch Nut, foru (4) years later, removing it is a breeze (I needed to remove it for the Oil Filter Housing gasket DIY).
So do not forget anti-seize when re-installing it.
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  #6  
Old 03-23-2010, 09:02 AM
aioros aioros is offline
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to aa240sx:
standing in front of the car, on the bottom right corner of the radiator is the drain plug, just unscrew it and take the cap off the expansion tank to let the coolant drain. also as you take off hoses, coolant will come out.
I filled through the expansion tank. once filled, let the car idle until gets to operating temp, turn it off, let it cool for 1/2 hour then let the air bleed off from the bleeding screws. I repeated this process like 3 times.
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  #7  
Old 03-23-2010, 02:25 PM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
1. Spray WD-40 on the backside of the Fan Clutch Nut.
This is where it mates with the WP threads.

2. FYI, when I last did my cooling overhaul in 2006, I apply a bit of anti-seize on the Fan Clutch Nut, foru (4) years later, removing it is a breeze (I needed to remove it for the Oil Filter Housing gasket DIY).
So do not forget anti-seize when re-installing it.
Thanks - I think it goes without saying that if you search for cooling in this forum, CN90 is behind most of the advice.

So, I just received the tools from ZDMAK and will be heading into the garage to take care of the fan clutch. I've been reading various threads, reviewing your write-up and the beisan write up, etc. and still can't quite get a clear understanding on the fan shroud removal steps. In my case, I only need the shroud to lift a little, so I can clear the fan and fan clutch to replace the clutch. I know that you have to remove the clips for the expansion tank and hose as well as the two expanding rivets on the left and right up side of the shroud.

But...do I have to get underneath the car, remove the lower engine cover and detach two more clips that hold hoses to the shroud?

This is the only part I'm uncertain of. I've even uncovered some tips to ensure none of these apparently brittle plastic clips snap while removing them as well as using floss to assist in re-threading the fan clutch but it's this one thing that I need clarification on.

chapters 2,3,4 and so forth of the cooling overhaul saga shall continue in a couple weeks when I receive more parts from SD EuroParts and have the time to flush the coolant which sadly was dealer flushed last month per the previous owner.
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  #8  
Old 03-23-2010, 04:30 PM
aioros aioros is offline
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yes you need to remove the splash guard then crawl underneath and remove the hoses from the expansion tank, the electric wp and the clips on the shroud that hold the hoses. there are 2 hoses connected to the expansion tank: the one in the right goes to the elec. wp and the one on the left goes somewhere else on the side of the car. both of them are hold by the clips on the shroud.
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  #9  
Old 03-23-2010, 04:52 PM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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To clarify - I'm not trying to remove the shroud or even do a full or semi full cooling systems overhaul right now. Most of my parts won't come for a few more days. I just want to be able to lift the shroud maybe 3-6 inches, clear the space needed, so I can remove the busted fan/fan clutch. Truth be told if there was a way to remove the fan/fan clutch without touching the fan shroud, I would prefer that method, but I don't think that can be done.

Looks like I've got a little more work ahead of me.
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  #10  
Old 03-23-2010, 04:56 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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In my case, my fan shroud has a small crack at the TOP.
I just use a "coping saw" (the same saw carpenters use for fine wood work), cut a small area along the TOP part of the Fan Shroud, my Fan Clutch comes out easily without removing anything.

The design of BMW is that the space between fan shroud and the tstat housing is so tight that a fan clutch-fan blade combo cannot come out with the fan shroud in place.
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  #11  
Old 03-23-2010, 06:44 PM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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Done! Dealer charge - 670 Indy Charge - 305, ZDMak tool 35 bucks plus 90 for a Meyle Fan Clutch from SD Europarts - 125!

Followed DIY's from Beisan and CN90 fairly closely. I was able to do the job without getting underneath the car. The lower right side hoses can actually be reached from the top. Just loosened them from clips. This gave me just enough wiggle room to free the fan/fan clutch. Fan was fine, just unthreaded three bolts from busted fan clutch. Put old fan on new clutch fan, placed assembly back in (didn't use floss method but only took a couple tries to get clutch back on wp). tightened everything back up, started engine and no more rough idle.

On to the rest of the cooling overhaul!
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2010, 03:33 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
, I apply a bit of anti-seize on the Fan Clutch Nut, foru (4) years later, removing it is a breeze.

So do not forget anti-seize when re-installing it.
This is a GREAT TIP!!!! Simple and effective!
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2010, 04:22 AM
ARGENTA530i ARGENTA530i is offline
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Good info

Hello, i am new in this forum.
Thank you for sharing this information
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  #14  
Old 04-08-2010, 03:56 AM
repandpresent repandpresent is offline
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I'm just reading different DIYs on the cooling system to get a better understanding of things. But there is one thing that I quite don't understand. Is there a water pump and then an electrical wp? Or are they the same thing. Sorry for the newbness

I see that you switched from mechanical tensioners to the hydraulics tensioners. Was it as easy as unbolting the old tensioner and bolting up the new one?

Last edited by repandpresent; 04-08-2010 at 04:13 AM.
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  #15  
Old 04-08-2010, 05:40 AM
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mmm635 mmm635 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repandpresent View Post
I'm just reading different DIYs on the cooling system to get a better understanding of things. But there is one thing that I quite don't understand. Is there a water pump and then an electrical wp? Or are they the same thing. Sorry for the newbness

I see that you switched from mechanical tensioners to the hydraulics tensioners. Was it as easy as unbolting the old tensioner and bolting up the new one?
Yes. The electrical water pump comes into play when you are filling up and bleeding your system. This is why you will need to put the key in the accessory position while filling the empty cooling system (with heat on high) with coolant. You will hear it pump the fluid through the system and suck up the coolant as you slowly fill it up. Whatever you do, do not rush the bleeding process - very critical to avoid air pockets.

Tensioners are a simple bolt in whether they are mechanical or hydraulic. Tensioners can be replaced without removing anything from the car other than unbolting the fanclutch/fan and laying it back against the radiator. There is sufficient clearance to replace all of the tensioners this way if one so desires.
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Old 04-08-2010, 11:39 PM
repandpresent repandpresent is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmm635 View Post

Tensioners are a simple bolt in whether they are mechanical or hydraulic. Tensioners can be replaced without removing anything from the car other than unbolting the fanclutch/fan and laying it back against the radiator. There is sufficient clearance to replace all of the tensioners this way if one so desires.
Is it just a unbolt and bolt on? I only ask because there is a kit out there that allows you to change from a mechanical to a hydraulic tensioner. There can potentially be 11 missing pieces if I did a straight up swap.
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  #17  
Old 04-09-2010, 04:01 AM
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mmm635 mmm635 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repandpresent View Post
Is it just a unbolt and bolt on? I only ask because there is a kit out there that allows you to change from a mechanical to a hydraulic tensioner. There can potentially be 11 missing pieces if I did a straight up swap.
Honestly, I am not sure about a conversion from one to the other. I think Jason5driver did this conversion and not exactly sure what he had to do. Will ask him hough.
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  #18  
Old 04-09-2010, 05:49 AM
ptabaco ptabaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aioros View Post
Here's my side of the story on the feared COOLING SYSTEM OVERHAUL. If you "fear" on doing the overhaul like I did, fear no more it is really not that hard to do. paying for the parts should be the scariest part of it.

Parts that I bought:
Belts, HEPU WP, wp pulley (metal), thermostat and both hoses that connect to it, sec. aux fan sensor, fan blade, fan clutch, bleeding screws and both mechanical tensioners. Also bought 2 gal. of BMW antifreeze and 2 gal. of destilled water. I had changed the expansion tank, all 3 hoses that connect to it and the cap previously.

Tools used:
1/4" ratchet, 3/8" ratchet, phillips and flat head screw drivers.
socket sizes: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, torx T-50
wrenches: 13mm, 32mm.
A piece of 1"dia. pipe for leverage and "lok-cease 20/20" anti-seize lubricant to put on the threads and o-rings. may be something else that escapes from my mind right now.

First thing I did was to raise the car and secure it. then removed the splash guard and drained the coolant from the radiator at the drain plug. then disconnected the hoses from the electric wp and the expansion tank, that drained even more coolant. removed the fan with the dead blow hammer and 32mm wrench. removed the clips from the fan shroud and disconnected the little hose that goes from the expansion tank to the radiator. pulled out the shroud and fan. than removed both of the hoses connected to the thermostat.
besides the sensors that you need to disconnect from now on it is just bolts that you gotta remove to change out the parts. Installing it just the reverse way of the removal, i think.

notes:
I used 60/40 anti freeze/water ratio because of the heat in So. Cal. i plan to drain and fill again this weekend 'cause i only used 1 gal. of antifreeze.
Any reason you didn't replace the radiator?
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Old 04-09-2010, 07:03 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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The radiator has life-time filled fluid (j/k)....
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  #20  
Old 07-08-2010, 04:17 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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With my model year 528i, the thermostat and housing are sold as one unit. Will it still be necessary to drill a small 1/16th-inch hole in the thermostat (as CN90 advises in his DIY)? I'm assuming yes but the parts are not here yet.
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  #21  
Old 07-09-2010, 07:16 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
With my model year 528i, the thermostat and housing are sold as one unit. Will it still be necessary to drill a small 1/16th-inch hole in the thermostat (as CN90 advises in his DIY)? I'm assuming yes but the parts are not here yet.
Not really, for 1999 electrical thermostat, no need to drill it.
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  #22  
Old 02-03-2012, 10:41 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Just by way of crosslinking useful information, this M54 engine cooling system DIY (for another model) has some lovely pictures which may help others in the future:
- The Best of Bimmerfest! > Do-It-Yourself H.Q. > DIY: Water Pump, Thermostat, Hoses & Coolant Flush : X5 3.0 Auto
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Note: Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need, in seconds!
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Old 02-04-2012, 10:20 AM
teklord69 teklord69 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Just by way of crosslinking useful information, this M54 engine cooling system DIY (for another model) has some lovely pictures which may help others in the future:
- The Best of Bimmerfest! > Do-It-Yourself H.Q. > DIY: Water Pump, Thermostat, Hoses & Coolant Flush : X5 3.0 Auto

Perfect..I am doing this soon.
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  #24  
Old 09-12-2012, 06:58 AM
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Drat!

After only two years on the job, my all-new cooling system has developed a slow leak!
(watch what happens at the 12-second mark)

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Last edited by bluebee; 09-14-2012 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:31 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Drat!

After only two years on the job, my all-new cooling system has developed a slow leak!

Is that exp tank from the dealer?
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