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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-21-2016, 07:33 AM
corban corban is offline
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E36 1995 convertible over heating

Hello all
Long story short my beautiful 1995 BMW 325i convertible over heating after coolant change .
I got this beauty from an old guy , with 98k beautiful shape , car sat for 7 month due to a no start , problem fixed with the help of one of the members here ( Big thanks to BMR_LVR )
NO start issue turn to be a bad CPS, I replaced it car fired right up , after that I took the car around the house , checked every thing , then on the high way easy doing 55mph , watching every thing , temp etc , the ride was like 40 minutes , no problems at all , got home ,car idling smooth in my drive way for like 5 minutes , all the sudden I see coolant under it bad , turned it off , popped the hood open , to find upper radiator hose snapped at the radiator neck , so I ordered , new one BEHER , new fan clutch BEHER as well , drained all old coolant out , from block also , fallowed the bleeding procedure ( car front on ramps ), filled it up, started it for like 20 minutes idling , temperature gage sharp at 12 o'clock, so time for a ride , as I started driving I saw my temperature gauge going up to the second white mark , back home , turned it off , waited to cool , then did the bleeding procedure again , I noticed the heat not blowing hot air when on hot , so no matter how many time I bleed it , can't manage to get the heat to blow hot air , end up changing the thermostat , with no luck , I did the block test to see if any blow by gases in the cooling system , nothing , no ill signs , what went wrong ? I don't see the fan engaging at all , I can stop it with a newspaper , auxiliary fan not running when car temperature pass the middle either , only runs when I put the AC , I am in total shock what went wrong .
Thanks
M-A

Last edited by corban; 04-21-2016 at 01:19 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-21-2016, 10:41 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Sad to say, you still have bleeding of the system to do. Turn the heater on full hot and continue bleeding until you get full heat out of the heater. Good job on testing for gasses in the system. With a new fan clutch you should be getting a shredded newspaper, not a stopped fan. I don't understand that part.
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  #3  
Old 04-21-2016, 01:29 PM
corban corban is offline
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Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Sad to say, you still have bleeding of the system to do. Turn the heater on full hot and continue bleeding until you get full heat out of the heater. Good job on testing for gasses in the system. With a new fan clutch you should be getting a shredded newspaper, not a stopped fan. I don't understand that part.
I am puzzled , no luck yet , still overheating and no hot air out of the vents either , I reached to the three hoses at the heat control valve , all three not getting hot at all , what I am missing ?
thermostat working per Bently manuals , upper hose gets hot and lower little warm .
Is it air still trapped ?
OEM thermostat and housing new
water pump like 8k ago in 2012 ( got receipt from previous work)
New OEM radiator
new OEM fan clutch
new OEM exception tank
fresh BMW coolant

Last edited by corban; 04-23-2016 at 05:46 PM.
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  #4  
Old 04-21-2016, 01:35 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Yes, it's air still trapped, and it sounds like the three-way valve isn't opening or is clogged. Not unheard of. You definitely have air still trapped. Until you get heat in the car, you aren't done.
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BMW-CCA #441426 Which is worse, ignorance or apathy? I don't know, and I don't care!

1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira"; 1985 635CSi "Katja"; 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"; 1987 325is "Odette"

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  #5  
Old 04-21-2016, 03:15 PM
corban corban is offline
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Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Yes, it's air still trapped, and it sounds like the three-way valve isn't opening or is clogged. Not unheard of. You definitely have air still trapped. Until you get heat in the car, you aren't done.
How to get that air out though?
I tried every trick in the book ,no luck
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  #6  
Old 04-21-2016, 04:16 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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All I can tell you is keep trying. It sometimes takes many tries to finally get it air-free. Those hoses on the heater three-way valve is probably your trouble spot. Until you get heat through there, you'll never get the heater core bled.
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guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
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BMW-CCA #441426 Which is worse, ignorance or apathy? I don't know, and I don't care!

1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira"; 1985 635CSi "Katja"; 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"; 1987 325is "Odette"


Last edited by hornhospital; 04-21-2016 at 04:17 PM.
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  #7  
Old 04-21-2016, 06:54 PM
corban corban is offline
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I did what out lined below , it did help getting some warm to milled hot air thru the vents , unbelievable how much air still coming , I can hear the bottom hose and the upper hose growling ,collapse then expand, like a heart beating , I did it like 3 times until it got dark and couldn't see , tomorrow another day ,oh the aux fan ran this time , the 3 hoses at the valve defiantly got little hotter , the fan clutch still not engaging though , I hope it is not defected ,so Iam optimistic about tomorrow , I can't believe how much air trapped in there , even though I fallowed the bleeding procedure religiously .








Late model BMW bleeder screw on expansion tank

Set the heater controls to full warm settings and start the engine.

Leave the bleeder screw open while the engine is running (with the reservoir cap closed). Bring the engine speed up to about 1500 rpm and give it a bit more throttle intermittently. If the temp goes up past 3/4 on the gauge, shut it off and leave the bleeder open (assuming air and maybe a bit of coolant are coming out).

When the steam and pressure stop coming out, carefully open the reservoir cap just to the point where the remaining pressure (if any) releases. If coolant comes out of the overflow tube or the cap, re-tighten it. If no coolant comes out, go ahead and open the reservoir and add fluid as required.

Install the cap and start the engine again. Keep repeating this process until coolant is continuous at the bleeder and the engine temp stays constant.

It can also help if you pull the plug on the thermostatic fan switch (on the side of the radiator) and jumper the power wire to the high-speed wire, to turn the fan on. This will help prevent the system from overheating just from revving the engine with no airflow over the radiator.

Once you think you have the system fully bled, grab your tool for the bleeder screw and a jug of coolant and go for a short ride. If the temperature goes past the normal operating temperature on the gauge, stop and turn the engine off and open the screw; there will likely be more air. Proceed as outlined above; add coolant as required. This should take care of the final bleeding.

Tip: doing the above while safely parked in an uphill position (as if the front of the vehicle were up on the ramps) can help eliminate trapped air.

As always, if you have any questions about any of the procedures outlined in this article, don't hesitate to give us a call at 800-535-2002.

Last edited by corban; 04-21-2016 at 07:00 PM.
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  #8  
Old 04-22-2016, 10:50 AM
corban corban is offline
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been bleeding it for 5 hours , no luck , still over heat when I take it for a drive and no hot air in cabin just warm, it can idel for 5 hours no over heating ,when I start driving it it over heats .
Driving me nuts .
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  #9  
Old 04-22-2016, 02:25 PM
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The bleeding procedure you're using is faulty because it never has you add coolant to replace the air vented. You do NOT need to run the engine or have it hot to bleed the system. Procedures that call for that are based on a bad assumption that the thermostat has to be open to bleed the system.
Here's the correct procedure. It's messy, but it works.

Set the heat controls to full heat. Heat control dial fully turned to the heat side, temperature on the temp control unit set to max for both driver and passenger side, fan set to max.

Turn the ignition ON, but DO NOT START THE ENGINE.

Remove the bleeder screw.

Remove the coolant reservoir cap.

SLOWLY add coolant into the reservoir at a rate that causes coolant to run out of the bleed screw opening, but don't overflow the coolant reservoir.

Keep adding coolant and overflowing it out of the bleed opening until no bubbles, not even tiny champagne size bubbles, are coming out of the bleed opening. Note that you'll see air coming out, then short periods of no bubbles, then no air. Keep going until there have been no air bubbles for some time.

Put the bleed screw back in and put the reservoir cap back on the reservoir.

Start the engine and monitor it while it comes up to temperature.

When the engine temp has stabilized with the temp gauge at the 12 o'clock position, take the car for a test drive while monitoring engine temp.

If all is good, shut the engine off, let it cool down, then adjust the coolant level in the reservoir to the correct level. You may have to remove some coolant.
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  #10  
Old 04-23-2016, 06:19 AM
corban corban is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
The bleeding procedure you're using is faulty because it never has you add coolant to replace the air vented. You do NOT need to run the engine or have it hot to bleed the system. Procedures that call for that are based on a bad assumption that the thermostat has to be open to bleed the system.
Here's the correct procedure. It's messy, but it works.

Set the heat controls to full heat. Heat control dial fully turned to the heat side, temperature on the temp control unit set to max for both driver and passenger side, fan set to max.

Turn the ignition ON, but DO NOT START THE ENGINE.

Remove the bleeder screw.

Remove the coolant reservoir cap.

SLOWLY add coolant into the reservoir at a rate that causes coolant to run out of the bleed screw opening, but don't overflow the coolant reservoir.

Keep adding coolant and overflowing it out of the bleed opening until no bubbles, not even tiny champagne size bubbles, are coming out of the bleed opening. Note that you'll see air coming out, then short periods of no bubbles, then no air. Keep going until there have been no air bubbles for some time.

Put the bleed screw back in and put the reservoir cap back on the reservoir.

Start the engine and monitor it while it comes up to temperature.

When the engine temp has stabilized with the temp gauge at the 12 o'clock position, take the car for a test drive while monitoring engine temp.

If all is good, shut the engine off, let it cool down, then adjust the coolant level in the reservoir to the correct level. You may have to remove some coolant.
Thank you for the info , I did this procedure religiously first time , car can idle all day with no over heating ,once I hit the road the temp start spiking , plus I am not getting no hot air in the cabin , I think my heat control valve obstructed ,even though it passed the test with multi meter. when I did the flush I noticed a lot of small rubber pieces came out of the system , , I am gonna pressure test the system to see if any leak some where causing an air leak to the system .

