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Old 01-18-2015, 05:38 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Oil Filter Housing & Heat Exchanger Gaskets DIY

Vehicle: 2008 BMW X3
Engine: N52
Mileage: ~97,000

Tools required:
-E-torx sockets (E10, E12)
-10mm socket
-allen socket set
-ratchet, short & long extensions, wobble extension
-E10 & E12 ratcheting wrench
-T-47 (probably T-45) tor-x socket
-oil absorbent pads
-Tor-x driver set
-flat head screw driver
-needle-nose pliers
-2-3 12" lengths of thick wire

helpful tools:
-telescoping mirror
-telescoping magnet (for lost bolts/tools)
-torque wrench (I have several, but lacking torque specs, just torqued until comfortable tightening steel into aluminum.)

Let me start out by saying I am quite pissed; I had planned to make a thorough, step-by-step DIY for the oil filter housing gasket, heat exchanger gasket, and VANOS solenoid o-rings for the X3 with N52, but all my pictures got deleted while transferring to my computer so this will be marginal at best. While searching in the past, I'd found information on the X3 with M54, or E90 with N52, but nothing for X3 N52.

That being said, I will try to make my words create the picture for you. I will take pictures showing what I can again, but obviously will not repeat the entire procedure.

YOU DO NOT NEED TO DRAIN THE OIL OR THE COOLANT IN ORDER TO PERFORM THESE PROCEDURES. IF THIS PROCEDURE IS FOLLOWED, YOU WILL ONLY LOSE ~2 TBSP EACH OF COOLANT AND OIL. LEAVE THE COOLING HOSES AND OIL FILTER CAP IN PLACE.

1) Remove the radiator shroud cover by removing the 4 10mm bolts atop the radiator. Mine were heavily oxidized, so replaced them with stainless steel bolts available from the local hardware store. Remove shroud cover.

2) Once removed, you'll find the 4 Tor-X bolts required to remove the intake snorkel from the air filter assembly. The square tube running from the intake snorkel to the air filter housing simply slips into place at each end, so both are removed.

3) Remove the fan. There is an electrical plug at each side. The fan is held in place with a tor-x screw on the passenger side, and a plastic rivet on the driver's side. *This step ensures ample work space. Once removed, examine the expansion tank (use a telescoping mirror to examine the underside) for leaks. *THE COOLING SYSTEM BLEEDER SCREW IS NOW ACCESSIBLE*

4) Open up the cabin air filter housing located at the base of the windshield. There are 3 "push-and-twist-90*-left" buttons to open the lid. Remove cabin filter. You can now access the 4 Tor-X bolts required to remove the filter tray.

5) With tray removed, you now have access to all 4 allen bolts to remove the engine cover. There are 2 visible up front, one aft towards the center-line of the cover, and one down on the passenger side along the edge of the cover. It is NOT necessary to remove the strut tower brace. I removed the cover simply for more space to work with, and to clean beneath it.

6) Wrap the alternator and belts with oil absorbant pads ("diapers"). As I'd forgotten them at my house, I used aluminum foil. I also created an aluminum foil tray sitting on the lower engine tray to catch any fluid.

7) Remove the 2 Tor-x bolts that hold the power steering fluid reservoir in place. I think they are size T-45, but since I had left my Tor-x socket set at home, I used a T-47 at an angle in order to remove these. This step will give you more access for removing the filter housing bolts later on. Pull the reservoir to the side and wire out of the way.

8) Remove the sensor wire from the brown sensor located atop the filter housing by pressing down on the metal wire/clip and pull the plug off the sensor. Locate out of the way.

9) The heat exchanger is the aluminum rectangular box located forward of the oil filter cap. It it held on by 3 E12 E-torx bolts; there are 2 on either side, and one on the bottom side just to center of the lower hose that runs into the heat exchanger. You can use the E12 socket and ratchet. While removing the 3 bolts, try and keep the heat exchanger pressed up against the oil filter housing to minimize fluid spillage. Once the 3 bolts are removed, quickly pull the exchanger towards the front of the car and flip towards you, opening it up. Do not drop the exchanger lower than the top of the radiator, or coolant will be lost. Likewise, if you squeeze the coolant hose, coolant will be lost. Use a piece of wire to hold it up in position, out of the way. You can leave the gasket in place at this time, and use a rag to wipe out any oil from the filter housing.

