DIY - 528i OIL Change (E39) 6 cyl

GOKOOLJAPAN · Nov 18, 2003

528i Oil Change (no pics because it’s easy)

Disclaimer: The procedure below is to be done at your own risk. I have changed Oil numerous times using these procedures with positive results, but may not work for you. I am not stating that the procedures below are the proper BMW procedures. The instructions below were performed on a 1997 528i. Other years and models may differ, but I do not know for a fact. I will not be held accountable for any mishaps or accidents. Again, please perform these procedures at your own risk.

TOOLS & Parts NEEDED:

½ Drive Ratchet
17mm socket
36mm socket
Torque Wrench
Flat Head Screwdriver
Floor jack, hand jack or ramps and jack stand
7 qts of Synthetic Oil & Oil Filter

Tip: Warm up car to operating temperature to make oil drain out smoothly and almost completely.

1. Start by jacking up your car on the front passenger side jack point using a floorjack or hand jack (OR you can use ramps). Once high enough to get under, make sure to put a jack stand or hand jack underneath the front part of the cross member (place it on a point where you can still access the drain bolt).
2. Locate the drain bolt which will be facing downwards at an angle. The bolt is a 17mm bolt and is facing the passenger side front wheel. You can’t miss it! Look from underneath passengerside front towards the bottom of the engine. It’s the only bolt you can see. And also, you can’t miss it since the oil pan is a big square.

Using a 17mm ratchet (I would use the ½ drive socket and ratchet for added leverage), begin by loosening the bolt (counter clockwise). Strategically place the oil catch pan underneath. When loosening the bolt, push on the bolt until you are ready to remove it (what this does is that you don’t want to just straight loosen the bolt till it falls off). This will aid in not dropping the bolt in the oil pan and not having oil all over your hand. Let the Oil completely drain for a good 10 mins or so.

Tip: If using a floor jac, remove the jack stand and lower the jack just before it touches the oil pan. This enables the car to be leveled in order to get as much oil as possible out.

3. Loosen the Oil filler cap on top of the valve cover so that the oil will drain smoother. Then get your 36mm socket out and begin to remove the oil filter cap. This should be really easy to find since it is the only 36mm socket type in the engine bay. Look for the black plastic cover.

Remove the cap and the filter should come with it. Remove the filter just by pulling it out. Remove the large O-Ring on the cap which is located at the top to seal it (use a screw driver). Your new filter from BMW should come with one. Replace with new O-Ring and put a LIGHT coat of oil(oil that you are using in yor car) on the O-ring. Replace the oil filter. Wait till oil drains from the filter housing and then replace the filter and cap and hand tighten. Then take out your trusty torque wrench and torque the cap to 25 NM.(should say on the cap)

4. Raise car up like Step #1. Clean off drain bolt and replace the crushable copper washer. Replace bolt and hand tighten (clockwise). Make sure you clean ant oil around the bolt and oil pan. Torque that bolt to 21 ft lbs. Lower vehicle.
5. Pour 7 qts of oil into the oil filler on top of the valve cover. Tigten oil cap and start engine. Drive or let the car run for 3-5 mins and make sure there are no leaks underneath or in the oil filter housing.
6. Re-set the oil inspection light & that’s it!

Piece of cake!

-Gokooljapan

sehiser · Apr 5, 2005

Great post!

You'll all notice on your oil filter cap #NM, in my case thats 25NM. NM is Newton Meters. You'll have a hard time find a Torque wrench that shows NM.

Most of you will see 25NM, which converts to approximately 18.5 foot lbs of torque.

The oil filter cap uses an O-Ring, what's nice about that is it just needs to be snug. When an O-Ring isn't used on an oil filter, you need almost twice as much torque on it.

If you don't have a torque wrench, don't worry. 18lbs of torque is a nice snug tug, just once, don't over do it. You just want to make sure there are no leaks.

To be honest, you don't really have to worry about being as accurate with the drain plug, I would tighten that like you would any other bolt, just give it a nice light tug.

