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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #1  
Old 04-09-2010, 02:33 PM
Call Me Daddy Call Me Daddy is offline
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DIY - Replacing window reglator - 2003 745i

I also placed this in the DIY section, but I thought I would place it here and see if anyone has anything to add.

I searched and searched and could not find anything online about how to do this. So, since I just completed mine, I figured I would jot down some thoughts that should help the next guy.

That said - I am NOT a professional car guy. This is how I DID IT, not necessarily how you should. Don't blame me if something goes wrong. This is for my drivers side, front door.

Before you start - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY - don't want to throw an airbag code. To do this, remove the jack in the back, right compartment of the trunk, and pull out the plastic piece that the jack sits on and the battery is right there.

First - search for "door removal" there are a couple of threads on how to do this. For a front door, basically it is 4 torx-head bolts and one phillips.

After getting the outer door panel off, I removed the 3 silver nuts and the retaining plate securing the side airbag to the door panel and tied it up to the inner door panel with a zip tie. Remove the plug for the window switches (small white one, front of the door) and the plug for the airbag (black one, rear of the door). You could probably disconnect the airbag and leave it attached to the door panel, but I was not familiar with the type of plug and I did not want it exploding in my face, so I went the safe route. Remove the outer door panel completely and store nearby.

The inner door comes off with 1/4 turn screws - some are white and some are gray - you will need a narrow socket or a nut driver for these. You can't remove this panel (too much wiring), so just swing it around into the drivers door opening.

Ok, now you have the door open. Since my regulator was already broken, it was easy to maneuver the window up or down. My buddy held the glass while I removed the 2 bolts and he pulled the glass up and out by tilting the front downward, removing it wide side first, and stored it safely away.

Next remove the window motor by removing the black wiring plug and the 3 torx screws securing it to the regulator.

To remove the regulator, there are 4 bolts - 2 at the top, and 2 at the bottom. Use your nut driver or socket for the top ones (they are visible through the little holes), and on the bottom one, USE A NARROW 5MM SOCKET AND TURN THE NUT COUNTER CLOCKWISE. If you are picturing it from the back side, you would think that to loosen the nut would mean to turn clockwise, but it's not. You will just strip the threads and make the rest of the process much more difficult. (ask me how I know). To remove the forward one, I had to remove the bolt for the strut that holds the door open (just one bolt, not the one on the body of the car) and move it upward for access.

Removing the regulator is easy once the bolts are out, and getting the new one in place is easy too - just wiggle it around a little bit. Attach all 4 bolts loosely and check and see if the holes to secure the window are in a spot where you can get to them. Mine we not, so I had to plug in the airbag, plug in the window switches, connect the battery, and run the motor down a little bit. A real PITA. It would be smarter to check that before you mount the window motor and it will move freely! Duhh. But Be sure and attach the motor and it's plug before installing the glass.

We had to adjust the cleats that hold the window, there were 2 possible positions on the new unit. Just unscrew the small phillips screw on each one (mine were gold) and use the other hole. I knew it wasn't right because the holes for the window bolts would not line up initially when we put the glass in.

We got the window attached and put everything back together in the reverse order.

After we got it all back together, I lowered the window down slowly by pressing the button 3-4 times (it only goes a little bit at a time) and then had to "initialize" the window. There is a thread here about it. Ignore the 17 second banter, and just hold it down around 20 seconds.

It took me about 2 hours because I could not get the lower bolts out. I finally realized I must be turning them the wrong way, and sure enough, realizing that and finding a VERY narrow 5mm socket made it a piece of cake.

If you live in So Cal and want to buy pizza and beer, I can help you with yours and it will probably take an hour start to finish.

I bought my part on e-bay (for the drivers front) for $120 shipped. Dealer wanted almost $800 for the job, so I saved myself $680!!

Good luck!
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  #2  
Old 04-09-2010, 02:38 PM
dismarine745 dismarine745 is offline
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Regulator

When I got mine fixed I had to to get it calibrated at BMW because you when would send the window up it would come back down. And did your air bag warning light come on after you took the door apart.

They calibrated it at BMW of San Diego this guy names Pedro is pretty good, he does all my work.
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  #3  
Old 04-09-2010, 03:52 PM
TechFreak TechFreak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dismarine745 View Post
When I got mine fixed I had to to get it calibrated at BMW because you when would send the window up it would come back down. And did your air bag warning light come on after you took the door apart.

They calibrated it at BMW of San Diego this guy names Pedro is pretty good, he does all my work.
That's the window Initialisation.......there's a DIY for it in the forums ....would have taken you 2 mins to do yourself.
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  #4  
Old 04-09-2010, 04:07 PM
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Did my driver window in January thanks to keif gor the official diagrams and all. Piece of cake, no problem. 30 minutes install by myself.
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  #5  
Old 04-11-2010, 09:34 PM
themanagerco88 themanagerco88 is offline
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You guys are awesome! I've been waiting for a DIY for this for some time now (Keif and Wilson if you posted one I'm sorry I didn't see it).
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  #6  
Old 04-12-2010, 08:43 AM
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Nah, keif emailed me the pdfs on it. He never officially posted it
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  #7  
Old 08-01-2010, 01:13 AM
fearor fearor is offline
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I have the same problem on my window regulator! 735i

Could someone add pictures to it or send me the pdf's you are talking about. I'm a bit scared pulling the window out and not getting it back in

I already disassembled the door following the instructions of this thread but some help would be very appreciated


I uploaded some pictures, because i'm wondering what the problem exactly is. When I push the window control button then window goes down, i can hear 'cracking' it stops tries to continue and now it is stuck in the lowest position.

Someone who can say the the problem is the regulator or the window motor. I could post pictures of the whole proces and make it an more detailed DIY of it.
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  #8  
Old 08-01-2010, 04:43 AM
TechFreak TechFreak is offline
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You can buy Window regulator either with or without the Drive Motor fitted.

If it were me i'd buy it with the drive motor just to make sure everything is good or you could be doing the job twice or even break the new regualator assembly using the old drive motor.

Items 1 ,4 & 6.

Also here's the DIY to Re-Initialise the power windows when the jobs done :

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=394423

You'll also need to Reset the Airbag light in the dash as it will flag an error when you disconnect the airbag connector on the door.........unless you can change the Regulator without disconnecting it.

You'll need a reset tool for the OBC to do this or get it reset at the Stealer's.
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  #9  
Old 08-01-2010, 04:58 AM
fearor fearor is offline
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Hy thx for the info do you know anything about those pdfs they are talking about? Because on first sight i looks a very complicated mechanism. To remove and install again...
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  #10  
Old 08-01-2010, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fearor View Post
Hy thx for the info do you know anything about those pdfs they are talking about? Because on first sight i looks a very complicated mechanism. To remove and install again...
My mate (who works for BMW) changed my passenger side for me in his driveway. Took about 30 mins including refitting door panel.

I'd say it's a 2 man job though as you need someone to hold and remove the glass while the other removes & refits the regulator to the door. (But this was just so nothing got damaged)
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  #11  
Old 08-01-2010, 04:10 PM
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its a 1 man job, did it no problem on my own
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  #12  
Old 08-01-2010, 05:10 PM
Keif Keif is online now
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Attached are some PDFs from TIS on replacing the rear window regulator. They hop all around and I think I got them all, but if anything is missing let me know.
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf E66 - Removing and installing Bowden cable for inside door opener on rear door.pdf (47.4 KB, 623 views)
File Type: pdf E66 - Removing and installing chest strip (chrome strip) on rear door.pdf (156.2 KB, 348 views)
File Type: pdf E66 - Removing and installing chrome strip for window cavity cover strip.pdf (62.1 KB, 332 views)
File Type: pdf E66 - Removing and installing complete rear power window unit.pdf (67.2 KB, 423 views)
File Type: pdf E66 - Removing and installing function carrier (with roller sun blind) on rear door.pdf (138.9 KB, 312 views)
File Type: pdf E66 - Removing and installing guide rail for roller sun blind of rear door.pdf (114.4 KB, 257 views)
File Type: pdf E66 - Removing and installing inner trim on window frame (roller sun blind).pdf (52.2 KB, 279 views)
File Type: pdf E66 - Removing and installing rear door trim panel.pdf (220.7 KB, 395 views)
File Type: pdf E66 - Removing and installing sun blind at fixed side window of rear door.pdf (125.9 KB, 351 views)
File Type: pdf E66 - Removing and installing trim on roller sun blind of rear door.pdf (51.1 KB, 297 views)
File Type: pdf E66 - Replacing rear door window glass (with roller sun blind).pdf (92.7 KB, 367 views)
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  #13  
Old 08-01-2010, 05:32 PM
Keif Keif is online now
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Front window regulator...
 
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Black 2007 Alpina B7
Tension strut bushings
 
White 2007 Alpina B7
Supercharger clutch/bearings, replaced exhaust valve/pulled head, sunroof seal, 6000K angel eyes
 
Black 2002 BMW 745Li (sold)
KW v3's, blue angel eyes, 8000K headlights & HID fogs, rebuilt alternator & mounting bracket gasket, sunroof seal, CCVs, plugs, sway bar bushings, timing & valve cover gaskets, valve stem seals, guibo joint, mechatronic sealing sleeve, trans fluid, sanded headlights...
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  #14  
Old 08-01-2010, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keif View Post
Front window regulator...
 
thanks keif, i'm actually needing to do this mod. (i say mod because i refuse to say repair) hahaha
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  #15  
Old 08-03-2010, 02:36 AM
fearor fearor is offline
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Thx!
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  #16  
Old 09-16-2010, 06:57 PM
ajcouture ajcouture is offline
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power window not initialized

One day my window started making a grinding noise and then...wait for it.....her comes the CHIME we all love to hear "POWER WINDOW NOT INITIALIZED" Then it would not go back up! We had to pull it back up and stick a pen between the glass so it does not slip down!

It's the drivers side window. The dealer wants 1k to fix a damn window (thats what they quoted without even really checking it out). I really don't have the extra $$$ right now so are you able to order this part yourself and fix it?

What could have happened and what needs to be done and ordered to fix it?
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2010, 07:11 PM
Sick50 Sick50 is offline
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It's really easy, part cost me $244 but Make sure you DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY!!!! or else you will pay $119 just to erase the airbag light.

Then there's a DIY on here on how to reprogram it
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  #18  
Old 09-16-2010, 07:16 PM
ajcouture ajcouture is offline
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how do you know what parts you need to replace?
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:11 PM
Sick50 Sick50 is offline
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When you take it off you can see what u need, if you see the cable is everywhere then its the regulator, but most likely it will be. If you hear a grinding noise and the window doesn't go up and down then its the regulator. I bought mine from the dealer and mine was for a 750li it cost me $244 with a merchant discount.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:21 PM
TechFreak TechFreak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajcouture View Post
how do you know what parts you need to replace?
The Window Regulator looks like this :



I'd just get the whole assembly including the drive motor as you'll end up having to do the job twice if the motor is knacked too...
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  #21  
Old 09-17-2010, 09:13 AM
fearor fearor is offline
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You can just order the part at any BMW dealership.
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  #22  
Old 12-29-2010, 10:07 AM
Eddy7series Eddy7series is offline
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""If you live in So Cal and want to buy pizza and beer, I can help you with yours and it will probably take an hour start to finish.""

I have a 203 bmw 745Li and my window started to make that grinding noise. I live in San Diego so if you could help me out I would appreciate it. I dont have to work until Monday so anytime is cool with me.
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  #23  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:13 AM
jessicajiw10 jessicajiw10 is offline
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Tools Needed? Please help.

I read the DIY on this. But nobody seems to mention getting the window back in, or some other issues I thought were involved. I am having the same problem and my stepfather looked at it the other day and wanted to fix it but the repair manual on the car states that there is a special BMW tool needed in order to "allign" the window when it goes in. Also, he is under the impression that there is another specialty tool needed in order to remove the door brake and to apply power to the unit while the battery is disconnected. Is all of this true? Because I noticed that nobody else here has mentioned any of that. Any help would be appreciated because I really want to get this fixed. My window is stuck in the up position because I am scared to bring it down. Thanks
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  #24  
Old 02-27-2011, 02:52 AM
TechFreak TechFreak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessicajiw10 View Post
I read the DIY on this. But nobody seems to mention getting the window back in, or some other issues I thought were involved. I am having the same problem and my stepfather looked at it the other day and wanted to fix it but the repair manual on the car states that there is a special BMW tool needed in order to "allign" the window when it goes in. Also, he is under the impression that there is another specialty tool needed in order to remove the door brake and to apply power to the unit while the battery is disconnected. Is all of this true? Because I noticed that nobody else here has mentioned any of that. Any help would be appreciated because I really want to get this fixed. My window is stuck in the up position because I am scared to bring it down. Thanks
No special tools needed and no special alignment required.

You don't even need to disconnect the battery.
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  #25  
Old 06-16-2013, 08:25 AM
Swasey745Li Swasey745Li is offline
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Thumbs up

Just replaced my window regulator after reading this thread. piece of cake. the note about removing the 2 lower bolts counter clockwise was extremely helpful. great write up! Initializing the window was even easier. why take it to a dealer when it literally takes 30 seconds.
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