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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
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  #1  
Old 04-27-2014, 11:41 AM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Broken Rear Spring

So I put my 2007 w/83k miles up in the air today because I had this hunch my driver side rear spring was broken due a slightly lower ride height. Sure enough, broken bottom coil.

So--Turner sells some rear springs for $200/pr, not sure if they are the "Lesforjos" brand or what. But--should I replace the fronts as well even if they are not broken? I'm leaning toward also throwing in some Bilstein B4 shocks as well, along with all new hardware and rubber bits.

Anyone have broken FRONT springs? How do the Lesforjos ride?
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  #2  
Old 04-27-2014, 04:32 PM
Fast Lane Fast Lane is offline
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I put the Lesjofors on the rear of my 2004 X3 last August and I've been completely happy. The ride was firm on the original BMW springs and firm on the Lesjofors. The diameter of the BMW spring coil itself is about 1/2" at the center of the spring and tapers to about 3/8" at the "pigtails" at both ends. The thinner end part is what breaks. The coils on the Lesjofors were about 1/2" dia from end to end. You would expect that to make them stiffer but I haven't noticed it.

What you do to your front is up to you but if the springs are intact and the shocks aren't leaking what's not to like?
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  #3  
Old 04-27-2014, 04:46 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Yeah I did a visual and the stock front springs look OK. I ordered the replacement rears from Turner, and I'll probably couple them with some Bilstein B4s. I'll post info on the springs that show up from Turner.
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  #4  
Old 04-28-2014, 10:36 AM
al_macaroni al_macaroni is online now
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I discovered this ugliness last week when rotating my tires at 97k. Both rear springs were broken and the drivers side lost more than the pigtail.
I had a suspicion that I had a broken spring- last week is sounded like the rear quarter got hit with a line drive while driving down the highway. I bet that was one of them breaking.

I have the Lesforjos and will be installing them this weekend. I will provide some feedback after I have some miles on them.
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  #5  
Old 04-28-2014, 04:14 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Wow yours is worse than mine. I order the rear springs Turner sells, along with some Bilstein B4s, Turner RTAB limiter kit (may or may not install in X3) and some M3 RTAB bushings. Thing is, this broken spring jazz is a safety issue. So, this is now $2400 in repairs I've made on this car since October last year. 2007, 83k miles.
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  #6  
Old 05-03-2014, 09:41 PM
VenkatV VenkatV is offline
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Misery loves company. I broke my driver rear spring due to load in the past 2 days. Will remove wheel to examine damage closely tomorrow.
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  #7  
Old 05-05-2014, 10:12 AM
VenkatV VenkatV is offline
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Should we replace both rears even if one broke?

Would it result in uneven stance/cornering when I replace driver rear with lesjofors and passenger rear is still Factory spring?
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  #8  
Old 05-05-2014, 01:25 PM
al_macaroni al_macaroni is online now
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Technically, you should probably replace in pairs.

If you are taking it to a shop to have the springs replaced, have them do both. It is probably just a matter of time until the other one goes.

I just installed a pair the Lesjofors this past weekend. As someone noted on one of the other posts, the Lesjofors spring does look slightly different than the OEM BMW spring. The metal looks thicker and the coil is tighter at the top of the spring. I'm saying the top of the spring because the rubber pads only fit properly on one end of the Lesjofors spring. The top pad only fits on one side and the bottom pad only fits on the other.

They probably have the same spring rate, but they do look a bit different. I'm hoping the different look will help them last longer.

It was a bit of a PITA to do the install myself. I think it would have been difficult to remove the springs if they were not broken. If you go the DIY route, it might be difficult removing the intact spring. In that case, just wait for the other one to break, then replace it.
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  #9  
Old 05-05-2014, 02:09 PM
VenkatV VenkatV is offline
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Thank you. Two questions.
  • Based on your post, it implies it is ok to drive around with a broken rear spring? Mine is making occasional sound when roads are rough etc.
  • Did you replace top and bottom hats or reused existing ones? Any other spring related items to be replaced? I will buy parts and get a shop to do the install.
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  #10  
Old 05-05-2014, 04:31 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al_macaroni View Post
Technically, you should probably replace in pairs.

If you are taking it to a shop to have the springs replaced, have them do both. It is probably just a matter of time until the other one goes.

I just installed a pair the Lesjofors this past weekend. As someone noted on one of the other posts, the Lesjofors spring does look slightly different than the OEM BMW spring. The metal looks thicker and the coil is tighter at the top of the spring. I'm saying the top of the spring because the rubber pads only fit properly on one end of the Lesjofors spring. The top pad only fits on one side and the bottom pad only fits on the other.

They probably have the same spring rate, but they do look a bit different. I'm hoping the different look will help them last longer.

It was a bit of a PITA to do the install myself. I think it would have been difficult to remove the springs if they were not broken. If you go the DIY route, it might be difficult removing the intact spring. In that case, just wait for the other one to break, then replace it.
So are you saying that you were ultimately able to fit the rubber pads, just only in the correct location (top/bottom)?

