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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 11-24-2010, 06:36 PM
wolfen wolfen is offline
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When will all you non believers start using a Pella extractor, lol. Kit this kit that, lol, just use a vacuum and be done. Im baffled why people still bother changing it by draining.
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  #102  
Old 11-24-2010, 06:56 PM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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I'm baffled as to why anyone would keep a vacuum around their garage instead of standard tools required for other jobs.
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  #103  
Old 11-24-2010, 08:11 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_n00b13 View Post
standard tools required
I've screwed up vacuum extraction oil changes and I've screwed up gravity feed oil changes.

Personally, I prefer the gravity feed over the (Motive) vacuum extraction.

But, maybe that's because the Motive stinks compared to, say, the MightyVac or Pella. Dunno.

DETAILS:
- How to do a gravity feed oil change (1) & vacuum or drill extraction oil change (1) (2)
- How not to do a gravity feed oil change (1) and how not to do a vacuum extraction oil change (1)
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  #104  
Old 12-07-2010, 08:00 AM
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energizedmortal energizedmortal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfen View Post
When will all you non believers start using a Pella extractor, lol. Kit this kit that, lol, just use a vacuum and be done. Im baffled why people still bother changing it by draining.
replacing drain bolt and washer did not solve the leak at the drain hole...welded the drain plug and hole- problem solved. And since i live in manhattan and don't have a personal garage, ramp or lift a mityvac has been ordered (despite reports that it is not compatible with synthetic oil, many have used it for years with no problems) im now in the extractor club...but may still drain from the oil sensor once every few years to see if any foreign objects drain even though the oil filter is supposed to take care of that

Last edited by energizedmortal; 12-07-2010 at 08:01 AM.
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  #105  
Old 12-07-2010, 08:13 AM
genuity genuity is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by energizedmortal View Post
welded the drain plug and hole- problem solved.
Did you use JB Weld or go for actual MIG or TIG welding?
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  #106  
Old 12-07-2010, 08:44 AM
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energizedmortal energizedmortal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genuity View Post
Did you use JB Weld or go for actual MIG or TIG welding?
JB weld
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  #107  
Old 01-28-2011, 07:19 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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By way of xref, there's yet another oil-pan stripped plug question over here:
- Oil Pan replace or fix? HELP NEEDED ASAP

The funny thing is that ALL the questions so far in that thread are re-hashed questions that are covered in the reference links in gory detail:
- How to fix broken or stripped oil drain pan plug bolt threads (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) & replacing the oil pan & BMW E39 oil pan gasket DIY (1)

I guess that's how forums work. I'd like to see the OPs reading the reference threads, and then, if there's ADDED VALUE, then asking their questions.

Anyway, this is just a cross reference to the oil-pan stripped drain plug dilemma many of us encounter.

In that thread, CN90 kindly provides this helpful information:
Now if the oil pan threads are bad (I doubt it), then:
a. Consider an oversized plug as mentioned above.
b. If you ever get to Timesert or Helicoil stage, leave this job for a pro. It is not hard but needs to be done correctly. Someone scares you about "...steel shavings inside the oil pan..." but it is not that scary. The key thing when doing Timesert is:
- Tap and die using lubricating oil and back out the tap frequently so metal shavings are removed periodically, this way there is minimal fragment inside the sump.
- At the very end, insert a small suction tube and suck out all metal fragments.
- Then slightly close the drain plug (do NOT tighten it), pour may be 2 quarts in the engine, then remove the plug, the initial gush will push the metal fragments out.
Repeat this 2 x and the sump should be free of fragments.
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  #108  
Old 04-13-2011, 04:07 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
The dipstick O-rings in my car are still original.

But for the sake of simplicity, at 90 cents/each, replace all 4 tiny O-rings you mentioned (2 on oil filter cap and 2 on dipstick) every 5-6yr/50-60K.
Here, for the record, are the values and part numbers for the dipstick guide tube and dipstick o-rings:



Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
The O-ring at the very bottom of the dipstick housing: leave it alone until you do the CCV job.
For those contemplating the CCV job, we have a new comprehensive summary:
- How to test the BMW E39 pressure-controlled crankcase ventilation system (CCV)?

