Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #51  
Old 07-13-2011, 06:48 PM
billj3cub billj3cub is offline
Registered User
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: 2002 M3
Ultimate test

I am doing a write up that I believe will answer all these questions but do one thing for me if you would. Remove your relay and run a jumper wire from the 12 volt Battery Service Terminal, found between engine intake runners 5 & 6, and the relay connector #30 then to #87 (NOT 87a, that is ground!) and tell me which one makes your pump motor run.
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 07-13-2011, 07:01 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,864
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Update,

I just opened the whole E-box and here is what I find. I think billj3cub is correct re CONNECTOR.

Now using the same diagram as in the 1st post (see pic below), these are the findings at the CONNECTOR (using the relay designation as a guide for CONNECTOR's pins 85, 86, 30, 87, and 87a):

* Jumper wire between 30 and 87 (not 87a): Air Pump runs full blast.
* #87 is HOT all the time, this is in contrast to the "Published Diagram"!
* #87a is Ground.
* #30 has no Voltage, presumably because it runs to the Air Pump.
* #85 and #86 same as in the pic below.

Anyway, for the 2 situations below, the Air Pump runs regardless of the setup. In other words, from the electrical stand point, it does not matter if the setup is a) or b).
(Actually it only confuses the troubleshooters, aka, tell the BMW engineers to stop eating bratwurst and drinking beer when designing the car LOL!).


a. The "Published Diagram"........................from battery ---> F107 ---> #30 ---> #87---> Air Pump
b. The "Real Life" as measured in the car.....from battery ---> F107 ---> #87 ---> #30---> Air Pump


Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 07-14-2011, 06:52 AM
540iman's Avatar
540iman 540iman is offline
resident, old fart
Location: N.W. Indiana
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,504
Mein Auto: 2002 540i sport
My pump runs when I jump between aux hot connection you asked and the heavy gauge yellow/blk wire. I think it is safe to assume that your customers car was wired properly from the factory. I am disregarding the numbers on the relay as they don't matter. The heavy red wire is hot all the time. The heavy yellow/blk wire is hot when the relay is picked up and shows continuity to ground when the relay drops out. What this tells me is that the pump in the switching contact in the relay which toggles between the hot red wire and ground. If your customers car is left to sit over night and the yellow/blk wire on the pump does not go hot, but the red wire to your relay is in fact hot, then your DME is bad or the relay coil is bad.

Last edited by 540iman; 07-14-2011 at 06:55 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 07-14-2011, 10:18 AM
billj3cub billj3cub is offline
Registered User
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: 2002 M3
This should some everything up

*(I wish we could delete all these posts about the relay and just have cn90's original post and these modified images so nobody has to slog through the looong discussion to reach this conclusion.)*

This is the pin-out for the Salmon colored Secondary Air Pump Relay (verify by actually looking at the diagram on the side of your relay. Note that the printed wiring diagram is correct except that numbers assigned for the Pump and Fuse f107 traces were originally mislabeled):

30 - PUMP; This is a heavy Black wire with Red strip and Yellow hash marks. Verify by running a jumper wire from thew 12v Battery Service Terminal located between engine intake runners 5 & 6 or just verify the pump operation by inserting a jumper between 30 and 87 (f107 - Hot with 12v all the time)

87 - FUSE f107; Heavy Red wire. 12 volt, hot all the time. Located under the carpet in front of the passenger seat.

87a - GROUND; Located at right front side of the engine compartment.

86 - FUSE f31; 12 volt when the ignition key is turned on. Located in the drop down fuse panel in the glove box.

85 - DME; Control Unit pulls this pin low which energizes the coil in the Secondary Air Pump Relay, switching pin 30 (pump) from 87a (ground) to 87 (f107, 12 volts) which powers the pump.