Also, I'm considering having my shop do this--while it seems easy in theory, I can see where pulling out the old unbroken spring could be difficult.

In your experience was it more difficult getting the new ones in?
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  #11  
Old 05-05-2014, 05:28 PM
al_macaroni al_macaroni is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSUEng View Post
So are you saying that you were ultimately able to fit the rubber pads, just only in the correct location (top/bottom)?

Also, I'm considering having my shop do this--while it seems easy in theory, I can see where pulling out the old unbroken spring could be difficult.

In your experience was it more difficult getting the new ones in?
I was able to fit both top and bottom new pads on the installation of the new spring. To be more clear, the top pad only fits on one side of the spring and the bottom pad only fits on the other side of the spring. So, the way to determine which side of the spring is the top, is by the side the top pad fits on.

For me, it was difficult getting the new springs on the car. I used multiple e46 DIYs and the e46 Bentley manual for rear spring replacement.

Also look at Fast Lane's comment on #12
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=8256877

For me, the driver's side was the easier of the two. On the suspension, I only disconnected the bottom shock bolt. (I also disconnected the brake line bracket bolt.)

The passenger side was more difficult. In addition to unbolting the shock, and the brake line bracket bolt, I also unbolted the headlight leveling sensor, and the two 13mm external torx bolts holding the rear sway bar. I needed the extra 1/2 inch gained by loosening the sway bar. It bought me enough space to struggle to get the spring in. (I had to take the spare tire carrier bolts out to move the spare tire carrier aside, so I could get to the one rear sway bar mounting bolt.)

My spring compressor would not fit over the new springs. So, unfortunately that was not an option for me.

To get the springs in, I put the top spring pad on the car, then from the back of the car, angled the top of the spring onto the top mounting pad while it was on the car. Then, I sprayed WD-40 in the bottom spring bucket. I did this to help the bottom rubber pad slide. Next, I walked the bottom of the spring (bottom rubber pad on the spring) into the bucket - going toward the front of the car. I used a 25 inch Craftsman screwdriver handle crow bar under the bottom rubber pad and spring to lift/compress the spring (up) and walk it into position.

It isn't the most beautiful DIY, but I was able to get the springs in with the tools that I had.

The Bentley e46 manual and Fast Lane mentioned unbolting the axle at the rear differential. I did not do this. It might have made things easier if I had.

I also had the rear of the car on jack stands and both wheels off while I performed the work.

It took me about 5 hours. About 2 of which were spent trying to get my spring compressor to work, figure out a way to compress the springs with ratchet straps and how to find a way to get more space to work with.

Would I do it again myself, yes. But it took more brute force than I had expected.
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Last edited by al_macaroni; 05-05-2014 at 05:37 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2014, 05:34 PM
al_macaroni al_macaroni is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VenkatV View Post
Thank you. Two questions.
  • Based on your post, it implies it is ok to drive around with a broken rear spring? Mine is making occasional sound when roads are rough etc.
  • Did you replace top and bottom hats or reused existing ones? Any other spring related items to be replaced? I will buy parts and get a shop to do the install.
I replaced both the top and bottom hat on both sides. I got all 4 OEM BMW hats for the rear for $34.

One of my bottom hats was punctured by the broken spring. The top hats looked good, but for $34 for all 4, I replaced top and bottom on both sides of the car.

I probably drove at least 1 month, maybe 2 on the broken springs. I replaced them about a week and a half after I was able to confirm they were broken.
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1988 Grand Wagoneer | Burgundy | Ghost Flames | 360 ci | Holley carb

BMW CCA #422951

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  #13  
Old 05-06-2014, 12:01 PM
VenkatV VenkatV is offline
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Thank al_macaroni. My spring cracked but did not break yet. I will replace the rears as a pair with top and bottom hats.
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  #14  
Old 05-06-2014, 04:11 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al_macaroni View Post
I was able to fit both top and bottom new pads on the installation of the new spring. To be more clear, the top pad only fits on one side of the spring and the bottom pad only fits on the other side of the spring. So, the way to determine which side of the spring is the top, is by the side the top pad fits on.

For me, it was difficult getting the new springs on the car. I used multiple e46 DIYs and the e46 Bentley manual for rear spring replacement.

Also look at Fast Lane's comment on #12
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=8256877

For me, the driver's side was the easier of the two. On the suspension, I only disconnected the bottom shock bolt. (I also disconnected the brake line bracket bolt.)

The passenger side was more difficult. In addition to unbolting the shock, and the brake line bracket bolt, I also unbolted the headlight leveling sensor, and the two 13mm external torx bolts holding the rear sway bar. I needed the extra 1/2 inch gained by loosening the sway bar. It bought me enough space to struggle to get the spring in. (I had to take the spare tire carrier bolts out to move the spare tire carrier aside, so I could get to the one rear sway bar mounting bolt.)

My spring compressor would not fit over the new springs. So, unfortunately that was not an option for me.

