Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #26  
Old 05-21-2010, 01:21 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCo540i View Post
What happens when you raise the RPM's say to a steady 2500 or so?
It's still intermittent!

Last edited by bluebee; 05-21-2010 at 03:39 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 05-21-2010, 08:41 AM
doru's Avatar
doru doru is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Calgary
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,457
Mein Auto: 2003 530iA
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
OK on the stethoscope.

I'm still confused which pulleys, rollers, and tensioners are in the M54 engine!

And I don't know how to tell if I have spring-loaded or hydraulic belt tensioners.

Is this guess correct yet?

A = alternator belt tensioner pulley
B = alternator belt idler pulley
C = idler roller?
D = power steering pump pulley
E = crankshaft pulley (aft)
F = AC compressor pulley
G = crankshaft pulley (fore)
H = AC belt tensioner
I = alternator pulley
Do I have spring-loaded or hydraulic belt tensioners?
(anything missing)

Hello Donna.
BMW stopped using the mechanical belt tensioner, and is using the hydraulic one.
The mechanical one is more sturdy. The hydraulic one is more prone to failure and does not last as long. AFAIK nobody carries the mechanical tensioner anymore.
If you had that one (which I doubt), you will need to change to hydraulic, and you will need a conversion kit for Drive Belt Tensioner and the hydraulic tensioner. Also, the reason I posted that link before, is because for a strange reason, oembimmerparts still had that mechanical tensioner in stock (a few weeks ago, I believe). They were the only ones.

GL
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 05-21-2010, 08:36 PM
lild's Avatar
lild lild is offline
livin the 'Fest
Location: where ever my car takes me
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,281
Mein Auto: 97' 528i, 06 ninja
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
OK on the stethoscope.

I'm still confused which pulleys, rollers, and tensioners are in the M54 engine!

And I don't know how to tell if I have spring-loaded or hydraulic belt tensioners.

Is this guess correct yet?

A = alternator belt tensioner pulley
B = alternator belt idler pulley
C = idler roller?
D = power steering pump pulley
E = crankshaft pulley (aft)
F = AC compressor pulley
G = crankshaft pulley (fore)
H = AC belt tensioner
I = alternator pulley
Do I have spring-loaded or hydraulic belt tensioners?
(anything missing)

h and b are the tensioner pulleys that keep tension, the idler pulley could also cause a noise when it gets bad, do to it haveing bearings, and the a/c pulley could also cause a noise to, becuase it has a clutch bearing, which allows it to spin freely when the a/c is off. any of they pulleys could cause the problem due to than haveing bearings. i bettin it's either the a/c, or the idler pulley. turn the a/c on and see if the noise goes away, to check the idler, you can take the belt off and see if the pulley has any back and forth play in it. also, did you find out why the ps fluid is getting low?
__________________
The more you complain, the longer God makes you live. SPHOBA #00002
:
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 05-23-2010, 02:22 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by lild View Post
turn the a/c on and see if the noise goes away
The noise does not seem to be related to the AC nor to the engine speed.

Quote:
did you find out why the ps fluid is getting low?
Actually the PS was low once (I had never checked it); then I put the wrong fluid in (Dexron II PSF which the autoparts store told me was correct); and then I suctioned it clean twice and refilled each time with Dexron VI ATF.

Weirdly, the cold-start squeal seems abated only by the replacement of the ATF in the reservoir ... so, while I cant' imagine the mechanism that causes it to only squeal in the first 4 minutes, that's what I "think" it is.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 05-23-2010, 03:32 PM
lild's Avatar
lild lild is offline
livin the 'Fest
Location: where ever my car takes me
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,281
Mein Auto: 97' 528i, 06 ninja
well i know mine leaks, and when it is low, on cold starts the pump will whine until the car warms up which at the same time fluid level seems to build up and stops unless it's real low.
__________________
The more you complain, the longer God makes you live. SPHOBA #00002
:
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old 05-23-2010, 07:36 PM
Redskin Redskin is offline
Registered User
Location: Australia
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 75
Mein Auto: 528i
I have a similar noise, 528i 1997, found that it is when the coolant is low, once I top it up it goes away, so I think it has to do with the water pump although the noise seems to come from the right hand side of the engine. I can't work out where I am loosing fluid from I will have to pressure test it.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 05-25-2010, 04:56 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redskin View Post
when the coolant is low, once I top it up it goes away
Interesting. Easy enough to check. Will do.