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  #109  
Old 06-07-2011, 11:00 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Someone asked today what model Mann filter to purchase ...
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > mann oil filters.

... so I dug up these self-explanatory pictures of mine from the following threads which should be generally useful to others:
- Cn90 How to change your oil; and Bluebee how NOT to change your oil!
- How to do a gravity feed oil change (1) & vacuum or drill extraction oil change (1) (2)
- How not to do a gravity feed oil change (1) and how not to do a vacuum extraction oil change (1)

(I've never bought the Mahle filters so if you have a picture of the right one, please add it to this thread for others to benefit.)


Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
925 = 6-cylinder engine
938 = V8 engine

Last edited by bluebee; 06-08-2011 at 02:03 PM.
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  #110  
Old 10-05-2011, 05:37 AM
mitrunhe mitrunhe is offline
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Thank you for this thread and all the valuable information in it!

Hi y'all! This is my first post here. I just had to register to thank bluebee and others for posting this valuable information here.

Just yesterday I was doing some maintenance on my 1991 E34 525i, and when I was unscrewing the oil sump drain plug, it snapped in half (much like in bluebee's pics). You can imagine how I felt at that moment.

However, I spent last night Googling for solutions and stumbled on this thread. Thanks to bluebee's encouraging results with the EX-4 screw remover, I went and bought a similar tool today, and voilą: I just managed to unscrew the remaining half of the drain plug and extract it in one piece. It seems that the threads stayed intact, so now I'm only waiting for a replacement drain plug I ordered.

So, thank you again. If not for this thread and a few other similar ones, I would have probably taken the car to a shop and ended up paying a fortune, whereas now I only paid some 25$ for the screw removal tool set.
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  #111  
Old 10-05-2011, 07:55 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitrunhe View Post
Hi y'all! This is my first post here. I just had to register to thank bluebee and others for posting this valuable information here.

Just yesterday I was doing some maintenance on my 1991 E34 525i, and when I was unscrewing the oil sump drain plug, it snapped in half (much like in bluebee's pics). You can imagine how I felt at that moment.

However, I spent last night Googling for solutions and stumbled on this thread. Thanks to bluebee's encouraging results with the EX-4 screw remover, I went and bought a similar tool today, and voilą: I just managed to unscrew the remaining half of the drain plug and extract in one piece. It seems that the threads stayed intact, so now I'm only waiting for a replacement drain plug I ordered.

So, thank you again. If not for this thread and similar, I would have probably taken the car to a shop and ended up paying fortunes, whereas now I only paid some 25$ for the screw removal tool set.
Welcome to forum,

I have learned this the hard way over the years.

Now for every car I have at home, I always go to dealer (it does not matter if it is a BMW, Toyota, Honda, or Volvo etc.) and buy a spare drain plug and store it in the glovebox to save you time/hassle later.

For small parts like this, local dealer is the best resource because if you order online + shipping, it is more expensive than a trip to local dealer.

Personally, I think you should have ordered 2 plugs, one to fix the current problem and one for the glovebox. I pay $6/each at local dealer.
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  #112  
Old 10-05-2011, 09:23 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitrunhe View Post
I spent last night Googling for solutions and stumbled on this thread ... EX-4 screw remover... so now I'm only waiting for a replacement drain plug I ordered
Thanks for recognizing the value, even of a how-not-to thread. Your kind post makes it all worth while.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
buy a spare drain plug and store it in the glovebox to save you time/hassle later
I just realized, after reading cn90's sage advice, that we don't have the recommended parts list for oil changes in the recommended-parts-list thread.

