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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 12-17-2014, 10:02 AM
Deathstroke Deathstroke is offline
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Alternator Removal: Tension Pulley star slot

Hi Guys,
I need to replace my alternator but I discovered that my tension pulley doesn't have a standard socket fit hex but an 8? pointed star (I cant find a damn image).
I looked in the forums and didn't see anything in regards to the size or what type of socket bit I should be using to release the tension and finally replace this alternator.
Thanks guys.
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  #2  
Old 12-17-2014, 10:11 AM
edjack edjack is offline
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Sounds like you need a Torx socket. Get thee to Harbor Freight.
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  #3  
Old 12-17-2014, 01:00 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Is this what you referred to?



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  #4  
Old 12-17-2014, 06:09 PM
Deathstroke Deathstroke is offline
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No thats not it (to the images above). You got the star pattern on the nail but this torx end is on the pully that loosens the belt. . Does anyone know what size to get? I dont want to spend more than i should on all these extra bits and oreillys tell me i cant return them. I have a torque wrench as well. Now that i know its a tork bit i need, what is the size? Im assuming 1/4

Last edited by Deathstroke; 12-17-2014 at 06:10 PM.
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  #5  
Old 12-17-2014, 07:58 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Torx bits are sized from very small ~T6 to much larger like T60.
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  #6  
Old 12-17-2014, 08:01 PM
Deathstroke Deathstroke is offline
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Thanks jimlev however im looking for the specific size of the tension pulley on my vehicle
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  #7  
Old 12-17-2014, 09:46 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Buy an entire set at Harbor Freight for $!0.00. You have other Torx bolts that are various sizes as well, but you may also need a T-55 bit.

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  #8  
Old 12-17-2014, 09:48 PM
Deathstroke Deathstroke is offline
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Guess i have no choice. Sounds like a good idea i guess. Thanks guys!
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  #9  
Old 12-17-2014, 09:51 PM
Wgosma Wgosma is offline
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Torx

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
Buy an entire set at Harbor Freight for $!0.00. You have other Torx bolts that are various sizes as well, but you may also need a T-55 bit.

Agreed, this stuff is inexpensive and useful to have. I checked the BMW TIS and it shows details of the procedure but does not list the size of the torx required. I'm in Oceanside, CA and have these tools....for a price I can pay you a visit, but you'd be better of economically to buy a set of torx

Good Luck / Bill
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Last edited by Wgosma; 12-17-2014 at 09:53 PM.
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  #10  
Old 12-18-2014, 05:26 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathstroke View Post
Now that i know its a tork bit i need, what is the size? Im assuming 1/4
Since I did the job, I've already written down (almost?) everything you would possibly need to know about what tools to use and what sizes, what parts to take off, what parts to buy, etc., all of which is referenced (and doublechecked by 50,000 others) in the bestlinks already.

So, your question is already answered.

If I type /tensioner f3 in the bestlinks, this is one of the hits that will give you the answers you seek:
Quote:
Common questions which need to be answered BEFORE you do an alternator and/or drive belt system overhaul:
- 1st: Physically, determine what type of tensioners you have (1)
- 2nd: Physically, determine exactly what alternator you have (1)
- 3rd: Determine which parts you need to buy for a complete drive belt system overhaul (1)
- 4th: Do the alternator and drive belt system DIY (belts, tensioners, pulleys, rollers, alternator) (1)
BTW, you really need to post a picture because there are plenty of bolts and leverage points that look like they're for adjusting tension, when they're not.

See also:
- How to tell if you have mechanical or hydraulic belt tensioners (1) & how to switch from mechanical to hydraulic (1) and what is the difference between the two types (1) (2) & how to rebuild your hydraulic tensioners (1) & how to re-grease your pulleys and rollers (1) & the answer to the question of adjusting the 540i hydraulic tensioners' belt tension (1) (2)
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 12-19-2014 at 03:55 PM.
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  #11  
Old 12-18-2014, 05:55 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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If I had an I6 I would have given you the size required, however like Bob said you really need to go to HF or some other tool place and get a set. Our cars have many different size torx bolts that you will need to remove as you continue to work on it.
Add some tools to your Christmas list, more tools are better than less tools.
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  #12  
Old 12-18-2014, 10:34 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
more tools are better than less tools.
Besides, the tools are free ...
- What to tell newbies who think they don't have time, money, expertise, or tools to DIY & why the tools are free (1)
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Last edited by bluebee; 12-19-2014 at 03:54 PM.
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  #13  
Old 12-18-2014, 10:39 AM
Deathstroke Deathstroke is offline
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I hear you guys. And thanks. But i owned a ****ty 95 buick before this and the only tool i had was a flat head in the closet. Got the bimmer to "upgrade" and my closet looks like a fkn mechanic shop. Ive never had to walk to work so much. I miss my buick bucket lol
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  #14  
Old 12-18-2014, 10:41 AM
Deathstroke Deathstroke is offline
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@bluebee

Your image above, that is the exact groove im talking about pictured above in the belts. Thanks.
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  #15  
Old 12-18-2014, 10:50 AM
Deathstroke Deathstroke is offline
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@bluebee

Hey guys for a straight forward answer i found it to be a " 5/16th hex screw" .. plug it in if your e39 requires it and loosen that belt up! (Clockwise). Set your wrench to tighten ,"R" , and push it down (assuming your start position is with the handle pointed towards the alternator, horizontal to the ground, push down towards the fan). Just breaking it down for the noobies

Last edited by Deathstroke; 12-18-2014 at 10:51 AM.
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  #16  
Old 12-18-2014, 10:58 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathstroke View Post
I miss my buick bucket lol
The bimmer has about 25 or so items that constantly break, or need replacement, on almost every bimmer.

You'll get used to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathstroke View Post
Your image above, that is the exact groove im talking about pictured above in the belts. Thanks.
You really should post a picture yourself, because it's different depending on the vehicle and on the year, but if you're talking about the picture I posted, notice that you generally do NOT touch that Torx bolt in the center of the pulley! (Read the thread I pointed you to already if you don't understand why I'm saying that.)

