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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Talk about the E83 BMW X3 in this forum!

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  #1  
Old 10-30-2013, 10:08 AM
DangermouseX3 DangermouseX3 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2007 X3
N52 gasket shopping – What do I need?

07 3.0si N52 with almost 80k on it. History unknown. Florida car.

OK, so I have a rough idle for about 20 second when cold, an SES light that comes on occasionally and a slight oil leak from somewhere at the top of the engine (and maybe more) so I want to take all the plastic cladding off and look at the inlet ducting for splits/tears etc. I see many post on here about gasket replacement so while I’m in there, it appears to be time to do a few of them. However, with people using different acronyms for the same thing I want to make sure I am getting the right stuff. (Part numbers taken from realOEM)

A. Rough Idle (and SES light – code P1434) points to air/vacuum leaks (or leak detection pump)– checking ducting for splits and replacing Intake manifold gasket. I don’t see an actual gasket on this drawing just item 4 (11617547242), which I presume I need 6 off?



B. Oil leak is most likely Oil Filter Housing gasket (OFHG) - 11427537293, but possibly VCG (Valve Cover gasket) 11127582245, although that is referred to as Cylinder Cover Gasket on real OEM. (Looking down between the gaps in the inlet manifold I can see clean oil on the engine)

The realOEM drawing doesn't look to be an N52 engine so I am not sure that the part number (item 2) is accurate.



C. Other “while you are in there” gaskets would be the throttle body gasket – 13547522361 and the injector seals? Also valvetronic actuator basket (11127552280), and while doing that I may as well do the spark plugs.

D. VANOS solenoid valves need cleaned in an initial attempt to clear up a crank position sensor code, so new o-rings for those too.

Am I correct in saying that the N52 doesn’t have a CCV/CVV – crank case ventilation valve?

So shopping list is:

1 x set of 6 Intake Manifold gaskets
1 x OFHG
1 x VCG
1 x throttle body gasket
1 x Valvetronic actuator gasket
2 x sets VANOS o-rings
6 x sets Injector Seals
6 x spark plugs

Missing anything?

This may not solve all the issues, but they need to be checked off before proceeding.
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  #2  
Old 10-30-2013, 12:37 PM
cagui1223's Avatar
cagui1223 cagui1223 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2007 BMW X3 3.0si [e83]
Sounds like you've got it all covered. I had an oil leak on the top of the engine on mine as well. Smell of burning oil was pretty strong. When it came down to checking the leak it turns out it was the valvetronic gasket ($32). Later on down the line I was changing the spark plugs and noticed oil in one of them so I changed out the valve cover gasket. No other oil leaks since.
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  #3  
Old 10-30-2013, 01:57 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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Location: New Orleans
 
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Mein Auto: X3 and 330
N52 tips