Also, I flushed the power steering a few times with Dexron VI.
I bought new belts.
I picked up a mechanic's stethoscope.
And, while I was at it, I replaced the worn power steering reservoir cap o ring.

Here are some related references for xref purposes:
- Fixing the always-wet reservoir cap (magnum, others)
- Power Steering noise (bbmw528i, bluebee,maxout2008,
- Power steering leak (nc530i-2003)
- Cloudy power steering fluid (yknotsail)


Last edited by bluebee; 05-25-2010 at 04:58 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 05-28-2010, 12:12 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
I really couldn't tell much from the stethoscope. It all sounds loud no matter where I poke it.

All in all, unless I'm missing something fundamental, the mechanic's stethoscope is wholly useless for determining where this type of engine squeal comes from.

To whomever it was who suggested it ... have you ever tried it to locate a squeal?

If so, what's the trick ('cuz I'm missing it)?

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	steering_o-ring.jpg
Views:	40734
Size:	217.5 KB
ID:	231973   Click image for larger version

Name:	steering_flush.jpg
Views:	28831
Size:	107.9 KB
ID:	231974  
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 05-28-2010, 08:53 PM
july865 july865 is offline
Registered User
Location: so cal
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Mein Auto: 97 528i
i worked for GM for quite sometime. we had a TSB (tech service bulletin) relating to belt pilling. pilling is caused from the belt material gathering in the lands and groves of various pulleys. that in turn would cause the belt to raise itself off the pulley and shift just enough to chirp or squeal. we also had to check for mis-aligned pulleys. PS pump was notorious for that. anyway, we had to go over each and every pulley with a wire brush and a pick to scrape all the pilling out. was a pain in the azz. once that was done the belt was replaced.
as for the stethoscope, use the longest screw driver or socket extension you have. wasnt uncommon for me to use my 30'' 3/8 extension or my breaker bar. then put your ear to the handle and listen... its easy once you get the hang of it and know what to listen for.
g/l

Last edited by july865; 05-28-2010 at 08:57 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 05-30-2010, 12:05 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by july865 View Post
as for the stethoscope... its easy once you get the hang of it and know what to listen forl
No matter where I put the tip of the mechanics stethoscope, everything sounded hugely loud and tinny, with vibrations and growls and a cacophony of sounds emanating from every which way.

The fact nothing seemed different when the intermittent squealing occurred, indicates, to me, perhaps, it's a component isolated from the engine block.

The biggest problem was that I couldn't put the tip of the stethoscope on the idler pulley or the alternator pulley itself or any moving component.

So, the use of a stethoscope, at least in my hands, is busted.

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20100526 001-20100319_16-24-49-.jpg
Views:	6805
Size:	337.1 KB
ID:	232285  
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 05-30-2010, 08:55 AM
scott0357 scott0357 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 332
Mein Auto: 2003 530i
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I really couldn't tell much from the stethoscope. It all sounds loud no matter where I poke it.

To whomever it was who suggested it ... have you ever tried it to locate a squeal?

There was a very loud constant squealing noise from my 2003 530i engine compartment, and I thought the engine was falling apart. Using the stethoscope, I identified that the noise was coming from the bearing of the alternator. After replacing the alternator, car was back to normal. Also just recently, another squealing noise was developed and it was intermittent. Again using the stethoscope, I identified the noise was from the tensioner (next to the water pump). It is true that everywhere sounds loud when listening w/ the stethoscope, but the noise is the loudest near the origin of the noise. You just need to have more practice w/ the stethoscope. You can start probing from the back of the engine bay where the noise is the lowest and slowly move the stethoscope toward the front. You should be able to tell which locations have the loudest noise. With more practice, you can play doctor for your car. When you probe the back of the power steering pump and the back of the tensioner or the alternator, the noises are loud but they sound different. Just play around and pay careful attention to different noises.
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 05-30-2010, 10:43 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by scott0357 View Post
It is true that everywhere sounds loud when listening w/ the stethoscope, but the noise is the loudest near the origin of the noise. You just need to have more practice w/ the stethoscope.
Here's a video of how I was using the mechanics stethoscope to identify the cause of the squeal. The whole test was inconclusive at best!