Even with cn90's instructions i do not get how to enlarge these thumbnail images into full size in the post. 'Eye given 'er all she's got Jim. I'm an (electrical) engineer, not a (html) magician!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Relay schematic.JPG
Views:	54332
Size:	71.2 KB
ID:	285042   Click image for larger version

Name:	Relay.JPG
Views:	163
Size:	137.0 KB
ID:	285043  
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 07-14-2011, 11:24 AM
540iman's Avatar
540iman 540iman is offline
resident, old fart
Location: N.W. Indiana
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,504
Mein Auto: 2002 540i sport
Good points all, but the numbers are just numbers and as long as anyone trying to trouble- shoot theirs verifies power at the relay, regardless of any numbers, from the heavy red wire then they know their fuse #107 is good. They need to know thay the heavy gauge black/ yellow/ Red wire which they will also plainly see at their pump is the switched lead of the relay which should connect to the heavy red on start-up and then the relay better drop out after about 1.5 minutes of running and that heavy gauge black/red/yellow wire will then go to ground. they can also measure aross the remaining two wires which are normal size 18 gauge wire and carry no more than an amp to trigger the coil of the relay then they UNDERSTAND what is happening and dont even need the scematic, the picture on the relay... whatever. If power is AT THE RELAY, but you never see power at the pump, you should jumper between the red Hot lead and the heavy black/red/yellow wire with a wire briefly and listen for the pump to run. Make sure you unplug relay from it's socket first as you could be putting power to the pump which the relay has put at ground potential. You will then blow fuse 107 for sure!. Removing the relay from its socket makes it easier to diagnose and jumper anyway. Then you can isolate your problem to the DME not telling the relay to close or the relay itself does not activate. Pull the relay cover off the relay body and plug it back in and you can visually see whether the relay moves when energized, how it is wired etc. The numbers don't really mean squat.

Last edited by 540iman; 07-14-2011 at 11:28 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 07-14-2011, 11:27 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,864
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Quote:
Originally Posted by billj3cub View Post
... I'm an (electrical) engineer...
Haha,

You are an electrical engineer turning into a BMW mechanic?

Last edited by cn90; 07-14-2011 at 11:29 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 07-21-2011, 11:59 PM
billj3cub billj3cub is offline
Registered User
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: 2002 M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
The numbers don't really mean squat.
Actually the numbers do mean something. All these posts should be thrown away, cn90's relay socket diagram should be corrected, and the miss-label on the printed wiring diagram should be noted.
Then there would not have been all this confusion and the original post would have given all the easily understandable information needed to troubleshoot the BMW Secondary Air System.
Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old 08-25-2011, 01:43 PM
krnash krnash is offline
Registered User
Location: nashville tn
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5
Mein Auto: 1997 528i
Wink

Thanks much, it worked like a charm !
Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old 12-13-2011, 06:53 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,864
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Does anyone know for sure which fuse controls the Small Electric Air Valve (mounted below Intake Manifold)?

The emission codes P1421 and P1423 are back:
- I disconnected the Large Hose at the Air Valve (mounted on the exhaust manifold).
With car cold, started engine, Air Pump ran fine, a lot of air came out of the large hose, so the Air Pump circuit is fine.
- Unplugged the small vacuum hose: no vacuum. Checked all vacuum hoses, including the ones under Intake Manifold, all is fine.
- Now I suspect the Small Electric Air Valve is bad; PN 11747537612, $42 online.

Before I order the Small Electric Air Valve, does anyone know for sure which fuse controls the Small Electric Air Valve (labeled as "Secondary Air Pump Valve" in the pic below)?
Seems like "Fuse 2" in the "Fuse Carrier, Engine Electronics" according to diagram:


Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old 12-22-2011, 02:42 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,279
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Does anyone know for sure which fuse controls the Small Electric Air Valve (mounted below Intake Manifold)?
I hope you get the answer you seek.

To better understand 'just' how the secondary air system works (without the embedded diagnostics & repair information), I just now opened this specific thread (borrowing liberally from cn90's descriptions & attachments above):

- Do we have a good description of how the BMW E39 Secondary Air System (SAS/SAP) works


Reply With Quote
  #61  
Old 12-22-2011, 05:56 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,864
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Until I figure out how to do a SAS Delete (an entirely different topic), I need to fix this SAS codes of P1421 and P1423. This may be the last time I spend money on this goofy SAS system. Enough ranting back to work.

