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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 01-24-2011, 07:55 PM
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Edgy36-39 Edgy36-39 is offline
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Oh no, it's in the manual!? My head hangs in shame...

Will report on most accurate method. BTW sorry for late reply, my email notification isn't working for additions to subscribed threads. Happening to anyone else?
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  #52  
Old 01-24-2011, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgy36-39 View Post
Will report on most accurate method.
Which temperature were you trying to change from C to F?
  • OBC ambient temperature reading
  • IHKA setting temperature
  • OBC KTMP reading
  • MID (is there a temp on the MID?)
  • ? other ?
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  #53  
Old 01-25-2011, 11:25 AM
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I hereby certify that that link 1, the post from Q, is the easiest way. At least for post-facelift E39s. Changed both the cluster temp (by the odometer) and the interior temp settings back to F. If there are other temp locations, I don't use them.

Oh, the shame.
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  #54  
Old 01-31-2011, 03:28 PM
calwilly1 calwilly1 is offline
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Can the oil pain drain plug be accessed without jacking up the car on a 01' 540i?

On my E34 I could access the drain plug and fit the drain pan underneath with no problem.
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  #55  
Old 03-28-2011, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calwilly1 View Post
Can the oil pain drain plug be accessed without jacking up the car on a 01' 540i?
I doubt it. Most of us drive the E39 onto ramps for the gravity drain method:
- How to make your own BMW car ramps (1)

If you don't wish to drive up on ramps, the vacuum extraction method words well:
- DIY - BMW E39 Oil & Filter Change (vacuum extraction method)

Except don't get the Motive (use the MityVac or similar):
- Brand new Motive Power Extractor does not work for E39 oil change


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  #56  
Old 03-28-2011, 05:35 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calwilly1 View Post
Can the oil pain drain plug be accessed without jacking up the car on a 01' 540i?
Not really, unless you are 10 years old LOL.

Best is to build the wood ramps as I mentioned in the first thread and you simply drive the car up the ramps, do the oil change, drive it down.
Simple like 1-2-3.
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  #57  
Old 03-28-2011, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
This is because the E39 is tricky to prime so the BMW tech does not want to go the extra mile to do it.

All gasoline cars operate the same way when it comes to engine oil lubrication: the issue of "dry start", whether we think it is important or not, is always there after an oil change.
+1
I always drop a 1/2 quart into the filter housing
old engine , new engine ,- all need oil

Last edited by champaign777; 03-28-2011 at 05:53 PM.
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  #58  
Old 04-14-2011, 12:27 PM
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Doru, today, suggested a cultural improvement to our 'typical' oil change that I will do on my very next one.
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Steering gets difficult around 3500rpm!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
every time I change the oil, I pump out as much as I can the power steering ATF and replace with fresh fluid. The fluid looks nice pink in my system since then. Granted, it's not a flush etc, but it beats leaving the old burned fluid in. And pulling out about 1/2 qt twice a year, I believe it helped.

Last edited by bluebee; 04-14-2011 at 10:20 PM.
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  #59  
Old 06-07-2011, 11:58 PM
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Someone asked today what model Mann filter to purchase ...
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > mann oil filters.

... so I dug up these self-explanatory pictures of mine from the following threads which should be generally useful to others:
- Cn90 How to change your oil; and Bluebee how NOT to change your oil!
- How to do a gravity feed oil change (1) & vacuum or drill extraction oil change (1) (2)
- How not to do a gravity feed oil change (1) and how not to do a vacuum extraction oil change (1)

(I've never bought the Mahle filters so if you have a picture of the right one, please add it to this thread for others to benefit.)


Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
925 = 6-cylinder engine
938 = V8 engine


Last edited by bluebee; 06-08-2011 at 03:04 PM.
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  #60  
Old 08-04-2011, 05:50 PM
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For the cross linked record, someone, with a flickering oil light, removed their oil filter today, and, apparently the entire center section was missing!
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil Pressure light flickers on while idlying

Quote:
Originally Posted by riskydnb View Post
*update - took off oil filter cap and the whole center piece is missing, this should solve problem. thx
I asked them to snap a picture of that ... here's a pic of my intact center section, by way of comparison:

- How to do a gravity feed oil change (1) & vacuum or drill extraction oil change (1) (2)
- How not to do a gravity feed oil change (1) and how not to do a vacuum extraction oil change (1)

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  #61  
Old 08-04-2011, 09:18 PM
sealbeach740 sealbeach740 is offline
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Since this post has been brought back to life, I have a question about priming the oil filter.

Since the oil filter is mounted above the engine, how does priming the oil filter help with cold starting an engine? The oil in the filter would have to be pumped down to the engine (where the rest of freshly changed oil is sitting in the oil pan), and then drawn into the engine.