So, to add value, I just updated that as shown below.
- Recommended parts kits for overhauling cooling, drive belts, CCV/ICV, VANOS, OFH, PSP

REQUEST: PLEASE ADD V8 part numbers & sizes where they differ from the I6! Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Along the line of a complete parts list, how does this look for changing your I6 M54 engine oil?
  • Oil filter (Mann HU925, Mahle, Hengst E106H D34, or BMW P/N 11427512300)
  • Oil filter cap O-ring (91x4mm) <-- often comes with the filter
  • Oil drain plug copper crush washer (A12X17-CU, BMW P/N 07119963151) <-- often comes with the oil filter
  • Hollow oil pan drain bolt (M12x1.5x18, BMW P/N 11131273093) <-- different (solid) bolt for the V8 (what is the PN & size?) <-- BTW, order two!
  • Two oil filter stem o-rings (7x2.5, BMW P/N 11421744001) <-- replace every five years or so
  • Two dipstick handle o-rings (9x2.2, BMW P/N 11431717666)<-- replace every five years or so
  • 6.9 quarts of motor oil for the I6, 8 quarts for the V8 (BMW LL 2001-approved or equivalent)
Note: At the same time you change your oil, some recommend you suction out about 8 ounces (250 ml) of the power steering fluid and replace with Dexron III (realistically Dexron VI) ATF:
- Recommendation to replace power steering fluid at every oil change & periodically clean the PSF filter (1)

So, another related parts list could be:
  • Dexron VI ATF (buy 1 quart)
  • T20 Torx driver (to loosen the filter screen)
  • Power steering fluid reservoir cap o-ring (BMW PN 32 41 1 128 333)
  • Power steering hose clamps <-- often you cut off the old clamps, and a half-inch of hose & reclamp to fix leaks <-- what size are they?
NOTE: Pictures are from this thread...


Last edited by bluebee; 10-05-2011 at 09:28 AM.
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  #113  
Old 10-09-2011, 01:32 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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In keeping with the pictorial nature of this HOW NOT TO thread, cn90 posted to the following links a wonderful assessment:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > DIY: E39 Changing engine oil made simple (how to do it in 30 minutes and not crying!)
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil filter purchase at NAPA

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I have both Mahle and Mann Oil Filters (for 6-cylinder E39) at home.
So I took some photos, you can see that Mahle has a plastic rings at the top and bottom.
Just slight difference in design, no big deal.

As long as you stay away from Man counterfeit, then you are fine with Mann.
On the other hand, if you are worried about Mann counterfeit, go with Mahle.

Here is the photo showing the difference between Mahle (Made in Austria) vs Mann (Made in Mexico):


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  #114  
Old 10-12-2011, 12:13 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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In keeping with the pictorial nature of this thread ...

Saint Q just posted over in this thread today a nice picture of the oil level:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil level check

Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
Oil fill doesn't really require an "absolute correct level". All that is requires is that the oil is above the MIN level and below the MAX level.
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  #115  
Old 10-26-2011, 06:38 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, there is another I6 broken oil pan bolt today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Idiot tries to change oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poucan127 View Post
couldn't think of more of a clever title.

i just drained my oil and im getting ready to put the bolt on. I hear a little crack and now the bolt seems to be spinning and not loosening or getting any tighter. i've had a long day this tops the cake.

before i start banging it in and laughing like a madman while doing so, any suggestions?


also its too far in to ply it out.
The following was suggested, containing all the links one may need:

- How to fix broken or stripped oil drain pan plug bolt threads (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) & examples of an E39 M5 oil pan helicoil repair (1) & an E39 M5 timesert repair (1).
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  #116  
Old 05-25-2012, 01:29 PM
NCJunglist NCJunglist is offline
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Really - how much have you saved DIY folks - doesn't seem like its worth it. It's not your Dad's Chevy - it's a BMW so let a technician do it.
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  #117  
Old 10-18-2012, 11:04 AM
josemedeiros007 josemedeiros007 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Ooops. I stand corrected. Thanks. It's only a 1/8ths turn, which isn't all that much. Do you think we should gauge, as we're turning, the squishing of the crush washer?

BTW, I still have a bunch of questions about a "proper" oil change (you know, the kind that are in your wonderful DIYs where nothing ever goes wrong!)

If we can pool our knowledge by answering the myriad of questions, that would be a benefit to us all.

For example, I found the STP paper flutes failed such that there was a visible tear clear through the paper filter at the rather wide seam.

