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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 08-22-2013, 10:47 AM
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1BADBM 1BADBM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Fuse 107 controls only the Air Pump. So there is a short in your new Air Pump!
Is the Air Pump OEM Pierburg?

Frustrated, no problemoooooo, you are a candidate for SAS Delete using Radio Shack 90-cent diode.
We need a guinea pig, can I nominate you as the 1st to try the diode trick?

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=716325
I think you are on to something! Do you think its possible that when I jumped the relay to test the pump it could have fried the pump or something else? When I jumped the relay it sparked and the pump kicked on. I lost connection so I did it again to make sure I heard the pump and the wire smoked a bit so i pulled it off. I breezed through the delete thread but I'd have to really read it to see if im capable lol
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  #102  
Old 08-22-2013, 04:34 PM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Mein Auto: E39 hamster w/ pin-wheel
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Fuse 107 controls only the Air Pump. So there is a short in your new Air Pump!
Is the Air Pump OEM Pierburg?

Frustrated, no problemoooooo, you are a candidate for SAS Delete using Radio Shack 90-cent diode.
We need a guinea pig, can I nominate you as the 1st to try the diode trick?

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=716325
Not to be off topic, but...

But, if the pump is making a loud turbine noise, only in the mornings at start-up, is that a sign that the air valve is toast, or the pump being toast...?
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  #103  
Old 08-25-2013, 07:32 AM
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1BADBM 1BADBM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Not to be off topic, but...

But, if the pump is making a loud turbine noise, only in the mornings at start-up, is that a sign that the air valve is toast, or the pump being toast...?
Jason i think its the pump. Any codes?
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  #104  
Old 08-25-2013, 08:34 PM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BADBM View Post
Jason i think its the pump. Any codes?
Nope.
No codes...
Just the jet engine sound at startup in the mornings....
I have noticed the car running rich too...
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  #105  
Old 09-03-2013, 11:30 AM
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1BADBM 1BADBM is offline
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Last question on this then I give up. I tested pump is working before install. Pump does not kick on when installed. Is there a chance jumping the relay could have damaged or fried anything in the E box that would cause the fuse to keep blowing?
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  #106  
Old 10-02-2013, 05:58 PM
solarwindsusa solarwindsusa is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 525i
Secondary air pump problem solved

I read this forum over completely and HAD a problem getting the SAP to work. I tried everything mentioned with countless hours tracking down the problem. I took everything apart and did every test procedure. Long story short after replacing every possible part it was corrosion that destroyed the brown wire crimp inside the connector on the pump itself. I cut the connector off and used some new bullet connectors crimped onto the wires feeding the pump and all of my problems were solved. I HOPE THIS SAVES SOMEONE THE MANY HOURS I SPENT WITH THIS PROBLEM. My sincerest thanks to all of those who posted in this thread to help me finally solve this problem!
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  #107  
Old 10-02-2013, 06:05 PM
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Flybot Flybot is offline
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I just threw out my SAS. While taking out the pump, my connector was completly shorted out. The insulation around the pump wires going into the pump was crumbling off. Proobably due to heat from shorting.

But yes, this issue may be pretty common with pump failures. Something to look for.
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  #108  
Old 10-02-2013, 07:07 PM
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1BADBM 1BADBM is offline
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Wow thanks for that information solarwindusa I will check my wires and connection this weekend!
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  #109  
Old 01-31-2015, 07:28 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Update on Pierburg Air Pump after 5y/50K...

- I know the electric motor is made by Johnson Control and it is made in China.
- After some 5y/50K, the air pump is very noisy, especially in the morning.
- The car is 17y/150K old.
- Disclaimer: I love the environment and don't want to produce more emission than necessary but this air pump SAS thingy drives me nuts.
- In the absence of diode mod like the Volvo people do to fool the ECU, I'd have to decommission the SAS system b/c I don't want to spend another $260 on this useless system.
- I don't have appetite to rebuild the bearings inside the air pump.
- Newer models (Volvo, BMW) use timing to reduce emission, so this SAS system is a design that is obsolete.