You'll notice on your BMW the torque specification are given in NM. Unless you're rebuilding an engine and dealing with piston rods and rod bearing, you just need to be close.

If you need to convert NM into Ft-Lbs, it's simple. 1 NM is approx. 0.74 Foot-Pounds

eg: 25NM x .74 = 18.5 ft-lbs

Don't skimp on the metric sockets by trying to get american to fit. You're talking $3 a socket, and $35 for a basic torque wrench if you want one.

Other than that, my dealership charges $465 for spark plug, oil, filters, and gear oil changes.

Changing sparks plugs and oil on a BMW is 5 times easier than on a domestic.

$9 or less for an oil filter.
7 qts of synthetic about $5.20 a qt = $36.40
$5.50 for NGK plugs, x 6 = $33
Gear Oil, about $5.
Fuel Filter = $10

You're out the door for under $100. The only other things you need to know how to do are check your brakes, lube stuff, and make sure nothing is getting worn out. Basically the service center is just looking for ways to make money off you. Don't buy the line "Well it's a German car, they are different". Yeah, they ARE different, they are easier to work on and more dependable. It's good to have a micrometer to check your rotors, and a few other tools here and there. If you don't check all these things, it's a good idea to let a service center have a good one over on the occasion, you don't want to be cheap but you don't want to get ripped off either. You can do the entire inspection in under an hour if you don't make a mess.

Probably the only thing I wouldn't do is my alignment and tires. An alignment is about $45-60 and worth it. They use some high end equipment for that, you can buy DIY alignment equipment for about $1400, but I'd personally save that for a service center.

The guys at the service center will get a kick out of a BMW owner who can actually work on a car.

Scott
Toledo, OH

ketchup · May 11, 2005

I don't know if you covered this, but don't forget to fill the oil filter canister with new oil too!

luvdriven540i · Aug 5, 2005

GoKoolJapan, thanks for the info, yes it is easy, but how's the synthetic oil working for your car? I just bought a 98 540i, should I use synthetic? I'm being told at the BMW dealership here in Las Vegas that they don't use synthetic on BMW's models earlier than 2000. I appreciate any and all input on this subject , thank you all.

omarm_2000 · Oct 11, 2005

Question on final step oil change.

This questions is for Gocooljapan. On step 6 so said that you re-set the oil inspection light, how do you do that and where do I do it?

UDM_Pinoy · Nov 28, 2006

resetting oil light

omarm_2000 said:
This questions is for Gocooljapan. On step 6 so said that you re-set the oil inspection light, how do you do that and where do I do it?

You need to buy one or if you know someone who has it borrow and reset oil light, it's simple.

M.Wong · Oct 13, 2005

omarm_2000:

This might help...

Link:
Service light reset

omarm_2000 · Oct 15, 2005

Reply to oil reset

Mr. Wong, thanks for the info. I have 2 questions,
first where do I get the tool to reset it?

Also some one else posted the following, please let me know if this might also be correct:

The ignition key must be in OFF position.
Press and hold trip odometer button in instrument cluster, and turn ignition key to ACCESSORY position.
Keep button pressed for approx. 5 more seconds until any of the following appear in the display: "Oil Service" or "Inspection", with "Reset" or "Re".
Press button again and hold for approx. 5 seconds until "Reset" pr "Re" flash.
While display is flashing, press button briefly to reset SII.
After display has shown new interval, the following will appear in display for approx. 2 seconds: "End SIA".

M.Wong · Oct 16, 2005

Keep in mind that it's usually helpful to post the year (model year and/or the build date on the door VIN plate) when you have questions. The link I posted shows two ways, depending on the year of your car.

Older E39s use the pin method under the hood. The link I posted also has a link to the Peake Research web site for an example of the reset tool:
http://www.peakeresearch.com

My E38 uses this pin method. However, I don't use a reset tool like the one from Peake Research. I use a wire as shown in this link:
Oil service light reset

(If your E39 is newer, the other method on the dash is what you need to do.)