If you're referring to some other picture, then please ignore what I just wrote above.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathstroke View Post
Hey guys for a straight forward answer i found it to be a " 5/16th hex screw" .. plug it in if your e39 requires it and loosen that belt up! (Clockwise). Set your wrench to "R" and push it down (assuming your start position is with the handle is pointed towards the alternator, horizontal to the ground, push down towards the fan). Just breaking it down for the noobies
Thanks for the update as updates are always good.

While the V8 actually does have an 'adjustable' tensioner, it's my understanding that the I6 tensioner isn't adjustable (at least on my 2002 M54 engine) per se.

You 'remove' belt tension by applying force to a socket built into the side of the tensioner, but, when you put the belt drive back together, there is just one tension and that is not adjustable.

Are you 'sure' the middle Torx is for tension adjustment?


EDIT: Based on my alternator removal thread, I think it's a T50 Torx; but it doesn't matter as that's not the way to loosen tension anyway ...
- One users' example of total electrical failure (AAA towed away) alternator repair (1)
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Last edited by bluebee; 12-18-2014 at 11:13 AM.
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  #17  
Old 12-18-2014, 11:14 AM
Deathstroke Deathstroke is offline
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@bluebee

Damn im getting mixed messages here then. On youtube i saw a guy plug in the hex bolt and remove tension that way, but he never mentioned the hex size. And ive also seen a video where the bolt behind the pulley (pictured above) is used to release. Im going to try the one illustrated in the Bmw instructions above first, if i find nothing, ill try the hex slot and come back and share my findings
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  #18  
Old 12-18-2014, 02:57 PM
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supradupe supradupe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathstroke View Post
Damn im getting mixed messages here then. On youtube i saw a guy plug in the hex bolt and remove tension that way, but he never mentioned the hex size. And ive also seen a video where the bolt behind the pulley (pictured above) is used to release. Im going to try the one illustrated in the Bmw instructions above first, if i find nothing, ill try the hex slot and come back and share my findings

Use a 16mm hex socket and turn the hex protrusion clockwise to loosen. To help re-install, you can jam a skinny short screw driver in place to hold the tensioner in "loosen" position.
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Old 12-18-2014, 05:28 PM
Wgosma Wgosma is offline
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....don't forget to go buy that set of torx drives, it won't be long before you'll have a need for them .
Good luck, report back as to whether you're driving a Bimmer with new belts and such or shopping for a Buick.
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  #20  
Old 12-18-2014, 07:02 PM
TurnzSr TurnzSr is offline
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Back in 2006 before I started doing all of my own work, the dealer wanted an extra $150 for the hydraulic tensioner over and above the $236.00 that he charged me to replace the belt tensioner with a mechanical unit. I passed on the hydraulic unit. A month later the new tensioner was squealing like a pig. He again tried upgrading me to the hydraulic (as suggested in the service bulletin above). I went with the mechanical. That was at 86,600 miles. Recently I replaced both tensioners, the idler and both belts at 147,000 miles when I replaced the alternator - not because they were noisy but because it made sense for $155.00 (BavAuto) while I had he front of the engine open. The old tensioners were still quiet and good for many many more miles. I for one don't see a reason to upgrade to the hydraulic tensioner.

Deathstroke - you do not need the torx socket for a 525i. The cast-in hex lug on the tensioner is used to relieve the tension on the belt. The whole project will be a lot easier if you remove the fan.
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  #21  
Old 12-19-2014, 12:23 AM
Deathstroke Deathstroke is offline
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Talking everyone

Hey guys thanks for all the tips i really appreciate it.
I did as i had said id do and found the bolt the gentleman above me and few before him have mentioned. For the noobies:. You cant really see the bolt but its behind the tension pully. If you put your finger on it (finger point down, palm facing engine). It will be somewhere in front of your inner knuckle. Feel for it. Its a 16 mm socket. Set your wrench to "R" and give it a good push, it should give way easily
I had a handy 5 mm allen wrench to stick into the 2 holes that meet when the belt is loosened (youll see them right above the pulley) to keep the belt loose as i worked, once everything was in, i double checked the belt was in correctly and precisely, then had a buddy hold the belt in place for a sec while i "loosened" the belt again to pull the allen out and blam. Finished.
And yes, take your fan out, trust us.
One succesful first attempt at the alternator. *Complete!
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  #22  
Old 12-19-2014, 01:00 AM
damisco damisco is online now
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Damn alternator was the easiest job I've ever done on my bimmer the only part I hate about it is that thing is heavy man
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  #23  
Old 12-19-2014, 03:23 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathstroke View Post
Damn im getting mixed messages here then. On youtube i saw a guy plug in the hex bolt and remove tension that way, but he never mentioned the hex size. And ive also seen a video where the bolt behind the pulley (pictured above) is used to release. Im going to try the one illustrated in the Bmw instructions above first, if i find nothing, ill try the hex slot and come back and share my findings
The beauty of the canonical threads is that the BS that other people spout is debunked by the time a thread has around 50,000 views or so.

I too had researched how to do a belt-drive overhaul on my I6 and I too was initially confused about that center Torx but, as you can see from my references, you don't touch it as the I6 tension isn't adjustable.

The only thing you do is leverage the tensioner away from the belt so that you can get the belt on, and when you put the new tensioner in, there's a pin to keep it away until you put it back (it's all in gory detail in my thread, so this is merely a repeat, years later - so go to the thread for exact step-by-step instructions).

Note: The two tensioners are different - and it's covered in the thread.

If you find that information wrong, that's fine - but show us a picture so we don't waste time trying to help you on the wrong part.
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Last edited by bluebee; 12-19-2014 at 03:57 PM.
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  #24  
Old 12-19-2014, 03:24 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supradupe View Post
Use a 16mm hex socket and turn the hex protrusion clockwise to loosen. To help re-install, you can jam a skinny short screw driver in place to hold the tensioner in "loosen" position.
One of my tensioners came with a 'pin' holding it in the off-tension position. It's all in the thread... so this is a repeat.
You can see the tabs lining up in the old photo below from the referenced thread (all the photos in this thread are in the referenced threads).
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Last edited by bluebee; 12-19-2014 at 03:58 PM.
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  #25  
Old 12-19-2014, 03:31 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathstroke View Post
Its a 16 mm socket... 5 mm allen wrench to stick into the 2 holes
Yup.
- Spare 5mm or 11/64 allen wrenches or smaller (6mm or 3/16ths are too large)
- Optional: T50 Torx, L-shaped to fit in tight spaces (socket is too large)

That is what I had pointed you to earlier ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Lest I forget, here are the instructions I wrote (and constantly adjusted) for replacing the alternator and belt drive components:


TEXT DIY FOR ALTERNATOR, TENSIONERS, IDLER ROLLER, & BELTS: (July 2010)

Contributors (in order of appearance): bluebee, mmm635, pleiades, 540_M-Sport,
cn90, QSilver7, Fudman, doru, jarhed1964, supradupe, xraye39, DHoang,
five.two.five, Jason5driver, harris2p, 540iman, & MatWiz.