------------

DIY: How to replace the Electrical Valve: PN 11747537612 (about $45 online for Pierburg brand).

Pic 1a: Parts: Air Valve as mentioned and OBD-II Code Reader ($25 on Amazon.com).

Pic 1b: With car cold on startup, Air Pump should run.
Best is to disconnect the large hose at the Exhaust Air Valve, a lot of air should come out during cold start (Yellow Arrow), if not either Pump is dead or Fuse #107 is blown (see the beginning of this thread).
In my case a lot of air comes out so I know the Air Pump is good.
But when checking the vacuum hose next to the Exhaust Air Valve, there is no vacuum, so I know the Electrical Valve is bad.
Time to replace the Electrical Valve.

Pic 1c and 1d: Remove the cosmetic cover (pry the round cover and remove the two 10-mm bolts).
Disconnect the PCV Hose by squeezing on the "wider" part of the Retaining Ring why rotating the hose to work it loose.




Now:

1. Disconnect the electrical connector.

2. Using a flat screw driver to gently pry between the valve and the metal bracket: lift the old valve upward to remove it.
Note:
* the "downward nipple" feeds the hose to the Exhaust Air Valve.
* the "side nipple" feeds to vacuum hose that goes to Intake Manifold.

This is perfect time to change new vacuum hose.

* Then erase codes.
* Do not forget to re-connect all hoses (vacuum, large hose to the Exhaust Air Valve, PCV hose etc.) before starting the car.

That is all boys and girls:

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	SAS01.JPG
Views:	4853
Size:	109.4 KB
ID:	305697   Click image for larger version

Name:	SAS02.JPG
Views:	5079
Size:	107.9 KB
ID:	305698  

Last edited by cn90; 12-23-2011 at 09:02 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #62  
Old 03-13-2012, 10:25 AM
llcoolj0n llcoolj0n is offline
Registered User
Location: Westminster
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: M3
Sorry to bring this thread back up, but I need some help.

Let's just say, I connected the new SAP in w/ the key off. It turns on by itself.
With or without relay. So I checked relay terminals.
87 = 12.2v
30 = 0
85 = 3.6v
86 = 12.2v << ?? ( from what I've researched, should only be powered with key on)
And I have 12V at the connector wire of SAP.

I'm sooo lost, Please help!!
Reply With Quote
  #63  
Old 03-13-2012, 11:42 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,864
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Your symptoms sound like a stuck relay causing the Air Pump to run all the time.
Are you sure you pull the correct relay to diagnose the problem?
Post a picture of the relay that you referred to.
Reply With Quote
  #64  
Old 03-16-2012, 05:32 PM
gtxragtop's Avatar
gtxragtop gtxragtop is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Mass
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 878
Mein Auto: 2003 530IA
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximeM View Post
Good day,

First of all, let me thank the editor of the DYI for an outstanding job. It has helped me a lot when I replaced the secondary air pump on my 2000 528i.

That being said, it is still not working. Here is what I have done.

1- The BWM dealer told me my pump was dead and needed to be replaced. So I replaced it with a new one. I also replace the air valve, and hose and the hose.
2- Since doing this did not help, I replaced fuse #107 and tested it. The new one works fine. It gets 12v and there is continuity through it.
3- Since my air pump was still not working, I had a look at the relay and measured voltage and resistance. Here are my findings:

- 87 was hot (12v) all the time
- 30 is not hot.
- 85 only had .1v with the key in position II
- resistance b/w 85-86 was 78 ohms (not sure if this is important).

So, if I understood your post correctly, there is something wrong with the connector. Or maybe it's before the connector.

Can anyone help?

Many thanks,

Max
Looking at C90's wiring diagram:

86 is +12 fused. Likely switched by key
85 goes to the control unit (DME) it provides the ground for the relay coil to engage the
relay to provide 12V to the SAS pump motor
87 provides the power to the pump motor when the relay is engaged
87a is GND to ground the pump motor once the relay is disengaged to stop the pump
motor running
30 is the 12V power feed for the pump motor.