Lord Bodak · Feb 1, 2006

ketchup said:
I don't know if you covered this, but don't forget to fill the oil filter canister with new oil too!

Bringing an old post back up to the top I know, but I have seen this mentioned occasionally. Is this something you must do, should do, or just might want to do?

M.Wong · Feb 3, 2006

Lord Bodak said:
Bringing an old post back up to the top I know, but I have seen this mentioned occasionally. Is this something you must do, should do, or just might want to do?

Personally, I don't do it... but many say you should.

BMW1983 · Feb 5, 2006

I know this is a dumb question and I'm sorry for asking it but I don't have my car with me because its in the shop til next week. What does the pin configuration look like on a 98 540 i e39? Is it round and I have to buy the adapter that comes with the peake reset tool or is it the kind where I don't have to buy the adapter. The rectangular connection? The only reason I ask is cuz i think I saw it today when I was cleaning up under the hood and it was round but the peakeresearch website says that 97-2000 uses the rectungular connection. Thanks.

aazzara · Feb 5, 2006

Thanks for the info. Is there a dipstick on these cars to check the oil level in the engine? I just bought a used 1997 528 i and I could not find the dipstick. I bought it at an auction, so I was wondering if someone swiped it during the inspection.

M.Wong · Feb 6, 2006

BMW1983 said:
What does the pin configuration look like on a 98 540i e39?

It should look the same as in my picture.

aazzara said:
Is there a dipstick on these cars to check the oil level in the engine? 1997 528i

Have you no owner's manual? This one is similar: Manual from BMWTips.com.

Yes, it should be red. Left of center of picture for the V8, right of center near the fire wall for the I6. If it's missing, you should get a check engine or service engine soon light as it will allow excess air into the system.

(Second photo from e-bay)

psychop · Feb 9, 2006

BMW1983 said:
I know this is a dumb question and I'm sorry for asking it but I don't have my car with me because its in the shop til next week. What does the pin configuration look like on a 98 540 i e39? Is it round and I have to buy the adapter that comes with the peake reset tool or is it the kind where I don't have to buy the adapter. The rectangular connection? The only reason I ask is cuz i think I saw it today when I was cleaning up under the hood and it was round but the peakeresearch website says that 97-2000 uses the rectungular connection. Thanks.

For the 1998 no need for the tool; piece of wire will do just fine

jimmerbimmer · Feb 22, 2006

Oil Change

You don't have to jack the car up to drain. Just turn the wheels all the way to the right side. It is actually hard to find the plug. It's on the right. Behind right wheel. I don't have a picture, but it would help.

The hard part is resetting the idiot lights. You have to short out 2 jumpers on the diag. I also don't have that detail right now but might post it later...

darrendrake · Apr 5, 2006

I have a 2000 528i and attempted the reset of the service interval (green lights) indicator. I used the paper clip approach (looped both ends a little) and placed one end in position 7 and one in position 19 (look closely, they ARE numbered). After setting the paper clip in place, turn key in ignition to the 2nd position (DO NOT START) and then get out of the driver's seat and walk back around to the paper clip and remove. The turning of the key and the walk may take a total of 10 seconds. After pulling the pin out, check the dash- the lights will all be green. Secret is having dashboard lights on while SIMULTANEOUSLY removing pin.

Newbie528 · Oct 9, 2008

If its that Simple I can have my wife pull OUT the paper clip when I say "GO". :rofl:

truelies · May 20, 2006

jimmerbimmer said:
You don't have to jack the car up to drain. Just turn the wheels all the way to the right side. It is actually hard to find the plug. It's on the right. Behind right wheel. I don't have a picture, but it would help.

The hard part is resetting the idiot lights. You have to short out 2 jumpers on the diag. I also don't have that detail right now but might post it later...