Last edited by corban; 04-23-2016 at 06:35 AM.
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  #11  
Old 04-23-2016, 12:38 PM
corban corban is offline
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I pressure tested the system at 15psi ( cold engine ), no leaks the needle didn't drop, after two hours dropped half psi .
dc_wright , I did the bleeding procedure u listed above , still the same problem , no heat to the cabin ,car still over heating,
I put a new OEM expansion tank cap from the dealer as well .
I noticed the upper radiator hose very hot to touch , the lower one stone cold , another weird thing half the radiator driver side hot to touch , the other half passenger side ice cold , known it is a brand new radiator BEHR , I think there is something some were obstructing the flow cycle , I am stumped ,
is it a bad heat control valve ?
is it the water pump that is less than 3 years old 10k on it ?
Oh one more thing I noticed there is a coolant tube that goes kinda from the back of the thermostat to the heater core is cold to milled warm , for that I am not getting any hot air .
About pulling my hair lol

Last edited by corban; 04-23-2016 at 02:13 PM.
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  #12  
Old 04-23-2016, 01:09 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Two things very suspicious.

#1: pump is 3 years old. Does it have a plastic or composite impeller? It could well be disconnected from the pump shaft or broken apart.

#2: The heater valve either isn't working (a multimeter only tells you if it gets voltage, not if it's actuating), or it's plugged up.
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guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
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buying a ratty example (of a BMW) is a parasitic relationship.(and you ain't the mosquito) 7pilot
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BMW-CCA #441426 Which is worse, ignorance or apathy? I don't know, and I don't care!

1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira"; 1985 635CSi "Katja"; 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"; 1987 325is "Odette"

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Old 04-23-2016, 02:11 PM
corban corban is offline
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[QUOTE=hornhospital;9641342]Two things very suspicious.

#1: pump is 3 years old. Does it have a plastic or composite impeller? It could well be disconnected from the pump shaft or broken apart.

#2: The heater valve either isn't working (a multimeter only tells you if it gets voltage, not if it's actuating), or it's plugged up.[/Q

Based on the maintenance records I have on hand
Water pump been replaced 7/19/12 at 87732 miles car now has 98k ,it states an OEM water pump $115.86

The HV I tested it with the 12 volt , I can hear booth sides clicking which indicates they are working , I agree with u on being clogged , BUT would that cause the car to over heat ?
My concern a blockage some where in the block .
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Old 04-23-2016, 03:29 PM
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If it's ok at idle but overheats when driving you've definitely got a flow restriction or deficiency. I'd check the thermostat first and then the water pump. If the thermostat is only opening partially you'll get the symptoms you describe. The mention that you got rubber pieces coming out makes me wonder if it wasn't really water pump impeller pieces.
Also with debris circulating around in your cooling system it may have clogged the heater control valve and there's no flow regardless of whether the valves are trying to open or not.
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Old 04-23-2016, 05:39 PM
corban corban is offline
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Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
If it's ok at idle but overheats when driving you've definitely got a flow restriction or deficiency. I'd check the thermostat first and then the water pump. If the thermostat is only opening partially you'll get the symptoms you describe. The mention that you got rubber pieces coming out makes me wonder if it wasn't really water pump impeller pieces.
Also with debris circulating around in your cooling system it may have clogged the heater control valve and there's no flow regardless of whether the valves are trying to open or not.
\
OEM Thermostat was the first thing I changed .
The only thing I didn't touch yet is the water pump .
would a clogged HV cause overheating ? that what I would like to know .
Is it possible all that happen at once ,I mean water pump fail and HV ?
Known car sat for 7 month in a bubble in the garage .
I am coming to a point to believe the water pump failed , as the tube that runs from the back of the thermostat to the heating coil cold .
Actually I am gathering my strength back after almost 3 days of bleeding the system , squeezing those fat radiator tubes , I could use a full body massage and bleeding my self after this
I just got it off the ramps , power washed the bottom and bay area from coolant splashes .
It is in the garage now on two layers of heavy plastic and couple old blankets , I might dive in that engine bay again tonight .
Thank you for your time and support .
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:07 PM
corban corban is offline
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I will let the photo tell the tale .
3 years old 10k miles , pity BMW .

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Old 04-23-2016, 09:11 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Wow... Time for a metal impeller!
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Old 04-23-2016, 09:19 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Yeah, I kinda figured that's what you'd find.
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guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
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buying a ratty example (of a BMW) is a parasitic relationship.(and you ain't the mosquito) 7pilot
Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 & New Member Intro Forum Mod/Bimmerfest Misplaced-Posting Tow Truck
BMW-CCA #441426 Which is worse, ignorance or apathy? I don't know, and I don't care!

1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira"; 1985 635CSi "Katja"; 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"; 1987 325is "Odette"

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Old 04-23-2016, 09:35 PM
corban corban is offline
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Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Yeah, I kinda figured that's what you'd find.
Yup u did , many thanks.
Just ordered a metal impeller pump , all new belts , water pump aluminum pulley , tension pulley , so basically , this beauty will rock and roll soon

Last edited by corban; 04-29-2016 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 07-11-2016, 12:29 AM
phillhustlz phillhustlz is offline
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What happened id love to know I have same problem and replaced everything even head job done
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Old 07-11-2016, 04:26 AM
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errr....the water pump broke....impeller completely detached....
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