Looking closely, I noticed the Mann and Fram don't have visible seams like the STP filter does. Everyone talks trash about the rubber in the STP (again the Fram and Mann don't have that rubber end cap) ... but nobody yet (to my knowledge) has mentioned to avoid any filter with a visible seam.

My question:
Do you agree with my (new) assessment that we should outright reject any filter that has a visible weak point such as can be seen below?

Also ...
The $18 Fram 8081 looks identical to the $6 Mann filter (afaik) - what do you guys think of the Fram (locally available in an emergency)?

(That oil filter, btw, cost me something like $18 ... so it proves, yet again, you never get what you pay for.)


I have used Fram Oil Filters on my E39, K&N Oil Filters and Mobile 1 oil filters on my E39. Fram is not a bad oil filter but you are probably right that it needs to be changed after 7,500 miles, in Northern California Fram Oil filters are usually about $12.00 at Autozone, Oriely AutoParts and Napa stores when not on sale. In my opinion the Napa Platinum filter with a synthetic filter element will probably last the longest for extended oil change intervals, although I have not actually used one yet. Amsoil does not have an EA oil filter for my E39 and recommends MANN, which sells for $9.00 at Napa.
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  #118  
Old 01-11-2013, 05:42 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This question today is relevant for this threads has we want to know what NOT to do when replacing these two o-rings:

Quote:
Originally Posted by barneyhyphen View Post
Interested in any input as to sizes and material (Buna, Viton?) of the two small green "O" rings on the end of the oil filter cap center post.

Realoem seems to report them both as 7mm x 2.50mm HOWEVER, when removed, they appear to be different sizes?

Very end one looks like 7 x 2.5 but the one further up the center post looks larger and a little thicker.....maybe 8 x 3? I'm reading this as ID x CS, correct?
RDL reported BMW recommends the o-rings be changed every oil change.
EDIT:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
FWIW, BMW recommends changing these O-rings every oil change.

Attachment 357163

RealOEM says the part # is 11 42 1 744 001, at least for my M54. Top and bottom are identical size - at least when then are new. Check RealOEM for your car to be sure that there isn't a difference between engines. Cost is ~$0.40 to $0.75 from internet suppliers for BMW branded. Probably less from an industrial supply house for the same size.

I've seen them listed by BMW dealers with internet sites, EAC turning, BimmerSpecialist and eEuro. Likley many others too. Try the part # in
http://www.furiousmethod.com/
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
My cap cracked after 12y, P.O. tightened it too much.
I broke the cap when I opened it.
New cap is $28 at dealer and you get new tiny O-rings.

PS: I personally think the O-rings should be changed every 6-7y, not every oil change.
The O-rings on my cap are now 7 years old, zero problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
I suspect you're right about that. Probably the engineers figured if they specified say every 10 oil changes, it would never be done.

I changed mine and the cost of the O-rings is nothing compared to the effort prying the slimy little buggers up, off and over without breaking or scratching grooves/seats. It didn't seem to me that the old O-rings (age unknown but probably original from the factory) were damaged or deformed. But since they seal an oil circuit it was worth it for the peace of mind.
I guess I'll change them every couple of years, mostly because I bought what now appears to be a semi-lifetime supply.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeichen311 View Post
Having done this on several occasions--including just two weeks ago--I can offer a tip.

With your thumb and forefinger near the edges of a shop towel or sturdy paper towel, pinch/press opposite sides of the O-ring hard against the cap post. Then squeeze toward the side away from your hand, distorting the O-ring into an egg-shaped profile. Use needle-nose pliers to grasp the ring at the point of the egg, where it is pushed away from the post, and stretch it off. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.

BMW has started supplying these rings as part of some oil sets (filter, cap seal, post seal, crush washer). I struggled with the first, thought of the shop towel to gain the needed friction and now I can pop 'em off in ten seconds. You could also use diagonal cutters instead of pliers and just snip them off, too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve530 View Post
I used a pick with a 90 turn at the end and just walked them off.