I am difficult to find a jack or a ramp to do oil change. Do you mean we even don't need to jack the car up? I only have a jack with my bmw.

d101 · Jun 30, 2006

inspection light reset

can any one tell me how to reset the inspection lights on my 1982 528i thank u my e_mail is jamesburns45@hotmail.com

M.Wong · Jul 2, 2006

truelies said:
I am difficult to find a jack or a ramp to do oil change. Do you mean we even don't need to jack the car up? I only have a jack with my bmw.

Don't use the emergency jack in the trunk, they are quite unstable. If you have no access to a floor jack and jack stands, or ramps, and you can't get to the plug, you might drive half way on the sidewalk (and half on the street) or onto a couple of very solid 2x10 planks.

I'd buy a floor jack and jack stands (or ramps, but I prefer having the jack/stands) before buying a top sider oil remover.

But on the 6 cylinder, I think you can do an oil change without lifting the car. (The V8 needs a little more room to access the plug.)

M.Wong · Jul 2, 2006

d101 said:
can any one tell me how to reset the inspection lights on my 1982 528i thank u my e_mail is jamesburns45@hotmail.com

This is from an E30 site, but I am pretty sure your car would be the same as the "pre 1987 connector" section:
Service light reset

(photo from bmwE30.net)

(photo from my 2000 E38, which looked like my 1987 E30 connector)

superghost · Jul 10, 2006

Paperclip reset

Just wanted to let everyone know that the reset service with paperclip did not work for me, not sure if it was the paperclip itself or something else, but I used a 1 inch long 12 gauge wire and it worked perfectly after that.

Now, my oil filter cap is badly stripped from previous owner and its a pain to take out. So I went searching for the part online and I can't seem to find it. Does anyone know where I can find just the oil filter cap, other than the dealer?

Tony · Jul 25, 2006

ketchup said:
I don't know if you covered this, but don't forget to fill the oil filter canister with new oil too!

Hi Ketchup.:thumbup:

ptabaco · Jul 26, 2006

Oil Filter Housing Cover

Pelican parts

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE39/POR_BE39_ENGoil_pg1.htm#item1

ProRail · Aug 6, 2006

luvdriven540i said:
GoKoolJapan, thanks for the info, yes it is easy, but how's the synthetic oil working for your car? I just bought a 98 540i, should I use synthetic? I'm being told at the BMW dealership here in Las Vegas that they don't use synthetic on BMW's models earlier than 2000. I appreciate any and all input on this subject , thank you all.

My 99 uses synthetic. The oil change indicator is predicated on using synthetic, since it calls for a change at 12-15K. Natural oil would not last that long.

gtx510 · Aug 7, 2006

For those who don't have or can't find metric tools.

17mm = 11/16"
36mm = 1-716"

Bav Auto and Mini Mania sell a (36mm) oil filter cap socket for under $20.

It's not really that good to run your oil past 10k, even with synthetics.
The purdent thing to do it change you oil at the 7-8k mark and not reset the lights.

(German) Castrol 0W30 from Autozone is the best oil for the money, $5.50/qt.
It's better than BMW Hi-Po 5W30 and M1 0W40. It's almost a xW40 and about as thick as M1 0W40. And it's LL-01 approved.

If you want a thicker xW40/LL-98 oil, I'd rec'd Motul, Amsoil, Liqui-moly, or Elf. You can get them on the net for about $7/qt.
Redline 5W40 would work well but I don't think it's LL-98, but that really doesn't matter.

MBCisme123 · Aug 28, 2006

I want to start changing my own oil so i can afford to put synthetic oil in. I haven't been been asking the guys at the oil change place to put in the synthetic even though they recommend it for a bimmer.(Because of the Cost)
Is there anything i should worry about when switching over the oils? Since the car has been used to running of regular will everythiing be cool, or i do i need to do a flush or cleaning of some sort?
Thanks
Matt

jvcajita · May 15, 2007

Do an engine flush first. The transition of the synthetic oil will be quite welcomed. What's ur OCI (oil change interval)? Also do you do more of surface street or freeway driving?

DIY - 528i OIL Change (E39) 6 cyl

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