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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #26  
Old 06-19-2013, 11:11 AM
Blackbeam27 Blackbeam27 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 745LI
im think mine went out too. i have a 2002 745LI and the windown is all the way down, it goes up almost half way then it goes back down. makes a weird nose as well.......can i get one on ebay for a good price? the dealership is charging me 850 for parts and labor. that's just crazy..
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  #27  
Old 06-19-2013, 11:23 AM
Swasey745Li Swasey745Li is offline
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Location: New Brunswick, NJ
 
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Mein Auto: 03 745Li
I got mine for $54 shipped on ebay. no problems, OEM quality.
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  #28  
Old 06-19-2013, 11:27 AM
Blackbeam27 Blackbeam27 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swasey745Li View Post
I got mine for $54 shipped on ebay. no problems, OEM quality.
No freaking way!

Do you have the link by any chance??? That's amazing...lol sorry that just made me a little happy bc I was thinking I was gonna pay like 800
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  #29  
Old 06-19-2013, 10:36 PM
Call Me Daddy Call Me Daddy is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 745i Blk/Blk Sport
Please do NOT use the eBay ones. I bought 2 before finally buying one from autozone with a lifetime warranty for $90 more.

Both of the eBay ones I bought lasted slighty longer than the 6 month warrant and then broke.

Autozone - $144 I think.
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  #30  
Old 06-20-2013, 02:39 AM
Swasey745Li Swasey745Li is offline
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Location: New Brunswick, NJ
 
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Mein Auto: 03 745Li
The one I bought had a BMW parts tag on it. The same as you would get from a dealer. $54 shipped. learn how to shop ebay. you sift through the bs and find the right parts. Paying more for something does not necessarily make it better.
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  #31  
Old 06-20-2013, 08:29 AM
Blackbeam27 Blackbeam27 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 745LI
Quote:
Originally Posted by Call Me Daddy View Post
Please do NOT use the eBay ones. I bought 2 before finally buying one from autozone with a lifetime warranty for $90 more.

Both of the eBay ones I bought lasted slighty longer than the 6 month warrant and then broke.

Autozone - $144 I think.
I checked auto zone, o Reilly's and advance auto party's and all of them say the same thing..vendor out of stock. I believe the brand they all carry is dorman...I found one on eBay for $78 bucks but not sure if I should buy it...
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  #32  
Old 07-10-2013, 08:21 AM
Blackbeam27 Blackbeam27 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 745LI
Updated:

Got the front driver side window regulator for $90 bucks free shipping on ebay and paid a local mechanic $40 bucks for labor and its working great! Did the Window re-initialise from the DIY I found on here..thanks guys!!

It's only been on for 2 days hopefully I don't jinx myself
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  #33  
Old 08-26-2013, 11:25 AM
delizard delizard is offline
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Location: topanga
 
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Mein Auto: 2003 bmw 745i e65
replace power window master switch?

Anyone have links or pdf about changing the 2003 bmw 745i power window master switch left front door. My master switch doesn't seem to work. Nothing on it works, mirrors, windows. Took off the door panel in hopes that it would be just a lose connection, but now I see that even this piece is a computer component with just three wires going into it. So I was going to try and replace whole switch, need a pdf or link on how to remove the switch from the dash. Or could it be something else? I see that the switch connects into another computer box within the door. could that be the problem? All other door window switches work, but drivers door controls are totally out, mirrors too... Any ideas?
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  #34  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:04 PM
dvanlare dvanlare is online now
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
 
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Mein Auto: '95 840Ci, '05 745Li
Is this what you are looking for? It just pops out.
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  #35  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:27 PM
delizard delizard is offline
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Location: topanga
 
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Mein Auto: 2003 bmw 745i e65
pdf thank you

thanks for this... BTY, where do you find these great pdf's?

Just pops out, so simple!!!
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  #36  
Old 10-14-2013, 11:11 AM
B2theR B2theR is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 760i
Quote:
Originally Posted by Call Me Daddy View Post

If you live in So Cal and want to buy pizza and beer, I can help you with yours and it will probably take an hour start to finish.

I bought my part on e-bay (for the drivers front) for $120 shipped. Dealer wanted almost $800 for the job, so I saved myself $680!!

Good luck!
Hey Daddy.... if your still interested in the Pizza and Beer, I'll be doing mine here in Lakewood.. Got all the stuff, and I'm an experienced mechanic, just hate delving into this without a "safety net" of knowledge
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  #37  
Old 01-13-2014, 07:13 PM
trward trward is offline
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Location: Hilton Head
 
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Mein Auto: 03 745i
I've got the re-initialization sequence off another thread. But when I went to do mine, it goes down about 3" and stops, another 3" and stops, ect all the way to the bottom. I get the same thing going up. How do I reset everything so I can reinitialize the window from "scratch"?
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  #38  
Old 01-14-2014, 09:25 AM
trward trward is offline
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Location: Hilton Head
 
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Mein Auto: 03 745i
Here's a few things that I learned from my regulator replacement, which is awaiting a few plastic replacement clips before I finish sewing it up.

First, the directions from Call Me Daddy (CMD) are quite good. I did not disconnect the battery but rather took it out and hung it from the inner panel with a zip tie.

Second, there's a phillips head screw on the outside edge of the outer panel, about half way up, near the door jamb. It's covered with a color matching cover that needs to be pried off to expose the phillips head. In addition, you'll have to tilt the entire upper panel outward from the bottom to disengage the metal retainer clips that run the length of the lower part of the window opening, holding the outer door panel to the door.

I removed the electrical connector to the window switches and removed the airbag from the door, but you'll also have to remove the cable that runs from the door handle to the door opening linkage. You'll see a plastic head slipped over a metal arm in the door near the latching mechanism. Pull the cable down where it is held, just under that connection, and release the cable by pulling down and away. Pull down the metal arm and slide off the plastic head.

Once inside the door panel, which I swung aside per CMD's direction, you'll see the window regulator and window. I had to plug the window controls back in and raise my window so I could get at the fasteners holding the window to the regulator (to avoid this, put your window between 1/3 and 2/3 up before starting). Once the window was out, removing the regulator was straight forward, but....... One point of extra emphasis: The lower fastener holding the window regulator nearest the door jam is a very, very tight fit. You'll have to work a standard sized 5mm socket in there. I used a low profile headed 1/4" drive and had to dig for the lowest profile socket I could find. Even still, it took some effort to get it on the fastener to get it off, and to get it off when I was finished. You might consider a 5mm wrench as a back up. Unfortunately, my set only goes to 6mm!

I could not get the window motor out while it was in the door, so I swapped it out on the bench. But there is a bracket that mounts to the a structural cross rail near the motor that needs to be loosened and removed in order for the assembly to be removed as one. The window motor swap on the bench was the easiest part of the project.

After looking over the old regulator I noticed it made a crunching sound when moving it up and down. The source of that noise was the wheel where the motor mounts. That wheel gathers and gives off the metal cable that raises and lowers the window. The crunching noise was made by the cable crossing over itself and binding. I can see where that binding would either burn out the motor, fray and sever the cable or cause the window to de-initialize. My advice to those just hearing this noise is to leave the window in the up position and replace the regulator before the problem compounds.

When you swing away the inner plastic panel to access the window regulator, you may pull out the big rubber connector protecting the wiring that comes into the door near the door jamb and protects the wiring going into the controller box, from which you disconnected the door switches. If this happens, you'll need to reattach it. It's a bit of a pain, but a bit of WD40 and pinching the rubber to get it inside the opening will see you through.

Recommended tools;

Low profile 1/4" drive ratchet
5-12MM sockets, standard length and wall thickness
Torex set in 1/4 or 3/8 drive with adapter
Panel Prying set (plastic/fiberglass)
Worklight
Regular & Phillips head screw drivers


I did this project by myself, but if you have a friend that wants to be handy, there's a couple of things they could help out with. Lapsed time on this project was less than 2 hours. I'm a cautious worker.

Now, to initialize the window! http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=394423

Last edited by trward; 01-14-2014 at 09:30 AM. Reason: added note about how high to put window before starting project
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  #39  
Old 01-18-2014, 04:46 PM
duamel duamel is offline
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Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 93
Mein Auto: 07 750Li e66
Great post guys! The initialization tip following that link was gold!

Do NOT buy the eBay $90 shipped. I bought it and it came in defective, if not worse than the one it was replacing. They exchanged it immediately, but I lost faith in the product, especially after seeing the reviews here. I will eventually replace it with an oem as suggested above whether it needs it or not.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using BimmerApp mobile app
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  #40  
Old 01-18-2014, 04:49 PM
duamel duamel is offline
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Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 93
Mein Auto: 07 750Li e66
Quote:
Originally Posted by trward View Post
I've got the re-initialization sequence off another thread. But when I went to do mine, it goes down about 3" and stops, another 3" and stops, ect all the way to the bottom. I get the same thing going up. How do I reset everything so I can reinitialize the window from "scratch"?
From TechFreak's link:

This is how to re-initialise the power windows :

1) Start the Car.
2) Roll down the window all the way to the bottom on the "defective" window using that windows own button not the driver's one (the window wants to stop every xx inches, keep making it go down all the way)(all the way down)
3) Release the window switch
4) Push and hold down the switch for EXACTLY 17 seconds (17 SECONDS IS CRITICAL) (15-25 seconds)
5) After 17 seconds immediatly pull and HOLD up the switch to roll the window up. (Emphasis on immediately, then leave the bitton held up to do #6, do not release)
6) While still holding up the button, the window should travel all the way up to the top, then travel all the way down again , and finally all the way up once more.

After step 6 the window was functioning normally again.