I'm not saying you shouldn't prime the filter with oil, I just don't really see what the advantage is. Our BMWs are a bit different than other cars in how the oil is pumped into the oil filter chamber & forced back to the engine pan. Since the oil ends up in the oil pan anyways, what am I missing?
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  #62  
Old 08-05-2011, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealbeach740 View Post
Since this post has been brought back to life
Just for the record, this is the 'canonical' thread for how to change your oil using the gravity method ... so ... by virtue of that nomination ... it will consistently be the one thread we 'append' useful information to for ease of reference in the future, by others, long after we're gone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sealbeach740 View Post
how does priming the oil filter help with cold starting an engine?
Good question.

BTW, in a somewhat related aside, cn90 posted such useful information today in the aforementioned oil-pressure thread (E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil Pressure light flickers on while idlying), that I just have to repost it here for posterity:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
1+,

Some mechanics are basically hack mechanics. The thing breaks and they just move on = not good!

To illustrate this fact, I redraw the Oil Filter Cap.
The 2 tiny O-rings' sole purpose: when you change the Engine Oil, the Oil is drained down the Oil Pan to be drained out and disposed of.

When the engine is running, these 2 tiny O-rings prevent oil from being pumped back to the Oil Pan. So when this tip (with the 2 tiny O-rings) is missing, some oil is pumped into the Oil Pan, thus "low oil pressure" light on dash during idle rpm.

At higher rpm, there is more oil pressure, enough to extinguish the light in the dash, but might not be enough for proper engine lubrication.






--------------

PS: This is hypothetical but I will try to be as close to the numbers as possible.
- Usually the oil pressure light goes out when the pressure is above 8psi or so.
- OK, your Oil Cap Tip is gone, when you rev the engine to 2500 rpm, oil pressure is let's say 15 psi (instead of 30 psi), enough to turn the dash light off.
But the engine is designed such that at 2500 rpm, it needs around 30 psi for proper lubrication.
So at 15 psi, you risk engine damage.

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  #63  
Old 08-05-2011, 03:10 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealbeach740 View Post
...Since the oil filter is mounted above the engine, how does priming the oil filter help with cold starting an engine? The oil in the filter would have to be pumped down to the engine (where the rest of freshly changed oil is sitting in the oil pan), and then drawn into the engine.
Priming oil prior to install is just an option, not absolutely needed but the enthusiasts do it regardless of cars.

Conceptually the BMW engine is no different than a Volvo or Honda engine. All oil must be pumped to cam and crank areas, regardless of where the oil filter is located.

To answer your question, you really have to open an M52 or M54 engine to appreciate the lubrication passages. If you ever replace the OFH gasket, you will see some of the oil passages.
The oil is NOT pumped down to the engine pan per se.

The oil is initially pumped to feed the cam lifters and crankshaft bearings, then it will eventually drip down to the oil pan. So it has to go through the cam and crank areas first.

Last edited by cn90; 08-05-2011 at 03:12 PM.
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  #64  
Old 08-06-2011, 05:56 PM
NNY528i NNY528i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Priming oil prior to install is just an option, not absolutely needed but the enthusiasts do it regardless of cars.

Conceptually the BMW engine is no different than a Volvo or Honda engine. All oil must be pumped to cam and crank areas, regardless of where the oil filter is located.

To answer your question, you really have to open an M52 or M54 engine to appreciate the lubrication passages. If you ever replace the OFH gasket, you will see some of the oil passages.
The oil is NOT pumped down to the engine pan per se.

The oil is initially pumped to feed the cam lifters and crankshaft bearings, then it will eventually drip down to the oil pan. So it has to go through the cam and crank areas first.
FWIW Caterpillar, one of the leading makers of Diesel engines which are designed to run for more than a Million miles Specifically and expressly states that their canister type oil filters are not to be filled with oil(ie primed) when installed. They require this to ensure that no unfiltered oil is ever permitted downstream of the filter element. The BMW filter housing was designed specifically to drain all oil from the housing on element change to ensure no unfiltered oil is present inside or downstream of the filter element. Priming the filter on these engines is of no use or value.
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  #65  
Old 08-07-2011, 08:06 PM
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This vid covers much what has already been said - the newspaper is a twist that I have never used. Maybe a rag around the filler only.
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  #66  
Old 09-06-2011, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dms540i View Post
Are the pins the same for all builds in this connector? Or is this trial and error? What I mean is are there differing wiring harnesses in different builds using this same connector? Don't know but it makes me more than a little nervous just sticking in wires.
I know this question was asked over a year ago...but I didn't see if anyone answered it.

It's quite simple...even if all the pins are not used (in the DLC) in which ever model you have...they are still all numbered the same (look closely and you will see that each hole has a number)...and pins #7 & #19 are universally used in all models for resetting the SI lights because BMW doesn't want to use more than one tool to reset the SI light on all the different models that use the 20 pin DLC. The BMW techs use the same reset tool on all BMWs that have this DLC in the engine bay.

Again, the 20 pin DLC is numbered the same in every BMW that's had them from the late 80s up to 10/2000...some models may have more or less pins active...but regardless...the DLC is numbered the same:

(#1-#12 on the outer circumference & #13-#20 on the inner circle)


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Last edited by QSilver7; 09-06-2011 at 02:06 PM.
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  #67  
Old 10-09-2011, 09:52 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Just some fun and trivial facts, I have both Mahle and Mann Oil Filters (for 6-cylinder E39) at home.
So I took some photos, you can see that Mahle has a plastic rings at the top and bottom.
Just slight difference in design, no big deal.

As long as you stay away from Man counterfeit, then you are fine with Mann.
On the other hand, if you are worried about Mann counterfeit, go with Mahle.

Here is the photo showing the difference between Mahle (Made in Austria) vs Mann (Made in Mexico):


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  #68  
Old 10-09-2011, 03:14 PM
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How do you know if the Mann oil filter is counterfeit...?
Will it say made in Mexico on it?
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  #69  
Old 10-09-2011, 09:29 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
How do you know if the Mann oil filter is counterfeit...?
Will it say made in Mexico on it?
Mann Oil Filter has been made in Mexico for years. It is the good stuff.
The Mann filter I showed on the photo above is OEM stuff, not counter-feit.

The Mann counterfeit is made in China, see the posts by "bimmerteck" on how to verify the authenticity:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=565547

I am switching from Mann to Mahle in the near future.
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  #70  
Old 10-10-2011, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
see the posts by "bimmerteck" on how to verify the authenticity
To wit ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerteck View Post
I didn't realize that counterfeits even existed until I tried to buy a case of filters for my car from one of my FIL's Napa store's last spring. They had special ordered them for me and I went to pick them up and the boxes were way too flimsy. (I've been wrenching on european cars for 15 years now so I've had quite a few mann filters in my hands over the years) I opened one up and the filter could be easily crushed and the end was visually not sealed well. After talking to the manager of the store he did some digging and found that several different filters he had ordered through a new distributor were in fact counterfeit.
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  #71  
Old 11-13-2011, 05:53 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I just changed my oil.
I looked at the old Mann filter O-ring that I removed (has 5K miles on it). It looks good.
I cleaned the old O-ring, put in a ziploc bag and put it in the trunk as spare.
Never know you might need this O-ring!
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  #72  
Old 12-31-2011, 10:11 AM
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In search of continual honing of the saw (Stephen Covey stuff), this post today asks the esoteric question of whether to put the filter on the cap or the cap on the filter:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > oil filter replacement method

Quote:
Originally Posted by moots View Post
just wondering how you guys replace the oil filter.....do you place the filter in the oil filter housing and screw in the black cap or do you place the filter on the cap and then screw the cap together with the filter onto the housing.....?

i find it easier to do the latter as the filter,to me,slide into the housing easier,as such i fit the filter onto the cap (relatively stiffer) and THEN offer it to the housing....

i know it don't matter but then again.....
The answer came back, so far, overwhelmingly for the latter method over the former.
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  #73  
Old 12-31-2011, 04:24 PM
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Edgy36-39 Edgy36-39 is offline
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Getting ready for spring

Just watched that excellent video. Is everyone here replacing the copper washer on the drain plug? What's the size?
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  #74  
Old 01-01-2012, 09:29 AM
terrystu terrystu is offline
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Ed, I replace the copper washer with every OC. Don't know the size, but it comes with every filter I have ever purchased. Did you check the bottom of the box before you tossed it out? Really hoping I am not producing additional shame!
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  #75  
Old 02-16-2012, 05:11 PM
ferguscan ferguscan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
The slope created (maybe 2-3 degrees) by the wood ramps actually helps with the drainage since the drain bolt is located in the Rear of the Sump.
** I only wish this were true. I have drained oil from my E39 several times, with the front on jackstands. I have then lowered the car from the stands with the drain plug still removed. More oil comes out. Maybe one of your American pints. Maybe half that.

Did you have any luck raising one side only? Did you try a subsequent additional drain with the car flat, to see if any more comes out?

Thanks,

Stuart

Last edited by ferguscan; 02-16-2012 at 05:16 PM.
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