The 11 year old O-rings were a little hardened, but they were probably serviceable.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 01-11-2013 at 07:52 PM.
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  #119  
Old 01-22-2013, 11:59 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I was looking up all the o-rings for this thread:
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Let's create a list of o-rings (by size & by part number) to buy when ordering parts

Yet I hadn't realized we had listed the proper o-rings (for an oil change anyway) here in this thread already.

Anyway, the parts list for an oil change is shown below, should it be needed in the future:

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
  • Two small o-rings on the bottom of the oil filter stem
  • Two small o-rings at the top of the oil dipstick,
    • 11431717666, 9mm ID x2.2mm Thick (Quantity=2) $0.73 each
  • Large o-ring on oil filter cap (usually comes with the oil filter)
  • Large o-ring at the bottom of the dipstick guide tube
    • 11431740045, 19.5mm ID x3mm Thick (Quantity=1) $1.81 each
  • Power steering cap o-ring
  • Oil filter housing oddly shaped gasket

Photo below is from this thread.
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 01-23-2013 at 05:22 AM.
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  #120  
Old 02-01-2013, 05:37 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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In this E46 M54 thread today, apparently the stem broke off keeping oil in the oil filter canister:

Quote:
Originally Posted by = View Post
As you surmised, we have discussed the purpose of those o-rings (and the tip specifically), and have come to the conclusion that the stem keeps the oil INSIDE the housing (for startup purposes):
- How to properly change the oil in the I6 engine (1) & how NOT to change it (1)

Patent 5,516,425


Of course, if the stem is broken off, then it will STILL keep the oil in the filter housing, so, that's the very first thing I would check.

Here's a picture from that thread showing the stem in my M54 (ignore the captions as we've found out all the o-ring sizes by now):
Quote:
A spin-on oil filter can be mounted in an easily accessible position on an engine by means of an oil filter housing comprising a lower housing unit, which comprises an open-topped chamber, and an upper housing unit. A male threaded portion, adapted to mount a spin-on oil filter, extends up from the bottom surface of the lower housing unit. A flat gasket sealing surface is located on the bottom surface, wherein the gasket surface is perpendicular with the male threaded portion. The housing comprises three passages: (i) a first passage adapted to permit flow of dirty oil to an oil filter mounted on the male threaded portion; (ii) a second passage adapted to permit flow of filtered oil away from an oil filter mounted on the male threaded portion; and, (iii) a third passage adapted to permit drainage of oil from the open-topped chamber. The upper housing unit is removably attached to the lower housing unit, and is adapted to cover the open-topped chamber. Methods of maintaining the filter and of adding refill oil are facilitated by this housing.
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Last edited by bluebee; 02-01-2013 at 05:47 PM.
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  #121  
Old 03-27-2013, 12:52 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Yet more ways NOT to change your oil are discussed here today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredat44 View Post
2001 530i
I-6

Going to change my oil later today. I already picked up 7 quarts of Castrol Edge Synthetic. Plus a new Fram oil filter.

My question is, the oil filter looks like it is squeezed in tightly between the Power steering reservoir, the plastic engine cover, over the intake, next to valve covers, and a rubber hose.
It looks like the back of the oil filter cover is either touching or a hair under some of those parts. After I drain the oil, and take the 36mm filter socket, and unscrew it, will it lift straight up, or will I have to do some dance or remove any other items, or tweak them over a bit.... and to put the filter in and cover back on,, same things,, easy or pain?

I am not new to engine work, just my first BMW oil change..

I cannot absolutely be sure of the exact date of the last oil change, because I bought the car used. If I went by color I would say it's time, but for all I know it still has time, but I would rather be safe and do the oil and filter change now. It already has new air filters.
It runs really good.

Thanx for info and tips. yes, I know it is probably already in some FAQ, but I thought my question is a bit more specific because of the filter location, squeezed in close with things 'almost' over the back side....

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Two things:

1. Return that Fram filter. Use only BMW, Mann or Mahle. Nothing else!

2. Read this DIY:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=459141




Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Has this happened to anyone else?

I had to destroy the old oil filter in order to get it off the filter housing cap. It had been on only for a few months but it seemed stuck like it was glued on permanently.

