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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-01-2010, 12:25 AM
s-thetikz s-thetikz is offline
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Fuse 15 keeps blowing wtffffff

THE ELECTRICAL GREMLINS!!!!!!!!!!

seriously guys. i don't know what's up

red brake light

abs/dsc/orange brake light turns off last when starting up

occassionally get the "click" before the car fires up

short? or oil level sensor?

ughhhhh

2000e39m52tu
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2010, 01:13 AM
maher528 maher528 is offline
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I don't think I understand what the problem is..
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  #3  
Old 06-01-2010, 09:07 AM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
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OP you should keep all your electrical gremlins to one thread so those who see it can try to help.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=458651
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  #4  
Old 06-01-2010, 09:14 AM
edjack edjack is online now
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Turn on the passenger visor light. Does it have an effect on the Gremlins? If so, replace the ignition switch.
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  #5  
Old 06-01-2010, 09:26 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Call me an old-timer but using the word "WTF" is not very useful when asking for help.

If you did not sleep through your high school Physics class, then you will know that: any time in any car if a new fuse blows, this means the device connected to that fuse exceeds to designed current flow. So instead of replacing the fuse again and again, go and investigate the cause of the electrical short.

Anyway, you are lucky b/c this problem can be fixed easily.

http://www.bba-reman.com/content.asp...s_and_problems

Quote:
Model:
BMW E39 (5 series) with M52 engine, BMW E46 (3 series) Vehicles up to November 1998.
Complaint:
The vehicle will not start. Other problems the vehicle may experience are as follows:

-No transmission range display in the instrument cluster.
-Charge indicator lamp can flicker or it is permanently on.
-Fault code 11 the oil level switch is stored in the instrument cluster (E46)
-Fuse 15 (E39) or fuse 30 (E46) is blown.

This can be due to a faulty oil level switch which can cause the fuse to blow. If this happens a loss of input to EWS from the Transmission Range Switch can occur.
Remedy:
Check fuse 15 and fuse 30 if they are both blown then replace the fuses (7.5A). Start the engine. If the fuse blows again, disconnect the oil level switch at the plug connector, install a new fuse and restart the engine. If the engine starts, and the range display is restored in the Instrument Cluster then replace the oil level switch. In order to confirm whether a switch is defective use a DVM and check the resistance between the pins of the 3 pin connector. A good switch will measure infinite resistance between any 2 pins in the connector.
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  #6  
Old 06-01-2010, 06:02 PM
s-thetikz s-thetikz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Call me an old-timer but using the word "WTF" is not very useful when asking for help.

If you did not sleep through your high school Physics class, then you will know that: any time in any car if a new fuse blows, this means the device connected to that fuse exceeds to designed current flow. So instead of replacing the fuse again and again, go and investigate the cause of the electrical short.

Anyway, you are lucky b/c this problem can be fixed easily.

http://www.bba-reman.com/content.asp...s_and_problems
i apologize, it was in a moment of sheer frustration

the link you provide above is the closest i got to finding similar symptoms to my car. the only thing is though, my car actually runs and drives ... relatively okay. just that damned battery light and this fuse that won't stay on!

if the car turns on with the oil level sensor plug out, then the problem would be the oil level sensor. but my car runs regardless of this fuse being blown out, so i can't figure out for the life of me what it could possibly be. i don't know if it has any correlation to my very loud fan during acceleration, or the hesitation i get under 2k rpms.

i did notice there were some fuses 'missing' that i can only guess weren't there from the factory, but i'm having a hard time trying to confirm this. for example, there is a fuse (maybe 2) for the "auxiliary fan" that isn't there at all, but i'm pretty sure they weren't there when the car was running well.

ahhhhh this is killing me.

but thanks to everyone for the advice you've all provided thusfar... i hope to resolve this really soon
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  #7  
Old 06-01-2010, 06:04 PM
s-thetikz s-thetikz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maher528 View Post
I don't think I understand what the problem is..
Quote:
Baffling problem... Red battery light alt/battery good!
as per thread title.. i'm getting a the idiot red battery light and don't know why! been searching for days now but i'm still getting that damned light and both my alternator and battery are good! checked with a voltmeter, and checked both plugs going to the battery as well as the alternator.