So:
1. Small piece of black electrical tape to cover the CEL light. Once a month, I scan for error codes that are not SAS related.
2. D/C the larger hose that feeds the air valve to prevent further damage to the air pump.
3. D/C the small vacuum hose and plug it with a small screw (you don't want the air valve to be activated pushing exhaust gas into the ABS module that sits nearby.
4. Find a rubber plug and plug the air valve larger opening (the opening that goes to air pump).

Car is now quiet in the morning.
So for those tree huggers, I am sorry but I am happy.
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  #110  
Old 02-01-2015, 03:36 PM
TurnzSr TurnzSr is offline
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Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
 
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Mein Auto: 2001 525iT
I've had the CEL with codes P1421 and P1423 on for the better part of the year. I bought a new Pierberg pump, diverter valve/gasket, plastic valves and solenoid, and vacuum hoses thinking it would be a quick replacement with CEL gone forever - until I read this thread all the way through - OMG. Now the big question is whether a warmer month than January would be a better time to start this journey. Hopefully not a 5 year journey. I don't have the patience or electrical expertise that cn90 possesses.
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  #111  
Old 02-02-2015, 05:53 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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duplicate post-please mods delete

Duplicate- Please mods delete if there still are any!

Last edited by 540iman; 02-02-2015 at 06:40 AM.
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  #112  
Old 02-02-2015, 06:12 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Troubleshooting S.A.S. and How to replace Famouse fuse # 107

540iman The low air pressure alarm means that your Pierburg pump in getting 12VDC, but is just not putting-out sufficient volume of error. Seems you can hear the pump as well. This air generally means your pump is weak, you have an obstruction in the head passages filled with carbon, or the valve is not opening sufficiently. Just FYI, I replaced the fuse (mine WAS blown due to the SAP rotor being locked by ice, I replaced the salmon-colored relay. I replaced the pump with $600 genuine OEM, I replaced the valve with OEM, along with all hoses from the pump as well as all the vacuum hoses that trigger the valve. In a nutshell, I replaced everything and I still got a low air pressure alarm. I then replaced the pre-cat O2 sensor just for "luck". Nothing changed.

I took the car to the dealer for just a scan of the SAP system and what was revealed to me was that the air flow to the exhaust system was weak. The swing of the O2 sensors was too weak to satisfy the OEM. I was told I had the dreaded CBU within the heads themselves and only a gun=drill would fix that at a cost of $8000. I bought the powerchips software which opened-up the parameters for which the O2 swing-although minimal- was, in fact, present. Power chips had a software flash which wad the European software which did not require as much air flow to satisfy the ECM. It worked as long as the caveat that the entire SAP system must be in tact, functioning to so degree, but the acceptable air flow was significantly less to satisfy the ECU. This system re-flash is NOT a simulator mimicking the pump, but simply allows a weaker air flow to satisfy the ecu. The entire system must remain intact and
functioning at some reduced level. It is NOT a SAP delete.

My minimal air flow was sufficient to satisfy the oem and saved me $8000 for a gun drill. I would save checking fuse 107 unless I found no voltage at the salmon-colored relay. Many on the M5 forum use this work-around as M5s are quite a bit more affected by clogging of the Sap flow. You will pass emissions if low air flow is your demon.

This may only cure a small instance of the code, but it does work if blockage is your fate. You then have inexpensive "cures" such as the amazon Pierburg pump. you may clean the valve with engine cleaner. such as seafoam, etc. Euro cars need some airflow, they just need less. G/L

My mileage has not decreased at all and in fact, increased!


P.S. 3rd year on same pump and all parts in SAP system still going strong.
Yesterday 05:36 PM

Last edited by 540iman; 02-02-2015 at 06:50 AM.
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  #113  
Old 02-02-2015, 07:22 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurnzSr View Post
I've had the CEL with codes P1421 and P1423 on for the better part of the year. I bought a new Pierberg pump, diverter valve/gasket, plastic valves and solenoid, and vacuum hoses thinking it would be a quick replacement with CEL gone forever - until I read this thread all the way through - OMG. Now the big question is whether a warmer month than January would be a better time to start this journey. Hopefully not a 5 year journey. I don't have the patience or electrical expertise that cn90 possesses.
If you have state inspection (does Michigan have state inspection for vehicles?), then you need this SAS system.
Another approach is to clear the codes before the inspection should you decide to bypass this SAS thingy.

If you don't, then do what I just did, de-commission the SAS system and sell what you just bought on ebay, or sell it to someone else in this forum.
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  #114  
Old 02-02-2015, 11:59 AM
TurnzSr TurnzSr is offline
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Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post

If you don't, then do what I just did, de-commission the SAS system and sell what you just bought on ebay, or sell it to someone else in this forum.
Excellent idea. Michigan does not have a state emissions test. There are plenty of projects that will have better payback of my time (and knowledge base) - Subframe bushes, vanos seals, water pump/thermostat and that *#&$?/ ever-glowing DSC light to name the quickest to mind.
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  #115  
Old 02-02-2015, 12:27 PM
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energizedmortal energizedmortal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
If you have state inspection (does Michigan have state inspection for vehicles?), then you need this SAS system.
Another approach is to clear the codes before the inspection should you decide to bypass this SAS thingy.

If you don't, then do what I just did, de-commission the SAS system and sell what you just bought on ebay, or sell it to someone else in this forum.
interesting...I had Code P0456. Evap small leak detected back in 2013 that would come back about every 300 miles which turned out to be a defective leak detection pump. I cleared the light 20 miles before New York state inspection and passed. I'll try the same for SAS if needed.
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  #116  
Old 04-23-2015, 07:17 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This eloquently worded request today resulted in a testing procedure of the SAS...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Help!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptypocketsbmw View Post
P1423
p1421
p0420
To which Johnstern provided this nice procedure ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
Basic SAS diagnostic. *This will not completely diagnose difficult SAS problems, but it will tell you what has failed. *This must be done at cold start, probably after the car has been sitting all night.

Disconnect the large hose (from the SAP-Supplimental Air Pump) and the small vacuum hose (from the electric vacuum solenoid valve) from the SAS check valve. *This can be done the night before. *You need to squeeze hard on the ribbed parts of the plastic ring at the quick disconnect fitting of the large plastic hose and wiggle it off. *The vac hose just pulls off but if it had been in place for a long time you may need to grab it with a pair of pliers and gently twist it a bit to break it loose. *Then pull it off (this hose can be very dried out and need replacement).
*
Now start the engine and run around to the right (passenger) side of the engine compartment and observe what's happening.

If you hear exhaust noises from the check valve, it is stuck open & needs replacement and/or cleaning. *Cleaning may or may not work. *

Now feel for a vacuum (sucking) at the disconnected vac hose. *If no vacuum, you have a problem with the hoses or the electric vacuum valve. *If you feel a vacuum, plug the hose into the check valve. *It should open and when it does you will hear exhaust noises from it. *If no exhaust noises, the check valve is stuck closed and needs replacement or cleaning-see above.

All this time there should be a very strong flow of air from the big plastic hose. *If not, the pump is not running and needs diagnosis.

Please remember that the SAS System only runs for about a minute after startup so you will have to be quick with your inspections. *If the System shuts down before you are finished, you will have to let the engine completely cool be fore you can proceed.*

If you find that the SAS check valve is malfunctioning, you can replace or clean it, your choice. *If the air pump or the vacuum is not working, they will need further diagnosis-see CN90's (CNN) complete write up on the SAS System.
See also:
- How the secondary air system (SAS) and secondary air pump (SAP) and air valve, check valve, & electrical valve operate (1) & how to maintain (1) (2) (3) & replace (1) & troubleshoot the BMW E39 SAS SAP valve secondary air pump system (1) (2) (3) (4) & an SAP valve group buy (1)
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 04-23-2015 at 07:27 AM.
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