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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 08-22-2013, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Fuse 107 controls only the Air Pump. So there is a short in your new Air Pump!
Is the Air Pump OEM Pierburg?

Frustrated, no problemoooooo, you are a candidate for SAS Delete using Radio Shack 90-cent diode.
We need a guinea pig, can I nominate you as the 1st to try the diode trick?

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=716325
I think you are on to something! Do you think its possible that when I jumped the relay to test the pump it could have fried the pump or something else? When I jumped the relay it sparked and the pump kicked on. I lost connection so I did it again to make sure I heard the pump and the wire smoked a bit so i pulled it off. I breezed through the delete thread but I'd have to really read it to see if im capable lol
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  #102  
Old 08-22-2013, 04:34 PM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Fuse 107 controls only the Air Pump. So there is a short in your new Air Pump!
Is the Air Pump OEM Pierburg?

Frustrated, no problemoooooo, you are a candidate for SAS Delete using Radio Shack 90-cent diode.
We need a guinea pig, can I nominate you as the 1st to try the diode trick?

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=716325
Not to be off topic, but...

But, if the pump is making a loud turbine noise, only in the mornings at start-up, is that a sign that the air valve is toast, or the pump being toast...?
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  #103  
Old 08-25-2013, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Not to be off topic, but...

But, if the pump is making a loud turbine noise, only in the mornings at start-up, is that a sign that the air valve is toast, or the pump being toast...?
Jason i think its the pump. Any codes?
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  #104  
Old 08-25-2013, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BADBM View Post
Jason i think its the pump. Any codes?
Nope.
No codes...
Just the jet engine sound at startup in the mornings....
I have noticed the car running rich too...
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  #105  
Old 09-03-2013, 11:30 AM
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Last question on this then I give up. I tested pump is working before install. Pump does not kick on when installed. Is there a chance jumping the relay could have damaged or fried anything in the E box that would cause the fuse to keep blowing?
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  #106  
Old 10-02-2013, 05:58 PM
solarwindsusa solarwindsusa is offline
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Secondary air pump problem solved

I read this forum over completely and HAD a problem getting the SAP to work. I tried everything mentioned with countless hours tracking down the problem. I took everything apart and did every test procedure. Long story short after replacing every possible part it was corrosion that destroyed the brown wire crimp inside the connector on the pump itself. I cut the connector off and used some new bullet connectors crimped onto the wires feeding the pump and all of my problems were solved. I HOPE THIS SAVES SOMEONE THE MANY HOURS I SPENT WITH THIS PROBLEM. My sincerest thanks to all of those who posted in this thread to help me finally solve this problem!
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  #107  
Old 10-02-2013, 06:05 PM
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I just threw out my SAS. While taking out the pump, my connector was completly shorted out. The insulation around the pump wires going into the pump was crumbling off. Proobably due to heat from shorting.

But yes, this issue may be pretty common with pump failures. Something to look for.
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  #108  
Old 10-02-2013, 07:07 PM
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Wow thanks for that information solarwindusa I will check my wires and connection this weekend!
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  #109  
Old 01-31-2015, 07:28 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Update on Pierburg Air Pump after 5y/50K...

- I know the electric motor is made by Johnson Control and it is made in China.
- After some 5y/50K, the air pump is very noisy, especially in the morning.
- The car is 17y/150K old.
- Disclaimer: I love the environment and don't want to produce more emission than necessary but this air pump SAS thingy drives me nuts.
- In the absence of diode mod like the Volvo people do to fool the ECU, I'd have to decommission the SAS system b/c I don't want to spend another $260 on this useless system.
- I don't have appetite to rebuild the bearings inside the air pump.
- Newer models (Volvo, BMW) use timing to reduce emission, so this SAS system is a design that is obsolete.


So:
1. Small piece of black electrical tape to cover the CEL light. Once a month, I scan for error codes that are not SAS related.
2. D/C the larger hose that feeds the air valve to prevent further damage to the air pump.
3. D/C the small vacuum hose and plug it with a small screw (you don't want the air valve to be activated pushing exhaust gas into the ABS module that sits nearby.
4. Find a rubber plug and plug the air valve larger opening (the opening that goes to air pump).

