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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-25-2015, 03:59 PM
boostedwolfie boostedwolfie is offline
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ID:	505972 Coming from firewall under driver micro filter
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2015, 04:12 PM
bmwdlm bmwdlm is offline
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Throttle assembly??? What does the other end go to. That might give you a clue. :-)
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2015, 05:07 PM
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Zerodynamic Zerodynamic is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 540i6
Have you tried RealOEM? looks electrical to me, no?
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Last edited by Zerodynamic; 04-25-2015 at 05:08 PM.
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  #4  
Old 04-25-2015, 05:46 PM
boostedwolfie boostedwolfie is offline
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I figured it out. There are two vaccum lines that connect to the rear manifold plate/ccv, this is what the one on the driverside looks like without the little rubber elbow (that actually plugs into the plate) attached to it.

Saw the elbow sitting in the garage 15ft from where im working on my car and said "oh...whoops!". Must of gotten violently ejected from the engine bay while i was working on the son of a bish water manifold.


Awhile ago, someone suggested removing the water manifold instead of the water pump whenever you need to remove the water pipes (for knock sensors or valley pan etc). This is my second time reinstalling everything down to the last plug, only to have the water manifold leak on me, upon filling her back up with coolant. I can honestly say without a doubt, do not EVER mothereffing touch the water manifold!!!! NOT ONLY will it undoubtedly leak in you after reinstalling correctly, it is even more of a pain in the assholes to take it off than the waterpump.

THERE.
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Last edited by boostedwolfie; 04-25-2015 at 05:53 PM.
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  #5  
Old 04-25-2015, 08:28 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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So that others may follow in your footsteps, and benefit from your knowledge, please take a look at this thread, and, if that particular vacuum line isn't described with diagrams and pictures, please add it so the next person benefits...
- How to locate all the vacuum hoses in the E39 engine bay (1)
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #6  
Old 04-26-2015, 07:53 AM
boostedwolfie boostedwolfie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
So that others may follow in your footsteps, and benefit from your knowledge, please take a look at this thread, and, if that particular vacuum line isn't described with diagrams and pictures, please add it so the next person benefits...
- How to locate all the vacuum hoses in the E39 engine bay (1)

I dont really have access to paint or anything, i could take a few pictures of the 90 degree rubber elbow that attaches to the hose. This is for a 09/99 (2000) 540.

Where is that vaccum box located?
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  #7  
Old 04-26-2015, 11:56 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Originally Posted by boostedwolfie View Post
I dont really have access to paint or anything
There is a free easy-to-use drawing program on all the major platforms:
1. Windows (e.g., Paint.NET is my favorite, but MS Paint is there by default)
2. Macintosh (e.g., Preview is there by default)
3. Linux (e.g., Kolourpaint is my favorite)
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #8  
Old 04-26-2015, 04:16 PM
boostedwolfie boostedwolfie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
There is a free easy-to-use drawing program on all the major platforms:
1. Windows (e.g., Paint.NET is my favorite, but MS Paint is there by default)
2. Macintosh (e.g., Preview is there by default)
3. Linux (e.g., Kolourpaint is my favorite)

I dont have a computer.
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  #9  
Old 04-26-2015, 04:48 PM
Steve535 Steve535 is offline
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Damn, I removed the Water Manifold a couple of days ago :/ Have not reassembled it yet as still busy cleaning around that area. Question, did you use some gasket tack on the new gasket? Also i'd dab some Loc-tite on those nuts as when i removed them they were not on very tight at all, can't seem to find a torque spec for them either!!
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  #10  
Old 04-26-2015, 09:20 PM
boostedwolfie boostedwolfie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve535 View Post
Damn, I removed the Water Manifold a couple of days ago :/ Have not reassembled it yet as still busy cleaning around that area. Question, did you use some gasket tack on the new gasket? Also i'd dab some Loc-tite on those nuts as when i removed them they were not on very tight at all, can't seem to find a torque spec for them either!!

No, just use new oe gaskets and be sure to use a razor on BOTH mating surfaces. As far the bolts, i lost a couple, so i looked on realoem and they are just m6x30. Went to lowes and picked up 8 of them. When youre tightening, do so evenly between both sides, you should be able to tell when they are snug. I did this work wrenching from on top of my engine pretty much the whole time, best vantage point, need to be able to see back there. Locktite is never not a good idea!

If you arent sure About tightening, dont go all the way, you can pour water in expansion tank until it no longer drips, this can be done with a fully assembled engine, just remove rear vaccum lines and climb in there, being careful where you step but most of it can take a major beating. And tighten until it no longer drips.

Remember to use a razor on the manifold AND the block. Make sure you get the block side good.

Bolts are probably 6ft/lb def not more than 8
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Last edited by boostedwolfie; 04-26-2015 at 09:26 PM.
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  #11  
Old 04-26-2015, 10:19 PM
Steve535 Steve535 is offline
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Ok I was going to sand both sides with 2000 grit sandpaper but I'll use a razor blade instead
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  #12  
Old 04-27-2015, 02:05 PM
Steve535 Steve535 is offline
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Also while your here is it ok to apply a little heat to some of the hoses when reconnecting? I broke my pump sucking jet when removing the two hoses connected to it, they just wouldn't come off.
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  #13  
Old 04-27-2015, 02:18 PM
boostedwolfie boostedwolfie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve535 View Post
Also while your here is it ok to apply a little heat to some of the hoses when reconnecting? I broke my pump sucking jet when removing the two hoses connected to it, they just wouldn't come off.

Funny you mention that, i was almost finished with some engine work, went to plug the jet jump in the manifold and it broke of course. Had silicone, electrical tape, and an extra set of hands so all is well.

As fas as heating goes im not sure, i wouldnt use a heat gun or anything more than a hair dryer. Probably would be better off just spraying wd40 and prying with screwdriver. I never removed any of the hoses that are connected to the jet pump, no need for what i was doing. If removing to install onto new pump, new pump should come with any hoses youre having serious trouble with.

If you're talking about the heater hoses connected to the water manifold, just pull, REALLY hard
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Last edited by boostedwolfie; 04-27-2015 at 02:19 PM.
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