SYSTEM DESCRIPTION:
- BMW 2002 525i;M54 engine;A5S.325Z automatic transmission;
- Bosch 120amp air-cooled alternator with multi-function control
- INA mechanical belt tensioners for both belts
- belt-driven mechanical cooling fan with viscous clutch (controls fan speed)
- cooling cassette in front of the radiator (cools the ATF, PS, oil, & AC)
- electrically-heated thermostat
- auxiliary electric cooling fan
- auxiliary coolant pump from base of fan shroud on drivers side
- outside (shorter) belt turns the AC compressor
- inner (longer) belt turns alternator, water pump, & power steering pump

ORDER PARTS:
- R&R CS/AC drive belt
- R&R CS/WP/ALT/PS drive belt
- R&R alternator (OEM Bosch 120 amp, P/N AL0703X, 0 124 5 15 050)
- R&R idler pulley
- R&R lower belt tensioner (CS/AC belt)
- R&R upper belt tensioner (CS/WP/ALT/PS belt)

Note: It is highly recommended you order from OemBimmerParts, EACTuning, or other fest supporters!

SUMMARY DIY (thanks to the contributors listed above):
0. Most leave fan shroud & hoses in place & the fan loose inside the shroud
1. Disconnect battery positive terminal in the trunk with 10mm box wrench
2. Remove the mass-air filter housing (a few 6mm hose clamps & a 10mm bolt)
3. Undo fan clutch nut with 32-mm thin wrench & 45-mm spacing counterhold tool
4. Apply clockwise force (16mm) to each tensioner to remove both drive belts.
5. Disconnect power (13-mm) & rectangular connector in back of alternator
6. Unbolt the PS reservoir bracket (two 13-mm bolts) and set it aside.
7. Remove two alternator 16-mm bolts; the upper bolt also holds idler pulley
8. Remove upper mechanical tensioner (two 13mm bolts) with spring extended
9. Remove lower mechanical tensioner (two 13mm bolts) with spring compressed
...
10. Replace lower mechanical tensioner & then upper mechanical tensioner
11. Replace idler roller and alternator and alternator electrical connections
12. Replace the inner cs/wp/alt/ps belt first; then replace the outer cs/ac belt
13. Replace the viscous fan nut onto the water pump
14. Replace the power steering reservoir and the engine air cleaner housing
15. If removed, replace the radiator fan shroud & upper radiator hose
16. Bleed if necessary & test alternator output on the cluster (if equipped).
17. Consider CCV, ICV, OFH gasket, & PSP fluid reservoir leak fixes
Note: Debugging steps are not included in this Remove-and-Replace DIY (R&R).

Note: To replace alternator & drive belt components you do NOT have to remove
the fan or the fan shroud; removal of the fan is highly recommended; removal
of the fan shroud will certainly make access much easier; removal of the
upper radiator hose is trivial and will also aid in access (although hose
removal will entail an additional cooling system refill and bleed).

GATHER TOOLS:
- Cooling fan counterhold wrench BMW 11.5.030; aka pulley holding tool
- Thin 32 mm long box-crescent combination wrench
- OPTIONAL: Alternator pulley nut removal tool BMW 12.7.110 (only if needed)
- 4-to-6 amp 12V battery charger
- Socket wrenches (16mm, 13mm, 6mm) & extensions
- Box wrenches (17mm, 16mm, 10mm)
- Screwdrivers (#2 Philips, 3/16ths inch flathead)
- Spare 5mm or 11/64 allen wrenches or smaller (6mm or 3/16ths are too large)
- Optional: T50 Torx, L-shaped to fit in tight spaces (socket is too large)