it happened randomly one day when i revved the engine- it went straight into limp mode and the battery light went away- although the SES light didn't. not sure if there's any correlation to the awful hesitation i get under 2k RPM's, but it's the only light on right now and won't go away

i have a 2000 e39 528i MT.

one thing though- every once in a while my car would beep when i turned the ignition (like it didn't have enough charge) but would start up perfectly fine. not sure what this means, but the car hasn't done that since this light has come on. any ideas?

...
so i just read 9 pages of search for "alternator battery light" and found that most responses are automated and reference to the alternator or battery being replaced. jeez. i believe that in over 75% of these cases, people swore that the remanufactured alternators were "bad batches" or not built well. lol i'm quite sure this is not the case.

the ones that suggest "poorly grounds" seem more on the money, and I just went outside to check the ground by the passenger side cabin filter, which seems tight but i was not able to scrub.

there needs to be a definitive solution to these electrical gremlins as most of these threads were simply abandoned, and i can presume the e39 owners either bashed their cars in anger or sold them off.

if the alternator and battery are receiving proper charge, i have concluded from the 9 pages that it has to do with:

1. grounds
2. regulator

or

3. ignition switch


and in perhaps 5 of the threads i found, people have unrequited requests for a wiring diagram of the alternator and grounds- does anyone have this?

in any case i have decided to consider this problem again in the morning
here's some more context, sorry
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  #8  
Old 06-01-2010, 08:46 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s-thetikz View Post
...If the car turns on with the oil level sensor plug out, then the problem would be the oil level sensor. but my car runs regardless of this fuse being blown out, so i can't figure out for the life of me what it could possibly be. i don't know if it has any correlation to my very loud fan during acceleration, or the hesitation i get under 2k rpms.
Loud fan during acceleration: check Fan Clutch and the entire cooling system.

The Fuse #15 issue: it controls the oil level sensor and engine control. When it is blown, you should not able to start the car. Something is wrong here:
Anyway, you need to post your problem in a more coherent manner, you ramble all over the place. List the problems one by one + symptoms.



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  #9  
Old 06-02-2010, 02:01 AM
s-thetikz s-thetikz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Loud fan during acceleration: check Fan Clutch and the entire cooling system.

The Fuse #15 issue: it controls the oil level sensor and engine control. When it is blown, you should not able to start the car. Something is wrong here:
Anyway, you need to post your problem in a more coherent manner, you ramble all over the place. List the problems one by one + symptoms.



Both 15 and 38 are currently blown (38 is the courtesy light in the vanity mirror i believe). I'm not lucid enough to post the comprehensive list of problems right now but i will in the morning.

you say that the car shouldn't be running at all at the moment? what would allow me to drive the car despite having a blown #15?
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  #10  
Old 11-08-2010, 04:47 PM
AXIS540 AXIS540 is offline
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hey, did you ever fix the problem? i also have the same problem. always thought i had a weak batt/alternator, but not 1st priority to fix until now i discovered fuse 15 blown. t keeps blowing when i turn the key to on position.
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  #11  
Old 11-08-2010, 05:02 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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When low oil happens, the oil level sensor sends a signal to blow the Fuse 15, this way you cannot start the car.
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  #12  
Old 11-08-2010, 05:52 PM
AXIS540 AXIS540 is offline
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Understood, but my car starts and drives ok to me. I'm just trying to figure out why the fuse keeps blowing. Did some searchin and found that the oil level switch on the oil pan may be faulty. Will have to disconnect the plug to see if the fuse will then stay intact. Have to wait until tomorrow. Will advise.
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  #13  
Old 11-09-2010, 04:18 PM
AXIS540 AXIS540 is offline
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disconnected the oil level sensor and fuse 15 does not blow any more. battery light does not stay on anymore. check oil level and was good. will replace oil level sensor soon. great forum
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:22 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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You need to drain the oil first. You may as well change the engine oil when replacing the oil level sensor (sensor can be ordered from EACTuning.com).