I don't see how anyone can tell the difference (maybe I'm doing something wrong).

The first video is of me doing the stethoscope. The other two videos are the squeal itself (it's intermittent so it showed up more in the first two while the engine was warming up).

1-minute video of trying to use a stethoscope to determine cause:


1-minute video of the BMW E39 engine squeal of unknown cause:


2-minute video of the BMW E39 engine squeal of unknown cause:
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 06-02-2010, 12:54 PM
scott0357 scott0357 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 332
Mein Auto: 2003 530i
It looks like you have the right probing technique. Probe on the metal parts, not the pastic parts since metal is a better sound conductor. If you probe the back of the alternator and then the power steering pump, you should be able to tell the difference. Different bearings produce their own unique sound. Pay close attention and listen for 20s at each of these locations. I was a beginner at using the stethoscope and only took me a couple of minutes to be able to tell the difference in sounds from different parts.
The other way to do this is removing the drive belt, and spin the pulleys and tensioners by hand (don't start the car) and listen w/ the stethoscope. You should be able to tell the difference between a really bad bearing and a good one. Sometimes, bad bearings don't produce loud noise unless under tension, i.e. from the drive belt.
From my own experience, the noise does sound like a bad bearing from one of the tensioners. It doesn't sound like a bad power steering pump or alternator.
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 06-03-2010, 03:37 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
What would you buy ahead of time for a serpentine belt DIY R&R?

Quote:
Originally Posted by scott0357 View Post
It looks like you have the right probing technique... the noise does sound like a bad bearing from one of the tensioners... It doesn't sound like a bad power steering pump or alternator.
Thanks. I will probe again, especially when the engine starts off stone cold and I won't be pre-occupied with taking a representative video.

BTW, I really did probe more than just a few seconds on each part; I was trying to show, in the video, the "technique", and didn't think people would have the patience to sit through a long period of each probe in the video.

I'm not at all sure what disassembly I need to replace the belts and test the tensioners ... so I will see if there's a specific thread for that (otherwise I'll hit up cn90's power-steering pump DIY which might be more than I need).

Since we're already half there, I might need to order the parts ahead of time.

May I ask ... in a "typical" serpentine belt replacement and noise-problem such as mine ... what would you typically buy ahead of time?

- main serpentine belt (I bought a new one already)
- a/c belt (I bought a new one already)
- tensioner 1 (???)
- tensioner 2 (???)
- power steering pump (???)
- (what would you buy ahead of time of a belt R&R ???)
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 06-03-2010, 10:33 AM
scott0357 scott0357 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 332
Mein Auto: 2003 530i
You don’t need special tools to R&R the AC and drive belts. Just need a socket (15mm?), wrench and an extension bar, which you can use a 1” hollow pipe from any hardware store and slide it onto the handle bar of the wrench. Your car has two mechanical tensioners: One for the AC (H in your diagram) and one for the long drive belt (B in your diagram). See attached image. Remove the AC belt first, then the drive belt. Draw a picture of how the drive belt is positioned before removing it; you’ll need this picture as a reference when installing the belt. Put the socket (15mm?) on the bolt of the tensioner and rotate clockwise to release the tension, slide the belt off. Sometimes, it maybe helpful in removing the clutch fan to free up some work room. For that, you’ll need a special wrench, which you can buy from Ebay at a discount or from bavauto.com. If you see micro cracks on the belts, replace them. The belts are usually good for 60-70k mi.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	tensioner.jpg
Views:	97
Size:	63.0 KB
ID:	232925  
Reply With Quote
  #41  
Old 07-11-2010, 10:29 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by scott0357 View Post
For that, you’ll need a special wrench.

I picked up the wrench for the fan clutch
and the wrench to hold the water pump pulley.

I'm still scared, but, I'll have to attack this soon.

Still wondering what parts to buy, ahead of time ... but I have a pretty good idea so far of what it might be (rollers, tensioners, pulleys, etc.).

Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 08-03-2010, 10:19 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I'm still scared, but, I'll have to attack this soon.
Well, I guess if you wait long enough on an unexplained noise, you'll either sell the car or something will finally break catastrophically, and THEN you'll know what it was.

In my case, a week ago, my alternator failed suddenly ... and when I replaced the belts, mechanical tensioners, and idler pulley, the squeal described in this thread disappeared!

The epic saga is described (in gory detail) here if anyone else has this problem and needs to see a solution (albeit convoluted).

The belt-drive system recommended replacement parts list is described here.

Various non-intuitive tricks are described, like how to get the fan clutch nut back on (here) and how to remove the radiator hose w/o breaking anything (here).

Now if someone asks the same questions I've asked in this thread, I now KNOW the answer, thanks to all of you!

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	bmw_e39_i6_belt_drive_system.gif
Views:	1419
Size:	119.3 KB
ID:	240899  
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 10-18-2010, 05:15 AM
bmw_jeff_325i bmw_jeff_325i is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Connecticut
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 289
Mein Auto: 2003 525i
Cold Start Squeal

I have this same exact squeal on cold start-up on my 2003 525i.....im relieved to a certain extent that I know what the sound is.....however....I think Im going to live with it for a while....... If I get motivated in the Spring I guess I start wih replacing the idler pulley, 2 tensioners and belts....being that my car by Spring will be almost 8 years old with about 50K miles I think Im due for a belt replacement anyway.
__________________
Current BMWs:
2014 E84 X1
2006 E53 X5
Past BMWs:
2008 E70 X5
2003 E39 525i
2001 E46 330ci
2001 E46 325i
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 10-18-2010, 06:16 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_jeff_325i View Post
I have this same exact squeal ... Im going to live with it for a while...
My squeal started in about May and the car died in the middle of the road in about August, so, that gave me 4 months to consider it.

My squeal was intermittently loud and soft and only for the first few minutes (getting worse, of course, over time).

To this day, I do not know what the problem was because it was so hard (for me) to diagnose; but bear in mind that it will eventually show itself as a broken part at some point while you're driving.

I might conclude it was the alternator only because when I removed the alternator for testing, all three tests on the removed alternator failed. That tells me it was something there, perhaps bearings which heated up destroying the electronics.

Or, it could have been a slipping belt (in which case the model-year 2002 alternator frying at 90K miles was just coincidence); or it could have been any one of the pulleys or the idler roller (all of which spun dryly after being removed).

The only problem with waiting is that you'll get stuck in the middle of the road, like I was. If you can handle that, waiting will work just fine (it's what I did since I hate to replace stuff that isn't broken yet).
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 10-25-2010, 05:33 AM
bmw_jeff_325i bmw_jeff_325i is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Connecticut
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 289
Mein Auto: 2003 525i
Living with it...

is not as easy as I thought....the sound is so annoying now that I know what the problem is and that is fairly easy to repair...I determined this weekend that I definitely have the mechanical tensioners on my vehicle when I was totally expecting the hydraulic type with my build date of 5/03....the two (2) mech. tensioners (im not going to bother to switch), idler/deflection pulley and two (2) belts are going to run me about $155 delivered from AutohausAZ....I think IM going to go for it in the next two (2) weeks.....now I just need the 32MM wrench and holding tool to remove the fan.
__________________
Current BMWs:
2014 E84 X1
2006 E53 X5
Past BMWs:
2008 E70 X5
2003 E39 525i
2001 E46 330ci
2001 E46 325i
Reply With Quote
  #46  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:45 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_jeff_325i View Post
I definitely have the mechanical tensioners on my vehicle when I was totally expecting the hydraulic type with my build date of 5/03
Good that you figured out what you have.

As for "predicting" what it will be, the consensus is that there is no way to tell ... not by VIN ... not by year ... not by build date. Some said even calling the stealer won't help. You can have mechanical or hydraulic or both on any E39.

More details in this bestlinks thread:
- How to tell if you have spring drive belt tensioners or hydraulic belt tension (or both)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_jeff_325i View Post
the two (2) mech. tensioners (im not going to bother to switch)
I agree with you.

It appears that switching from mechanical to hydraulic is somewhat "problematic" because it's not always a 1:1 fit (you'd think it would be ... ). Apparently you have to get a fitment kit (it is said); plus, nobody says either one is better than the other.