To get the springs in, I put the top spring pad on the car, then from the back of the car, angled the top of the spring onto the top mounting pad while it was on the car. Then, I sprayed WD-40 in the bottom spring bucket. I did this to help the bottom rubber pad slide. Next, I walked the bottom of the spring (bottom rubber pad on the spring) into the bucket - going toward the front of the car. I used a 25 inch Craftsman screwdriver handle crow bar under the bottom rubber pad and spring to lift/compress the spring (up) and walk it into position.

It isn't the most beautiful DIY, but I was able to get the springs in with the tools that I had.

The Bentley e46 manual and Fast Lane mentioned unbolting the axle at the rear differential. I did not do this. It might have made things easier if I had.

I also had the rear of the car on jack stands and both wheels off while I performed the work.

It took me about 5 hours. About 2 of which were spent trying to get my spring compressor to work, figure out a way to compress the springs with ratchet straps and how to find a way to get more space to work with.

Would I do it again myself, yes. But it took more brute force than I had expected.
Yeah I have the prybars, tools to disconnect the sway bar links, etc. I just cringe at the work knowing my shop can do the job in half the time. My Turner replacements are on the way. I'm curious which brand I receive....
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  #15  
Old 05-06-2014, 05:25 PM
VenkatV VenkatV is offline
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I purchased 2 rear springs (lesjofors), 2 rear bottom pads, 2 rear upper shims from FCP euro, came out to 223.30 shipped.

Big shout out to the guys at FCP Euro. I purchased 3 times earlier and always 100% satisfied. Top notch prices, shipping and support.

I am going to have a local shop do it, got quoted 240 for labor with tax. Sounds reasonable?
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  #16  
Old 05-07-2014, 04:47 AM
al_macaroni al_macaroni is online now
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Sounds like a good deal.
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  #17  
Old 05-08-2014, 04:49 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Parts showed up today. Springs were packaged in a box with "Hudson Premium Parts" marking on them. Spring finish is black, look pretty good. But I can't find any info on this brand.
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  #18  
Old 05-09-2014, 04:55 AM
timarnold timarnold is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VenkatV View Post
I purchased 2 rear springs (lesjofors), 2 rear bottom pads, 2 rear upper shims from FCP euro, came out to 223.30 shipped.

Big shout out to the guys at FCP Euro. I purchased 3 times earlier and always 100% satisfied. Top notch prices, shipping and support.

I am going to have a local shop do it, got quoted 240 for labor with tax. Sounds reasonable?
Seems kind of high. I did this job night before last and had both sides finished in about 20 mins. I just unbolted the shock from the lower wishbone & levered it down with a 4' length of pipe until I could pull the old spring out & put the new spring in. I don't have Xenon lights so I didn't need to disconnect the level sensor, but that only takes about 2 minutes.
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  #19  
Old 05-09-2014, 05:07 AM
codog2 codog2 is offline
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Just did mine (05-100k miles). Dealer wanted 800 / did at indie for 600 + $140 for alignment

Wasn't sure I needed the alignment but the indie sold me on different ride height with new springs. Plus my tires only have 6k miles on them


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  #20  
Old 05-09-2014, 12:24 PM
VenkatV VenkatV is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timarnold View Post
Seems kind of high. I did this job night before last and had both sides finished in about 20 mins. I just unbolted the shock from the lower wishbone & levered it down with a 4' length of pipe until I could pull the old spring out & put the new spring in. I don't have Xenon lights so I didn't need to disconnect the level sensor, but that only takes about 2 minutes.
Thanks Tim. Any special tools needed other than spring compressor? I can loan spring compressor from Pepboys and try do it myself if it that straightforward. I have Adaptive Xenons, so another extra step.
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  #21  
Old 05-10-2014, 05:58 AM
timarnold timarnold is offline
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I actually did not compress the spring. The rear springs are way easier than the front. I was able to wedge a length of pipe between the brake caliper and the lower control arm and force the lower control arm down enough to remove the old and install the new spring and pads. It would be easier with an assistand but it can be done solo.
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Old 06-02-2014, 05:14 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Can anyone post a link to the rear cargo area trim removal instructions? I had it at one point, now I've lost it; searching is futile.....

Car is going to the indy shop Friday to have the B4s and Turner replacement springs installed on the rear. I am going to disassemble the interior to save some labor charges.
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  #23  
Old 06-03-2014, 06:13 AM
al_macaroni al_macaroni is online now
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Check out post # 47

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=457330&page=2
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:49 PM
PSUEng PSUEng is offline
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Yeah so I dug into this tonight and I'm stuck on the removal of the window surround. It appears that the lower black trim at the entrance to the cargo area needs to come out to allow the rear most side trim to come off, then, finally, allowing the window trim to come off. I got the seat belt cover off no problem but man, this is the most complicated trim disassembly I've seen in my life....

And that TIS instruction isn't much help beyond "remove this", "remove that".
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:30 PM
alichak alichak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VenkatV View Post
Thanks Tim. Any special tools needed other than spring compressor? I can loan spring compressor from Pepboys and try do it myself if it that straightforward. I have Adaptive Xenons, so another extra step.
Have you done the job yet? I figured out today that my rear spring is broken!! need help!
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