idle contrl valve gasket .....its like a plasticky gland but can harden/crack/leak....also clean/exercise your ICV while out
oil filler cap rubber gasket....or new cap ~10 bucks
found some tiny button neodym magnets at H depot I put in bottom of sockets to ensure fastener doesn't get lost.....do this for your manifold nuts at the very least
there are TWO DISA things ....one smaller one tucked under blind/underside of manifold ......other on outside.....check operation of both when you remove inlet manifold
the plastic valve cover will simply pop off the four grommets over posts so no need to remove the torx screws holding cover to frame....pop frame and cover assemblage together
get some extra or a full set of alu valve cover bolts .... a known failure mode is sheared bolts....an easy fix and easy to get cracked remains of alu bolts out.....happens mostly forward by vanos stuff....the magnetic socket trick won't work on the alu fasteners but you can jam them in the socket with a sliver of foil or plastic.....might be handy for the rear most bolts that go in nearly blind
variable valve motor gasket....think you have it covered already
oil tower gasket ....~ 5 bucks and 300 labor at the dealer quoted recently !.....probably cause of where you see oil leak between inlet manifold runs....tower also has some small hose runs it would be good to have handy.......just a few inches and small clips
when you put tower back ensure banjo fittings on vanos hose are secure.....some folks do a new hose and alu washers
a few fuel injector spring clips cause they can spring to odd places ....cost cents
vacuum hose 3/5/7 mil etc for short runs of perished hoses
remember the injector clips only need cocking over on one side to effect a release
on our N52 the CCV system (pipes plus the valve/separator) is heat traced ....small connectors ....fiddly but easily done ...... recommend full replacement of CCV hoses and valve etc....no dipstick I think so don't need that O ring...the oil return to sump hose is a push me pull you connector ......practice with a new one before you mount it .....a bit of a reverse conundrum but very effective slip on pipe fit
take pics of your starter connections and fairlead some elec cable from the solenoid terminals so you can check them down the road
if you can't set these small cables up just mark the terminals with fluo marker and make a note of the terminal colors and nos now so you can trouble shoot any starter/solenoid problems with good knowledge and extended probes
I would replace the starter if you feel flush
do y'all have the small tool to spring the quick release on the fuel line ????
USERET put on a tool site that sells them in one of his posts ....check his posts ....loads of top notch info from USERET
clean rear of alternator ....it gets mucky....nice dose of ICV/MAF cleaner will do it
check your hoses on the power steering reservoir runs....loose oerticker clips or leaking best to reclip and or replace hoses
check your O2 sensors cables for fretting ...a known weak spot
pull both banks O2 sensors and do a visual....easy when the valve cover is off
a nice long bristle soft paint brush for dusting off around the injectors
some injector soaker or a home made rig to flow/clean test them .....great fun to make

Last edited by swampX3; 10-30-2013 at 02:53 PM.
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  #4  
Old 10-30-2013, 03:28 PM
DangermouseX3 DangermouseX3 is offline
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Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 2007 X3
Thanks.

A couple of new terms in there Swamp

DISA? Help me out there

Oil tower gasket - is that the oil filter housing gasket OFGH?

I thought that I read somewhere that the N52 doesn't have a CCV - I guess it has. Where is it located?

Idle control Valve - again, where is it located?

This is my inaugural foray into the engine bay, so I don't want to take on too much. Mostly inspections and see if I need to buy other parts.
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  #5  
Old 10-30-2013, 03:48 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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Location: New Orleans
 
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Mein Auto: X3 and 330
N52 tips

DISA ....that's a device that controls the length of the inlet manifold for optimum inlet air flow and turbulence management .....darned clever but can fail .....a simple electric driven actuated flapper on the N52 ....no vac lines like older engines......you'll see the image of the two DISA's in yalls REAOEM pics.....check out youtube for simple test procedure....or just put 12 v on it and check it for good flapping/return / seal ok.....remember you have TWO DISAS

http://germanautosolutions.com/bmw_s...repair_kit.php


oil tower / filter housing is same thingy ......is the thingy that the filter / power steering pump etc sits on ....a simple 5 bucks gasket hardens and fails leading to leaks blowing aft along the engine block......follow these tips from another BMW but similar to your protective job from YT
remove oil filler cap to minimize oil mess when replacing gasket.....or at least pop the filter up to let most of the oil drain down out of the housing ....have a drain pan ready underneath also

the CCV hangs from under the inner DISA under the inside of the intake manifold.......if you are low on bucks be very careful not to crack any CCV hoses if you remove the manifold .....very hard to do because they get a bit like egg shells after several years .....a leading culprit of lean codes and oil leaks from the small valve and separator the hoses attach to

idle contrl valve is tucked up by the throttle body .......you'll see it when you pull the intake boot that connects from the MAF to the throttle body .....it's a simple mini elec motor scroll device to meter idle air .....gets carboned up but is easy to clean and exercise....MAF spray is good for cleanup.....also use a kinda stiffish little bottle brush for port polishing

also ....remember to ask for a valve cover kit that contains both the metallic outer perimeter gasket and the rubbery seals like the olympic symbols that seal off the spark plug holes

Last edited by swampX3; 10-30-2013 at 04:14 PM.
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