CCV change question!!! HELP!!! NEED HELP!!!

I ran into this problem while changing the CCV valve -
the pipe that goes from the CCV to Dip Stick - has this yellow like oil base thing... almost like snot... can someone tell me if this is a bad sign...

No, it's a result of short trips and slow speeds. Get all the components changed, change oil regularly, and don't putter around town. Drive the Hell out of the car every weekend to keep it limber.

Make sure you get the insulated oil separator, a BMW upgrade for cold climates.

Hi,

Thanks for your reply. I just got this car from an older guy I work with who is in his late 60's. Can it be the resulst of him not driving hard? He got the oil change regurley. What else do you recomand doing to this car while I have it open? Also the car has 187K miles. Also what do you mean by "Get all the components changed" can you please explain?

Originally Posted by psp9218

Hi,

Thanks for your reply. I just got this car from an older guy I work with who is in his late 60's. Can it be the resulst of him not driving hard? He got the oil change regurley. What else do you recomand doing to this car while I have it open? Also the car has 187K miles. Also what do you mean by "Get all the components changed" can you please explain?

If you repair/replace the CVV, cooling system, belts & hoses, VANOS seals, LCABs, the car will be roadworthy for a long time to come. A couple of grand spent now to get things squared away will pay off in the long run.

Originally Posted by Fast Bob

If you repair/replace the CVV, cooling system, belts & hoses, VANOS seals, LCABs, the car will be roadworthy for a long time to come. A couple of grand spent now to get things squared away will pay off in the long run.

I am currently doing an overhaul of the cooling system, CCV, Belts and Hoses, and Vanos seals.. but not LCABs.. does that really need to be done or only if I feel something is wrong? how do I check the Lower Control Arm bushings have gone bad?

"all components" means the valve and all the hoses that go connected to it.

Originally Posted by aioros

"all components" means the valve and all the hoses that go connected to it.

COOL... atleast I have all that covered... thanks

To be exact, CCV blockage (and sludge formation) comes from short trips and not from slow speed.

- Short trips are generally defined as less than 7 miles b/c the engine does not fully warm up until 4-5 minutes later, and it needs another10-15 minutes to get rid of the contaminants in the oil.

- High speed is not necessarily beneficial. What good if you get out the house, drive very high speed to your work 2 miles away?

Anyway, the key word is engine oil temp when it comes to sludge. Hot oil (around 90-100C) is better than cold oil.

Originally Posted by cn90

To be exact, CCV blockage (and sludge formation) comes from short trips and not from slow speed.

- Short trips are generally defines as less than 7 miles b/c the engine does not fully warm up until 4-5 minutes later, and it needs another10-15 minutes to get rid of the contaminants in the oil.

- High speed is not necessarily beneficial. What good if you get out the house, drive very high speed to your work 2 miles away?

Anyway, the key word is engine oil temp when it comes to sludge. Hot oil (around 90-100C) is better than cold oil.

Thanks... once I get the car on the road I'll be driving it 42 miles oneway... so that should slove the problem..

You did not state the year of your car, but I wrote a DIY for my 1998 528i here:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225

Step #10 mentioned this hose:

10. Replace CCV + hoses: Straightforward business.
- Note that the CCV mates into the Intake Manifold sideway via the Rubber Grommet so push the CCV toward the engine (from driver to pass side).
- The hose from CCV to the dipstick is standard 1/2-inch I.D. Heater Hose (you can get it at any Auto Parts Store).
- When installing the new CCV, do not connect the 11151703775----Ventilation Pipe at this time.

The yellow mayo-like sludge you found is condensation of the oil vapors within the CCV system. Many folks have found it. It is exactly as the others said, a result of short driving trips that do not allow the engine to fully warm up. This is exacerbated in colder weather, where the CCV and related pipes do not warm sufficiently, allowing the oil vapors to condense on the walls of the CCV system and accumulate over time. That is why BMW insulated these components, to HOPEFULLY reduce the level of condensation. A poor fix to a poor design. Your 42 mile commute should definitely solve that problem. Your list of replacement parts will greatly improve the relaibility of your engine. If you are dissatisfied with your ride quality, consider replacing your front end (see cnn's DIY) as this totally rejuvenates ride quality.

Originally Posted by cn90

You did not state the year of your car, but I wrote a DIY for my 1998 528i here:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225

Step #10 mentioned this hose:

Thanks C90 this helps

Originally Posted by Fudman

The yellow mayo-like sludge you found is condensation of the oil vapors within the CCV system. Many folks have found it. It is exactly as the others said, a result of short driving trips that do not allow the engine to fully warm up. This is exacerbated in colder weather, where the CCV and related pipes do not warm sufficiently, allowing the oil vapors to condense on the walls of the CCV system and accumulate over time. That is why BMW insulated these components, to HOPEFULLY reduce the level of condensation. A poor fix to a poor design. Your 42 mile commute should definitely solve that problem. Your list of replacement parts will greatly improve the relaibility of your engine. If you are dissatisfied with your ride quality, consider replacing your front end (see cnn's DIY) as this totally rejuvenates ride quality.

Fudman,
I currently have a 2002 ML320 and E430 Sport Pack - so when I grabbed this car from my co-worker after he spent $3,000 with a non-BMW shop and got tired of the car and was going to donate it... so he asked me if I wanted to buy it from him for $1,000 so I grabbed it. I drove the car two/three days as is without any issues: "ride quality" but the only thing I have problem is the power steering is too stiff.. but since I am used to MB?
maybe I should go find a 528i to test drive and compare.

Have you checked your PS fluid level. These are prone to leak at a hose underneath. If it's leaking below, you can cut an inch off and reclamp it with a hose clamp. $1000 is a great deal. A nice addition to the stable!

Originally Posted by psp9218

I drove the car two/three days as is without any issues: "ride quality" but the only thing I have problem is the power steering is too stiff.. but since I am used to MB?
maybe I should go find a 528i to test drive and compare.

Maybe the ATF is not Dexron III? If it's thicker, it's "heavier" to turn.
Maybe flush the old fluid and change with new fluid. Also, check and see how that PS (ATF) fluid looks. Is it brown? is it grey (I hope not)? Should be light pink.

Clean your ICV since it's also in the area of the CCV, definitely check for sweating power steering hoses.

As an FYI, my girlfriends Toyota Tundra did this foamy/frothy stuff and so at the first oil change I switched it to Mobil 1 5w-30 from the dino oil it came with, and it stopped doing it, in spite of her short trip driving.

Originally Posted by doru

Maybe the ATF is not Dexron III? If it's thicker, it's "heavier" to turn.
Maybe flush the old fluid and change with new fluid. Also, check and see how that PS (ATF) fluid looks. Is it brown? is it grey (I hope not)? Should be light pink.

Power Steering fluid level is Good..but I don't know if it's Dexron III...
I guess I'll take care of that also while I have it opened up.. it's not Grey for sure.. it's like more of red then pink...

here is a picture of the Car...it's a 2000 528i

Guys - just posted about possible cracked head... on :
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...30#post5171430