Sound System Improvement Stage One

Two fer two on stickies. And a Full Assist on the Tranny!

Funny five years ago when I proposed changing out the sound system on the X3 I actually got the equivalent of hate mail via pm and called just about every name in the book.

Now its a sticky for helping others. Very Cool.

There are some excellent contributors here to...Thanks guys for making this what it is meant to be:

Helping BMW owners overcome obstacles to a better vehicle

I managed to source a new pair of Morel Dotech Ovation Crossovers (to suit Morel's 4", 5" & 6" Splits) - to replace my budged Focal Polyglass Crossovers.
The Focal Crossovers had always made my Hertz components sound VERY mid range focussed & it sounded like a loud clock radio with some vocals...
These new Morel's have totally transformed how these speakers reproduce their frequencies & I can't stop giggling with how good it sounds!
If anyone wants a slightly more complicated speaker upgrade, then a pair of Hertz EM100 midranges, ET20 Tweeters and some suitable quality crossovers will give you a fantastic 'European' sound!
With a little more tweaking of my Alpine Head Unit's EQ, I reckon I'll try entering in my local Sound Quality (SQ) car audio competitions - to see how she fares!

Originally Posted by deafwish

Try find the cable colour from the back of the head unit's plug.

*face-palm* Yeah... That would make sense, wouldn't it?

weird thing is that the colors from spaghetti coders are german abbreviated

Ok here is the diagram I used for my speaker install in my 2007, with std 8 speaker sound:

http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/svg...30.svg?m=e8385

RADRV is not the color code for wiring. On the front right for example, BL/RT is Positive and BL/BR is Negative.

BMW abbreviates the wiring colors in German as follows:

BL = Blue
BR = Brown
GE = Yellow
GN = Green
GR = Grey
RT = Red
SW = Black
WS = White
VI = Violet

Hope that helps.

But the question isn't necessarily what are the colors, but which speaker location is which?

Evlengr, Ive been following your posts and appreciate your insight. quick question will these work with an 06 x3?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TS-G1044R.html

Originally Posted by Bufalo

But the question isn't necessarily what are the colors, but which speaker location is which?

The wiring diagram tells you. Front left, front right, etc.

Originally Posted by NYG010

Evlengr, Ive been following your posts and appreciate your insight. quick question will these work with an 06 x3?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TS-G1044R.html

The depth is correct. And the magnet diameter visually looks right. I still would go with the Alpines for about $15 more a pair if you haven't already purchased the pioneers. The Boston Acoustic although not as efficient will give a warmer texture as a nice alternative.

As a caveat though, i can take ten people with the same speakers and same source material and almost all will say something different.

Do you need a walkthrough on the installation?

Originally Posted by NYG010

Evlengr, Ive been following your posts and appreciate your insight. quick question will these work with an 06 x3?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TS-G1044R.html

Those have a top mount depth of 1.75". I attempted to install a set of German Maestro CC4008's with a top mount depth of 1.71" and they didn't fit. In this car, the mounting method is bottom mount so you are losing additional clearance. In my case with the CC4008's it may have been due to the magnet diameter being too large as well, but I couldn't really see. I just know they didn't fit, and the EFS4008's, with bottom mount depth of 1.27" fit perfectly.

So you are going to be close with those. Make sure you can return them if they don't fit.

Im on a pretty tight budget but i love music and been wanting to upgrade my sound system for a while. My first question is that, if i throw in about $400 into a new HU, speakers, and a sub, will there really be THAT much of an improvement? i know its sort of an opinion question but i just want to now if its really worth it if i dont have the coin.

Originally Posted by NeedFasterX3

Im on a pretty tight budget but i love music and been wanting to upgrade my sound system for a while. My first question is that, if i throw in about $400 into a new HU, speakers, and a sub, will there really be THAT much of an improvement? i know its sort of an opinion question but i just want to now if its really worth it if i dont have the coin.

yes and no. Dont do it all at once. It may cost more, but if you spread it out over a little time it will be a better job for many reasons. You can improve the budget, time gives you the advantage of critquing your own sound instead of rushing into a project, and technology changes fast. Given the same vehicle knowing what i know now I would not change the H/U but put a sound processor in its place giving me more sound control for cheaper and keeping the original H/U and prying eyes and fingers out of my car.

Start with changing the speakers. It is akin to changing tires. It wont seem that much a difference at first, but you will notice it. then go to a sound processor and amp. I think I have a spare amp you can have. I am moving to a new house (finally)and cleaning out the cupboard again so to speak. PM me as I tend to be absent minded. Audio Control puts out a neat little line processor that looks very versatile and not too costly: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...6.html?from=20 $150.00

Marry that with speakers: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-SPS-410.html $50.00 a pair

And you are still left with $200 for a nice Sub and Amp. Yes it can be done for $400. I would stretch it to $500 for a better Amp as more clean power will give you less problems as heat and distortion kills a sound system.

Let me know what you think. I am in the middle of moving so a lot going on. If you can wait I will diagram it out for you. If not I can still help with the gear and a possible amp. i just have to remember where I put it .

Cheers,

EE

ps thanks PSUEng for kibbits. I'd rather someone get the right info, then be right. Let's all put our collabarative exp together and get NFX a good, better, best suggestion on his sound system and budget.

Originally Posted by Evlengr

ps thanks PSUEng for kibbits. I'd rather someone get the right info, then be right. Let's all put our collabarative exp together and get NFX a good, better, best suggestion on his sound system and budget.

I agree. I think this is a great thread to capture everyone's experiences with the sound system in this car and given how equipment varies, some stuff is going to work and some won't, but there isn't a wealth of info on it. So I think all you can do is get it maybe 90% and then give it a shot.

At the end of the day, the stock speakers are the weakest point of the sound system. Upgrade those to just about anything and you'll be better off.

Originally Posted by Evlengr

yes and no. Dont do it all at once. It may cost more, but if you spread it out over a little time it will be a better job for many reasons. You can improve the budget, time gives you the advantage of critquing your own sound instead of rushing into a project, and technology changes fast. Given the same vehicle knowing what i know now I would not change the H/U but put a sound processor in its place giving me more sound control for cheaper and keeping the original H/U and prying eyes and fingers out of my car.

Start with changing the speakers. It is akin to changing tires. It wont seem that much a difference at first, but you will notice it. then go to a sound processor and amp. I think I have a spare amp you can have. I am moving to a new house (finally)and cleaning out the cupboard again so to speak. PM me as I tend to be absent minded. Audio Control puts out a neat little line processor that looks very versatile and not too costly: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...6.html?from=20 $150.00

Marry that with speakers: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-SPS-410.html $50.00 a pair

And you are still left with $200 for a nice Sub and Amp. Yes it can be done for $400. I would stretch it to $500 for a better Amp as more clean power will give you less problems as heat and distortion kills a sound system.

Let me know what you think. I am in the middle of moving so a lot going on. If you can wait I will diagram it out for you. If not I can still help with the gear and a possible amp. i just have to remember where I put it .

Cheers,

EE

ps thanks PSUEng for kibbits. I'd rather someone get the right info, then be right. Let's all put our collabarative exp together and get NFX a good, better, best suggestion on his sound system and budget.

Thanks Evlengr.
I've been reading this thread for a while, and finally pulled the trigger on 2 pairs of Apline 410 at the sonicelectronix and the Audio LC6i from Crutchfield last night.
When you have a chance, can you please provide the guide of how to tap to the speaker wire to the Audio LC6i?

For anyone out there who wants to buy the Audio LC6i, this is the perfect time to do it because Crutchfield has it onsale right now for $119, use the coupon code 3A825 for $20 of $100.

Originally Posted by feniville

Thanks Evlengr.
I've been reading this thread for a while, and finally pulled the trigger on 2 pairs of Apline 410 at the sonicelectronix and the Audio LC6i from Crutchfield last night.
When you have a chance, can you please provide the guide of how to tap to the speaker wire to the Audio LC6i?

For anyone out there who wants to buy the Audio LC6i, this is the perfect time to do it because Crutchfield has it onsale right now for $119, use the coupon code 3A825 for $20 of $100.

I went a different route, changed the door speakers with Alpine 410's and bought a low profile sub/amp combo that I mounted near the battery. I didn't want to put large investment in the sound system.
I have a pretty good low end now and the door speaker change made a large difference, all for 400. and looks totally stock.
My two cents..

Originally Posted by feniville

Thanks Evlengr.
I've been reading this thread for a while, and finally pulled the trigger on 2 pairs of Apline 410 at the sonicelectronix and the Audio LC6i from Crutchfield last night.
When you have a chance, can you please provide the guide of how to tap to the speaker wire to the Audio LC6i?

For anyone out there who wants to buy the Audio LC6i, this is the perfect time to do it because Crutchfield has it onsale right now for $119, use the coupon code 3A825 for $20 of $100.

May be a couple of days before I can get to this, but should be able to by Friday.

It seems clear that replacing the door speakers will result in a substantial improvement in the X3 sound system. Has anyone also replaced the under-seat woofers with the Earthquake SWS-8Xi 2 ohm units, retaining the stock amp? Earthquake makes the 2 ohm units as a direct replacement - I'm wondering how much a difference they would make by themselves. Thanks, Robert.

Originally Posted by rwhitman

It seems clear that replacing the door speakers will result in a substantial improvement in the X3 sound system. Has anyone also replaced the under-seat woofers with the Earthquake SWS-8Xi 2 ohm units, retaining the stock amp? Earthquake makes the 2 ohm units as a direct replacement - I'm wondering how much a difference they would make by themselves. Thanks, Robert.

here is a link, I think better if you upgrade the amp.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ghlight=sws+8x

Originally Posted by rwhitman

It seems clear that replacing the door speakers will result in a substantial improvement in the X3 sound system. Has anyone also replaced the under-seat woofers with the Earthquake SWS-8Xi 2 ohm units, retaining the stock amp? Earthquake makes the 2 ohm units as a direct replacement - I'm wondering how much a difference they would make by themselves. Thanks, Robert.

You should check the car wiring first. I have basic business cd. The stock underseat in my car were 4 ohm and run in parallel with the front door speakers above approx 3khz. The parallel feed to the doors is via capacitor in the trunk documented elsewhere in this thread.. My point is that if you are running basic business cd and your current under seat are 4 ohm and you replace with 2 ohm then the load on the amp will reduce ( 4 in parallel with 2) and there migt be issues with the stock HU.

Originally Posted by x3oiler

You should check the car wiring first. I have basic business cd. The stock underseat in my car were 4 ohm and run in parallel with the front door speakers above approx 3khz. The parallel feed to the doors is via capacitor in the trunk documented elsewhere in this thread.. My point is that if you are running basic business cd and your current under seat are 4 ohm and you replace with 2 ohm then the load on the amp will reduce ( 4 in parallel with 2) and there migt be issues with the stock HU.

would this be the wiring for the unamplified system?

Correct. Business cd in Aus is dumbed down. No amps separate to hu.

Update. Can work it out here

http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/e8385/Complete_vehicle/body/Audio,_video_and_navigation/Sound_output/

Hi folks, after much delibration I have decided to keep my 2005 X3 as my year around vehicle. As a result I am want to do some mods and with the limitations ( I use that word lightly..) the stock stereo needs to go. The instructions in this post are EXCELLENT , especially from Evlengr! How about some pics of the HU?? There are pics of everything else!

Thx!
Marven

Originally Posted by marvenmassey

Hi folks, after much delibration I have decided to keep my 2005 X3 as my year around vehicle. As a result I am want to do some mods and with the limitations ( I use that word lightly..) the stock stereo needs to go. The instructions in this post are EXCELLENT , especially from Evlengr! How about some pics of the HU?? There are pics of everything else!

Thx!
Marven

Will do...I though I had posted them, but I tend to be an absent minded type. I have two installs of my own to share. The first was the Pioneer (2007), the second (2008) and the third TBD as I may go to the other side and order an S4 this November if Dinan doesnt deliver a chip for the N55 (and looks like BMW is going to short us on an actual M class X3). Sorry Scotty but I need more power.

Thanks for the kind words. I have to find some time to do the wiring layout and want to show how to construct a harness for plug and play set ups.

Evlengr, for the speaker install.... how badly do you have to knock on the airbag to damage it? I'm one of the clumsiest guys in the world and I'm freaking out about ruining the airbag in any way. also i don't want the airbag to deploy with my face at point blank

Originally Posted by murderland

Evlengr, for the speaker install.... how badly do you have to knock on the airbag to damage it? I'm one of the clumsiest guys in the world and I'm freaking out about ruining the airbag in any way. also i don't want the airbag to deploy with my face at point blank

Disconnect battery!!!!!!! I dont give a crap what they say. I disconnect the red (+). If you disconnect the ground and grab a point that is hot you become ground potential and take the hit. I don't know why some people insist on removing the ground and leaving the hot connected. Makes no sense at all. To those who disagree..grab the hot and stand in some water and then talk to me, if you can.

I did not disconnect the wire for the air bag when I pulled the door panel off. Just make sure you have "Torx" screw-drivers (or bits), a nylon type pry bar (start on the bottom inside portion of the wood overlay). There are more directions in this thread but they are most important. (And don't pierce /tear the vapor barrier).