- 1 can anti-sieze paste
- 1 can dielectric grease

0. REMOVE RADIATOR FAN SHROUD (OPTIONAL):
See also: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
- Raise the E39 with a jack and put on jack stands (or ramps)
- Remove the under-engine shroud pan (nine #2 Phillips one-twist bolts)
- Draw the hose sequence or snap photos of the underside shroud hose routing.
- Protect your eyes from falling dust with goggles (I didn't and wished I did).
- Locate the auxiliary pump at the bottom driver-side corner of the shroud.
- Disconnect the press-pull auxiliary coolant pump electrical connector
- Slide the auxiliary pump toward the center of the radiator out of the
fan shroud sleeve by lining up the 0.540" OD hose in the clamp and tugging
gently
- From above, follow the smaller of the two power steering hoses down
until you reach a hose-to-hose clip shared with one of the radiator
hoses; disconnect the radiator hose side of this clip and make a note
of the location of the clip as it will move once you disconnect it.
- From below, for the upper of the two expansion tank hoses only,
working your way from the passengers side to the drivers side,
disconnect the three clips at the bottom of the fan shroud; then
disconnect the one clip at the back of the fan shroud facing the engine.
- From below, for the lower of the two expansion tank hoses, working
your way from the passenger side to the drivers side, disconnect
the three clips on the bottom of the fan shroud and then disconnect
the one clip on the side of the fan shroud.
- Mark with whiteout or nail polish or chalk where the clips line up
with the hoses once the hoses are out (you'll see the indentations).
Later you'll use these marks for reference or you'll transfer these
marks to the new hoses in the same position.
- From above, follow the wire out of the auxiliary water pump to the
AUC (stink) Automatic Air Recirculation sensor on the driver's side in
front of the alternator
just under the upper radiator hose elbow. Notice the orientation of
this AUC sensor (electrical connector up, embossed lettering outward).
You'll need that information for reassembly.
- Press the plastic clip on the stink sensor connector and pull up to
remove the AUC sensor from the fan shroud.
- Remove the diabolically German 2-inch by 3-inch AUC sensor housing
by wiggling and coercing it, mostly pushing up from the bottom of
the AUC sensor housing and pulling the top of the AUC sensor housing
away from the shroud. Then, once it's a bit loose, switch directions
of force by pushing down on the AUC sensor housing, pulling the bottom
of the AUC sensor housing away from the shroud. You have to just do it.
- Place the AUC sensor housing in your parts bin.
- With a 3/16th flathead screwdriver pry out (only) the (center)
plastic rivet pin on the driver's side of the shroud near the upper
hose until you can get needle nose pliers on it to pull that center
pin out. Then pry out the base surrounding the center pin.
- Likewise, remove the rivet to the side of the expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove the expansion tank filler cap.
- With two screwdrivers, pry up the escutcheon around the bleeder screw
next to the expansion tank filler cap (that has the words ENTLUFTUNG
molded into the top) and remove the escutcheon.
- Replace the expansion tank filler cap.
- Study how the M-shaped rubber seal at the top of the fan shroud sits.
- Pull up on the two-foot long M-shaped seal at the top of the fan shroud.
- Lift the fan shroud up and to the rear of the car; you'll get about 4
inches of room to see the small hose that goes across from the expansion
tank to a nipple on the drivers side.
- BE VERY CAREFUL IN THE NEXT STEP (I broke the nipple right off!)
- The Beisan DIY tells you to pry open the original clamp next to the nipple
on the driver's side, so that you can remove the hose. I disagree. You do
not want to put ANY pressure on that brittle nipple. If you must remove
the factory clamp, dremel it off at the point ABOVE the hoses. Better
yet, leave the factory clamp on & remove the entire nipple (gently).
- The nipple often snaps in half right at the edge of the groove for
the o-ring. In addition the groove for the o-ring molded in has sharp
corners rather than a rounded groove, further weakening the part such that
it often snaps when working around it. Some report removing the old nipple
with a 10mm socket pushed into the upper radiator hose opening, and pushed
it on to the "clipped" end to push it closed enough so that it can be pried
out of the radiator (putting a string on the socket in case it fell into
the radiator).
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showpos...5&postcount=16
- If you haven't done so already, remove the fan clutch nut (see separate
instructions) with 32mm fan clutch nut wrench (1 1/4") and 48-mm hole
spacing fan hub bolt counterhold tool.
- Lift fan shroud and pull fan out toward driver tilting and wiggling
as necessary to get the fan out of the shroud; it will come out aiming
at the driver's steering wheel.
- Beisan says to remove the fan shroud from the engine bay at this point
but I don't see how you can with the expansion tank, it's three hoses,
and the electrical connector on the bottom still connected to the
expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove expansion tank bleed screw with a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Take a good long hard look at how the expansion tank hoses snap into
the shroud at the bottom of the expansion tank (you'll need that later
when you put them back).
- Dislodge the expansion tank from the fan shroud by pulling the top
toward the windshield about a half inch away from the top of the fan
shroud; dislodge the two hoses at the bottom from the fan shroud.
- Replace the bleed screw with a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Pull the drivers side of the fan shroud up and at the same time pull
the bottom hoses of the expansion tank away from the fan shroud.
- Pull the upper expansion tank house through the tunnel in the
fan so that it is not impeding removal of the fan shroud
- Finally, remove the shroud from the engine bay, leaving the expansion
tank still connected to the car.
- Disconnect the frail-looking electrical connector from the bottom of
the expansion tank.
- The Beisans say to place the expansion tank at a high location in the
engine bay but that only made my broken nipple leak more so I put it
at about the same level it was prior.
- As per the Beisans, I tried to keep the expansion tank overflow hose
high to keep coolant from draining out but whenever I raised the expansion
tank, coolant drained out of the broken nipple on the radiator anyway.
Eventually, while I was working on putting the fan on the water
pump, the expansion tank fell to the floor with a full thud, and
I had to jam a branch of wood from my plants into the broken nipple
end on the end of the hose to stave the bleeding mess.
- At this point, the fan is off, the shroud is off, and the expansion
tank is connected but lying on the ground.
- I have access now to the water pump bolt!

0. REMOVE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE (OPTIONAL):
- Inspect entire length of hose for damage; if it exists, replace the hose.
- Place a catch pan under the radiator hose (or partially drain radiator).
- Never apply side-to-side or twisting or up-and-down motion to the radiator
hose with your hands; apply only axial force with a pry tool.
- Insert the tip of a small 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver under the center
of the u-shaped hose clamp at the radiator neck and leverage the u-shaped
clamp upward to release the lock on the radiator neck.
- Insert the tip of a small 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver into the junction
between the plastic radiator neck and the plastic upper radiator hose end
and twist until the hose is the width of the screwdriver blade outward.
- Once the width is as far as the twisting motion will allow, insert the next
larger size screwdriver into the space and twist again until the hose moves
outward by the width of the screwdriver blade.
- Repeat the twisting action with the next largest screwdriver until the
upper radiator hose simly falls off the radiator neck.
- Insert the tip of a small 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver under the center
of the u-shaped hose clamp at the thermostat housing pipe and leverage the
u-shaped clamp upward to release the lock on the thermostat housing.
- Insert the tip of a small 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver into the junction
between the plastic thermostat housing and the plastic upper radiator hose
end and twist until the hose is the width of the screwdriver blade outward.
- Once the width is as far as the twisting motion will allow, insert the next
larger size screwdriver into the space and twist again until the hose moves
outward by the width of the screwdriver blade.
- Repeat the twisting action with the next largest screwdriver until the
upper radiator hose simly falls off the thermostat housing.
- With wire cutters, cut the original black plastic wire tie holding a
wiring harness to the upper radiator hose near where the upper radiator hose
bleed screw is located.
- Remove the upper radiator hose from the vehicle.

1. DISCONNECT BATTERY POWER AND CHARGE BATTERY:
- Set up your computer in your work area with Internet access to Bimmerfest
- Grab a box of nitrile gloves and a solvent cleaner & roll of paper towels
- Disconnect both battery cables with a 10mm box wrench (to be safe)
- Optional: Charge battery with less than 16.5V, 6 amps capacity charger

2. REMOVE ENGINE AIR CLEANER HOUSING:
- To prevent breakage of fragile plastic parts (ask me how I know),
remove the driver's side outer headlight lamp and the angel eye lamp
and wrap in a clean cloth with rubber bands holding the protection on.
- So that the parts go back the same way they came out, scratch with an
awl or other sharp object a demarcation line where the large and small
air intake hoses emanating from the front drivers side fender mate with
the air intake housing ductwork, prior to disassembly.
- Make a note of the under-the-MAF-sensor-housing routing of the MAF sensor
harness connector so that you can route it properly when you reassemble.
- Make a note of the direction & orientation of the hose clamps as they
may fall off during the ensuing repair and you'll want to put them back
the same way they were prior.
- With a jar of whiteout, mark a line on each disassembled tube so that
when you reassemble, you won't make any mistakes of not putting them
in far enough (they're all black).
- Loosen intake duct hose clamp at throttle assembly with a 3/16th flathead
(or, better yet as I belatedly learned, with a 6mm socket on an extension)
- Spread plastic clip to remove remove 1/4" idle control hose from intake duct
- Spread open two metal clips holding mass air flow sensor
- I tried to disconnect idle speed control valve harness connector but
I just can't find it, not from the Bentley pictures, nor from looking
- Disconnect harness connector from mass air flow sensor (press & pull)
- Remove air filter housing mounting screw with a 10mm socket or box wrench
- Disconnect vent tube by pulling back on the soft rubber with your hands
- Loosen air intake duct clamp with a 3/16ths flathead screwdriver
- I had to remove the MAF sensor housing in order to gain room
- I had to remove the engine air filter in order to gain leverage
- I had to twist the hard plastic vent tube out of the way to gain room
- Nobody tells you there is an unclamped hose at the BOTTOM of the
engine side of the air intake hose just after the MAF that holds it all up!
- Since there was no clamp on that bottom hose, I was on my own
(no instructions in the Bentleys mentioned any of this!)
- I elected to remove the two hose clamps near the engine on the large
3-inch air intake hose with a 3/16ths flathead screwdriver (or better yet,
with a 6mm socket on a 1/4 inch ratchet driver handle)
- Only after loosening those additional two hose clamps was I able to lift
the engine air intake up and back over the engine.
- This engine air intake is still connected to the engine by a pair of
what looks like vacuum hoses which I couldn't get loose for fear of
breaking the plastic nipple, so I left it all connected draped over
the engine
- Optional: I dumped leaf remnants out of the air filter housing inlet
- Optional: I put the 10mm bolt back so as not to lose it
- Optional: I tightened the three hose clamps so as to not lose them
in the ensuing battle; it was then that I realized a 6mm
socket on a 1/4" socket handle would have been easier than
the screwdriver (and updated the appropriate step above)
- Optional: While the MAF was removed, I hit it with a dozen pulses of
special MAF cleaner (aka xylene) and let air dry
- For the first time, I was able to feel the alternator belt tension,
which felt solid

Note: I still don't know if I was supposed to disconnect those two small
hoses still connected, or if I was supposed to pull on the one-inch
wide hose w/o a clamp that is still connected under the MAF closer
to the engine. But the air cleaner is off and to the side for now.

3. REMOVE VISCOUS FAN CLUTCH NUT (OPTIONAL BUT HIGHLY RECOMMENDED):
- Lift car with jack under the engine pad & place jack stands on jack pads
- Set parking brake and chock both rear wheels
- Twirl fan blade; check that fan clutch spins it twice after you let it go
- Mine spun about a quarter of a turn after I let it go (both directions)
- Let the engine cool down if it was used recently.
- Apply WD40 to fan clutch nut
- From below, remove under-engine plastic shroud (9 P2 Phillips head screws)
- Each Phillips head screw twists out in a single turn & stays with the shroud
- First place the fan counterhold tool (45 mm hole spacing) on the viscous
fan pulley nuts so that you can hold the pulley from turning
- Then place the 32mm (1 1/4") thin long open-end wrench on the viscous
fan nut.
- Scissor the two 16-inch long tools, twisting the left-hand threaded
viscous fan nut clockwise to remove (holding back with the counterhold tool)
- Once you crack the nut loose, spin it off by hand and place the fan
tucked out of the way in the well of the radiator shroud
- Removing the viscous fan gives you a lot more room to maneuver
Note: Some say to keep the fan clutch vertical so fluid doesn't leak out!
Note: Fan nut is either M23x1.50 or M24x1.50.

4. REMOVE BOTH DRIVE BELTS:
- Draw a diagram of the belt pathways.
- The outside (shorter) belt turns the AC compressor
- The inner (longer) belt turns alternator, water pump, & power steering pump
- The AC belt is thinner than its grooves so make special note before removal.
- My larger belt went from the top of the alternator -> to the outside of the
power steering pump --> to the engine-side groove of the crankshaft
pulley --> around the pulley almost 360 degrees to the idler roller
upside down curling around the idler roller from the bottom --> then to
the bottom of the water pump pulley and around the water pump --> then
again upside down to the very bottom 15 degrees of the upper mechanical
tensioner --> over to the top of the alternator pulley.
- My smaller belt went from the top of the compressor --> over to the top
of the crankshaft pulley around the bottom of the crankshaft pulley -->
over to the top 15 degrees of the lower mechanical tensioner --> back
over to the bottom of the AC compressor pulley.
- Find two small allen wrenches that you should insert into the tabs in
the two mechanical tensioners to keep the tension off until you're ready
to replace the belts (and to free up access to the 13mm mounting bolts)
- To remove alternator belt (it has to come off first), place a 16mm
box wrench on the lower mechanical tensioner and turn the box wrench
clockwise; this will loosen tension so you can slip the allen wrench
into the holes when the moving hole lines up with the stationary hole
- Once the lower mechanical tensioner is locked in the open position,
slip the alternator belt off the pulleys.
- Optional: Spin the pulley of the lower mechanical tensioner with the
belt removed; if you hear a "dry sound", it needs to be replaced.