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  #122  
Old 04-07-2013, 01:45 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, there was a discussion about which oil filter to use over here today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by YinD View Post
So I go into autozone to get my Mobil 1 oil for the BMW. The guy tells me that with the 8 qt s I get a free oil filter!

So I ask him what does he have?
"Let's see we have STP in stock"
Whatever! I tell him! You can't give that brand away! Keep it!
Not going to roll that dice.
It was Funny to see the sales guys expression. Somewhat surprised but then understood.
Anyhow, thought I would share the experience.
To which, I had responded (for the record):

I've learned, over time, what to look for in (any brand) of oil filter - but - when I was (not much) younger and dumber (aka before I joined bimmerfest) - I bought both Fram & STP oil filters!

Here, for example, was my very first BMW oil filter change:

When I wrote the obligatory DIY, people corrected me immediately, on my choice of oil filter brands:


Over time, I learned WHY you don't want the STP oil filter:

The seam and the rubber mounting are, shall we say, problematic in our bimmers:

And, soon thereafter, I learned why you also don't want Fram oil filters.

Soon, I learned that most use Mann filters, so I picked up a bunch (don't worry about the oil choice, for now, as this is just about the filter).

While I chose Mann, many use Mahle:

And, some use Hengst:

You can even get other brands for your bimmer, such as Mobil 1 oil filters:

Or, Napa Platinum oil filters:

Or, Napa Pro One oil filters:

Or Fram ExtraGuard oil filters:

Or even PepBoys Purolater Classic oil filters:

But really, most of us use plain old Mann oil filters:

Of course, after having joined bimmerfest, now when I write an oil-change DIY, I use the suggested oil filter brands:


Note: Here's a basic parts list for an oil change:
- Oil filter & 91x4 O-ring & copper crush washer (Mann, Mahle, Hengst, or BMW P/N 11427512300)
- (1) oil pan drain bolt (M12x1.5x18, BMW P/N 11131273093)
- (1) extra copper crush washer (A12X17-CU, BMW P/N 07119963151)
- (2) oil filter stem o-rings (7x2.5, BMW P/N 11421744001)
- (2) dipstick handle o-rings (9x2.2, BMW P/N 11431717666)

See also:
Cn90 How to change your oil; and Bluebee how NOT to change your oil! and A BMW E39 Oil & Filter Change (vacuum extraction method) DIY
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #123  
Old 08-04-2013, 03:53 PM
scpousnret scpousnret is offline
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Location: Florida
 
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Mein Auto: 2002 530i
ft lbs

I set my TWrench to 15 for both. never had a problem.
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  #124  
Old 09-11-2013, 09:15 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Just for the record, there is a discussion of the dipstick indents in this thread today:
- > E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil Dip Stick markings

Quote:
Originally Posted by niffel View Post
I had a bit of an issue while I was driving to work yesterday. I accelerated fairly quickly up to about 60 up a hill to pass a truck. At about that time, I noticed the oil light in the dash came on yellow. I've only had this car a few months, but this is the first time I've seen that. The light stayed yellow so I pulled off into the nearest gas station and checked the oil level. The level showed full. I restarted the engine, and the light was off. Drove the rest of the way to work, home that evening, and to work again today without issue. On the way in today, I did the same acceleration up the same hill again without issue.

I was looking at the PDF copy of my owners manual where they mention the oil low/high marks on the dip stick. The markings in the illustration don't seem to match the markings on my dip stick. I'm worried that I have the incorrect dip stick, and that I'm running my engine a little low on oil.

I've attached an image of the dip stick shown in the manual, and the one from my car. Does anyone know what the marking should look like?

My car:
2000 BMW 528i Wagon.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #125  
Old 09-12-2013, 11:37 AM
scpousnret scpousnret is offline
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Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 22
Mein Auto: 2002 530i
after I change my oil and put in 6.9-7.0
qts (per chart) I go for a few mile drive,
return home, let sit for 15 min and the
dipstick is reads at the min point, not max
and not even in the middle per the pics
above. Any thoughts? thank you.
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