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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Talk about the E83 BMW X3 in this forum!

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  #1  
Old 08-16-2011, 08:52 PM
Proud Highway Proud Highway is offline
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Mein Auto: 2009 X5 3.0; 2006 X3 3.0
Popping noise from front end -- UPDATE: FIXED

I have a 2006 3.0i that makes a popping/clunking noise from the front end when the wheels are turned at slow speeds. At first it started only when the car was going in reverse while making a 90* pull out of the garage. The popping noise has started to manifest itself when going forward now too. The sound almost resembles a clunk--but there is no feedback at the steering wheel or discernible vibration in the cabin. There is no slop or looseness in the steering either.

Any ideas?

Bearings -- no grinding noise.
CV joint -- possible, but doesn't have the characteristic clicking sound and steering wheel feedback.
Tie rods / linkages - everything feels tight in this dept.
Steering rack / pinion -- ?

[see update below]

Last edited by Proud Highway; 08-28-2011 at 05:41 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-17-2011, 08:05 AM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 X3 2.5i
Transfer case problems are not unheard of in 2006's:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...6&postcount=18

I'd change the fluid - good insurance anyway.

If it was that, noise could be transmitted forward making you think it was around the front suspension or steering gear.
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  #3  
Old 08-17-2011, 08:30 AM
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mlukas161 mlukas161 is online now
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Sway Bar End Links are known to do this. Easy to replace and not expensive either... about 30 dollars per side. There is also a Tension Strut/Thrust Arm Bushing that can cause a clunk when it's worn out.
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  #4  
Old 08-17-2011, 12:46 PM
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X3emist X3emist is offline
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I would definetly have it looked at

anything with the front end could be a safety issue
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  #5  
Old 08-28-2011, 05:39 PM
Proud Highway Proud Highway is offline
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Mein Auto: 2009 X5 3.0; 2006 X3 3.0
UPDATE:
After spending 5 hours inspecting every linkage and component in the front end, my indy shop found the culprit: A LOOSE BOLT ON THE FRONT SUBFRAME! They looked up the torque spec and 10 minutes later she was buttoned up and made not a peep. I was charged for 2 hours of labor. I though for sure I was going to need a new steering rack and pinion ($1800?). It was a happy ending.

Last edited by Proud Highway; 08-30-2011 at 08:54 PM.
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  #6  
Old 08-30-2011, 07:09 PM
didymos didymos is offline
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I just got something similar or may be same. Just heard it this Sunday. Right at the left foot. When the car begins to move and turns, drives with low speed and turns. It like knock or pop, crisp sound for sure. I begin to wonder. Where is this this front subrfame bold?
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  #7  
Old 09-02-2011, 04:09 PM
Proud Highway Proud Highway is offline
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I wish I knew where the bolt was, I know it's under the front skid plate somewhere.
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  #8  
Old 09-24-2011, 08:00 PM
didymos didymos is offline
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Got it done today. bought extended Torx-18 at Napa and set of Torxs (another needed is T-14) at Sears. I knew that bolts (there are 4 of them) for T-18 require 105mN torque (77.4 ft-lb). I was not sure how much the T14 (there are 2 of them) need though so just tightened to 30 ft-lb. I am glad I had a torque wrench with the visible analog meter (neighbor had it), made me aware how far I was from the target.

FYI T-18 is 1/2" like most upper force torque wrenches. T-14 is 3/8 so needed a converter with it.

Adjusting with T-14 requires unscrewing two screws from the fender inner shield. Two front T-18 made me remove front tires and the angle was still tight.

Took a short, slow and full of turns ride and did not hear a thing, hopefully got it resolved.

Thanks for the original post, saved me time & $ identifying the issue.

Last edited by didymos; 09-24-2011 at 08:09 PM.
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  #9  
Old 05-12-2013, 01:03 PM
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What caused mine

I had this issue but the problem was a few additional things, see my post here-
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=695692
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  #10  
Old 07-25-2013, 11:16 PM
Alance Alance is offline
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Hello,

Didymos, do you have some pictures of this bolts? I do not know where are this bolts?
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  #11  
Old 04-15-2014, 05:14 PM
slilley slilley is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 BMW 330i ZHP
Loose bolt holding Lower reinforcement plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by didymos View Post
I just got something similar or may be same. Just heard it this Sunday. Right at the left foot. When the car begins to move and turns, drives with low speed and turns. It like knock or pop, crisp sound for sure. I begin to wonder. Where is this this front subrfame bold?
I had the same problem as didymos. It was especially noticeable when backing out of the garage. It felt like something was happening right under the footrest where you rest your left foot.

I knew the shock absorbers were failed (leaking fluid, now they provide almost no damping), so I first suspected the upper shock mount, followed by the swaybar end link. But when I got under there to look at all the bushings and subframe, I found that one bolt on the lower reinforcement plate was so loose I could turn it by hand. After checking all the other subframe bolts to confirm they were still tight, I reinstalled that lower reinforcement plate. (Anyone know what the correct torque value is for this part?) Problem resolved!

Thank god for this forum...I don't know if I would have thought to check that. In fact, knowing the suspension was suspect, I almost placed and order for for over $1K for new springs and shocks. Now I can wait to do that until it's absolutely necessary.

Regards,
Steve
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  #12  
Old 06-29-2014, 07:23 PM
miloc miloc is offline
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Mein Auto: 2005 X3 3.0i 6-speed MT
Silley, Didymos, and everyone else for this forum. I have the same exact problem. A local mechanic told me it was the pinion and rack that need to be replaced, he told me I have to fix it right away because it is a safety hazard ($800 for the used part and $600 labor). After reading your experience I'm a bit more confident about the issue and will try to repair it myself. I'm pretty sure it is not the pinion and rack because I had the dealer replace the steering fluid pump 1 month ago or so and my service adviser told me the rack was fine.

A local mechanic in Brooklyn found the faulty bolt, click here for an actual pic: http://1drv.ms/TKFQuJ

He couldnt tighten it up that much, it keeps rotating and doesn't go anywhere. The mechanic told me that I need a new "Right Tie Rod End". Is it ok if I order it from Autozone? Can I DIY??

Duralast/Tie Rod End
This product is a fit for your:
2005 BMW Truck X3 AWD 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl
Part Number: ES800494
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Price: $51.99



Realoem is not clear about the part number for the tie end rod, well, I can't see "waldo" (No.5?):

No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes Photo
01 Repair kit bellows ZF 2 02/2006 32136751026 $76.13
only in conjunction with
-- Grease FB-1 100G 1 02/2006 83232208093
01 Repair kit bellows 2 32106765782 $50.81
only in conjunction with
-- Grease FB-1 100G 1 83232208093
02 Hose clamp D= 19,4 - 22,5 2 32136756011 $1.82
03 Hose clamp D= 67,8 - 71,0 2 32136751292 $4.38
04 Tie rod 2 32103444999 $141.39
05 Ball joint 2 32303418202 $81.24
06 Hex nut M14X1,5MM 2 32116774889 $3.11
07 CLAMP RING 2 32216774890 $3.80
08 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M14X1,5 05 ZNS3 2 05/2008 31106769443 $1.35

08 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M14X1,5 ZNNIVSI 2 05/2008 31003453633 $1.02

[July 2, 2014 UPDATE]

Finally order the faulty part. I decided to buy the OEM part from BMW of Bloomfield (NJ). Their prices online are cheaper than calling or going to the parts department in their shop. Even with the flat $10 shipping. It does takes a few business days, though.

Here is the price: Item: steering, steering gear & linkage, outer tie rod Right
Price: $84.32
Qty: 1

Add $10 for shipping plus taxes.

Last edited by miloc; 07-03-2014 at 05:19 AM. Reason: Update
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  #13  
Old 05-15-2015, 11:22 AM
silver955i silver955i is offline
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Mein Auto: 528XI
Cracking-Popping front end noise fixed



+1 with regards to PROUD HIGHWAY'S post above. I had the same sound he had. I had my thrust rod bushings replaced...NOPE....."I" tightened one of my front sub frame bolts....noise and cracking immediately disappeared.

2009 BMW X5 48i

Thanks PROUD HIGHWAY
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  #14  
Old 05-15-2015, 07:34 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Mein Auto: 08 E83; '86 442; 84 GMC
With vehicles, always follow the KISS principle. Cured a horrible front-end rattle on my 442 twenty years ago by securing the sway bar mount bolt.

I have heard to check the subframe bolts as the can loosen.
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  #15  
Old 06-14-2015, 05:45 PM
phl08 phl08 is offline
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I think my issue is similar if not the same as on this post.

My 2008 E70 3.0i (72000 miles) had a nasty creaking sound at the front left when turning at slow (parking lot, driveway) speeds. Also when turning corners from a stop. Sway bar link and front control arm ball joint were the culprit. Had those replaced and 95% of the noise is gone.

Now I hear a low level "popping" sound (like a muffled thud) when slowly accelerating from a standstill (e.g. at a traffic light, stop sign, etc.). I feel it down under my left foot, so something's still going on down there. It almost feels like something is shifting when I accelerate. Sometimes when slowing to a stop I hear a similar, but more subtle, sound.

If it is as simple as me looking at the suspension subframe bolt (or bolts), I'd love some pics and/or guidance on how to get to any of the bolts that may be the issue, along with torque settings to verify. Will I need to jack it up and remove the wheel, or can I get it up on ramps to do it?
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  #16  
Old 06-15-2015, 09:32 AM
timarnold timarnold is offline
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Here is the drawing from REALOEM. The Item #2 bolts are torqued to 83 ft-lbs, the Item #4 bolts are torqued to 73 ft-lbs and the item #5 bolts are torqued to 53 ft-lbs.
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  #17  
Old 06-15-2015, 11:00 AM
phl08 phl08 is offline
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Is that drawing for an 08 E70 3.0? I found this similar one when punching in the last 7 digits of my VIN

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0789

Not sure which nuts I should be checking though.
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  #18  
Old 06-15-2015, 05:55 PM
timarnold timarnold is offline
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Not sure, but on the E70 I think the 6 Item#2's are the subframe mounting bolts. From the drawing it looks like they are hex headed rather than torx.
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  #19  
Old 06-27-2015, 05:51 AM
phl08 phl08 is offline
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The problem appears to be that the hole that item #9 on this drawing goes into. On my car, it's elongated and the cause is likely to be a combination of the bolt not being tight enough on a prior repair and moving back and forth with each start/stop of the vehicle.

However, that part is not on this diagram and I can't seem to find it on realoem.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0789

It is the part that is in this picture that the person is tigheting a bolt into.
http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_An0EkkwI6U/maxresdefault.jpg
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  #20  
Old 07-11-2015, 07:53 PM
panovic panovic is offline
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Just to add that I had the same symptoms. While checking the subframe bolts, I discovered that the reinforcement plate was not fastened enough (tourque value for its 4 bolts way less than the recommended value of 74 Nm). The noise and vibration were gone after proper fastening.
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  #21  
Old 07-13-2015, 04:41 AM
jdauria jdauria is offline
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I need to check this on mine. I get this weird noise whenever coming to a stop around 5 mph or so.
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