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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-07-2011, 05:59 PM
munoz_e39 munoz_e39 is offline
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Is this causing misfire?

My 2001 bmw 530i has not been starting at first crank usually about 5 times fuel system is working perfectly but the only code i get is P0117-Engine coolant temp. low can it be my temp sensor or maybe something else can someone please help me by fixing it will it start at first crank?
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  #2  
Old 01-07-2011, 06:21 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by munoz_e39 View Post
My 2001 bmw 530i has not been starting at first crank usually about 5 times fuel system is working perfectly but the only code i get is P0117-Engine coolant temp. low can it be my temp sensor or maybe something else can someone please help me by fixing it will it start at first crank?

You need a new thermostat, but this is not the culprit of your slow start issue.

Slow start issue usually caused by fuel, sparks, or air.
But check your crankshaft sensor first, then fuel pressure, then plugs and coils.
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  #3  
Old 01-07-2011, 06:57 PM
munoz_e39 munoz_e39 is offline
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Thanks,The fuel pressure plugs and coils are all good its just that problem it starts only when the temp gauge is not on red and then I start it And then 5 seconds later it goes red but the car doesn't over heat but a problem I had before was That I had ran put of gas and I changed the fuel filter cause all the gas was black do you think if I empty the tank And put 91 gas in it will make a difference

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  #4  
Old 01-07-2011, 09:05 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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From the best links thread:
- How to diagnose a BMW E39 engine misfire (1) & a cold-engine intermittent misfire (1)
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  #5  
Old 01-07-2011, 09:11 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by munoz_e39 View Post
Thanks,The fuel pressure plugs and coils are all good its just that problem it starts only when the temp gauge is not on red and then I start it And then 5 seconds later it goes red but the car doesn't over heat but a problem I had before was That I had ran put of gas and I changed the fuel filter cause all the gas was black do you think if I empty the tank And put 91 gas in it will make a difference

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Your fuel injectors may have gotten clogged from ran out of gas.
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  #6  
Old 01-07-2011, 09:13 PM
munoz_e39 munoz_e39 is offline
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The fuel injectors are fine They have been tested asswell And there is Nothing else I could think of

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  #7  
Old 01-07-2011, 09:19 PM
munoz_e39 munoz_e39 is offline
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I have no vacuum leaks tho can it be timing.?

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  #8  
Old 01-07-2011, 09:24 PM
munoz_e39 munoz_e39 is offline
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Bluebee you think its the VANOS it seems like its my problem

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  #9  
Old 01-07-2011, 09:24 PM
edjack edjack is online now
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Read pending codes and report back.

How were the injectors tested? Were they removed, and the spray pattern checked?

The fuel pressure plugs and coils are all good How were these things tested?
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  #10  
Old 01-07-2011, 09:46 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by munoz_e39 View Post
Bluebee you think its the VANOS it seems like its my problem
I couldn't possibly tell you what the problem is.

You need to tread the well-worn path I pointed you to for misfire diagnosis.

If you want to just skip to a conclusion, that's just fine as you'll end up replacing part after part after part after part ... and eventually ... sooner or later ... you'll replace the problem part.

If you think it's the VANOS seals, take a look at this thread in addition to the misfire-diagnostic tree I provided earlier:
- What is a reliable & easy-to-perform DIY objective before/after test of VANOS seals?
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  #11  
Old 01-07-2011, 10:11 PM
munoz_e39 munoz_e39 is offline
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so none of the codes i addressed seem to be the problem? thanks for the link very useful it seems to be the VANOS so i need a VANOS seals too make the car fire right up again and a temp sensor to get the car in working condition i mean cause i have a ODBII and it says my fuel system is ready to go it just says i wont pass smog im guessing its the O2 sensor in block 2 does that have anything to do with the hazard light that always on? thanks for the help
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2011, 10:19 PM
munoz_e39 munoz_e39 is offline
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the car only seems to misfire when cold and has a rough idle once it gets started starting it isnt a problem yet until i leave the car overnight and the car doesnt start anymore sorry about that last message i read it was kind harsh but the links you posted on this thread the cold start misfire is the most relevant. but the power issue i dont really feel much of a change only the fact that the car seems to be whistling at 1,500RPM thanks for the help its been very useful i think i got an idea if what it is just need to tie some loose ends
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