10) Now it is time to remove the oil filter housing; I've read warnings of getting to the 3rd "hidden" bolt on the back side of it, but I am telling you that you do NOT have to remove the intake on the N52; people claim you have to on the N55, but I doubt that.

The 3 bolts are E10 E-torx. You'll want to also have an E10-E12 ratcheting wrench. Start by removing the top bolt (the longest bolt). You can remove it all the way. Next, loosen the front, lower bolt (shortest bolt) using the ratcheting wrench, but do not loosen too much OR THE WRENCH WILL BACK OUT WITH THE BOLT AND WEDGE AGAINST THE HOSE FLANGE ON THE CYLINDER HEAD AND YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE WRENCH.

Now, work on the "hidden" bolt. You can use the E-10 socket, a swivel attachment, and long extension to use a ratchet, but I used the ratcheting wrench. Note: you can NOT use the wrench from the front. Instead, slip the wrench down between the runners of the intake with one hand, while with the other hand slip fingers towards the bolt head, past the oil filter cap. Use this hand to put the head of the wrench on the bolt and hold it there. With the hand atop the intake, you can reach your fingers through the runners to operate the wrench up and down. The entire wrench will be beneath the intake, and be operated between the intake manifold and the engine block, so don't drop it! If necessary, bent a piece of strong wire through the E12 side of the wrench and fashion a handle on the top of the wire, and use the wire to pull the wrench UP to loosen the filter housing bolt. I'm 6'-1", 200lbs and would not classify my hands as "small", so you should be able to reach through the intake runners just fine. Remove the bolt.

Now, you can pull the filter housing out, while using the ratcheting wrench on the front, lower bolt. Keep bolt head close to seated on the flange so the wrench does not get stuck. Remove bolt. Pull filter housing up and away, flexing the upper coolant hose.

11) Use a pick to pull out the old gasket. Be careful as the pick is steel and the housing is aluminum. I cleaned both mating surfaces using brake cleaner and scotchbrite, which worked well. Be careful that bits of scotch brite do not break off and fall into the oil/cooling passages.

12) Install new gasket by pressing into place.

13) Reinstall filter housing is the reverse of removal. Be sure to start all bolts by hand to make sure they are not cross threaded. I snug bolts until the wrench/ratchet stops, if I'm operating the tool with my hand on the wrench/ratchet on top of the bolt, not the end of the handle. Do all 3 to this point to ensure equal compression of the gasket. Then, tighten another ~1/8-1/4 turn.

14) Remove/replace the heat exchanger gasket and clean mating surfaces the same as listed above.

15) Installation of the heat exchanger is the reverse of its removal.

16) Plug in sensor wire removed in step #7, and reinstall the power steering fluid reservoir.

IF YOU ARE NOT WORKING ON THE SOLENOIDS, SKIP TO STEP 22

17) Locate the 2 VANOS solenoids located beneath the center line of the valve cover. Unplug both wires, following the same "press and pull" method used on numerous other BMW electrical plugs.

18) Remove the 10mm retaining bolt for the UPPER solenoid first. DO ONE AT A TIME TO ENSURE BOLTS DO NOT DROP INSIDE THE HEAD OR YOUR LIFE WILL SUCK. Twist and pull solenoid out. Use a pick to remove the gray o-ring as it is probably still seated in the head.

19) Clean or replace the solenoid; I cleaned mine with carburetor cleaner, but will probably replace them anyway because 100k miles. Slide the black plastic sleeve away from the head of the solenoid and replace with new.

20) Coat new grey o-ring with new oil, and seat in place in the head. Install solenoid (twist as you press into the head) until fully seated. Reinstall bolt.

21) Repeat steps 18-20 for the lower solenoid.

22) Reinstall engine cover, cabin filter tray, and then filter. Remove diapers/aluminum foils being careful not to lose fluid.

23) Check coolant level on tank dipstick. Note: a loss of only a few table spoons will not be noticeable.

24) Start engine. Use a flashlight to check for leaks/dash lights. Pull car to the location in which you perform oil changes and engine cleanings and shut of engine. Spray front of engine/inner side of block beneath intake manifold and use old toothbrush to clean oil off engine and belts. Spray with hose.

25) Start engine. Let run for a few minutes to warm oil. Shut off.

26) *Oil Change. Probably not necessary, but I waited to do this job until I was due for one 1) just in case, and 2) remove any scotchbrite bits/coolant that may have fallen into oil passages of heat exchanger/filter housing.

27) Reinstall fan. Remember to plug in both electrical connectors. Leave snorkel off until the end.

28) Start engine. While bringing up to operating temperature, turn cabin temp. up to max (91*). After running a few minutes, loosen bleeder screw on upper coolant tank house until clean fluid (no bubbles) spits out.

*NOTE: I did not follow the electric water-pump bleeding procedure that is mentioned in pretty much every thread concerning the cooling system. Work here was performed a top of the cooling system (where any air would be), the system was not drained, and only a tiny amount of coolant was lost. Personally, I also think that guys get entirely too OCD about bleeding the cooling system anyway.

29) Tighten bleeder screw. (you can repeat bleeding for peace of mind if desired) Let engine come up to operating temperature to ensure success.

30) Reinstall air snorkel.

31) Have a beer!

Again, apologies for lack of pictures (I had at least 1 for every step).
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Last edited by dukedkt442; 01-18-2015 at 08:08 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-19-2015, 06:32 AM
rav31 rav31 is offline
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Very good write up duke! Thanks for sharing. For others that want additional info on this, here's a video of the (2) OFH gaskets on a N52 X3: Maybe you could tell how your's was compared it.


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Old 01-19-2015, 07:09 AM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Mine was pretty much exactly how it was in the video.

Thanks for looking; I'm hoping between the 2, guys will tackle the job themselves and NOT do more work than is required. My BMW dealer wanted $700 to do the work, which I can't understand even with $125/hr labor, unless they priced the labor for both items separately. Most importantly, no need to pull the intake or drain the coolant, or even remove the oil filter.
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:51 AM
jlex jlex is offline
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If there was something wrong with your memory card that deleted the pix on your camera, you may want to hunt around for a program that will restore the pix. Had something similar happen to mine a few months ago. Use google to find a good reliable program to help you. They're not very expensive & may be free to try on a trial basis.
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:01 AM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlex View Post
If there was something wrong with your memory card that deleted the pix on your camera, you may want to hunt around for a program that will restore the pix. Had something similar happen to mine a few months ago. Use google to find a good reliable program to help you. They're not very expensive & may be free to try on a trial basis.
Nah, this was operator error. Tried to erase a separate, individual folder off the memory card, ended up deleting everything. Note to self: transfer files first, then delete.
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Old 03-06-2015, 06:06 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Update: the heat exchanger gasket I bought was a URO, and when I replaced it, it didn't feel much more pliable than the failed gasket that I was replacing, which had me raising an eyebrow. Sure enough, it started leaking again within a month. However, the fine folks at ECS credited me the cost of the gasket, and I ordered and installed a BMW gasket. The BMW gasket was far softer and more pliable than the URO, so I'm knocking on every piece of wood I can find that I don't have to do this again.
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Old 03-08-2015, 03:41 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Thanks for posting this. I bit the bullet and paid my indy shop about $450 to replace both gaskets. This N52 engine has so many strong points, but you can count on every gasket failing.
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Old 03-08-2015, 05:15 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSUEng View Post
Thanks for posting this. I bit the bullet and paid my indy shop about $450 to replace both gaskets. This N52 engine has so many strong points, but you can count on every gasket failing.
Part and parcel for any rubber part on any engine; flat fabric gaskets would probably last longer, and typically weep oil when old rather than spray & shoot.
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:41 PM
rdc8118 rdc8118 is offline
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I just did them on the weekend. The bolt under the intake runner is a royal pain. I only had 3/8' socket swivel and couldn't get it to work. They guy in the video must have used a 1/4" socket and swivel. I ended up sticking the wratchet wrench between the first intake runner and the oil cooler house from the top. It was slow going but got the bolt out. I dropped the wrench twice and the bolt once but was able to fish it out with with the telecsopic magnet pick up tool. Quite the Oh Sh^t moment when the bolt dropped down.

As for third party gaskets I learned my lesson with the valve cover gasket. Never again, I'll gladly pay more for the BMW gaskets, I hate doing the same job twice.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:49 AM
jlex jlex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
Nah, this was operator error. Tried to erase a separate, individual folder off the memory card, ended up deleting everything. Note to self: transfer files first, then delete.
Some of those nifty programs can re-create accidentally deleted files as well.... Files aren't really "erased" unless the medium is re-formatted or the space is re-written. They may be just masked & waiting for you!
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Old 03-10-2015, 05:08 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdc8118 View Post
I just did them on the weekend. The bolt under the intake runner is a royal pain. I only had 3/8' socket swivel and couldn't get it to work. They guy in the video must have used a 1/4" socket and swivel. I ended up sticking the wratchet wrench between the first intake runner and the oil cooler house from the top. It was slow going but got the bolt out. I dropped the wrench twice and the bolt once but was able to fish it out with with the telecsopic magnet pick up tool. Quite the Oh Sh^t moment when the bolt dropped down.
Yup the ratcheting wrench is what I suggested in my DIY; I found it really easy, especially if you wanted to be safe and attach a string from one end of the wrench to your hand. I don't know if this is what you described doing, but I had the entire wrench beneath the intake runners; getting the bolt out didn't take much time at all since I got at least 45* of wrench movement.

Dropping the bolt really isn't an "oh sh1t" moment, other than potential difficulty in retrieving it; it didn't fall into anything that'll cause damage, it'll just hit the block and roll down to the plastic engine tray.
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Old 04-30-2016, 06:19 PM
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Are the bolts holding on the oil filter housing and cooler one time use only?
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Old 04-30-2016, 07:57 PM
x3brian x3brian is offline
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Are the bolts holding on the oil filter housing and cooler one time use only?

No
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:10 PM
R ODonnell R ODonnell is offline
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If you're getting ready to do yours this will make removing the bolt under the intake so much easier.

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-922...custrec_signin
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:37 PM
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Ordered one earlier today!

Planning on doing this sometime in the next week. Looks like a fairly straightforward and easy procedure.
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Old 05-01-2016, 07:38 AM
R ODonnell R ODonnell is offline
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Ordered one earlier today!

Planning on doing this sometime in the next week. Looks like a fairly straightforward and easy procedure.
It is. Another tip is to use bamboo BBQ skewers to dig the crud out of the groove. You can get aggressive with it and not worry about gouging the aluminum.
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Old 05-01-2016, 07:43 AM
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Very good tip! Thank you!! Wouldn't have thought of that
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:43 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Don't forget scotch bright to clean the oxidation off the mating surfaces. Don't use a gasket scraper, it'll gouge aluminum and then you'll be really screwed.
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Old 05-06-2016, 05:09 AM
BMWaufKS BMWaufKS is offline
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Must be ratcheting wrench?

Quote:
Originally Posted by R ODonnell View Post
If you're getting ready to do yours this will make removing the bolt under the intake so much easier.

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-922...custrec_signin
This job is on the horizon for me. I already have the regular Torx ("star") wrenches -- are ratcheting versions absolutely necessary for this (or the valve cover gasket, coming later) job? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:04 AM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Yes. Without it you'll have to remove the intake; with it, you can attack a stick to the end of the wrench and operate the wrench with it below the intake but keeping the intake in place.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:31 AM
BMWaufKS BMWaufKS is offline
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Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
Yes. Without it you'll have to remove the intake
Hmmm ... I have Torx sockets and plenty of extensions/flex connectors/... they work instead?
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Since 1/2016, restoring a
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Since 3/2017, also restoring a
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Modifications:
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:26 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Doubtful. The third bolt is down underneath the intake and I doubt extensions and a swivel would get the job done; many guys resort to pulling the intake because they can't get their fingers to the wrench once it's in place on the bolt. The wrench is a couple of bucks on eBay, well worth the aggravation.

But there's one way to tell: before you even start the job, see if you can finagle your tools onto the third bolt. If not, order the wrench.
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:46 AM
BMWaufKS BMWaufKS is offline
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OK, set on the way. Tools are my big-boy toys!
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Since 1/2016, restoring a
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Old 08-11-2016, 09:57 AM
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Duked,

How long did this take for you to do?
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Old 08-11-2016, 11:39 AM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Oil Filter Housing & Heat Exchanger Gaskets DIY

Probably an hour and a half, including the oil change, taking my time and thoroughly cleaning. My times are not necessarily indicative of what you may expect, however.
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