More information in this bestlinks thread:
- Changing from Mechanical tensioner to Hydraulic tensioner for your serpentine belt drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_jeff_325i View Post
now I just need the 32MM wrench and holding tool to remove the fan.
See this bestlinks thread for details on the tools:
- How to make your own BMW special cooling & belt drive system counterhold tools (1)

For one users' belt-drive system overhaul, see this DIY here:

Last edited by bluebee; 10-27-2010 at 07:55 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 10-27-2010, 04:28 PM
bmw_jeff_325i bmw_jeff_325i is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Connecticut
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 289
Mein Auto: 2003 525i
I received my parts from Bavauto and they sent me aftermarket tensioners and idler pulley manufactured by "uroparts"....they were doing a price match to autohausaz which were OE parts by "INA".....who the heck is uroparts?....I think I'm sending these back.....at least the belts were conti!
__________________
Current BMWs:
2014 E84 X1
2006 E53 X5
Past BMWs:
2008 E70 X5
2003 E39 525i
2001 E46 330ci
2001 E46 325i
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 10-27-2010, 08:00 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_jeff_325i View Post
idler pulley manufactured by "uroparts"....
The recommended brands are listed here:
- Recommended parts & brands for a complete drive belt system overhaul (1)

I don't see anyone mention "uroparts" so maybe we should dig a bit further to see if "uroparts" is also recommended or not.

Here's the short list:
- alternator/ps/wp drive belt (CRP-Contitech)
- A/C compressor drive belt (CRP-Contitech)
- idler roller (INA is OEM, can also get SKF)
- A/C belt tensioner (INA is OEM, can also get SKF or Ruville or Lemfoerder)
- alternator/ps/wp belt tensioner (INA is OEM, can also get SKF, Ruville, or Lemfoerder)
- alternator, 120Amp (Bosch and Valeo are OEM; replace yours with the same as you're taking out)
- viscious fan clutch (Behr is OEM, Sachs is recommended brand, MFC is not recommended)
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 10-28-2010, 04:32 AM
bmw_jeff_325i bmw_jeff_325i is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Connecticut
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 289
Mein Auto: 2003 525i
Getting slightly off-topic here...

but here is a few cellphone pics for the record of these "uroparts". They appear to be close matches to the OEM from what I can tell.

Update...I returned these things today..the Customer Service rep. at BAVAUTO had never heard of "INA"....I re-purchased everything from another vendor.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00052-20101028-0602.jpg
Views:	86
Size:	121.6 KB
ID:	252225   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00053-20101028-0602.jpg
Views:	81
Size:	104.1 KB
ID:	252226   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00054-20101028-0602.jpg
Views:	73
Size:	114.0 KB
ID:	252227  
__________________
Current BMWs:
2014 E84 X1
2006 E53 X5
Past BMWs:
2008 E70 X5
2003 E39 525i
2001 E46 330ci
2001 E46 325i

Last edited by bmw_jeff_325i; 10-28-2010 at 01:31 PM. Reason: Update
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old 10-29-2010, 12:08 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,463
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_jeff_325i View Post
the Customer Service rep. at BAVAUTO had never heard of "INA"
Wow. That's a shock. Sometimes I wonder about these guys, whether they're lying or just plain ignorant (note, I didn't say styupid because that's a different problem altogether).

Reminds me of the time I brought my BMW to the dealership for violent shudder and they professed to know nothing about it - even though - I found out later - it's a well known and very common problem (under certain circumstances).

You can only conclude they're ignorant or they're lying ... and you really can't tell which from which. Sorry about that.

Now, by saying that, please understand that I AM IGNORANT too ... but I don't work as a Bavauto or BMW parts person so my expectation of knowing a UROparts from a INA is different. For all I know, it could be the same company with different brands (witness Axxis and PBR & Repco & BendixMintex & MetalMasters, etc. for example).

It's a shame if Bavauto doesn't know this. I'll bet Mark at EAC Tuning or one of the OEMBimmerparts guys would know all about it (and give a recommendation around that experience).

NOTE: INA is "clearly" marked on the OEM tensioner!

Last edited by bluebee; 10-29-2010 at 12:11 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:52 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms