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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #1  
Old 03-25-2010, 04:54 PM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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White smoke 745i

Guys, if you have white smoke when you are sitting in traffic

it means that its burning the oil, no its not the oil separator valve

all you have to do is to buy this 004611359007 part 32 rubber

http://www.rmeuropean.com/ZoomImage....1_VIC_CA4918F1

caps for you valves and replace them all.

remove valve covers and replace them, should not be very expensive, also you can do it yourself

NO WHITE SMOKE ANYMORE! don't throw your engines, they are still good !!!!

but i must agree that bmw is not that relialble anymore ((

i hate e65, but it looks good

Last edited by m50b25; 03-27-2010 at 05:39 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-25-2010, 04:55 PM
TechFreak TechFreak is online now
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Might be worth adding this to the DIY section with more details ....
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  #3  
Old 03-25-2010, 05:08 PM
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patshah patshah is offline
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White smoke is not burning oil.... Blue smoke is.
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  #4  
Old 03-25-2010, 05:31 PM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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Smile White smoke

Quote:
Originally Posted by patshah View Post
White smoke is not burning oil.... Blue smoke is.
At some point you are right, but not here:
I'm a mechanical engineer

the smoke is white+blue, but don't forget it depends on oil
if you are using synthetic it's gonna give a little if blue color
plus you have cats as well where a lot if oil is getting filtered

the result us white colour!
I spent a lot fixing it , was about to change engine
Now no issues with the engine
moreover the old caps don't look rubbish anymore it's all old plastic
some if them were cracked !

So please don't argue I helped a lit of people to fix this issue!
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2010, 05:39 PM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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My car has 110 miles on it it happened when it was 60!
So it's good for everyone to change them bc it kills your o2 and cats
that's why it's better to buy 100 miles 08 car instead of 50 miles 02
aging factor, and unfortunatelly BMW rubber parts are bs((
does not last long like Japanese ones.
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  #6  
Old 03-25-2010, 08:46 PM
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patshah patshah is offline
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Thanks for the write up and clarification. Good to know and I will have them changed in the near future.
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  #7  
Old 03-26-2010, 10:09 AM
teejaylentz teejaylentz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m50b25 View Post
At some point you are right, but not here:
I'm a mechanical engineer

the smoke is white+blue, but don't forget it depends on oil
if you are using synthetic it's gonna give a little if blue color
plus you have cats as well where a lot if oil is getting filtered

the result us white colour!
I spent a lot fixing it , was about to change engine
Now no issues with the engine
moreover the old caps don't look rubbish anymore it's all old plastic
some if them were cracked !

So please don't argue I helped a lit of people to fix this issue!
What's up with the sucky plastic materials they used in the engine bay anyway - vacuum hoses on mine are starting to get brittle and some of the plastic brackets just crumble if you touch them... my old old old 1991 Mercury Cougar has better plastic vacuum lines than my 2002 BMW... hah (btw the Cougar is for sale :-))
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  #8  
Old 03-26-2010, 10:42 AM
Keif Keif is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m50b25 View Post
...all you have to do is to buy this 004611359007 part 32 rubber caps for you valves and replace them all...
Which parts are these again? Having trouble looking up that part number.
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  #9  
Old 03-26-2010, 05:45 PM
mccabema mccabema is offline
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If you mean the pressure regulating valves (realoem.com part no. 11127547058), I already tried changing these out. no change Still smoke
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  #10  
Old 03-26-2010, 05:51 PM
mccabema mccabema is offline
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For what it is worth, this is something I am going to print out and send to my mechanic to have a chin stroke over and also along the lines of something Keif suggested a while back relating to the rpm's increasing once the engine warms up.

From another source-

"Found the problem. The emissions valve located on the back of passenger side of the intake manifold went bad, and the vacuum pump was failing.

The way I found this out was first the fault codes (p0491) and by doing a simple test.

First the vacuum pump is connected to the camshaft on the forward part of the engine.

The 745I idle is set to about 500rpm, as the engine idles at stops and after it was warmed up to operating temperature, the idle is set to to this rpm; however. At cold starts, and while driving the rpm's are greatly increased; thereby increasing the rpm on the camshaft and the vacuum pump; thereby increasing the vacuum pressure.

The simple test was this; first listen to the vacuum pump for strange clicking noise (which if heard occasionally); next I warmed the engine to operating temperature to get it to smoke, then I increased the engine rpm. I did this test while driving with my foot on the brake and the gas with an increase in rpm to 1000. Another symptom was I was consistently getting low brake pressure, which really drove it home. Thanks to all who provided assistance".
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Last edited by mccabema; 03-26-2010 at 05:52 PM. Reason: i before e except when its Keif's name !
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  #11  
Old 03-26-2010, 06:20 PM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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Smoke

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccabema View Post
If you mean the pressure regulating valves (realoem.com part no. 11127547058), I already tried changing these out. no change Still smoke
Of course it didn't help... Oil separator valves separate oil from air, and when it goes bad it's not that much oil comes in your cams, only in the morning you would see the smoke !!!

Your case is worse, you have to actually open your engine, valve covers and replace valve oil caps, I can send you where to buy it.

There are 4x8=32 caps per each valve!

Osv also a good idea to change if you car is more than 100 mls

fell fre to ask your questions
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2010, 06:23 PM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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Smoke

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccabema View Post
For what it is worth, this is something I am going to print out and send to my mechanic to have a chin stroke over and also along the lines of something Keif suggested a while back relating to the rpm's increasing once the engine warms up.

From another source-

"Found the problem. The emissions valve located on the back of passenger side of the intake manifold went bad, and the vacuum pump was failing.

The way I found this out was first the fault codes (p0491) and by doing a simple
First the vacuum pump is connected to the camshaft on the forward part of the engine.
, the idle is set to to this rpm; however. At cold starts, and while driving the rpm's are greatly increased; thereby increasing the rpm on the camshaft and the vacuum pump; thereby increasing the vacuum pressure.

The simple testthen I increased the engine rpm. I did this test while driving with my foot on the brake and the gas with an increase in rpm to 1000. Another symptom was I was consistently getting low brake pressure, which really drove it home. Thanks to all who provided assistance".
replace all 32 valve caps, osv is also a good idea to replace!
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  #13  
Old 03-27-2010, 02:15 AM
mccabema mccabema is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m50b25 View Post
Of course it didn't help... Oil separator valves separate oil from air, and when it goes bad it's not that much oil comes in your cams, only in the morning you would see the smoke !!!

Your case is worse, you have to actually open your engine, valve covers and replace valve oil caps, I can send you where to buy it.

There are 4x8=32 caps per each valve!

Osv also a good idea to change if you car is more than 100 mls

fell fre to ask your questions
Hi. Thanks for your response. A link to parts would be most helpful. The OSV was next in line to be replaced by my mechanic.

Just to be clear, the symptoms I have are that the car is fine at start up (although recently it has become rough starting up every so often) but once it is up to temperature and I hit traffic or stop start, i'll blow a cloud of smoke when moving off. No smoke until I stop and idle again.

Will the lambdas need replacing too do you think. I guess they've been taking quite a hammering. Maybe this is whats causing the occasional rough start up? The Engine management light comes up too with a 'drive moderately' message, but this goes off within a few seconds and the car drives just fine.
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  #14  
Old 03-27-2010, 05:29 AM
stlbmw stlbmw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechFreak View Post
Might be worth adding this to the DIY section with more details ....


+1 a DIY with pics would be good to post up for future reference.
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  #15  
Old 03-27-2010, 06:57 AM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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Smoke

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccabema View Post
Hi. Thanks for your response. A link to parts would be most helpful. The OSV was next in line to be replaced by my mechanic.

Just to be clear, the symptoms I have are that the car is fine at start up (although recently it has become rough starting up every so often) but once it is up to temperature and I hit traffic or stop start, i'll blow a cloud of smoke when moving off. No smoke until I stop and idle again.

Will the lambdas need replacing too do you think. I guess they've been taking quite a hammering. Maybe this is whats causing the occasional rough start up? The Engine management light comes up too with a 'drive moderately' message, but this goes off within a few seconds and the car drives just fine.
http://www.rmeuropean.com/ZoomImage....1_VIC_CA4918F1


exactly what I have had a year ago


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...70&hg=11&fg=25

number 8 repair seal ring !

well of course it may kill:
o2, cats, make your pistons dirty

guys I did it long time ago, so I can't post a diy for that
also it's better to do it in the shop!! Sort of serious procedure, you b
need to have experience for that.

Just remove valve covers and replace them, be careful with valve coils or springs.
Better spend 200-300$ and let your mech do it.
Also post pics here when you're done!

I'm in a bay area, sf, ca
may be someone can buy me a coffee one day lol

Last edited by m50b25; 03-27-2010 at 05:38 PM.
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  #16  
Old 03-27-2010, 11:27 PM
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gridlock249 gridlock249 is offline
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please post a DIY with pictures!!
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  #17  
Old 03-28-2010, 02:47 AM
mccabema mccabema is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m50b25 View Post
http://www.rmeuropean.com/ZoomImage....1_VIC_CA4918F1


exactly what I have had a year ago


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...70&hg=11&fg=25

number 8 repair seal ring !

well of course it may kill:
o2, cats, make your pistons dirty

guys I did it long time ago, so I can't post a diy for that
also it's better to do it in the shop!! Sort of serious procedure, you b
need to have experience for that.

Just remove valve covers and replace them, be careful with valve coils or springs.
Better spend 200-300$ and let your mech do it.
Also post pics here when you're done!

I'm in a bay area, sf, ca
may be someone can buy me a coffee one day lol
Thanks so much for your advice. I've had quite a few people mention valve stem oil seals but no one has actually come up with a part number and confirmed they had this issue before and fixed it by changing them out.