Here is engine oil DIY using wood ramps:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=459141
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:55 PM
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dalekressin dalekressin is offline
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I agree with cn90. If you want help; explain the problems.
In short a fuse that continues to blow represents an electrical circuit overload or a short in short.
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  #16  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:59 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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This is E46 Oil Level Sensor, but it is the same procedure for E39. Make sure the surface is clean and and the new sensor has the seal:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=600818


Last edited by cn90; 11-09-2010 at 06:00 PM.
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  #17  
Old 08-21-2011, 01:48 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I never had problems with oil sensors ... but is this the right summary?

OIL LEVEL SENSOR:


OIL PRESSURE SENSOR:


Is there an oil TEMPERATURE sensor?
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  #18  
Old 08-21-2011, 03:13 AM
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wat's dat noise
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not unless it's an m5............
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  #19  
Old 08-21-2011, 04:46 AM
rdl rdl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I never had problems with oil sensors ... but is this the right summary?
... stuff deleted ...

Is there an oil TEMPERATURE sensor?
There is on my '03 530 with MS43 DME
Here is the locator from WDS
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I recall 2 sensors on that corner of the OFH when I replaced the gasket. One "points" cross car, the other front to rear. Sorry, but I don't recall which is which.

From WDS description for oil temp sensor:
"The engine oil temperature is required for VANOS activation. It provides a more accurate indication of the engine temperature than the engine coolant temperature."

Regards
RDL
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  #20  
Old 08-21-2011, 06:27 AM
JimLev JimLev is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s-thetikz View Post
THE ELECTRICAL GREMLINS!!!!!!!!!!

short? or oil level sensor?

ughhhhh

2000e39m52tu
-----------------------------------------
Fuse 15 sends power to the following:
Oil level sensor
Data connector under the hood next to the ABS module (no data conn after ~6/2000)
Alternator
Temp switch in DME box for cooling fan in bottom of DME box
Range switch for automatic tranny.

Start unplugging things until the fuse stops blowing.
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  #21  
Old 08-21-2011, 04:19 PM
vetaldj vetaldj is offline
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Had same problem, disconnected oil level sender from oil pan and was driving for 3 month periodically adding some oil.

Recently finally changed oil and sensor - now everything is fine...
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  #22  
Old 02-19-2013, 02:33 PM
cohiba7777 cohiba7777 is offline
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Thumbs up Well stated

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Call me an old-timer but using the word "WTF" is not very useful when asking for help.

If you did not sleep through your high school Physics class, then you will know that: any time in any car if a new fuse blows, this means the device connected to that fuse exceeds to designed current flow. So instead of replacing the fuse again and again, go and investigate the cause of the electrical short.

Anyway, you are lucky b/c this problem can be fixed easily.

http://www.bba-reman.com/content.asp...s_and_problems
Thank you sir for a superb response!
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  #23  
Old 05-23-2014, 08:33 PM
iclapham iclapham is offline
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E39 540i blowing fuse 15 and not starting

I read the discussions about this problem with interest. My E39 540ikeeps blowing fuse 15 and won't start but also the battery light has been permanently on for about 18 months. After reading the suggestions in this forum I disconnected the oil level sensor. With the sensor unplugged fuse 15 continued to blow and the engine would not start.

Using a DVM I checked the sensor and it appeared to be open circuit (or very high resistance) between all combinations of pins. From what I read the sensor should be okay. I then measured the impedance between the wires in the plug while still unplugged and there was a short between two of them.

Any other things I can try?
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  #24  
Old 05-23-2014, 09:08 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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iclapham,

Trace the wiring and fix the short.
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  #25  
Old 10-25-2014, 11:42 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Another long saga that turned out to be the oil level sensor:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > DME fuse on my 2001 525i blows up
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbass View Post
It was oil level sensor. I realized it because there were two wires on the connector but only one lead on the sensor. I don't remember the other sensor that it was switched with. Oil level sensor is on oil filter stand
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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