Car is now quiet in the morning.
So for those tree huggers, I am sorry but I am happy.
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  #110  
Old 02-01-2015, 03:36 PM
TurnzSr TurnzSr is offline
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I've had the CEL with codes P1421 and P1423 on for the better part of the year. I bought a new Pierberg pump, diverter valve/gasket, plastic valves and solenoid, and vacuum hoses thinking it would be a quick replacement with CEL gone forever - until I read this thread all the way through - OMG. Now the big question is whether a warmer month than January would be a better time to start this journey. Hopefully not a 5 year journey. I don't have the patience or electrical expertise that cn90 possesses.
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  #111  
Old 02-02-2015, 05:53 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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duplicate post-please mods delete

Duplicate- Please mods delete if there still are any!

Last edited by 540iman; 02-02-2015 at 06:40 AM.
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  #112  
Old 02-02-2015, 06:12 AM
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Troubleshooting S.A.S. and How to replace Famouse fuse # 107

540iman The low air pressure alarm means that your Pierburg pump in getting 12VDC, but is just not putting-out sufficient volume of error. Seems you can hear the pump as well. This air generally means your pump is weak, you have an obstruction in the head passages filled with carbon, or the valve is not opening sufficiently. Just FYI, I replaced the fuse (mine WAS blown due to the SAP rotor being locked by ice, I replaced the salmon-colored relay. I replaced the pump with $600 genuine OEM, I replaced the valve with OEM, along with all hoses from the pump as well as all the vacuum hoses that trigger the valve. In a nutshell, I replaced everything and I still got a low air pressure alarm. I then replaced the pre-cat O2 sensor just for "luck". Nothing changed.

I took the car to the dealer for just a scan of the SAP system and what was revealed to me was that the air flow to the exhaust system was weak. The swing of the O2 sensors was too weak to satisfy the OEM. I was told I had the dreaded CBU within the heads themselves and only a gun=drill would fix that at a cost of $8000. I bought the powerchips software which opened-up the parameters for which the O2 swing-although minimal- was, in fact, present. Power chips had a software flash which wad the European software which did not require as much air flow to satisfy the ECM. It worked as long as the caveat that the entire SAP system must be in tact, functioning to so degree, but the acceptable air flow was significantly less to satisfy the ECU. This system re-flash is NOT a simulator mimicking the pump, but simply allows a weaker air flow to satisfy the ecu. The entire system must remain intact and
functioning at some reduced level. It is NOT a SAP delete.

My minimal air flow was sufficient to satisfy the oem and saved me $8000 for a gun drill. I would save checking fuse 107 unless I found no voltage at the salmon-colored relay. Many on the M5 forum use this work-around as M5s are quite a bit more affected by clogging of the Sap flow. You will pass emissions if low air flow is your demon.

This may only cure a small instance of the code, but it does work if blockage is your fate. You then have inexpensive "cures" such as the amazon Pierburg pump. you may clean the valve with engine cleaner. such as seafoam, etc. Euro cars need some airflow, they just need less. G/L

My mileage has not decreased at all and in fact, increased!


P.S. 3rd year on same pump and all parts in SAP system still going strong.
Yesterday 05:36 PM

Last edited by 540iman; 02-02-2015 at 06:50 AM.
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  #113  
Old 02-02-2015, 07:22 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurnzSr View Post
I've had the CEL with codes P1421 and P1423 on for the better part of the year. I bought a new Pierberg pump, diverter valve/gasket, plastic valves and solenoid, and vacuum hoses thinking it would be a quick replacement with CEL gone forever - until I read this thread all the way through - OMG. Now the big question is whether a warmer month than January would be a better time to start this journey. Hopefully not a 5 year journey. I don't have the patience or electrical expertise that cn90 possesses.
If you have state inspection (does Michigan have state inspection for vehicles?), then you need this SAS system.
Another approach is to clear the codes before the inspection should you decide to bypass this SAS thingy.