Do you happen to know if the kit on realoem (11340029751) is the complete set or just for one bank?

I'm in Ireland. Not sure rmeuropean will ship to here and haven't found an equivalent in Europe. Seems like BMW do the repair kit so might just have to go OEM.
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  #18  
Old 03-28-2010, 07:14 AM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccabema View Post
Thanks so much for your advice. I've had quite a few people mention valve stem oil seals but no one has actually come up with a part number and confirmed they had this issue before and fixed it by changing them out.

Do you happen to know if the kit on realoem (11340029751) is the complete set or just for one bank?

I'm in Ireland. Not sure rmeuropean will ship to here and haven't found an equivalent in Europe. Seems like BMW do the repair kit so might just have to go OEM.
They sell them by sets, here they sell it 37$ per set of 16
so 80$ for 2 banks

diy is the same diy like for every car, try something like m50 stem seals, same thing!
Realoem sells by sets, but 2 times more expensive!
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  #19  
Old 03-28-2010, 08:58 AM
mccabema mccabema is offline
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Thanks for that. While we are at it, know anything about creeky steering racks !! Driving me insane !!
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:44 PM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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Steering rack

Standard issue... Try to rebuild it
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  #21  
Old 04-13-2010, 04:46 PM
nraina nraina is offline
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Same Issue 02 BMW 745i

Been hanging with my mechanic for a couple of days now

Replaced the valve cover gaskets
mechatronic transmission sleeve
antifreeze over tank
transmission pane gasket
and sealed off some oil leaks
new spark plugs because oil was in them

As we started the car the white smoke came
Before all this had the BMW Warlords did a diagnostic test which said vacuum pump

Im stumped and trying to decipher the posts from you guys.
Anyways when the white smoke finally subdued, took the car back home and when i accelerated I was met with an engine failure warning and shaking by car.

Now I have no clue what the issue is...Vacuum pump??????
I guess this is the next step. Valve stem seal kit? I may have to take it back to the dealership, but when I was addressing the oil leak, the BMW guy wrote vacuum pump. No one saw the correlation. Im afraid to drive this POS.
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  #22  
Old 04-13-2010, 05:03 PM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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related to the last post:

Hey, nothing personal, but did you read what i wrote earlier???

i mean i don't care if you guys want to spend so much $$ in dealership listening those mecahincs who do not know anything except how to ripp you off )
you can replace everything in your car, but its not gonna help untill you replace your engine or stem seals kit or replace your mechanic )) choose what is cheaper and easier

your spark plugs were fuoled with oil just because oil is coming to combustion camera every time the vale moved ! I think it should be pretty clear now?

you know i'm so suprised that when i'm trying to help people, they think that i'm joking or what?

GUYS do you know what does your air pump do???

wacuum pump has nothing to do with smoke!!!! I'm sorry, but Is your mechanic ok????
the pump is not working all the time by the way, only when you start the engine, moreover i have the same problem with the air pump relay, still cannot find the issue that there is no voltage on the pump, but its only for better ventilation and emissions!!! i've been driving like that for a long time. Moreover the pump itself is very expensive!
If you prefer dealerships to ripp you off-you are very welcome!

Did anyone replaced stem seals set so far??
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  #23  
Old 04-13-2010, 05:12 PM
allaboutdaz allaboutdaz is offline
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from mmy understanding the vaccum and air pump have different pusposes. Vacuum pump creates vaccuum for the engine and the air pump just moves air into the exhuast system to heat the cat's up faster.
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  #24  
Old 04-13-2010, 05:24 PM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allaboutdaz View Post
from mmy understanding the vaccum and air pump have different pusposes. Vacuum pump creates vaccuum for the engine and the air pump just moves air into the exhuast system to heat the cat's up faster.
First of all, I was talking about air pump of course.

But are you sure that vacuum pump is electric in this engine?
May be... not sure will check, but in gasoline engine we don't need vacuum pump, only for diesels.
Unless they need more vacuum for valvetrinic function!
hey you are right they have 2 pumps per each head- those 2 big ones !!!

But!!! It still has nothing to do with the smoke!!
But In this case the vanos would not be functioning at all, which will lead to no torque
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  #25  
Old 04-13-2010, 06:13 PM
allaboutdaz allaboutdaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m50b25 View Post
First of all, I was talking about air pump of course.

But are you sure that vacuum pump is electric in this engine?
May be... not sure will check, but in gasoline engine we don't need vacuum pump, only for diesels.
Unless they need more vacuum for valvetrinic function!
hey you are right they have 2 pumps per each head- those 2 big ones !!!

But!!! It still has nothing to do with the smoke!!
But In this case the vanos would not be functioning at all, which will lead to no torque
the vacuum pump is mechanical and i dont remember saying it was electrical, and yes this engine does need a vacuum pump to create vacuum for the brake booster and other accesories that use vacuum. This is because of the way that the intake system works in this engine according to what i read about this system.
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