Quick check:
Go to radio shack and pick up some 30 gauge wire used for electronics wiring. Strip about 3/4" off both ends with the wire being about 12" long. Remove the relay. Put bare wire into 87. Use a bit of tape to keep wire in place if needed. Install the relay. Turn on the key.
take a meter or better yet a 12V test light and check for 12V or the light shines bright. If either is true, the relay is working fine and the problem is beyond the relay towards the pump.
__________________
Ever wonder why 5 series electrical issues are common and complicated.. Spend time here and you will understand why. http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...9new/index.htm
Reply With Quote
  #65  
Old 03-16-2012, 09:51 PM
llcoolj0n llcoolj0n is offline
Registered User
Location: Westminster
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: M3
There are 3 relays I can see. A Salmon, light green, and sky blue. And I'm sure it was the salmon one that everyone has been talking about. But anyway, I pulled ALL 3 relays out and plugged in the new pump w/ keys out the ignition. Pump still turns on as soon as I plug it in.
Reply With Quote
  #66  
Old 03-16-2012, 10:13 PM
doru's Avatar
doru doru is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Calgary
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,491
Mein Auto: 2003 530iA
This SAP system is such a pain in the you know where once it start s failing. In order to keep everything tight, I replaced preventative the check valve and the salmon relay. But if the Pierburg pump will ever bite the dust, I know I will so find a delete solution for this.
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
Reply With Quote
  #67  
Old 06-03-2012, 03:51 AM
tarokyama tarokyama is offline
Registered User
Location: Honolulu, HI
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 21
Mein Auto: 2000 528i
Fuse panel under floor board

Hi, I'm new here, been trolling for a while though

Anyone know what the other fuses under floor board are for?

Im troubleshooting the famous driver seat and steering column not moving problem.
I've already eliminated the control box under the seat, as well as all the other fuses.

thanks
Reply With Quote
  #68  
Old 06-03-2012, 05:55 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,864
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Quote:
Originally Posted by tarokyama View Post
..I'm troubleshooting the famous driver seat and steering column not moving problem.
I've already eliminated the control box under the seat, as well as all the other fuses.

thanks
- Check Fuse #13 in glovebox.
- Also search forum for "driver side seat switch".
Reply With Quote
  #69  
Old 06-03-2012, 06:10 AM
tarokyama tarokyama is offline
Registered User
Location: Honolulu, HI
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 21
Mein Auto: 2000 528i
I've checked #13 and all the fuses except for the ones in the floor board.
and also have read over 50 threads on the switch, i checked my switch and its fine,
something else is the problem here.

(sorry didnt mean to jack the thread)
Reply With Quote
  #70  
Old 06-22-2012, 05:54 PM
gdharvey gdharvey is offline
Registered User
Location: PNW
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 34
Mein Auto: 01 530i SP
Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
There is a post out there involving a guy who found a substitute pump for the BMW Pierburg. It is a Pierburg from an Audi and he found a working unit in a junk yard for $17! Then, another poster found that this Audi Pierburg can be had NEW on Amazon for about $100. It is a direct fit except for the connector and this may be the biggest help I have ever seen. The Audi pump puts out as much air as ours and is 1/3 the cost!
any aditional info on using the Audi A4 Air/Smog Pump?? Prices I pull up vary from $94-$266 I believe depending on quality (scary). I can get one (oem bmw) from my local yard for $100 and $50 for the Air Vent at top. My question is that does both need replacing or can I just replace the air vent?? My symptoms is only the airplane whine at cold start for the short time then it shuts off. I don't get or have any codes so does that mean my pump has not deteriorated to failure yet and possibly I can get away w/buying the Air Vent to fix?? Or is the whine coming from the pump and it's actually the pump that needs replacing?? I think at this point, since they sound like parts that repeatedly fail, I'm inclined to just p/u and replace both from the yard. I still do welcome the info or updated insight. thx.

Last edited by gdharvey; 06-22-2012 at 06:07 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #71  
Old 09-04-2012, 09:47 PM
Guam135i Guam135i is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Guam
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 138
Mein Auto: 08 135i Coupe
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
DIY: Troubleshooting S.A.S. and How to Replace the Famous Fuse # 107!