If you don't, then do what I just did, de-commission the SAS system and sell what you just bought on ebay, or sell it to someone else in this forum.
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  #114  
Old 02-02-2015, 11:59 AM
TurnzSr TurnzSr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post

If you don't, then do what I just did, de-commission the SAS system and sell what you just bought on ebay, or sell it to someone else in this forum.
Excellent idea. Michigan does not have a state emissions test. There are plenty of projects that will have better payback of my time (and knowledge base) - Subframe bushes, vanos seals, water pump/thermostat and that *#&$?/ ever-glowing DSC light to name the quickest to mind.
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  #115  
Old 02-02-2015, 12:27 PM
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energizedmortal energizedmortal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
If you have state inspection (does Michigan have state inspection for vehicles?), then you need this SAS system.
Another approach is to clear the codes before the inspection should you decide to bypass this SAS thingy.

If you don't, then do what I just did, de-commission the SAS system and sell what you just bought on ebay, or sell it to someone else in this forum.
interesting...I had Code P0456. Evap small leak detected back in 2013 that would come back about every 300 miles which turned out to be a defective leak detection pump. I cleared the light 20 miles before New York state inspection and passed. I'll try the same for SAS if needed.
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  #116  
Old 04-23-2015, 07:17 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This eloquently worded request today resulted in a testing procedure of the SAS...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Help!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptypocketsbmw View Post
P1423
p1421
p0420
To which Johnstern provided this nice procedure ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
Basic SAS diagnostic. *This will not completely diagnose difficult SAS problems, but it will tell you what has failed. *This must be done at cold start, probably after the car has been sitting all night.

Disconnect the large hose (from the SAP-Supplimental Air Pump) and the small vacuum hose (from the electric vacuum solenoid valve) from the SAS check valve. *This can be done the night before. *You need to squeeze hard on the ribbed parts of the plastic ring at the quick disconnect fitting of the large plastic hose and wiggle it off. *The vac hose just pulls off but if it had been in place for a long time you may need to grab it with a pair of pliers and gently twist it a bit to break it loose. *Then pull it off (this hose can be very dried out and need replacement).
*
Now start the engine and run around to the right (passenger) side of the engine compartment and observe what's happening.

If you hear exhaust noises from the check valve, it is stuck open & needs replacement and/or cleaning. *Cleaning may or may not work. *

Now feel for a vacuum (sucking) at the disconnected vac hose. *If no vacuum, you have a problem with the hoses or the electric vacuum valve. *If you feel a vacuum, plug the hose into the check valve. *It should open and when it does you will hear exhaust noises from it. *If no exhaust noises, the check valve is stuck closed and needs replacement or cleaning-see above.

All this time there should be a very strong flow of air from the big plastic hose. *If not, the pump is not running and needs diagnosis.

Please remember that the SAS System only runs for about a minute after startup so you will have to be quick with your inspections. *If the System shuts down before you are finished, you will have to let the engine completely cool be fore you can proceed.*

If you find that the SAS check valve is malfunctioning, you can replace or clean it, your choice. *If the air pump or the vacuum is not working, they will need further diagnosis-see CN90's (CNN) complete write up on the SAS System.
See also:
- How the secondary air system (SAS) and secondary air pump (SAP) and air valve, check valve, & electrical valve operate (1) & how to maintain (1) (2) (3) & replace (1) & troubleshoot the BMW E39 SAS SAP valve secondary air pump system (1) (2) (3) (4) & an SAP valve group buy (1)
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Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 04-23-2015 at 07:27 AM.
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  #117  
Old 06-18-2015, 04:35 PM
sully80 sully80 is offline
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fuse 107

is this the same placement on an 04 bmws x5 4.8is? and is that the fuse that might be making my radiator fan not work? I can't seem to get any answers my mechanic can't figure it out either . i would appreciate anything you can give me advice on! thanks
brandon











Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
DIY: Troubleshooting S.A.S. and How to Replace the Famous Fuse # 107!

- I have emission codes P1421 and P1423 (S.A.S. codes saying not enough air is injected into the exhaust during cold start), which is very common for car this age 10y/100K miles.

- In order to understand the S.A.S. system, you need to read the attached pdf on S.A.S.:
---> In brief, when engine is cold, the Air Pump injects additional air into the exhaust to reduce pollutants.
---> The Air Pump is designed for high output but short run, so it injects air for anywhere between 2.5 seconds and 105 seconds or so, depending on engine temp.

- These are PNs for 1998 528i, listed only for reference, later years are slightly different. This is taken from www.realoem.com:
* Electrical Valve; PN 11747537612 (about $45)
* Air Valve: PN 11727540467 (about $110)
* Air Valve Gasket; PN 11727505259 (about $4)
* Pierburg Air Pump; PN 11721427911 (about $250)
* Air Pump Relay (K6304): schema is 85-86 and 30-87a-87, PN 12631742690 (about $8)
* Fuse #107: 50A Special Fuse: BMW PN 61138365901 ($4.00); Napa PN 782-1144 ($4.00). The BMW Fuse is covered in black and you cannot check it with your naked eyes (need Voltmeter or Ohmmeter to check). The Napa Fuse is see-through: within a glance you can see the fuse is good or not. I prefer the Napa Fuse. See pic:



- To be sure the Air Pump is bad, remove it and apply 12V to the 2 pins, if it does not run, either the bearing is seized or the motor is gone. You have 2 options:
1. New Pierburg Air Pump is about $250.
2. Rebuild the Air Pump using a standard bearing SKF 626 (ID = 6mm; OD = 19mm ; W = 6mm). Complete Air Pump Rebuild Info is here:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=402816


This is the sequence of S.A.S. system when you start the car cold:
- ECU sends signal to the Electrical Valve (this Valve sits under the Intake Manifold), which in turn opens a small channel to allow vacuum from the Intake Manifold to be applied to the Air Valve (which sits on the Exhaust Manifold)
- At the same time, signal is sent to the Relay to close the 85-86 "primary" circuit, which in turn closes the 30-87 "secondary circuit". In general, the "secondary circuit" in most Bosch relay circuits controls the high current flow.
- In the case of the S.A.S. Air Pump, the 30-87 circuit is controlled by the Fuse # 107, which itself is under the passenger's seat, thanks to the BMW engineers who designed this car with beer and bratwurst!!! In any other car, replacing this fuse is not hard because it is usually located under the hood. In the E39, Fuse 107 is a bit tricky to get too, but not too bad.




SOME DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES:

- Check the small Vacuum line leading to Air Valve, it is usually cracked with time/heat.

- To check Electrical Valve, during cold start, Disconnect (D/C) the small vacuum hose and feel for vacuum, there should be some vacuum from the small hose b/c the Electrical Valve opens the port to allow vacuum from the Intake to the small hose. Now re-connect the small hose.

- Air Valve and Gasket testing: Disconnect (D/C) the large hose to Air Valve, start engine during cold, after a few seconds there should be vacuum at the Air Valve (feel with your palm of your hand), if not either the Air Valve itself or the Electrical Valve is bad.

- Air Pump Testing: At the same time as above, the Air Pump is activated, so you should feel air blowing out of the large hose that you just disconnected above, if not, then the culprits are:
a. The Fuse #107 is blown. When this happens, usually something else is bad (like Bad Air Valve allowing water from exhaust to enter the Air Pump, destroying the bearing is blown ---> the Air Pump is dead. If the Air Pump is shorted electrically, the new fuse will be blown again. So if the fuse is blown, investigate it further. In my case the Air Pump was seized.
b. S.A.S. relay is bad (rare).

- Before getting to Fuse #107 under the passenger seat, check the S.A.S. Relay and its connector first!!! The Main Fuse Box is under the passenger side Cabin Filter. Remove the Passenger Cabin Filter Housing.

- Using Allen keys, open the Plastic Cover and you will see the setup below with all the main relays and some fuses here. To check the S.A.S. Relay, remove it & check for continuity between 30 and 87a, it should be 0 Ohm. Now apply 12V to 85 and 86, 30 and 87 (not 87a) is now connected.

- Now check the Relay Connector, take note of the relay pinout, then copy it to a piece of paper because when reading relay upside down, it is very very easy to get all the connector terminals mixed up! By copying the terminals numbers (basically mirror image of the relay) to a piece of paper, you eliminate error! Over the years, I have learned this the hard way, so trust me with this copying to a piece of paper. There should be 12V to #30 terminal all the time. See pic:




PROCEDURE TO REPLACE FUSE #107 UNDER PASSENGER SEAT:
Now that you have determined that there is no power to terminal #30 in the Relay Connector itself, time to check and replace the 50A Special Fuse.

1. The Trim piece: using flat screw driver pry it up, it is held by 3 White clips.



2. The Seat is held by four (4) Torx #50 bolts, remove them but no need to take the seat out of the car.



3. The Vertical Trim piece: undo the bottom part only to allow the carpet to be folded back.

4. Note how the carpet fits (the front carpet piece slides under the rear piece).

5. Fold the carpet back and place a brick on it to hold it there to free your hand. You will see a Styrofoam insulation piece. In order to remove the Styrofoam in its entirety, you have to remove the plastic tunnel (HVAC Tunnel), which is more work! I bypassed this step: I leave the plastic tunnel alone but break the styrofoam at where it meets the plastic tunnel b/c it is a only a piece of insulation, nothing fancy about it.

- Use a short piece of wood to prop the seat up about 12".



6. Now you see the Electrical Distribution Center, remove the white plastic covers to expose the Red (+) connections. Ground (Brown Cables) is just to the Left of this distribution box.

7. Fuse Block has a total of 8 fuses. Fuse #107 is on the far Left. See picture:



8. To test the Fuse, use a Voltmeter (not Ohmmeter for now).

9. Note the Large Red Feed Cable side, it feeds power to the electrical block where it branches out. So probing on that side must read 12V or so. Now probe the other side of the fuse, it should read 12V as well, if it reads 0 volts, the fuse is bad.

10. To replace the 50A Fuse, it is held by 8-mm nuts and square washer. Use a small hook to hook it out. Remove the fuse and confirm that it is bad with an Ohmmeter: when a fuse is bad it reads infinity Ohms (open circuit).
* CAUTION: this circuit is always "hot" with 12V, even with key out of ignition! If you are not comfortable working with "hot" wire, then disconnect the red cable from the trunk battery. I did this whole thing with the battery connected, just pay attention not to touch any ground while removing the 8-mm and 10-mm nuts.



11. The medium-sized red cable feeding separate electrical items in the car is held by a single 10-mm nut.

12. NOTE the torque for these nuts, basically tight and snug a bit:
* 8-mm nut: 8 Nm
* 10-mm nut: 15 Nm

13. Now you need to address the Air Pump. Either buy a new Air Pump or rebuild it, otherwise this fuse will blow again! Info for Air Pump is mentioned above.

That is all boys and girls, not too difficult if you know what you are doing!
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  #118  
Old 06-19-2015, 06:41 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Don't know about X5, but fuse 107 for SAS in E39 has NOTHING to do with electric radiator fan.
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  #119  
Old 06-19-2015, 07:12 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sully80 View Post
is this the same placement on an 04 bmws x5 4.8is? and is that the fuse that might be making my radiator fan not work? I can't seem to get any answers my mechanic can't figure it out either . i would appreciate anything you can give me advice on! thanks
brandon
Do a search on "Aux Fan Relay", sometimes it is in the glove box.
Go to BMW dealer and ask their mechanics for location.
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  #120  
Old 06-21-2015, 11:01 AM
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HutchMHK HutchMHK is offline
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Thumbs up for this DIY, helped me find and fix fuse #107 today. Can't remember where I read that there's an unused 50 amp fuse in the trunk covered fuse panel over the battery- that turned out to be true for me also, made the difference between finishing the job today and having to wait to get a replacement.
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  #121  
Old 06-26-2015, 08:22 AM
zorin zorin is offline
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Thanks for the great write-up.

I have tested everything ok, however, when I unplug the SAS relay and apply 12v across connectors 85 and 86, the relay connects 30 and 87. When I plug it back and turn the ignition to position 2, the relay does not click. Isn't that the right way of testing the relay? Is the relay bad?

I have checked the voltage on pinhole 87, it's always about 12v. The voltage on pinhole 85 is 12v and on 86 is about 4V when ignition on position 2. The pump runs when I apply 12 directly to it. Is the pump supposed to run with ignition on position 2?
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  #122  
Old 06-28-2015, 10:57 AM
TurnzSr TurnzSr is offline
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I finally got the CEL off by replacing the air pump, diverter valve and the plastic pressure hose between the two. The rubber vacuum hose and plastic pressure hose crumbled in my fingers when I attempted to remove them. No doubt they were a source of leaks or would be soon. Something that I found in the process that I have not seen written up in other posts was the significant corrosion at the electrical connection that rendered re-use of the connector impossible. The connector was frozen tight to the pump even after repeated use of WD40 and PB Blaster.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1435513160

Was it the root cause of the original pump failure?? Who knows. I wrapped the spliced point and the new connector bought at my local stealer with stretch rubber "As Seen On TV" tape to keep the corrosion from recurring. The location of the air pump just begs for corrosion.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1435513160

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1435513160
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Last edited by TurnzSr; 06-28-2015 at 10:59 AM.
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  #123  
Old 07-01-2015, 12:05 PM
sinn3r213 sinn3r213 is offline
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Location: Los Angeles
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: e36 325i , e39 ///m5
Talking Migrating from other forum bringing problem. Guess Donald Trump Had some Rightness

Hi Guys I am new Here i will greet myself after i could upload some pictures on my computer

I register to be able to comment on this SAS issue matter (since i haven't been able to find successful help with my troubles ) I'm currently dealing with this issue on my e39 M5 (2000).
my long story short, i took my vehicle for i'ts biannual Smog here in Los Angeles California (STAR) our Californian Nemesis and as they was testing the OBD they found that Secondary air System (SAS) was not showing readiness so they fail my Test (1 month ago) . Ever since then i been trying to trouble shoot this issue and been following different threads, i have currently check fuse 107 (working properly), replace Relay for kicks (did voltmeter tst on old one and was working also) Jumped SAP 12v direct and pump turns on and blows hard.
* My main problem is no Current or power on wire harness that plugs to SAP, (when i turn on vehicle 12v runs thru wiring harness for less then 1 Second and Automatically shuts off) i cant get to activate my readiness monitor and cant smog vehicle now

I would really appreciate any help of past member who have commented on this forum. Thank you guys for taking the time to read. If i may i could post link from other forum where i have posted my issues and with no luck have not found a solution, just let me know if i could share, thanks again

Last edited by sinn3r213; 07-01-2015 at 12:07 PM.
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  #124  
Old 07-05-2015, 01:07 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,236
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinn3r213 View Post
I would really appreciate any help
As a cross reference for others, please see this thread by sinn3r212...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Another SAS Malfunction GURU NEEDED =D
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinn3r213 View Post
Cn90
Thanks for looking at thread , my fuse 107 is working fine i follow thru your DIY to check relay and fuse under seat (that's how i found them i was clueless on there location) i been trying to trouble shoot my issue but with no luck still haven't found a solution.
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  #125  
Old 07-06-2015, 11:14 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
This useful information was posted today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Another SAS Malfunction GURU NEEDED =D
Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
Testing fuse #107 is a royal PITA and is TOTALLY unnecessary if you have 12VDC at pin 30 of the SAS relay. Its the large red power wire at the relay socket that will have a constant 12VDC whether car is on or not. Why tear up carpet when you can just check in DME compartment? Salmon relay, large red heavy gauge wire, feeds pin #30 so stated on relay itself, and if so just check that you are getting 12 V at SAP for 1.5 min. (prox.) after cold start. If no, then relay is bad or relay not getting trigger voltage to relay coil at cold start from DME. Simple fix if relay has the 30 amp 12VDC power at relay. Simple from there to diagnose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
@540iman,

In contrast to BMW published circuitry (which says 30 is hot all the time), the truth is: test pin 87.

See the posts by billj3cub and myself in the thread below:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=459397&page=3
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