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  #41  
Old 01-19-2014, 03:12 AM
trward trward is offline
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Location: Hilton Head
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 16
Mein Auto: 03 745i
Window is initialized and working fine. The regulator I put in is the ebay 90$ shipped version, and if it fails I'll replace. But right now it works just fine. I have to say that I put them side by side while moving the motor over. I couldn't find a difference in the heft of the material or the way it was put together. There's got to be a difference between a $90 after market and a $300 OEM beyond the cost, but I couldn't see it.
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  #42  
Old 01-19-2014, 11:35 AM
duamel duamel is offline
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Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 93
Mein Auto: 07 750Li e66
It's funny you say that. Is it AM Auto? I'm on the second in two weeks and it just failed. Now I have to figure out how to raise my window. Two failed regulators in two weeks, can't be coincidental. I'm glad yours is good.

When we put the first one, which failed minutes after install, next to the original and could tell the spring area was angled slightly different. Unfortunately the second one was finicky from the start, would go down fine but raise with effort. Three days later, I'm in a public parking lot trying to figure out how to make it go back up. It does tge classic crunching noise amd goes all the way back down.

Is there a legit go to brand???

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  #43  
Old 01-28-2014, 10:29 AM
Monaco&Barbera Monaco&Barbera is offline
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 750Li
I have to do this now for our 750i... fun stuff thanks for the useful thread!
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  #44  
Old 01-28-2014, 10:36 AM
Kause187 Kause187 is offline
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Location: Los Angeles
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
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Mein Auto: 2004 745Li
Just got mine done the other day, bought the window regulator online on ebay for $65 and had the indy shop put it in. Window would go up half way make a noise like the teeth were broken and then go down immediately after that. Unfortunately the window tint was scratched a bit, but all in all. Window works now.
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  #45  
Old 01-30-2014, 07:58 AM
trward trward is offline
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Mein Auto: 03 745i
The AM Autoparts regulator I put in failed yesterday. Damn I hate doing my chores twice. Ok......Who out there has replaced a regulator and has at least 6 months of normal use on the replacement regulator, and still has a normally functioning window? Please share where you got the regulator, what you paid, and what the brand or manufacturer is. I need to place an order..............
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  #46  
Old 02-08-2014, 12:55 PM
trward trward is offline
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Location: Hilton Head
 
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Bought a new URO regulator and installed it today, reinitialized the window and put it away. Couldn't find the mythical $60 OEM part on ebay, and paid $139 for the URO part from OEM Bimmer Parts. I've got a two year warranty, and I'm going to keep my fingers crossed that the part makes it two years!
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  #47  
Old 02-16-2014, 08:23 PM
UDMDriver UDMDriver is offline
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Mein Auto: 2007 750Li
FWIW, I found the URO part for $86 and change at RockAuto; same 2-year warranty. If it lasts 2 years it'll be worth it.
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UDMDRIVER


2007 750Li Toledo Blue Metallic
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  #48  
Old 03-01-2014, 10:00 AM
UDMDriver UDMDriver is offline
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Location: Central Maine
 
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Update: So I replaced the window regulator with the URO one I got, which by the way looked pretty much identical to the one I took out, and it worked great - for a week. Yesterday I put the window down to get the mail out of the mailbox and when I put it back up, it started to go up and went back down. I put it back up and it went up, and I have put it down and back up a few times since then but I am once again hearing a slight (nothing like the first time) noise like the cable is catching. There didn't seem to be much in the way of adjustment possibilities when I replaced it, is it possible I missed an adjustment step that would make it work better? I'm glad I at least have a 2 year warranty on the regulator, but I don't want to have to replace it every week.

I don't know how some of you guys say it's a 30-minute job. I could certainly do it faster now that I did it the first time, but it took me several (like 7-8) hours to do it. Part of that was the learning process and part was that I was doing it in 25 degree weather but it was not the easiest thing I've ever done on a car.

Any ideas as to what to look for? One thing I thought of was that I tightened down the bolts holding the glass to the regulator cleats before I ever put it up and down and initialized it. Maybe I should have left them a little loose until I got it moving?
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  #49  
Old 03-10-2014, 01:48 PM
trward trward is offline
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Location: Hilton Head
 
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Mein Auto: 03 745i
URO Sucks, too

My URO replacement went out on me about a week after I replaced the AM Auto failure. One day it went down and I lost the initialization. When I tried to re-initialize, it wouldn't bottom or top out. When I held the switch down it would make a noise like plastic gears stripping.

Bought the next best one made by VDO and installed it over the weekend. The folks I bought it from said that they have a lot of re-failures, even the OEM's by BMW, because the old rubber looses its slickness and gets dirty, making the regulator and motor work hard. They suggested cleaning the tracks and rubber, and spraying on silicone to make it slick again. Seems to be some video's of others doing this on YouTube.

Siemens regulator was $189............................hopefully this is my last thread on this subject!

Last edited by trward; 03-11-2014 at 07:09 AM. Reason: corrected mfg of new regulator
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  #50  
Old 03-11-2014, 12:20 AM
DCCXLV-Li DCCXLV-Li is offline
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Mein Auto: 03' 745LI, 02' 530I M
Replacement Front, Driver Side Window Regulator - Power without motor Part Number: REPB462914 Manufacturer Number: REPB462914 , $94.14 from Autoparts Warehouse. I installed this one earlier today. So far so good. Re-install the regulator....

Note: Replacement is the brand name!!
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