- Note: If you wish to remove the pulley on the mechanical tensioner,
you will need an L-shaped T50 Torx wrench or you will need to remove
the fan shroud as there is not enough room for a socket or screwdriver
T50 Torx wrench between the mechanical tensioner pulley and the lower
lip of the fan shroud. However some say the they don't sell the pulley
separately so you need to remove both 13mm bolts holding the mechanical
tensioner in place, one of which will be a bear to access.
- The upper mechanical tensioner will be harder to access the 16mm leverage
nut. It can be accessed from the top with a 16mm socket wrench or even
easier from the bottom. Turn the wrench clockwise and this will lesson
the tension on the belt so that you can slip the belt off after inserting
your second spare allen wrench into the holes as they align with your
tension.
- With both belts off, spin the pulleys by hand. Here is what I found:
- waterpump pulley ==> spins 3 to 5 times quietly when spun (probably OK)
- crankshaft pulley ==> does not rotate by hand (I'm sure that's OK)
- power steering pulley ==> goes about 1/4 rotation when spun (probably OK)
- AC compressor pulley ==> spins about 3 or 4 turns silently (probably OK)
- alternator pulley ==> spins about 1 or 2 turns silently (probably OK)
- upper tensioner pulley ==> spins 10 or so turns noisily (probably BAD)
- lower tensioner pulley ==> spins about 15 turns barely audible (probably bad)
- idler roller ==> won't spin at all; very hard to spin; (probably bad)

5. REMOVE ALTERNATOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS:
- Remove the 17mm plastic-tipped nut for the red power cord from the back
of the alternator using a 17mm box wrench
- Press the pin and remove the top harness connector from the back of the
alternator

6. REMOVE POWER STEERING FLUID RESERVOIR BRACKET:
- Before removing the power steering reservoir bracket, make a note of
where the 1/4" corrugated plastic wiring goes between the power steering
reservoir and the oil filter housing (for later proper reassembly).
- With a 13mm socket and a six-inch extension bar to clear the power steering
fluid reservoir, first remove the rear bolt and then the front bolt
holding the power steering reservoir bracket and position power steering
reservoir safely
Note: Once the alternator is removed, loosely put the power steering pump
back on its brackets to prevent leakage and hose stress.
- Notice the bottom hose may be leaking; see cn0 fix for that.
- Leave the power steering hoses (for now); this just gives you access to
the two 16mm holding bolts for the alternator bracket.

FIX POWER STEERING RESERVOIR LEAKY HOSE (OPTIONAL):
- Leaky hose = 0.745"OD (other hose is 0.915" OD) (Doru says 20.9 - 24.1 mm)
- Drain hose from 22mm bolt facing the rear on the power steering pump
- or use baster (or pour)
- Third end is on the power steering pump itself
- Don't buy OEM Oetker clamp
- Flush it backward if you remove it
- The return hose from cooling coils to the reservor leaks.
- Start engine - turn steering wheel from side to side a few times,
- Check fluid level and add as necessary, repeat if necessary...
- Hose clamp to psp is realoem D=20,9-24,1 (for 530)
- Hose clamp to radiator is realoem D=16,6-20MM (for 530)
- Sears Craftsman 6" wire cutters (9 45075) grab between the outer lip and
one of the three locking nubs
- Closest clamp (far off) is #12 which is 9/16 to 1 1/4 (Tridon brand)
- Found a #8 which was a closer fit
- Use 8mm 1/4 socket on the flatheat bolts for secure twisting
- Used a costco 1kg smokehouse almonds container with a wide top for your fist
- Inspect color of fluid in the daylight (red --> grey)

REFERENCES:
- http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986
- http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=245304
- http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=327581
- http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61089

7. REMOVE ALTERNATOR HOLDING BOLTS:
- The upper 16mm alternator holding bolt is the bolt holding on the idler
pulley; while the lower 16mm bolt is on the alternator bracket alone.
- It's easier to get to both the 16mm holding bolts from below than from
above.
- The upper holding bolt is removed with a 16mm socket and the lower one
requires a short two-inch extension and socket.
- Wiggle the unclamped plastic air duct off the bottom back of the alternator
- Now just wiggle the alternator out; it came out easily for me.
- You'll also have the idler pulley in your hands at this time.

8. REMOVE UPPER MECHANICAL TENSIONER:
- Tools: 13mm & 16mm socket, 3-inch socket extension
- Unlike the lower tensioner, you need to REMOVE the hold-fast pin
- Turn clockwise on the 16mm molding to release tension on the hold-fast pin
- Remove your 5mm or 11/64 allen wrench hold-fast pin placed during the
belt-removal process
- With a 13mm box wrench, remove the lower & upper 13mm tensioner bolts
- Remove the upper mechanical air conditioning tensioner from the engine
- Mark the tensioner as the alt/ps/wp tensioner (they are slightly different)

9. REMOVE LOWER MECHANICAL TENSIONER:
- Tools: 13mm and 16mm socket, 3-inch socket extension
- Spare allen wrench of just under about 5mm diameter (mine was unmarked)
- From underneath, turn the 16mm molded nut clockwise till the tabs line up
- Slip the spare 5mm allen wrench into the two tabs to lock them in place
- With a 13mm box wrench on a 3-inch extension, remove both bolts
- Remove lower mechanical air conditioning tensioner
- Leave the spare allen wrench in place (how do you safely remove it?)
- Mark the tensioner as the AC tensioner (they are slightly different)
Note: AC mechanical tensioners were redesigned in 8/2002 so compare with new
Note: How do we safely remove the spare allen wrench in the old tensioner?

Summary:
- Both belts are off the M54 engine
- The alternator and idler pulley are off the car
- Both mechanical tensioners are off the car
- The engine air cleaner and MAF housing are off (tucked on top of engine)
- The mechanical viscous fan clutch is off (tucked next to radiator)
- The power steering reservoir is off (hoses still attached)
- The fan shroud, radiator, and all radiator hoses are intact

Note: Lightly coat the water pump pulley flange with anti-seize where it
contacts the pulley. Avoid getting anti-seize in the bolt holes.
The anti-seize helps prevent the pulley from fusing to the flange.
Also coat the viscous fan nut with the anti-sieze paste.

Note: You should replace a bad idler pulley, but you can repack as per cn90:
- Use a hook and gently pry the rubber seal.
- Soak the bearing in a small container with gasoline to wash out old grease.
- Then repack with new grease.
- Gently re-apply the seal, taking care not to damage it.

Inspect oil filter housing gasket for leaks; repair if necessary.
Inspect power steering pump hoses for leaks; repair if necessary.
Inspect valve cover gasket for leaks; repair if necessary.
Inspect CCV and ICV; clean and/or replace if necessary.
Inspect cooling system components; replace if necessary.

10. REPLACE MECHANICAL TENSIONERS:
- Replace lower mechanical tensioner (two 13mm bolts) with spring compressed
Put the upper bolt in first as it's harder than the lower bolt.
I used a 13mm socket on a 3-inch exenstion and hand twirled the bolt
Torque as per Bentley page 121-16 & 020-19 is 16 ft lbs for the M54 engine.
- Replace upper mechanical tensioner (two 13mm bolts) with spring extended
Thinly coat the bolts with anti-seize paste.
Put the upper bolt in first as it's harder than the lower bolt.
I used a 13mm socket on a 3-inch exenstion and hand twirled the bolt
Torque as per Bentley page 121-16 & 020-19 is 16 ft lbs for the M54 engine.
But there really isn't much room for my long click-type torque wrench.
- THIS IS A STEP I MISSED AND IT COST ME DEARLY!
I should have used the 16mm wrench to place the ~5mm allen wrench
holding tension on the upper tensioner! This cost me dearly as I tried
to do so AFTER putting in the entire alternator; and failed!

11. REPLACE IDLER ROLLER & ALTERNATOR & ALTERNATOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS:
- Replace two alternator 16-mm bolts; the upper bolt also holds idler pulley
Thinly coat the bolts with anti-seize paste.
I tried to torque as per Bentley but there is no mention of the torque.
So I looked here for torque figures from cn90 which showed on page 30 the
idler bolt is 90Nm, which from this chart is a whopping 97 foot pounds!
On page 57 of cn90's torque book the torque on the rear holder bolt is
shown as a measly 3.5 Nm, neither number do I believe.
http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...78&postcount=2
- Reconnect the B+ power cable by the 17mm nut at the back of the alternator.
Bentley page 121-17 says to use 10 foot pounds of torque.
- Reconnect the rectangular field connector by pushing it into the
back of alternator.

12. REPLACE BOTH DRIVE BELTS:
- Make sure your original belt diagram is handy (you'll refer to it a lot!).
- Make sure the pin is in both tensioners; if not, place a pin in each.
- Wind the CS/WP/ALT/PS inner belt back on, starting from the reverse twist
on the upper tensioner looping back over the water pump to the underside
of the idler roller, with the pin keeping tension off the belt while your
fingers are in there.
If there's any slack, you put it on wrong (ask me how I know).
- You still have to use your 16mm sockete wrench to turn clockwise to push
past where the pin is to get everything in their groove.
- When the inner belt is finally in place, turn the 16mm socket wrench
clockwise just a little bit more in order to remove the pin with your
hands and get the last inch of the inner belt on just right.
- Now wind the AC compressor outer belt on as per your diagram.
- Again, remove the pin when the belt is positioned correctly.

13. REPLACE VISCOUS FAN NUT ONTO WATERPUMP HUB:
- Place a dab of anti-seize on the fan hub bolt and then spin the
32mm fan clutch nut COUNTER-CLOCKWISE back on the fan hub bolt.
- Optionally, twist slightly clockwise to set the nut on the threads before
twisting counterclockwise to spin the fan on.
- Best is to use the cn90 string trick as described below:

a. Tape the end of a string of about 2 feet of rawhide onto the fan clutch nut.
b. Wrap that rawhide counterclockwise (from the front of the engine) for
about five or ten twists
c. With one hand holding the fan against gravity, and positioning the fan
nut on the water pump hub shaft, use your other hand to pull up on the
rawhide string so as to spin the fan clutch nut on counterclockwise
without gravity being a major problem.
d. When the nut is spun on most of the way, remove the string and tape.
e. Tighten the fan clutch nut as desired until the water pump begins moving.
f. Hold the water pump from moving with your 45mm spacing counterhold tool
and spin the fan clutch nut on the remaining few threads using your thin
long 32mm open-end wrench.

Note: Page 170-15 of the Bentleys lists the torque as 89 INCH pounds; but
there is really no need to torque on the fan nut as the engine will
tighten it as it rotates counterclockwise (facing the engine from front).

14. REPLACE POWER STEERING RESERVOIR BRACKET & REPLACE ENGINE AIR INTAKE:
- From above, with a six-inch socket bar extension to clear the reservoir,
replace the rear 13mm bolts first for the power steering reservoir
bracket (it's the harder one) and then the front 13mm bolt and tighten
both to specifications.
- Double check the hose clamps at the bottom of the power steering
reservoir, especially if you shortened or replaced the hoses due to
leakage.
- Angle the clamp so that it won't be blocked when you eventually put
the engine air filter housing back on (ask me how I know).
- Refill with Dexron III ATF (essentially Dexron VI since GM no longer
legally certifies Dexron III). My empty reservoir took 550 ml (or
about 18 fluid ounces) on the first fill before starting engine.

15.REPLACE FAN SHROUD (IF IT WAS REMOVED):
- Clean the expansion tank coolant temperature sensor electrical connector
with MAF sensor cleaner (xylene) and when dry, add a dab of dielectric grease.
- Reconnect the expansion tank coolant temperature sensor connector but don't
make the mistake I made which was to connect with the wires above the ac
hose; the wires must be below the ac hose.
- Rethread the expansion tank overflow hose through the top of the fan shroud
- Reconnect the nipple and pipe clamp. Don't make the mistake I did, thinking
I could leave this for later because as soon as I removed the bleed screw
in the expansion tank, fluid leaked out of the radiator hole due to the
expansion tank being above that hole. When you press the nipple down into
the radiator, make sure it goes all the way until the seam is small
(I used a soft rubber mallet).
- Make sure the hose-clamp bolt is at south position, closest to the
radiator and furthest from the fan shroud. I used a 7mm quarter-inch
socket for security when tightening.
- Place the shroud approximately in place with the drivers side up about
six inches higher and replace the expansion tank hoses (I struggled for
half an hour trying to get the two hoses in the bottom of the expansion
tank to snap back into place). Finally I re-removed the bleeder screw,
tilted the expansion tank about 1/2 inch at the top away from the
fan shroud, and snap, the bottom hoses snapped into place instantly.
Lesson learned.
- Replace the bleeder screw using a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Tape and wrap about 2 feet of rawhide on the fan nut.
- Place fan clutch assembly inside the fan shroud.
- Position fan shroud as close to perfect on the top and put on eye=
protection and then go down
underneath the car to move hoses about and position the fan shroud
back in the two (2) plastic clips at the bottom and one in each bottom
corner (2). There is a clip on the sides (2), about a third of the way
up, and a clip near the top on the sides (2) for a total of about
8 clips.
- Unfortunately for me, my careful taping of the fan clutch fell off when
I tried to keep the heavy fan out of my way by tying it to the car.
Lesson learned. Don't try that.
- Again taping the rawhide on from the driver's side (there is no access
on the passenger side of the fan shroud due to the fact the expansion
tank is now firmly in) and wrapping it around the fan clutch nut,
it was easy to spin the fan on straight; took less than a minute
to get the fan nut spun onto five or six threads until it almost
bottomed on the shoulder of the water pump shaft.
- When the string falls off, tighten the nut (counter clockwise) by
holding the fan with your left hand and turning the 32 mm wrench
counter clockwise (the water pump hub won't spin due to belt
tension). After about 10, fifteen degree twists of the 32mm wrench,
you'll feel the nut tighten and the water pump hub will finally
move.
- Bringing the 45-mm hole spacing counterhold tool from the driver's
side, UNDER the upper hose (it won't work any other way), twist the
fan hub with the 32mm wrench until the right set of holes seats in
the hole and slot of the counterhold tool. Tighten as desired.
(Personally, I couldn't get more than a couple of degrees of
movement.)
- Nudge the fan shroud into its final seating position, taking care to
inspect the two rivet holes at top (2), the clips on the bottom third
on the side (2), the clips at each bottom corner (2) and the two clips
on the bottom (2) for a total of 8 clips.
- The top should be aligned so that you can replace the two-foot long
rubber M-shaped seal at the top of the fan shroud. Press along the
entire length of both channels of the M-shaped seal to confirm proper
positioning.
- Temporarily remove the expansion tank filler cap.
- Align the two clips and the word ENTLUFTUNG for the escutcheon that
goes around the bleeder screw next to the expansion tank filler cap.
and snap into place by wiggling the expansion tank and fan shroud
as you press down on the escutcheon.
- Replace expansion tank filler cap.
- From above, replace the plastic rivets at each corner of the shroud.
- Pick up the AUC sensor housing out of your parts box and locate the
holes in the fan shroud just below the upper radiator hose elbow where
it snaps into place on the fan shroud.
- Orient the diabolically German 2-inch by 3-inch automatic air recirculation
AUC sensor housing
with the electrical connector facing upwards and the embossed letters
facing to the driver's side outside of the car. Notice the hooks at the
top of the housing face down and the hooks on the bottom face up, while
the flap at the very bottom opens horizontally. Place the two bottom
hooks in first, then lift up while pressing in so that you can place
the top hooks next. The bottom flap should land over the bottom shelf
of the fan shroud connection point. At this point, I noticed my bottom
shelf was broken, probably when I manhandled the AUC out the first
time.
- Place a dab of dielectric grease in the electrical connector for the
AUC and connect the AUC sensor wiring connector making sure to keep
the wires below the upper radiator hose elbow.
- From above, locate the electrical connector for the auxiliary pump
and place a dab of dielectric grease on the connector before feeding
it down dangling to where you can reach it below.
- From underneath, align the auxiliary pump with its holder on the fan
shroud and slide in from the center toward the drivers side until
the marks you made prior on the hose align with the clips on the
fan shroud.
- Press the electrical connector for the auxiliary fan onto the
auxiliary fan until you hear it click tight.
- From above, follow the smaller of the two lines emanating from the
bottom of the power steering reservoir to the hose-to-hose clip
for the lower expansion tank hose and connect the two hoses together
at the point noted before you originally removed this clip.
- From below, for the lower expansion tank hose only, working your way
from the drivers side to the passenger side, connect the clip on the
side of the fan shroud; and lastly connect the three clips at the
bottom of the fan shroud.
- From below, for the upper of the two expansion tank hoses only,
working your way from the drivers side to the passenger side,
connect the clip on the edge of the fan shroud facing the engine;
and then connect the three clips at the bottom of the fan shroud.
- Reattach the lower engine cover 9 P3 Phillips one-turn screws.
- Voila! You've reattached your fan shroud.

REPLACE LOWER ENGINE SHROUD
- Reattach the lower engine shroud using the nine P3 one-twist Phillips screws.

REFILL LOST COOLANT & BLEED:
- http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=449008
- http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1423821
- http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=225208

Note: The Bentleys don't provide torque values for the two 16mm long bolts
of the alternator bracket.

HINDSIGHT:
My alternator removal was not planned; it just gave out on me. Had I planned better, the items to always consider proactively on the I6 seem to be:
0. Alternator & drive belt system (tensioners, idler roller, belts)
1. Oil Filter Housing (OFH) and crankcase ventilation valve (CCV) and idle control valve gasket (ICV) & throttle body gasket:
2. Vanos, Valve Cover Gasket (VCG), & spark plugs
3. Cooling system overhaul (expansion tank, radiator, fan clutch, water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat & housing)

Oil Filter Housing leak (OFH) DIYs:
- ElwoodBlues Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY for a 2002 530i (OFH)
- CN90 Oil Filter Housing Gaskety DIY for a 1998 528i (OFH)
- BryanH Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY for a 1998 528i (OFH)

Crankcase Ventilation Valve DIYs (CCV PCV, throttle body gasket, & idle control valve (ICV) gasket):
- Fudman CCV M54 DIY for a 2002 530i
-
Gumbi4u CCV/PCV Changed out M54 530i
-throttle body gasket and idle control valve seal/gasket

See also:
- One users' example of total electrical failure (AAA towed away) alternator repair (1) [Read post #66 & post #107 & especially post #146]
__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 12-19-2014 at 03:58 PM.
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