7. Fuse Block has a total of 8 fuses. Fuse #107 is on the far Left. See picture:



8. To test the Fuse, use a Voltmeter (not Ohmmeter for now).

9. Note the Large Red Feed Cable side, it feeds power to the electrical block where it branches out. So probing on that side must read 12V or so. Now probe the other side of the fuse, it should read 12V as well, if it reads 0 volts, the fuse is bad.

10. To replace the 50A Fuse, it is held by 8-mm nuts and square washer. Use a small hook to hook it out. Remove the fuse and confirm that it is bad with an Ohmmeter: when a fuse is bad it reads infinity Ohms (open circuit).
* CAUTION: this circuit is always "hot" with 12V, even with key out of ignition! If you are not comfortable working with "hot" wire, then disconnect the red cable from the trunk battery. I did this whole thing with the battery connected, just pay attention not to touch any ground while removing the 8-mm and 10-mm nuts.

11. The medium-sized red cable feeding separate electrical items in the car is held by a single 10-mm nut.

12. NOTE the torque for these nuts, basically tight and snug a bit:
* 8-mm nut: 8 Nm
* 10-mm nut: 15 Nm


That is all boys and girls, not too difficult if you know what you are doing!
Can anybody post what system each fuse is for aside from #107?
Reply With Quote
  #72  
Old 09-05-2012, 06:49 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,864
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guam135i View Post
Can anybody post what system each fuse is for aside from #107?

Here you go:














Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	E39Fuses.JPG
Views:	871
Size:	45.1 KB
ID:	340460   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39Fuses-02.JPG
Views:	897
Size:	57.4 KB
ID:	340461   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39Fuses-03.jpg
Views:	868
Size:	38.0 KB
ID:	340462   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39Fuses-04.JPG
Views:	898
Size:	22.0 KB
ID:	340463  
Reply With Quote
  #73  
Old 09-05-2012, 03:43 PM
Guam135i Guam135i is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Guam
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 138
Mein Auto: 08 135i Coupe
Thanks I am assuming it goes right from 107 for obvious reasons, great info. Look at what I found under the carpet










Last edited by Guam135i; 09-05-2012 at 04:01 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #74  
Old 10-08-2012, 11:15 AM
josemedeiros007 josemedeiros007 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 127
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 4Dr
Secondary Air Valve

CN90,

What an awesome job you did posting those images, and explaining the correct voltage and pinouts.

I am finding that a Evap Purge Control Valve is being called a Charcoal Filter Valve and Fuel tank vent valve on the BMW schematic site that's online.
http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/

And on this forum" ,the Air Pump Vacuum Control Valve made by Peirburg is called a Air valve?
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...em-11747537612

The schematic you have posted on #59, shows a Secondary Air Valve Y6163, with a RT/WS \GE and a BR/WS wiring code to the sensors wiring connector.

My 1998 BMW E39 Prod Date: 3/98, has a Red Wire / White stripe and a Green wire to the Air Valve Sensor, and a Red & Blue / Brown wire to the Charcoal Filter Valve / Evap Purge Control Valve. I just want to confirm that that I now have both sensor wire connectors connected to the correct sensors.

Jose F. Medeiros
San Jose, California
http://www.linkedin.com/in/josemedeiros
Thomas A. Edison: 'I have not failed. I've just found 10000 ways that won't work."
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	98528-AirPumpCircuit.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	45.2 KB
ID:	344790   Click image for larger version

Name:	BMW Air Pump Vacuum Control Valve - Peirburg.jpg
Views:	66
Size:	15.2 KB
ID:	344791   Click image for larger version

Name:	BMW Fuel Tank Breather Valve - Genuine BMW 13901433603.png
Views:	51
Size:	29.0 KB
ID:	344792  
Reply With Quote
  #75  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:31 PM
Bennt771 Bennt771 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Barrie
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 285
Mein Auto: 2000 540i,89 Por 930,Vett
There should be 12V to #30 terminal all the time. See pic:

What if there is not?? Like mine?? Fuse in the passenger foot well is good. 2000 540i

Last edited by Bennt771; 12-11-2012 at 05:48 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms