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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 11-21-2010, 05:03 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Plugs were just replaced.
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  #27  
Old 11-22-2010, 12:37 PM
igoodman igoodman is offline
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Hi, i have just the same problem. I have on the diagnostic of DME zero errors. I have the ccv valve, both hoses and gasket replaced. The plugs also. I have the idle valve, intake manifold and the throtle valve cleaned. The air filter replaced. In the fuel I have the add for injector cleaning. Best 100 octane gasoline tank. But i have always the proble rough idle when cold engine.

to morrisroad: was say your diag? have you errors on DME?

Thanks
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  #28  
Old 11-22-2010, 03:17 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Cold and rough running when first cranked and is fine after she warms up is classic Vanos seal symptoms.
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  #29  
Old 11-22-2010, 06:04 PM
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No errors when checked. I tried checking the coils, by replacing them 1 by 1 with a new coil and it wasn't that. Not really sure from the feedback whether its vanos or not. It could be but the only way to know would be to do the vanos it appears. It could just go away automagically, but it hasn't yet.
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  #30  
Old 12-17-2010, 04:00 PM
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Order the parts from Besian and Pelican for the Vanos. Should note that its getting colder up here -15 C and the rough idle isn't as bad as some days, but not perfect.
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  #31  
Old 04-18-2011, 09:11 PM
SF540Bimmer SF540Bimmer is offline
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my 98 540 (non-vanos) is in a general repair shop where my bro works...because of cold morning multiple misfires...after a lot of different suggested solutions, including probably replacing all coil packs...the owner of the shop drives a 740 and knew right off what the issue was...he asked if I was losing a little coolant...it turns out I am losing a cup of coolant about every couple of months...he had the same issue...intake manifold gasket...at night or during times of sitting where the engine gets cold...the gasket allows a little coolant into the cylinders which causes the misfiring in the first 5-6 minutes of starting and clears up and runs like a champ!!! Simply impossible to diagnose due to internal issue. tomorrow my gaskets arrive...we'll keep you posted.

Last edited by SF540Bimmer; 04-18-2011 at 09:12 PM.
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  #32  
Old 04-19-2011, 09:09 AM
QMAX1234 QMAX1234 is offline
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This is a very good post. I experienced similar circumstances when it got cold. However, my check engine light went off and everything has been fine. My car runs smooth but it's interesting to note that the E39s seem to have this problem with change of weather. I will keep this thread as a bookmark of mine.
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  #33  
Old 04-19-2011, 12:11 PM
SF540Bimmer SF540Bimmer is offline
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when engine light would come on as well intermittently and i would just clear the misfire codes until the next time...i have been driving in this condition for awhile, but it getting worse now. It should be repaired by the end of the day. keep you posted.
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  #34  
Old 04-26-2011, 12:33 PM
llking llking is offline
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If it takes a while to start, and then runs rough after start during cold weather, i would recommend swapping out/reseat your fuel pump relay. My mechanic couldn't figure this out either until I got to the bimmer forum.
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  #35  
Old 11-12-2011, 08:00 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Did the vanos today - followed Besian procedure. Attached are some pictures of before and after the clean up of the unit. Did oil change as well. I took it for a short drive per instructions, topped it up. Let's see what happens tomorrow morning.
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  #36  
Old 11-13-2011, 06:49 AM
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Unfortunately, it does not look like doing the VANO solved the problem today. I started the car at 9 degrees C and it was missing. The VANOS solution seems to be the prevalent solution recommended for this issue, but I can now say that a rough miss when cold, which improves/seems to go away when warm, is not necessarily a VANOS issue.

Eventually, it runs smoother but with a very mild miss when warm. I was thinking of working my way up front the spark plugs again, coils, considering replacing injectors next as I am getting close to 200K km, and intake gaskets.

To recap:

1) Changed the plugs - Did not solve
2) Tried switching out the coils with a new, one by one, front back - Did not solve
3) Changed the DISA for another issue, flap was broken - Did not solve
4) Did the VANOS - Does not appear to solve (will check tomorrow again and at colder temps)
5) I have thought about, but haven't change the fuel filter after speaking with a mechanic who indicated it was a lifetime unit.
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Last edited by morrisroad; 11-13-2011 at 06:51 AM.
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  #37  
Old 11-13-2011, 09:31 AM
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you just in the beginning
the list includes about 15 items

new fuel filter
new air filter
new air boots
new / cleaned throttle body
new vacuum hoses
new Vanos seals
new CCV valve / hoses / tubes / dipstick cleaned
new plugs / plugs boots
new valve gasket
new DISA / or new DISA gasket
new/cleaned air distribution piece
new SAP / rebuild SAP
new coils ( or RECALL )
new / cleaned Injectors
new Injectors seals ( 2 for every Injector )

Rough Idle on Cold Start

Last edited by champaign777; 11-16-2011 at 02:27 PM.
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  #38  
Old 11-13-2011, 12:33 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Actually, I was listing only the majors. I have also done the following:

1) Checked for vacuum leaks
2) Cleaned the MAF, did the unplug test and used MAF Cleaner
3) Checked the air boot, common leak on elbow
4) Changed the air filter
5) Cleaned the ICV
6) Cleaned the the throttle body
7) Changed the CCV
8) Put on a new valve cover gasket
9) Checked for codes- none
10) Also replaced the emission control air pump and valve

There are probably a few other tests I can't remember now, but none of these solved the problem either.
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Last edited by morrisroad; 11-13-2011 at 06:32 PM. Reason: Added some more
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  #39  
Old 11-13-2011, 01:45 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Have you checked back behind the intake on the driverside of the car--you will need to remove the cabin air filter and duct work--to remove the duck--turn it counterclock wise--then use a small mirror and flashlight and check the hose's back there and check the vacuum caps that are on a couple of ports there as well.
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  #40  
Old 11-13-2011, 06:38 PM
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I check real OEM for the vaccum system. What would I be looking at from this picture?
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  #41  
Old 11-13-2011, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisroad View Post
What would I be looking at
More details than you've ever seen before will be in these threads ... (pictures galore ... and yes, it has that diagram and all the parts on that diagram that need checking).

- How to locate all problematic (between 1/8" & 9/32" ID) 3.5x1.8mm, 3.3x1.8mm & (between 17/64" & 9/32" ID) 7mm ID vacuum tubing (single material), vacuum hoses (multiple material), 3.3mm OD curved vacuum pipes (rigid tubes), 3.5mm & 7mm ID vacuum endcaps (closed end) & 7x3mm manifold o-rings (1) & 7.52X3.52mm and 9.2X2.8mm fuel injection o-rings (1) & gaskets (1) on the M54 engine & where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to build a $30 smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks (1)
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  #42  
Old 11-14-2011, 05:33 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Parts --6--7--9 and 4 need to be checked along with any other rubbers hose back there--One other spot I bet you may have missed--check the distribution unit that sits on top of the intake
there are rubber 0 rings that will let air past--check those as well--may as well remove the part and replace all those 0 rings as well.
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  #43  
Old 11-14-2011, 01:05 PM
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I checked 6,7,9 and 4 and they looked good. Caps looked fine, no cracks. The back piece going to throttle body (end of the straw) of #4 looked like it had some heat breakdown but there were no holes. I replaced it so I don't have to do in freezing temperatures.
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  #44  
Old 11-15-2011, 06:26 PM
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Same at 5 degrees C
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  #45  
Old 11-16-2011, 12:56 AM
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DinanBimmer DinanBimmer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Canada View Post
I'd consider a faulty or dirty Idle Control Valve (ICV). What did the old plugs look like (wet, black, ....)?
Just what I was gonna suggest and it's so easy to check.
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  #46  
Old 11-16-2011, 04:45 AM
kgorczyn kgorczyn is offline
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Following this thread - Same issue on my 2000 528i
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  #47  
Old 11-16-2011, 05:26 AM
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I talked with a tech and he suggested that it could be a dribbling injector. But before I replace the injectors, I was going to replace the fuel filter.

I have read/recv'd conflicting information about the fuel filter replacment. That is, it is a lifetime unit or alternatively a best practice is to change it every 60k miles (96,000kms). Given that I am nearly at 200km, I ordered a new filter and will replace it since, it is recommended that the fuel filter is replaced if you replace the injectors.
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  #48  
Old 11-16-2011, 05:31 AM
kgorczyn kgorczyn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisroad View Post
I talked with a tech and he suggested that it could be a dribbling injector. But before I replace the injectors, I was going to replace the fuel filter.

I have read/recv'd conflicting information about the fuel filter replacment. That is, it is a lifetime unit or alternatively a best practice is to change it every 60k miles (96,000kms). Given that I am nearly at 200km, I ordered a new filter and will replace it since, it is recommended that the fuel filter is replaced if you replace the injectors.

FWIW, I have replaced my fuel filter twice already (my car has 230k miles) - I saw no performance changes, or changes in the problem we are having, after replacing the filter. Granted, when I cut it open, it was dark/dirty each time.
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  #49  
Old 11-16-2011, 05:44 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Those hose's back behind the intake --they can look OK but when they get old and heat damaged, they let air in even though they look OK. Did you remove each cap and hose and visually inspect them?
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  #50  
Old 11-16-2011, 06:17 AM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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So you've got a fuel filter that only interferes with flow during warmup and then miraculously cures itself after engine reaches operating temperature? That's some intelligent fuel filter........and not very likely. Fuel filter problems don't disappear when the engine warms up. They occur when fuel demand is high..... like high RPM and wide open throttle, not at idle.
You've been chasing this since 4/2010. Does the car sit for long periods without driving? If you don't have any vacuum leaks, I think your mechanic is on the right track. I'd try a can or two of Techron, and run several tanks of a different brand premium fuel before I replaced fuel injectors.
With odometer in kilometers, what region are you located? Is this a US spec, OBDII compliant car?

Paul S
BMW CCA 69606


Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisroad View Post
I talked with a tech and he suggested that it could be a dribbling injector. But before I replace the injectors, I was going to replace the fuel filter.

I have read/recv'd conflicting information about the fuel filter replacment. That is, it is a lifetime unit or alternatively a best practice is to change it every 60k miles (96,000kms). Given that I am nearly at 200km, I ordered a new filter and will replace it since, it is recommended that the fuel filter is replaced if you replace the injectors.
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